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Chevrolet Cobalt General Care & Maintenance

124

Comments

  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    Ricky, thanks for responding! This makes at least 3 reports now I've heard of on this issue. This is exactly what I fear, getting stuck in the old dealer "could not duplicate concern" loop. You can't fault them really. Cars are so freaking complicated now & techs can't spend all day on a warranty job or they'd starve. If I can dig up anything I'll let you know.

    Joel
  • Does anyone have any information about GM's Protection Plan for extended warranties?
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Here's is what I found on google.

    www.gmprotectionplan.com
  • does anyone know the size of the nut for the plastic oil filter cap on the 2007 cobalt
  • 24 millimeter. You could use an adjustable wrench.
  • Does ayone have firsthand experience with GM's protection plan?
  • I am sure the nut built into the top of all the GM Ecotec 2.2L engines is 1 1/4 inches (or close to 32 mm).
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    What kind of experience are you talking about. If you trade the vehicle in you can get a pro-rated amount back. The GM warranty is among the best, if not the best in the industry for coverage with no co-pays. You can shop different dealers for the warranty. You could buy a Chevy but then go to a Buick dealership and negotiate an extended warranty there for your Chevy. You could wait a year or two before having it added on if you want.
  • For do-it-yourselfers, the GM Ecotec engine requires a low-profile 1 1/4 inch socket to remove the plastic cap on top of the built-in oil filter. This tool is not easy to find.

    However, Amazon.com is presently selling the "Lisle 14700 Oil Filter Wrench for GM 2.2L" for $8.94 --- shipping is free if you buy something else that makes your order total over $25 (the something else can be anything you were probably going to buy anyway --- such as say a computer printer ink cartridge.)
  • I have a 2007 Cobalt. I do my own oil changes. Are there fittings that need to be Lubricated, and if so, how often? Thanks for any help.
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    There's no grease fittings Mike. I like to use silicone spray on the door seals and white lithium on hinges, etc, that's about it.
  • I have had nothing but problems so far with the sunroof on my 07 Cobalt LT. I have only had it since the end of June, and so far have had to take it in for an adjustment because it was leaking air. Now it rattles so much I can hardly stand it. I am just wondering what it will take to have it fixed properly. I love the car and have had no other problems aside from this. Has anyone else had any issues with their sunroof?
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    I'd just try another dealer service dept. You'll eventually get a Mr. Good Wrench that can fix it.
  • Does anyone hear a noise coming from the engine when it is cold outside? It disappears when it is warm outside or when the engine warms up.
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    Mine always makes a slight whining noise until the engine warms. It has since new. 2007 2.2, auto, 8500mi.

    Joel
  • Have you ever determined where the noise came from, or have you ignored it?
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    No, I've never really dug into it. What noise are you hearing?
  • The Walmart Superstores in Metairie and Hammond Louisiana don't carry the air filter (FRAM number CA-9969). Do they stock it in the area that you live?
  • Which one?

    1. Plain car wash and spray wax.

    2. Car wash&wax

    3. Car wash&wax and spray wax
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    i use the #1 option. and i like eagle products. :D
  • gerald41gerald41 Posts: 37
    I just wanted to inform people on the proper care of the exterior of a car. First miss conception is people don't think cars need to be waxed. Cars today are clearcoated which is just clear paint, it's not special paint. They need to be washed and waxed just like cars without clearcoat did, with the exception of compounding.
    To keep a car always looking like new a car should be washed atleast twice a month and waxed every 3 months. Proper car waxing is to use a silicone wax such as Meguiar's NXT wax and then a day or 2 later a layer of pure canuba wax as P2S1. Not only will your car shine like new be will be protected from all the elements . Just thought I'de pass this on.
  • I use an 1 1/4 short scocket
  • I think the frequency depends on whether or not the car is garaged at home and if it sits outside all day in a parking lot at work or is under cover. I'm retired so I usually wax cars about once a year. Washing is very important. Cars should be washed frequently.
  • I have a 2008 cobalt and need to add some tranny fluid and need to find the plug or what ever it is that will let me fill it. I know the tranny is "sealed" but, whatever............. Does any one have, or can anyone take a pic. of their engine and put an arrow on it and say "this is the plug!" or "under this is the plug" ? I replaced my radiator and need to top the tranny off. And what is the recommended tranny fluid for it?

    Thanks
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    check your operators manual for fluid type. and perhaps it will give you the underhood info you need.
  • horsey55horsey55 Posts: 15
    This is a great product that I have used for years. My Cobalt is used as a work car, and after only two applications a year, still beads like crazy.
    Had to mention this to the members that like to keep their cars looking top shelf.
    www.raceglaze.com
  • laserbluelaserblue Posts: 313
    At 49,000 km (29,800 miles) I noticed that I was loosing coolant in my 2005 Cobalt. The dealer change my engine head and valve gaskets, it cost me 1,300 $
    Since that repair, every time I started my car (cold start) I can hear a clinking sound from the engine until it gets warm (the same sound as a muffler cooling off). I called the dealer and he said it was normal and the sound came from the bolts because they were warming up. I told him that it didn't do that when it was new, it's only from the time they worked on it.
    It's been 2 months and I drove 2,000 km (1,250 miles) since they replaced my gaskets, oil, coolant and bolts ect... and tonight I was checking under the hood because I'm planning a little trip this weekend and guess what, I noticed that my coolant in my reservoir is 2 inches below the normal "cold" level and the color has gone from orange to a brownish color and the plastic of my reservoir is stained with a kind of milky white residue that sticks on the interior of the antifreeze recovering tank.
    Any comments on what's happening?
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    It sounds like they didn't fix it correct and anti-freeze and oil are mixing together. The milky white residue is also a sign of oil/anti-freeze but the milky residue can also be from a car that is only driven short distance and doesn't warm up enough.

    Sounds to me that they need to fix the problem again.
  • laserbluelaserblue Posts: 313
    Just came back from the dealer.

    They checked everything with a special light to see if the antifreeze was leaking from somewhere. Everything is o.k.
    They said that probably there was air that got in the system when they replaced the head and valve gasket and they went up in my recovery tank and that's how the antifreeze's level went down.
    They toped off the coolant to it's full level.
    For the color change...they told me that it's probably dirt coming from the system that went in my antifreeze.
    Now for the white, milky substance... it's formed by a dirt ring on my plastic recovery tank as my level was lowering slowly and with the movement it mixed with the antifreeze and settled on the side of the tank.

    They recommended me to do a "cooling system flush and cleaning" in the future but that it was not urgent.
  • laserbluelaserblue Posts: 313
    I was cleaning my car today and I noticed that someone drove over a freshly painted white line with the truck.
    Result...my inner fenders (black plastic) are spotted all around with dry white paint splashed by the tires.
    I tried to remove the paint with soap, spot remover, soap pad, gasoline, paint thinner nothing worked. One of those products has made my plastic fade, good thing I tried them on a spot that doesn't show to much.
    Can someone suggest me something or has tried something with success to remove paint spots on plastic without damaging it?
This discussion has been closed.