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Chevrolet Impala Climate Control/AC/Heater



  • I am having the exact same problem and the mechanic told me it was the drivers side temperature control motor. My heat does not work on the drivers side or the passengers side. I ran into the problem of asking for this part at the dealer, they started asking other questions then tried to get me to just let them fix my problem instead of my mechanic. I was looking into this actuator that you listed, have you heard of the motor part I referred too and is this actuator a part of this possibly??
  • Well, it's both of the blower motors that do not work. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. I also had asked a mechanic and his response was that there was a faulty computer relay. I did find that if i strat the vehicle slowly, the fan works, if I turn the key quickly, it will not. Since I have duel control, I heard that the Ford Vic vehicals also have the same issue. I check deeper into this. Tha nks for letting me know, I 'll check past postingss for the part number. Thanks again!!!!
  • Any ideas?
    When it stopped, it didn't make any funny noises.
    So... I don't believe the motor, bearings/bushings, brushes or armature are the culprit
    I have looked at the back of the heater control panel all the wires and connections look good.
    I understand dc wiring.
    I just got the car and I don't have a Chevy shop manual yet for wiring diagrams.
    Any thoughts or info would be appreciated...
    Thanks in advance!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    On a car that old it could easily be a wire shorting out. I've had a couple of instances on older cars where things went awry, and ultimately found a wire that had been rubbing against a surface for years until it wore through the coating on the wire and shorted out. Not saying that's the case here necessarily, but it's an easy fix if it is (but can be tough to find though).
  • almuerzoalmuerzo Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 Impala with dual climate control. The passenger side blows hot air regardless of the temp setting. The driver side is fine. I replaced one of the relays (the middle 5-pin one) thinking that it may be the problem. I found that a fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it instantly popped. I am looking for the wiring diagram but cannot find it. None of the parts houses have them and it will take up to 5 weeks to get a copy of the book here. I understand that the slides (controls) are a printed circuit board and I would have to replace the whole thing if that is the problem. How can I be 100% that is what it is. Where the R/S harness connects to the back of the board, is there a certain voltage to look for? Are there any particular troubleshooting steps to follow? The part at my dealership is $290.00. I just want to be sure that is the problem before I continue to change stuff out and spend a lot of money. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    You've probably already considered this, but you might check a local "you-pull-it" auto parts place and see what a used part might cost. Obviously there's no guarantee on used parts, but when I had a similar problem with my '89 Toyota I think the used HVAC controller costs @ $40, while the new part went for $400. (I still ended up buying the new part eventually, but at least by that point I was able to install it in record time!)
  • almuerzoalmuerzo Posts: 5
    I'll try it. Thanks.
  • woody20woody20 Posts: 7
    Almuerzo, sounds to me like either your air actuator on the passenger side is fried or the vent air arm off the actuator is sticking causing the fuse to blow or you have a short to ground.

    Did you find the problem?
  • almuerzoalmuerzo Posts: 5
    Yeah. Kind of. We traded the car in for a new one. I was not able to pinpoint the problem but it's over now.

    Thanks for your respnse.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    So did you stick with an Impala, or go with something else?
  • almuerzoalmuerzo Posts: 5
    '07 Toyota Camry
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    :( All I ask is if/when you have problems with it, share them over on the Camry boards!
  • I have the above vehicle that is giving me some fits. Just a couple of weeks ago the A/C started blowing luke warm. I figured low on freon so I added some and still no cold air. After putting in the freon I noticed the next day that when I accelerated the a/c almost quit blowing and that it was making a squeaky noise like a belt was wet. Does anyone have any suggestions. I really could use the help. Thanks.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    How many miles on the car, and have you ever replaced your serpentine belt? Just thinking if it's the original belt it could be glazed by now, and your compressor pulley could be slipping as a result. If you haven't replaced it by now I would, and that might fix your problem (and if it doesn't, it's still a good idea to replace it). That's probably the simplest answer; if you've already replaced the belt it'll probably be a more complicated/expensive repair.
  • We have an 01 Impala and the other day the climate control buttons (fan control 1-5, hot/cold, air...) everything- just stopped working. When you turn them it does nothing. Do you know how to help?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    I bet if the problem is isolated to just the climate controls (and no other electronics), you'll end up replacing that whole unit there within the dash.

    Seems like before when I had a problem with one of my bulbs burning out I posted a question about trying to get in and replace the bulb, and someone replied that it's a complete unit that can't be opened up and fixed, so you have to replace the entire controller. For a light bulb it wasn't worth it, but if my AC wasn't working in the 100+ degree weather we're having currently, I'd probably spring for a replacement.

    I had a similar problem with my previous '89 Toyota Celica; I tried getting a used part at a junk yard, but the used part didn't work either, so I ended up ordering a new one (which was probably 10 years ago, and it cost @ $400). Not sure what the part would cost today on a Chevy, though.
  • I am having the same problem with no driver side heat. I purchased the actuator as previously posted. Was curious if anyone had any experience changing it to guide me in a direction to get to it easily. :confuse:
  • i have a 2001 impala, and the a/c will be doing fine and all of a sudden when i go over a bridge (high rise) it cuts off and wont go back on for like WEEKS... any body no whats going on???? :cry:
  • This will let you know how to replace drivers side or the passenger side actuator. Passenger side difference is noted at end of this letter. My 2004 Chevy Impala driver side climate control was stuck on cold, no matter where I switched it to. The light on the panel was also out. Resetting by disconnecting the battery did not work. I had to buy and replace the drivers side actuator (Part Number 15844096 - $38.46 at Chevy dealer). The passenger side actuator is also the exact same part number. They are both located under the dash, about equal height as the climate control knobs. Make sure you disconnect the positive cable on the battery before removing the switch. Drivers side actuator is accessed by removing the bottom dash cover on the drivers side. Two easy clips to disconnect the dash cover, remove the floor courtesy light by twisting, and the cover comes right out. The drivers side actuator is harder to work on than the passenger side, due to room. But I replaced my actuator with only having to take off the bottom dash cover. There are two screws holding the actuator on. I used a 1/4 hand driver with a 3" extension, a 1/4 universal joint for the 1/4 socket (and the universal is needed), and a 7/32" socket. These were the only tools I needed. After unscrewing the two screws, I pulled the actuator off of a small arm it is connected to which switches the flap for the climate control system between hot or cold. I then was able to let it hang down, and disconnected the wire running to the actuator. Room was an issue, and I did some of this by feel. Now comes the tricky part. The new actuator has to slide back on the small arm, but it is flat on two sides, with rounded ends. The new actuator has to match the flat ends to the same position as the old actuator. I hooked the wire onto the new actuator, and let it hang down. I held the old actuator up by it, and had my wife hold the battery connector to the battery to get power. The new actuator will rotate when the connection is made, and stopped rotating when I had my wife pull the connector from the battery. It took a couple tries, but I finally got it to stop at the same position as the old actuator. I then lined up the new switch, and got it on the control arm. This took a few minutes and tries, as I had to do it by feel. I then put the two screws back in and tightened them down. Again, tricky due to room. Once done, I put the cover back on, reconnected battery, and warmed up the car. Was very happy to find that I now had heat on the drivers side, as Michigan weather is cold this time of year. One note is that even though I now had heat, the light on my drivers side control stayed out. I can live with that though.
    The whole job took me about an hour and a half.
    Also, note if you have to replace the passenger side actuator, you need to remove the passenger side bottom cover on the dash. You then remove the glove compartment door by removing the five screws on the bottom of the door. Slide the whole glove compartment door out of the car. You will be happy to know you have much more room to replace the passenger side actuator, so it should be much easier and quicker than the drivers side.
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