Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2007 Honda CR-V Maintenance



  • archieyarchiey Posts: 7
    Not sure if it is a mandatory requirement or it is something new.
    When I got the CR-V from the dealer in Honolulu, the dealer made it a requirement that all regular maintenance shall be done by the dealer to keep the warranty valid. Otherwise, the warranty is void. In other words, I cannot even change the motor oil myself!!!!!! :confuse:
    Any input on this?
  • richk6richk6 Posts: 87
    On page 36 of my 2007 CRV factory warranty booklet:

    "The people at your Honda dealer are fully trained and equipped to efficiently perform scheduled maintenance on your 2007 Honda. However service at the dealer is NOT MANDATORY for continued warranty coverage. You can have scheduled maintenance done somewhere other than your Honda dealer, or you can do the maintenance yourself".

    I would say the factory requirements override the dealer requirements, if the dealer disagrees, complain to Honda America.
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    I suspect the dealer was speaking about a dealer service program of some kind. Whatever, he wasn't speaking (accurately anyway) about Honda's warranty, which does not require service by the dealer.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    Check out the tie-in sales provisions of the Magnuson-Moss Act too.
  • dewaltdakotadewaltdakota Posts: 364
    You didn't happen to buy a non-Hondacare extended warranty from them, did you?
  • Hi All,
    Just changed the timing belt on my CR-V and the spark plug wires as well. Noticed upon acceleration there is pinging using regular 87 octane gas. Noted red paint mark (? deg BTDC) on pulley as well as white TDC #1 mark on pulley. How does one adjust the rotation of the distributor to adjust ignition timing for my car (also what is the correct idle timing mark to line up with timing light (red or white mark?).

    Thanks in advance for any helpful info.
  • The manual says to use 5W-20 weight oil. I am planning on using Mobil 1 Synthetic oil. Would using 5W-30 be ok for the Engine, or should I use the recommended 5W-20 weight.

    What other brands of Synthetic Oil has anyone used on their 07 CRVs?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Use what the manual says. You can get a 5 quart jug of M1 at Walmart for 20 bux.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    What other brands of Synthetic Oil has anyone used on their 07 CRVs?

    Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, Valvoline Synpower, Quaker State Syntetics... and many others are not true syntehtic oils. They are hydrockracked conventional oils. Regard them as high purified converntional oils made from the same decomposed dynasaurus as the rest of the oils.

    Mobil1 EP, Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil are truly synthetic oils made from PAO IV basestock.

    Mobil 1 EP (as well as regular Mobil 1) is on sale at Advance Auto parts at $29.99 for 5 qts and a Mobil 1 filter.

    I have used orignal PAO IV Mobil 1 0W-20, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20, Quaker State QTorque 5W-20, Quaker Sate QPower 5W-20... conventional oils...

    Any oil will do if you change it regularly. I stick to the severe schedule, which for 2005 CR-V is 5,000 miles or every 6 months. I change the filter every time as well with Honda stock filter.
  • Don't waste your money on synthetic oils when any good namebrand 5W30 dyno oil with the latest SAE specs SJ or later will do when following the severe schedule of oil changes. I use to change oil every 2000 miles and filter every 4000 miles for the first 100000 miles maintenance schedule. The engine ran fine for over 200000 miles, and still gave 30+ miles per gallon.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Some of the "Synthetics" are cheaper than conventional oils. Take for example Pennzoil Platinum, it is not unusual to have it at PepBoys for $26 for a 6-pack, with a $15 rebate. And if one searches one can find another rebate form, directly from Shell (Pennzoil's parent company is Sopus, which is Shell) for another $15. So, in effect, one gets paid $4 to take the oil off their hands.

    This is how I ended up with a stock of 10 gallons of Quaker State QPower, 8 gallons of Quaker State QTorque, 10 gallons of Pennzoil Platinum, 5 gallons of Mobil 1 Extended Performance, and 2 gallons of Valvoline Synpower. At the end, I may have paid $5 for all this oil in the garage.

    Between 3 vehicles (CR-V, Escape, Prelude), a Motorcycle, Snow Thrower, Lawn Mower, Generator... I use quite a bit of oil. :cry:

    By the way, Quaker State is made by Sopus as well.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    I got a 5 qt. jug of 5w30 at Wal-Mart the other day (time for my 10k oil change :shades: ). I noticed they were promoting their store brand full synthetic for just under $15. Not bad. The store brand normal stuff was around $8 a jug.

