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Buick LeSabre Steering/Suspension

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Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    edited July 2012
    Bushings on the A-arm?

    Have the tires and wheels been checked with a RoadForce balancer? That will show up belt problems and quality problems in the tire and wheel.

    Hub?

    Tire rod ends, inner AND outer?

    Mounts (4? or 6?) holding the engine cradle to the front of the unibody? On several Bonnevilles I've read about problems with rust around the rubber bushings--I don't recall just how it occurred. Search for engine cradle or stub frame bushing?
  • Thanks for the quick reply,

    The tires & wheels were checked with a computerized diagnostic system. I'm not sure it it was "RoadForce." The Service center is billed as state of the art for what its worth. Its a real AAA car care center - not just a private garage endorsed by AAA, so I believe its on teh level w/ top quality gear.

    2 transmission mounts were replaced (not motor mounts) The diagnostic report i received from the techs did not mention a problem with rust around the bushings, however It is worth investigating.

    The tire rods & bushings are all new as well.
  • I have two issues; don't know if they're related.

    2003 Buick LeSabre Custom
    93000 miles

    1. I have a grinding or moaning sound in the front end, when driving about 30-50 mph. Even a slight turn to the right, stops the sound. Outside this speed range, the noise is greatly reduced or gone. Two people suggested it is likely a CV joint/axel. I was thinking it might be a wheel hub.

    2. I get lots of vibration when braking. Pads and rotors were changed out a little over a year ago, and rotors don’t look worn down.

    What do you think? Thanks in advance for your help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    >Pads and rotors were changed out a little over a year ago, and rotors don’t look worn down.

    Fronts?
    Rears?

    The moaning could be wheel bearing. If you turn left on a curve, the sound should get stronger, rougher, louder. Then you turn right on a curve, and the load is taken off that right wheel, and the noise is almost gone. My second bearing, a replacement, gave those same symptoms a few weeks back. No play in bearing for wobble nor any in and out play.

    GM's spec on in-out play is .05 inch. That's not the wobble that most people like to test, it's straight in and out.
  • Sorry; front rotors were changed a little over a year ago. None of the four look worn down.

    I jacked up the front, and had very little wobble on both sides, but no discernible in-out play.

    Here are some pictures I took, showing how greasy the left (driver) side is. The right side is free of grease and oil. Maybe this is an indication of something.
  • Well, I guess the pictures didn't load, even though they showed up in the preview. Anyway, the left side is quite greasy throughout the whole axle area, both on the axle, and on surrounding components.

    I'll try the pictures again.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    Pictures have to be hosted on another website, such as photobucket.com. Then you link to it there with the address given by photobucket.com with your picture.

    You paste that address into the post here, select the whole thing, and click on the IMG button in the row of buttons down below the post composing box.
  • Yep, that's what I did the first two times. The pics showed up in the preview, but not in the final posts. Ended up just posting the links.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    It's hard to place where that is and what's above it for me. My thoughts are that the material looks gooey, not just oil leaking from the seal there? If it were, it would be fresher and liquid in appearance.

    The coolant can leak from the bypass pipes for the heater on the side with the water pump. That coolant mixed with oil seeping down from the valve covers which can develope seeps may be mixing to give that gooey look.

    You also can have oil coming from the oil pressure sensor above the oil filter. Some have trouble with that giving a 130 lb. reading as it fails and some get a seep through the plastic part of the unit.

    You need to wipe everything clean and start over watching where the material comes from. Usually it's gravity bringing it from higher up.

    I've read that there's a leak detection powder to spray on the area and then the new oil tracking down shows up really well. And there's an ultraviolet additive for the oil and with a cheap LED ultraviolet light, you can see where the new oil is coming from.
  • soonerdewsoonerdew Posts: 22
    edited October 2013
    Getting ready to replace the rear shocks on my '04 Lesabre, and after doing some reading ordered the Monroe MA822 Max-Air shocks. The job looks relatively simple (even for a DIY such as yours truly), but I've read some conflicting info regarding whether my Lesabre has a threaded or clamp-on air hose connector for the air leveling system, and thus whether I need an adapter kit on hand before I start the job. My initial interpretation is that I *won't* need any adapter, but I'm just not sure. Can someone advise?

    Figured I'd ask here before I get started and find out I'm short an essential part :)

    Thanks in advance.

    -dew
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    Just wiggle to loosen the old clampon plastic is what I had to do.

    Also, do not let the left wheel drop completely. The rod for the height adjuster is on the suspension part; letting the arm fall free when taking the shock off overextends the sensor that it connects to.
  • Thank you, sir! That's great info and you essentially predicted my next question - whether I needed to support the wheel independently.

    Thanks again!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    If I recall, I took off the tire and then supported the arm with a large block of wood. I lowered the car jack to take some tension off the top and bottom of the shock.

    I recall something about the nuts used on the old shocks. They corroded to the bolt of something. I had to replace one of them with a corrosion plated
    bolt from the local hardware store.
  • Perfect notion on the wood block support. Job is getting simpler as I read this :)

    Re the bolts...as I was researching this project, definitely saw some cautionary info on the risk for breaking some of the bolts, and that it was a good idea to have a handful of M8x1.25 bolts on hand just in case.
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