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Chevrolet Impala Climate Control/AC/Heater

135

Comments

  • rysterryster Posts: 528
    For those of you having issues with '06+ Impalas where the heater blows cold at idle, and then hot while moving, there are a couple of things to look for.

    Last week the water pump on my '06 Impala failed. When it happened (and aside from coolant being spewed all over the engine), the heater would only blow hot air while the car was in motion. At stoplights, or while just idling, it was cold.

    1. Make sure your coolant (Dex-cool) level is where it should be. If coolant is low, the heater will not work as well.

    2. Make sure the radiator cap is an 18psi cap, as opposed to a 15psi cap. When my water pump first failed, I erroneously thought it was a faulty radiator cap. I bought a 15psi replacement and installed it. The next morning, the dealer replaced the water pump and left the 15psi cap on the radiator. Even after the repair, I was having the heater issue. I reinstalled the factory 18psi cap later that night, and heater function went back to normal. The system needs the extra pressure.

    3. If your coolant level is normal, and you have the 18psi radiator cap, the system most likely has an air bubble in it somewhere preventing coolant from making it all the way through the heater hoses. You can try turning the heat all the way up for several minutes while driving to see if you can eliminate minor air bubbles. That may force enough coolant through the system to "pop" the bubbles. If that doesn't work, you may need to have the system flushed and re-filled to get rid of the bubbles. This is actually a common issue with the '06+ Impalas.
  • HELP! I'm having 2 issues with 01 Impala heat.

    Problem 1 -- Blower is working inconsistently, and in my cold location, this can be dangerous. Heat will work fine for weeks, then will stop working for no apparent reason. 2 WEEKS AGO, our local mechanic replaced the Resistor (blower motor) and I hoped that would solve the problem, but yesterday after driving for about 5 minutes, the blower quit again. I pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car, re-started the car and the blower came back on for about 5 seconds, then quit again. I drove for about 5 minutes, and the blower kicked back on and worked fine for the rest of the afternoon while I was out running errands. When this situation has happened in the past, I've tried all the different fan settings, tried to change from recirculate to fresh (nothing happens). Also, the back window blower quits working.

    Problem 2 -- when the heat does work, the interior never really warms up to the point of being comfortable. Even after driving 45 minutes on the expressways, the temperature gauge only registers right above the very lowest reading on the dash of 140. Coolant level is OK.

    Any help would be much appreciated!
  • Hello! My name is Keith and my parent's 04 has this problem. Their mechanic couldn't fix it but didn't charge them so I figured this will be a Christmas gift. And this made it VERY EASY...well, not physically for my 40 year old body...

    Being the geek engineer I am, I tested the failed unit and found it didn't work with 12 VDC. Upon opening the case with careful manipulation of the snap tabs, I saw what could be the problem, the buss bars from the connector to the motor are crimped onto the motor terminals. Carefully removing the motor, a brushed DC perm. magnet unit, it worked! I crimped the connections, then reassembled and reindexed the unit so it will reassemble. It worked with the reindexing...must be a potentiometer on the draft door and some kind of H-bridge to control direction...yeah, that is the engineer speaking.

    I found the tool for the job was my flexy-extending screwdriver. But I didn't have a 7/32" socket that would fit into its 1/4" hex head...so I took a foundling Torx bit and using a knife hone, took off 2 opposing corners so it would fit into the 1/4" square socket. This was PLENTY of strength to remove the self-tapping screws. And install them too.

    Again, many thanks. And this little tip MAY prove to be the critical failure. Metal fatigue in these clips IS definite as they appear to be annealed copper, tin plated. If it happens again, a drop of carefully applied 63/37 electronics solder WILL fix it. Pb free, RoHS approved solder has caused satellites to fail. I don't think solder is all that hazardous but in any case, I have a few pounds for my hobby work.

