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Buick LeSabre Steering/Suspension



  • I have the 2005 Buick lesabre that had the vibration at 65-70 MPH. I tried every thing that I could think of to stop the problem. The dealership said they could not find any thing wrong. We changed the tires to the Michelin Harmony had the force tested and nothing help. Them a mechanic suggested to change the front struts and rear shocks’. This took care of the variation. I have over a 100k on the car. I did not try this until it had 90k. I would have gladly paid the money for the ride it now has.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    What shocks and struts did you put on? Brand and model? How do you like the ride compared to the original? My car has 90K and I'm beginning to think about replacements in 20-30K
  • you may have a bad tie rod or just be out of have to get a 4wheel, wheel alignment .
  • I sorry I have not got back with you sooner. I replace Front and Rear shocks and struts with Monroe. I have not had the vibration since. The car has over 120K .
    I tried have Mich. Harmony tires new rotor, Every kind of wheel balance possible. I drove this car for 3 years no one could find the problem. I spoke with a BIG old tire store they suggested the shocks and struts. Now it drive like a buck lesarbre. :)
  • I have a 97 Buick LeSabre and the vibration issue has returned again but under the same certain scenario. The previous time 2007 it began shaking after driving down out of the Colorado mountains after many miles of braking...result was new rotors and brakes. Now after driving out of the mountains of north arizona the vibration has returned.
    Do you think the strut replacement is the better move this time? It almost feels like the car is too heavy...strut sympton?
  • My Service Engine Soon Light is on. I had my nephew (mechanic) check for the code and it is EBP P0496, he tells me that the gas tank is going to have to be dropped (he can not do this job). He told me to take the car to the dealership and get the job done. How much is this going to cost me? Does anyone know?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    >he tells me that the gas tank is going to have to be dropped (he can not do this job).

    You need to diagnose first. An engine code is just the symptom. What is causing a problem. I don't know what P0496 is indicating that is a gas tank problem. It means "flow during nonpurge." I take that to mean a leak in a hose, a gas cap that's not on tight or is not sealing, or a purge valve that's not working right.

    First I'd get a better opinion than your nephew if he thinks the gas tank has to be dropped on an 05 Buick leSabre to service the pump and sender unit. The access cover is in the trunk; remove the carpet and you'll see it.

    Second, the charcoal cannister is underneath the rear of the car. I don't recall just where. I'd start with that. I'd do a visual check of hoses. Then I'd see if the purge valve is operating properly which may require a computer or Tech II to operate to see if it's working. I recall some people needing a replacement purge valve on some cars.

    I suspect you'd save money by taking it to someone who can check what's happening with their computer. Do not throw parts at it.
  • Just got the tires rotated on my 95 LeSabre. now the car has a noticible pull to the left. Driving around 25mph, i need to keep the wheel about 3 degrees off axis to the right to keep going straight.

    I haven't hit any potholes recently, alignement was fine at the last checkup (August). Tie-rods, rack, etc less than 1 year old....

    Could this be caused by uneven wear on my treads? If so what is the soultion? Will the wear pattern even out eventually, or do I need new tires?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    edited November 2010
    Try an alignment. Could be a bad tire with a belt problem.

    If you actually want to chase the problem, switch the two fronts left and right and see if the pull moves. That tire should have been on the the opposite rear tire if the rotation was done right. A bad belt wouldn't be noticed until it was on the front again.
  • Long term problem with the forward suspension. At highway speeds 65-75mph, the front end vibrates as if its out of alignment. So far I have had the following work done:
    - Tires new & balanced
    - Suspension aligned
    - Transaxle & CV joints - new
    - Front shocks - new
    - Motor mounts - new

    My mechanic (AAA Service center) informed that because the car is so old, it will take a while (10k) miles for the new parts to sync up with the old frame. The vibration will therefore continue until the parts sync up. :mad:

    Any advice/comments would be appreciated.

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    edited July 2012
    Bushings on the A-arm?

    Have the tires and wheels been checked with a RoadForce balancer? That will show up belt problems and quality problems in the tire and wheel.


    Tire rod ends, inner AND outer?

    Mounts (4? or 6?) holding the engine cradle to the front of the unibody? On several Bonnevilles I've read about problems with rust around the rubber bushings--I don't recall just how it occurred. Search for engine cradle or stub frame bushing?
  • Thanks for the quick reply,

    The tires & wheels were checked with a computerized diagnostic system. I'm not sure it it was "RoadForce." The Service center is billed as state of the art for what its worth. Its a real AAA car care center - not just a private garage endorsed by AAA, so I believe its on teh level w/ top quality gear.

    2 transmission mounts were replaced (not motor mounts) The diagnostic report i received from the techs did not mention a problem with rust around the bushings, however It is worth investigating.

    The tire rods & bushings are all new as well.
  • I have two issues; don't know if they're related.

    2003 Buick LeSabre Custom
    93000 miles

    1. I have a grinding or moaning sound in the front end, when driving about 30-50 mph. Even a slight turn to the right, stops the sound. Outside this speed range, the noise is greatly reduced or gone. Two people suggested it is likely a CV joint/axel. I was thinking it might be a wheel hub.

    2. I get lots of vibration when braking. Pads and rotors were changed out a little over a year ago, and rotors don’t look worn down.

    What do you think? Thanks in advance for your help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    >Pads and rotors were changed out a little over a year ago, and rotors don’t look worn down.


    The moaning could be wheel bearing. If you turn left on a curve, the sound should get stronger, rougher, louder. Then you turn right on a curve, and the load is taken off that right wheel, and the noise is almost gone. My second bearing, a replacement, gave those same symptoms a few weeks back. No play in bearing for wobble nor any in and out play.

    GM's spec on in-out play is .05 inch. That's not the wobble that most people like to test, it's straight in and out.
  • Sorry; front rotors were changed a little over a year ago. None of the four look worn down.

    I jacked up the front, and had very little wobble on both sides, but no discernible in-out play.

    Here are some pictures I took, showing how greasy the left (driver) side is. The right side is free of grease and oil. Maybe this is an indication of something.
  • Well, I guess the pictures didn't load, even though they showed up in the preview. Anyway, the left side is quite greasy throughout the whole axle area, both on the axle, and on surrounding components.

    I'll try the pictures again.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    Pictures have to be hosted on another website, such as Then you link to it there with the address given by with your picture.

    You paste that address into the post here, select the whole thing, and click on the IMG button in the row of buttons down below the post composing box.
  • Yep, that's what I did the first two times. The pics showed up in the preview, but not in the final posts. Ended up just posting the links.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    It's hard to place where that is and what's above it for me. My thoughts are that the material looks gooey, not just oil leaking from the seal there? If it were, it would be fresher and liquid in appearance.

    The coolant can leak from the bypass pipes for the heater on the side with the water pump. That coolant mixed with oil seeping down from the valve covers which can develope seeps may be mixing to give that gooey look.

    You also can have oil coming from the oil pressure sensor above the oil filter. Some have trouble with that giving a 130 lb. reading as it fails and some get a seep through the plastic part of the unit.

    You need to wipe everything clean and start over watching where the material comes from. Usually it's gravity bringing it from higher up.

    I've read that there's a leak detection powder to spray on the area and then the new oil tracking down shows up really well. And there's an ultraviolet additive for the oil and with a cheap LED ultraviolet light, you can see where the new oil is coming from.
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