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Buick LeSabre Electrical/Lighting

seabushseabush Posts: 68
I own a 1998 Buick Le Sabre. Today I experienced problems with turn signal. The turn signal lights are on but the flasher doesn't work on the left side (front and back) What could be the possible problem?

Thanks
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Comments

  • Try new light bulbs. Even though they are lit, they might be bad. Works for me every time.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    Try putting on the four way flasher which will flash all the bults the turn signals would flash. Go around the car to be sure the same bulbs are light up on the left side as light up on the right side. I'll bet you find one bulb is not working somewhere on front or back. One bulb oout will let the lights turn on but won't have enough current draw to heat the spring in the flasher unit to make it turn off
  • I have posted this message in Maintenance & Repair forums, as well, but thought that maybe LeSabre experts might have some thoughts on my car's problems.

    I'm a frequent poster on Edmunds, but have never had one as crazy as this. My '97 LeSabre's check engine light came on a few days ago. The car ran well enough with it on for a few days. The light even went off briefly. However, this morning, the light had returned, and the car refused to shift out of first gear. Additionally, the input to the pedal did not directly correlate with the motor's reaction. Strangest was my fuel gauge, which now randomly meanders between 1/2 tank and empty and settles for awhile before wandering again (I have a little bit less than a half tank remaining). I took it to a local auto parts store where they ran the trouble codes. TPS was listed as one of the codes, and so I replaced it. The car now idles well enough, but still refuses to shift out of first, and the TPS trouble code refuses to be erased when clearing codes with the OBD II. The clearing of the codes appears to have settled my idle, and replacing the TPS has made my pedal input better correlate with the motor's reaction. Additionally, the fuel gauge problem appears to have righted itself, but the car still won't shift out of first.

    My friend suspects the problem lies in my Electronic Control Module, but he admits he doesn't know GMs all that well. I have the following questions:

    - Does anyone else think this is the likely culprit?
    - Would a repair shop be able to use their Snap-On Diagnostics to better pinpoint the problem?
    - Is there any sort of traceable relay that might be fouled between the computer and the transmission?
    - How likely is it that the problem resides in the transmission (I had it flushed a little more than a year ago)?

    I appreciate any thoughts on what's ailing my car. Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef2398d/2418

    You might post a question in the above discussion. Alcan or others may know something to check. There is a fuse panel above the passenger's right kick panel--someone said it can be reached without taking off the hush panel, but I believe the hush panel has a list of the fuses there. A fuse there may be related.

    A connector next to the driver's left foot for the grounds sometimes causes problems with corrosions or moisture. There is another ground beside the driver's seat under the carpet between it and the door and one on the passenger side. Grounds at the instrument panel next to the emergency brake could be gas gauge problem or connector going to the back to the tank.

    A first thing to check is the connections on the battery. Take the ground off. Take off the two positives and clean everything and check cables the contacts connect to in order to make sure they aren't eaten away by battery acid. Is your battery good? After you clean and replace the cables, check voltmeter for the battery operation.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi ... just a word about forums etiquette. It's not a good idea to post your questions in so many discussions. That tends to annoy people and then they don't want to help.

    So please don't post in the discussion imidizol97 suggested. I'm sure he didn't realize you'd already posted so many times. The people who read the discussions you've already found also read the one he suggested, so you'll reach the right people.

    I hope we can help you with this.
  • Thanks for filling me in on the etiquette. Most of the time, I have an idea where my problem lies - with this one, though, it could be anything. You're probably right, though, that the people who can help me read them all. I'll be sure to post in one, or two max, from now on. I hope you can help, too.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Let us know what happens!
  • I have a 92 Buick Lesabre Limited and every time that i try to start it, a security light goes on. some people tell me to get a new key, but it doesn't work. i have also tried to find purple/white and white/black wires to put a resistor in, but i cannot find them!! if you have ANY suggestions, PLEASE tell me ANYTHING!!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    Do you have more than one key that came with the car? Have you cleaned the key contacts-the black chip in the head- with a pencil eraser. Have you dipped it in alcohol and put it into the lock cylinder wet to try to clean the contacts inside the lock.

    If the VATS system reads the wrong resistance it locks up the starter after 3 turns of the key for 5 minutes or less. Then you can try again.

    If you find that it is the wires or contacts in the cylinder and you choose to bypass see the link:

    http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm

    http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/art- icle.pdf

    You have to find the two wires at a connector down by the base of the steering column. The two wires may be inside a small orange wire which is really a tube.
  • I bring the other key with me just in case i am in a pinch, but neither one of them work well. what i was thinking about doing was to test one of the keys by building it up with sauter or something that would stick out more on the key to connect the circuit what do you think
    ps thanks for the info! if you have more let me know or if you have more ideas!
    mandi
  • i found an orange wire thing. it was coming out of the steering column. do you think that that could be it? it kind of looked like to wires in one casing and it was orange. if it is it, what should i do next? should i follow them until i see a purple/white white/black wires?let me know as soon as possible
    mandi
  • Problem solved on the stuck-in-first-gear, wild fuel gauge, and inconsistent pedal response problem. My friend who works at a dealership service department followed GM troubleshooting procedures for the codes I'd pulled, and we found voltage going to a pin on the PCM where there should not have been any. One used PCM reprogrammed from a Pontiac Grand Am later, and my car has never run better. Hopefully, if anyone else has the symptoms I experienced, they'll be able to save themselves quite a bit of aggravation, and go straight for the PCM.
  • Just got a '95 with 58k miles on it. It breaks up while in drive when there is a load on it. It shudders when you hit the gas hard and going up hills. In drive, you can press down on the gas and it surges up and down when kept at a steady point.