    Mechanical, if you need to know what kind of engineer. I couldn't handle that phasor stuff. Now tensors? They are cool..
  • Finally got to test it...WORKS! Dad is VERY HAPPY and it didn't cost him a DIME. He approved the soldering of the connections and they were easily done with my 35 W Weller. Now it will never fail.
  • I KNEW there was a reason I saved the old actuator! Now I am going to fix it and have a spare!
  • Just be careful keeping the motor in place. It CAN be reversed which would really mess things up. The one I worked on had blue QC marks on the "top" half with positive lead on the motor inside or furthest from the plug connector. Test the motor before committing on a repair. If I can locate a source for the motor, I'll post it. Repairing these motors is possible but only if your other hobby is repairing watches.

    Soldering is easy but since the terminals are right next to the brush holders, use a large 35-40 watt iron. Weller makes a great 40 Watt that is cheap. Why a lot of heat? Conduction. With more heat, less time is needed.

    Flux core 63/37 or 60/40 in 0.062". Only solder the outboard portion, this is overkill as the motor MIGHT draw 4 amps at the most. Doing the outside only keeps the brush holders cool. They are polyamide which will tolerate 400 F for a short spell.
  • tich1tich1 Posts: 1
    When you changed out your thermostat you may have allowed air in the system. To correct the problem you need to bleed the system by opening a small brass fitting just above where your thermostat is .
  • jack137jack137 Posts: 19
    Have the same problem. Anyone know how to fix?
  • jack137jack137 Posts: 19
    I have a 2000 impals LS and cannot control the heat /ac air flow, it seems to be stuck in a default setting (all vents). The fan operates fine and the vent switch seem to be operating. I did have a rattling coming from the passenger blower motor area for a few seconds but has stopped. When looking under the dash on that side I cannot hear any movement in the air box when turning the control switch. Any ideas where to start?
  • I have an identical situation, the fluid had gotten a low. Did you resolve the situation by bleeding the line or further steps?
  • I am replacing the heater control panel on the dash since many lights are burned out.

    The replacement part only has 2 screw holes, 2 push in tabs, and one plug-in wire strip.

    I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE HEATER CONTROL PANEL ! :(

    MONTY5283
  • purchased this Impala at the police car auction.
    This car has frosty a/c but there is no heat at all with the controls on hot.
    The car interior will heat up if the car is left running/parked.
    As soon as you start to drive the air turns cold again.
    Any idea on what needs to be done ?
    Old school used to be a vacuum diaphram under the hood...
    Thanks
  • Did you get it replaced,and how was it done?Im having the same problem. I removed the climate control for no reason
  • lawdog89lawdog89 Posts: 1
    I've got a 2009 Chevy Impala with 21000 miles on it and recently the a/c stops working when the car is stopped and idle. When you drive it comes back on.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,166
    Hello Lawdog89,
    I apologize that you are having a concern with your vehicle. Have you taken the vehicle to the dealership to be diagnosed? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • The button for outside air is always lit up. When I push the button to recirculate the inside air, it will not light up. If I hold it down, all it does is blink and the outside air button stays lit up. How do I get the outside air exchange to turn off and just have the inside recirculating air working :confuse:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,166
    Hello Tatertot5218,
    The recirculation mode cannot be used with outside air, floor, defrost, or
    defogging modes. So if any of those modes are on then you cannot use the recirculation mode. If you have any further questions please let me know. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • I bought a used 2008 Chevy Impala LT and liike it so far. I do have a question. Now that it is getting colder I notice that if I turn the heat control knob to anything less than 3/4 of the way from the HOT setting that the air temp cools down pretty quick. Is this normal and what might be wrong and possible fixes. does that knob control the water flowing to a heater core or a vacuum solenoid or something simple?
    Pat
  • I also have a 06 Impala that does the same thing. The heat also seems to lessen when I am going under 50 mph. Anything over that speed the heat blows hotter. I do not use my remote start. :confuse:
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Got air in the coolant system? Not easy to get out and can affect cabin heating.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,166
    tatertot5218,
    Have you taken your vehicle in to the dealer? If not, I would definitely recommend starting there! I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • INQUIRY TOPIC
    A/C & Heating

