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Hyundai Azera Lighting



  • I had Hellas and loved them. Interestingly the manual shows how to change all the bulbs in the car, except the fogs. It says take it to the dealer to change fog lights.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I had Hellas and loved them. Interestingly the manual shows how to change all the bulbs in the car, except the fogs. It says take it to the dealer to change fog lights.

    Believe it or not, changing the fog light bulbs is quite easy. What you have to do is make sure whichever side you're replacing, turn the steering wheel all the way to the other side to give you room to work. Then...using a flat blade screw driver or putty knive, pop the wheel well liner out so you can work your hand inside of the fender. It takes a little work, but once you figure it's easy. You then have access to the back side of the fog lights. Reach in, grasp it and twist gently to see which way you need to turn it to remove it. The wire is long enough that you can pull it back towards you, unplug the old bulb and put in the new one.'s just a matter of putting it back in place.
  • don't know about horizontal adj. but vertical easy. guess you know this already. qn: i have 2006 azera too. re: piaa h7 bulbs-did you merely replace original bulbs? can this be done by unscrewing back of lite assembly and removing and installing bulbs? did you do this for both lo & hi bulbs? did this make a real difference in visibility? i see on ebay piaa h7 xtreme wht plus 4000k twin pks for $69 one place and another $26. any advise here would be appreciated. what does 4000k mean?
    thanks, bob
  • ratledgeratledge Posts: 231
    Both the high and low beam bulbs are a simple 30-second (depending on your dexterity) swap-out. Beware that some Azeras have H7/H7 combination (high and low bulbs are the same) while some have H7 high beams and H11b low beam bulbs. There is NO replacement for the H11b made by anyone that I know of at this point - they are a special OSRAM-designed "quick change" H11 bulb with non-standard connectors.

    Don't expect much of a change is the actual light output replacing your OEM H7 bulbs with PIAA bulbs. They will look different (i.e. 'blue-er') and the higher the color temp (i.e. 4000K is the bulb's color temperature); the more blue-looking they will be. The best replacement bulbs I've found for the stock/OEM H7 bulbs are the OSRAM "Rallye" 65watt bulbs: from the way they are marketed they are likely NOT street-legal, but I always drive my Azera off-road after dark, anyway. :blush: It's basically an H9 (2100 lumen) bulb on an H7 (1400 lumen) base - therefore you're getting a 50% boost in usable light.

    The problem with the PIAA bulbs (I've used a LOT of different bulbs in my '03 Infiniti I-35 and my '08 Azera) is that they have very limited life (maybe 150-200 hours vs. standard bulbs which are 400-500 hour rated), tend to actually have LESS usable light due to the blue-colored coating on the bulbs and - at least for the H7-based Azeras, you need MORE light on the road - not less.

    My '08 has the H11b bulbs - I haven't had any problem with "over-driving" the headlights complaints many H7-equipped Azeras have mentioned. Having both H7 in the high and low beams means you can swap those bulbs out for the special OSRAM Rallye part and have 50% more light on the road all the time. There is no significant difference in the amount of heat generated by these higher-output bulbs. You should be able to find them for about $20-25 each online. I know "" sells them, but (just checked) they are out of stock. :sick:

    Putting 4 of those bulbs in your '06 Azzy should give you 4200 lumens (vs. 2800 lumens for the stock bulbs) with low beams and 8400 lumens (vs. 5600) with high beams on. :shades: Total about $80-100 for a 50% boost in usable light, which is not much more than you'll pay for a pair of PIAA bulbs (depending on the specific bulbs, maybe less) - and you'll be replacing all 4 instead of just the low beams.
  • boblawboblaw Posts: 3
    thanks for the reply. i have been reading about the osram nite breaker. seller says this bulb is a replacement for the oem halogen bulb. it says nothing about a kit having to be used. and seller says illumination is increased by 90%. can anyone advise me about this? price is british pounds 20.
    thanks, boblaw
  • ratledgeratledge Posts: 231
    In general, the +90 series ("NightBreaker" or whatever) is not going to boost your usable light output by the much, Bob. It should indeed work as a direct replacement for the bulb as long as it is the same Hx model number you are replacing. The only 'fix' for those of us that have H11b low beams is to whittle yourself two H9 sockets in their place and put the 2100 lumen bulbs in place.
  • By chance I was able to get a good comparison of the Silverstar agaisnt the Silverstar Ultras. I had a headlight bulb go out on a trip at night. I had Silverstars in both headlamps. When the one went out I pulled an "extra" bulb out of the glove box and replaced the Silverstar with a Silverstar Ultra. I wasn't convinced until this comparison but the Ultra was definitely much brighter.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Extra bulbs are so nice to have on hand! ;)
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Posts: 160

    I'm currently running on stock bulbs on my 07 Azzy. However, I'm itching to get the Silverstars on my car. The place where we live is unlighted at night & brighter lights would definitely help.