    My thoughts are fuel pressure regulator and maybe a coil or wires. Everything looks original from plugs to wires etc.

    Any ideas?

    THX
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    My first thoughts are get new OEM wires and plugs. Get the exact GM plug from whatever auto source you like. Get OEm wires from GM supplier or internet or get Belden -- I think I got those at NAPA.

    Put those on. That sounds like it could be spark scatter where the spark is not able to fire across the thin mixture under light load at speed. you feel it most when the torque convert has locked up at 45-50 in 3rd or 4th and you are accelerating slightly to hold speed up a slight slope.

    Second would be fuel filter. You can replace that yourself with jackstands. It will on fuel lines under right side of the car either in front of the rear wheel or under the passenger's feet. That last location requires good safety knowledge using the jackstands; rear location can be done without them.
  • I agree. I pulled one plug and it was very worn, likely originals. Wires are Packards which I think are OEM. They look tired too.I'm going to replace the plugs, wires and fuel filter tomorrow. It also seems as though there is about a half quart over in the oil and it smells like gas. Since the FPR is not leaking maybe the misfires are allowing the unburnt gas to leak down the cylinder walls.

    Update to follow tomorrow.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    That all makes sense that misfiring lets gas get into the oil. If your oil smells of fuel, it would be a good time to change it to reduce wear on the cylinder walls.
  • Thanks for the quick responses. I should have mentioned I am changing the oil and filter too before I spin a bearing.

    It also acts up more when hot than cold - another sign of an electrical problem/weak wires.

    If this does not work, then off to coil packs. I know how to test an old fashioned coil. Any idea how to test a coil pack?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    I took off each coil on my 93 and tested resistance on imput and output.

    I suspect you'll fix your problem with new plugs and wires. Good luck getting the back plugs out easily...
  • Update-

    I replaced the plugs and wires and 95% of the problem is gone. I also changed the oil and fuel filter.

    Looks like I got off cheap.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    I would suggest a fuel system cleaning with Techron additive from Advance auto, Meijers, or any store. They ahve a fuel system cleaner and an injector cleaner version. They both contain Techron additive which Chevron uses in their fuel. Years back it was considered the best package of additives. Follow directions: pour into an almost empty tank, add only enough gallons of gasoline for the size plastic bottle you bought (12 or 20), the gas should be name brank--I usually use premium.

    You'll notice a difference in a few miles.

    Since the car has high years but low mileage, I suggest trying that.

    You've been busy changing all that in one day. Report back.
  • The plugs and wires were a breeze and I was able to get it al done by noon before I went to work. I was planning on trying the injector cleaner too. The car needs to run! Probably won't get too much today.
  • 53rocket53rocket Posts: 65
    Put the Techron in today. I will finally run it to work tomorrow and see how well it goes.
  • dshepherd3dshepherd3 Posts: 194
    Use the Techron with less than 1/2 tank and run it down to be most effective.
  • 53rocket53rocket Posts: 65
    The Techron seemed to help but there is still a bit of a stutter in acceleration with the lock-up torque converter on and moderate acceleration; somewhere in the mid 60's. Guess I'll just live with it, I only bought the car for $3200. I'll give the EGR a look to see if it is clean.
  • 53rocket53rocket Posts: 65
    The surging is still around but it seems to be only at speeds over 60mph. I believe it is the torque converter locking and unlocking. Any idea on how extensive this is to fix - pull tranny or done while in car.......?
    What is the damage if I keep running it for a while? (0% of my driving is on the highway above 60mph.
  • 53rocket53rocket Posts: 65
    Well, I finally checked the resistance on the coils. One was slightly out of spec on the primary side. I replaced the one and the stuttering seems to be gone. However, there is a lso a vibration issue that remains where I need to check for worn parts. I had one inner tie rod replaced already. It was hard to tell the difference between the stuttering and the vibration. Maybe there is no torque converter problem.

    MTC
  • buck15buck15 Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 LeSabre that has had two fuel sending units installed within the last 6 months. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing these units to burn out so quickly? By using the term "burnt out" I mean the gas gauge shows empty all the time, even after a fill up. Usually a month is all I get out of the sending unit.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    Did a dealer install two replacements? Or a local shop guy?

    did they check the sending unit at the connections back by the tank to see if the sender was working correctly? Or did they just throw a part at it again since they had a boat payment due?

    The problem sounds like it is connections or dash gauge problems. I'd have to check service manuals to see the full circuits.
  • buck15buck15 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply imidazo197. I had what I thought to be a trusted shop install the two units. After I read your reply I got to thinking maybe it could be a bad connection, and I don`t know if the guy replaced the wiring harness or not, if he didn`t that could very well be the problem. Thanks again for the reply.
  • I have an 02 Lesabre, and the service engine light came on a few
    weeks ago. I took it to the closest dealer earlier this week, and
    they told me I needed about $3000 in repairs on the car,
    ranging from a new transmission to brakes, and other various
    things. I asked what would turn the light off, and they said to
    replace a soleniod, which was stuck open. So i had them do it,
    and about 20 miles later, the light came on.

    So I went today to a mechanic recommended by a friend and
    they ran diagnostics for me. It came back with a P0741 trouble
    code (torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off),
    and they told me to drive it until the light came back on and
    then call them and bring it back in. Well, driving home from
    work tonight, again after about 20 miles, the light is back on.

    What kind of repairs should i expect to fix this problem? Will the
    transmission need rebuilt, as the dealer initially suggested?
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