    INQUIRY DETAILS
    Hello, first I cannot send this in the allotted characters.I can see by the forums on this site that a lot of people trust in Edmunds. I think the info is not known to Edmunds nor thousands of Chevrolet owners & prospective buyers. This pertains to my 2008 Impala & possibly many other chevys. I told Chevrolet about this last year & last week. The COMPRESSOR runs almost constantly in HEATING & A/C situations. The facts are: SITUATION #1 A/C in the off position, right knob in the vent position, two thumbwheel slides in the mid position calling for heat, air flow in the off position, air in the recirculation mode. The outside temperature drops & more air flow is needed. Switch the fan knob to the first higher position or higher & the outside air automatically switches on. Switch the air back to recirculating air and the A/C kicks on with tne A/C lite off. Push the A/C button, the A/C lite comes on (as it should). Push the A/C button again and the lite goes out as it should but the A/C does not turn off. The only way to turn the A/C off is (1) by pressing the outside air button to the on position or (2) turning the fan knob to the off position. I would think that people living in areas where the temperature drops to freezing would switch the recirculating air back on because they don't want freezing air coming into the car. SITUATION #2 Temperature in the 60's. A/C off. Right knob in the vent position. Heat switches off. Fan knob in second position and outside air open. You're behind a smoky bus and the temperature is dropping. Push recirculating air on & the A/C kicks on. The average person would then slide the temperature controls for heat. They will get heat but also the compressor would be running. This is a waste of gas and waste of power. I sent Chevrolet this info and they told me that's the way it's designed. They asked me what I wanted from this. I told them nothing because I am aware of the situation and I know how to control it. I think all the owners of the models that this is happening in should be notified about it. The only time the compressor is NOT running is when outside air is open and A/C off. Please let me know what you think about this. Thank you for your patience. Mike Vasko
  • have almost same prob 07 ls no heat,took to dealer,they said air in system,power flushed it ,that was it.to the tune of $129.00
  • Since heating and a/c problems seem to be a universal problem with the newer Impalas...wouldnt you think this is a design flaw caused by Chevy and they should correct it? I still have no heat when the car is idling or when the RPMs go under 2..like slow driving. I just purchased this car in October and of course the limited warranty expired as soon as the weather got cold enough for me to use the heater. I do not feel I should have to pay out of pocket to correct something that the designers of the Impala screwed up on. ( I know 5 people who own 2004 or newer Impalas and they all having heating problems)
  • Bhender....same problem with my 2004. I find I only have heat when my car is reving more then 1 on the tach. When I have to sit at a stop light, I only get cold air blowing.
  • The fan on my Impala 2000 is not working correctly. I've been loosing speeds one by one. If I put the knob on 1 or 2 nothing happens - minimum speed is now 3 so its either off or roaring which is annoying. Now 3 seems to be failing.

    Anyone know if this is switch or the fan motor?
  • so is there way to get the air out of the system without taking it into the dealer???? cannot believe how many other impala owners have this problem. I agree if it is a known flaw it should be corrected by GM and not the owner. :sick:
  • asnopeasnope Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2007 Impala, yesterday. I want to make sure everything works. I am trying to test the A/C and the compressor does not come on and when I press the A/C button and the light flashes 6 times and then goes off. One thing I must disclose is that I live in Minnesota and the outside temperature was 33 degrees F.

    My question is: Does the HVAC system have a sensor that senses outside air temperature and does not allow the A/C to turn on when it's to cold outside, or is the A/C system broken?
    :confuse:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,166
    asnope,
    Per the owners manual page 169 it states: The A/C will not operate if the outside temperature is 40 degrees F or below. I hope this information helps! Welcome to the GM Family!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
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