    What I am worried about is the rumor that these replacements don't last as long as the OEMs. I have heard that they go out almost once every 1-2 years. Is that the case? If so, why can't Sylvania make reliable ones as OEMs?

    I want brighter light but I want them to last as long as the OEMs. Can you guys help me? I don't want the lights to konk out when my wife is driving as she's not at all mechanically inclined. (Her idea of changing a tire is calling me to do it, lol!!)
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Wobbly ears...headlights are a funny thing. I've had OEM bulbs go out within the 1st year of ownership. I've also had aftermarket bulbs last longer than a year. The problem is you're dealing with an electrical system and surges can cause bulbs to blow. Other factors are how many miles you're driving and how often you drive at night. Also, if you're the type that drives with your headlights on during the effectively shorten the life of those bulbs greatly because the U.S. Azeras don't have a daytime running light funtion that burns the headlights at a fraction of the voltage as they would with night driving.

    In reality, a bulb never goes out at an opportune time and about the only thing you can do is maybe by 2 sets at one time to have spare bulbs on hand in the event one should go out. A light bulb lasting 1-2 years is really, really good (especially halogens). However, according to the lighting experts, we aren't supposed to be waiting for the bubls to blow before replacing them as the bulb naturally grows dimmer over time (which makes sense). You can get a set of Silverstar Ultras for between $35-40/pr. and lasting 1-2 years...that's not a bad return actually.
  • boblawboblaw Posts: 3
    has anyone figured out how to adjust high beams? if the low beams

    are adjusted does this affect the high beams?
    thanks boblaw
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557

    If you adjust the low beams...the high beams adjust with it as each adjustment affects the entire headlight housing.

  • It does seem to be a good idea to have an extra bulb or two in the car. It seems the haolgen bulbs don't last as long as sealed beams but it's a lot easier to carry a spare.
  • joew6969joew6969 Posts: 4
    I have a 2009 Hyundai Azera Limited. We all know that the standard halogen bulbs are lousy for night driving, especially out here in rural Ely, NV. There are NO aftermarket bulbs for the H-11B low beam. I found an H.I.D. conversion kit made specifically for the H-11B light bulb. It only costs $120.00 and is available at I am going to order the 6000K kit because it gives the appearance of BMW, Mercedes and Audi like H.I.D.'s. When you view the kit online it describes how the kit fits H-11Bs' without any modifications. As soon as mine arrives and I install it I will post another message and let you know how easy the kit was to install and if I am happy with the look and performance of it.
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Posts: 160

    If possible, can you take as many pictures as possible of the process? It would be of great help to those of us who are more visual learners
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I'm always looking for a way to make my Azera look unique, but still keep it classy. I think I have succeeded. I underlined my headlights with some LED strips. In the pics...I don't have the headlights on as I still need to upgrade the bulbs to a hyper-white bulb so it all blends together. I'm also going to switch my fog lights back from the euro yellow to hyper-white as well. Let me know what you think...




  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    looks good Are the led strips inside the light cover??? Where did you get the strips??Are they wired separately for independent operation???
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Thanks took some playing around before I figured out how I wanted it. The strips I picked up from Auto Zone (24" LED light kit with adhesive back). They are wired to come on when the car is running, sorta my answer to daytime running lights as the Azera isn't equipped and I don't like burning my regular headlights since it greatly shortens bulb life. I wired them with the negative running to the battery's negative terminal, and the positive lead is running through my firewall to my fuse box for the cut on.
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    thanks...did you mount them on the outside of the headlight housing or did you "bake" the housing and take it apart???
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    101649...the LED strips are actually mounted to a small lip on the bumper underneath the front edge of the headlight housing. I didn't feel like baking the headlights and pulling them apart because if you don't put them back together right way, you're asking for condensation build-up in them.

    I did, however, remove the headlight housings, cleaned that lip area really good for best adhesion and applied the strips end to end so it looks like one continuous strip. Then I ran the wires for the ones on the passenger side to the ones on the driver's side (I had to splice wire in between using butt connectors). I then ran the wire through the firewall (piggy-backing on my amp power wire) to the fuse box and I'm using a 10 amp source that is only on when the car is running. The negative lead is connected directly to the battery negative terminal.
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