    My chipper/shredder is fighting me so much I'm going to sell the @#$# thing and that's the last gas small engine I'm hopefully going to have to buy. I can rebuild an old Tecumseh carb in the dark now though!

    I bet you are finding those rebates at :)
  • is another good source on rebates.
  • sky23213sky23213 Posts: 296
    ...Snow Thrower, Lawn Mower...
    I do the same - a bottle of good oil is just enough for those, and you don't have to pay 3.99-4.99 per tiny bottle of "special lawnmower oil". And I'm sure my snowblower loves the Mobil 5-20.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    If you find some good deals on car accessories, please post them in Auto Parts Bargains and Coupons!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I bet you are finding those rebates at

    Yeap, and as well :blush:

    I tried rebuilding a carb on a 33 year old Craftsman snowthrower (Tecumseh engine) that was running somewhat. After the rebuild it does not run at all.

    I ended up buying an Ariens snowthrower with a Tecumseh engine. Hopefully Ariens lasts 30 years before it needs rebuilding.

    I have toyed with the idea of buying a replacement Honda engine for the Craftsman, but I have not come across a honda engine (GX160 mainly) that has a PTO shaft. Harbor Freight has Subaru Robins engines for $129 add in a 15% off one item coupon and you are golden. But, they don't have them with 1:2 PTO either. :confuse:
  • pfan12000pfan12000 Posts: 3
    My 1999 CR-V is throwing consistently P0131 CEL (pre-cat sensor voltage low). The O2 sensor is the nippondenso one which I had to splice in the old connector (4 wires).
    The engine runs fine after initial 2 min of early post start stumbling or flat spots. These are symptoms of lean stumble while cold. The engine has 192000 miles and has a new catalytic converteat 168000 miles along with new pre and post O2 sensors (both Nippondenso).

    I suspect the ethanol 10% fuel is not compatible with the older 1990's MTBE fuel amounts being metered in by the old ECU's mapping.

    Any suggestions as to why I am getting this code which when cleared always comes back withing a mile of driving.
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Posts: 146
    edited June 2010
    E10 won't be the issue, not at 10%. E10 was very common in the midwest in 1999.

    The issue wiht Ethanol at higher ratio is some fo the seals, and the size of the injectors and the maximum range of hte fuel maps.

    Your issue may be unrealted to the O2 sensors. I might take a look at other sensors that affect the fuel air ratio such as the MAP (manifold aboslute pressure), MAF (mass airflow sensor) or the IAT intake air temperature) sensor. Even the coolant temperature sensor could cause a fuel air ratio issue.

    There is also a device on some cars that control the idle airflow that sets the idle speed. These get dirty and can cause problems as well.

    I don't think 02 sensors are even used during cold air operation.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,964
    edited June 2010
    I have all kinds of trouble with Tecumseh mower engines. The stupid needle valve gets clogged up all the time no matter how careful I am with ther fuel, and the bowl gasket doesn't hold up as you remove it to clean the needle. I can about remove it blindfolded since my chipper/shredder always had the same issue.

    I have to use starter fluid to get the mower cranked.

    Good thing it belongs to my buddy.

    Get a Honda. ;)
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Posts: 146
    You're scaring me. I bought a lawnboy mower 4 years ago with a Tecumseh engine. It was right before the switch to Honda power units. I at least got a good price. It's worked just fine, no clogging or other issues. But I am careful to use non ethanol fuel, change the oil once a season only using SAE30 as recommended and most improtantly, I use stabilizer all the time, since a 5 gallon can of fuel lasts me a whole mowing season or more. I only put maybe 100-120 hours on the mower each season... which fits well with maintenance schedules.

    Tecumseh went out of business recently. So I've heard its' a good idea if you have a newer pwoer unit, to get all the spare parts you ever plan to need now. thee ris some aftermarket support of most maintenance items. Just in case, I picked up a couple air filters and drive belts. If I have a major failure, I'll just replace the mower. If I can get 5 or 6 more seasons out of it, I won't be totally disapointed. Then I can get a proper Honda mower that will last a good 20 years or more.
Sign In or Register to comment.