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Buick LeSabre: Problem Codes/TSBs/Recalls



  • my 94 Buick Lesabre custom Ac/Heater Fan will not work I got a new Fan Control switch it still does not work. What can the problem be????
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,049
    Is it electronic dual control automatic system?

    could be blower motor--connect a direct wire from the battery positive post (with a fuse in it) to check. If it doesn't work take the ground wire and connect it directly to the negative post of the battery also.

    could be the BCM, blower control module, which is the power transistor unit that varies the speed. Follow the wires from the blower motor to the BCM which is under the relay center with all the fuses and relays if I recall the layout correctly.

    If it's a manual control system it could be the blower motor.
    Or it could be the resistor pack for the lower speeds is blown. But then it would work on high speed only because high speed uses a separate relay in the relay center to provide power directly because of the high amperage.
  • I'm not sure. we took the whole inside control out and took it apart and replaced the fan control switch. all the lights light up on the control except the fan control. The mechanic got a whole unit from the junk yard that unit ran the fan but nothing else worked on that. So it's strange I dont know what the problem is . The blower fan works.
  • I assume with this error code I have a bad 02 sensor. I can find the one back by the cat. converter, but isn't there another one somewhere?
  • 1998 Buick Lesabre with the 3.8, 77,500 miles. I’m coming up with the code P0300.

    Need help! I have a (new to me) 1998 Buick Lesabre with the 3.8, 77,500 miles. I’m coming up with the code P0300 which is multi-cylinder misfire. My mechanic came up with it being # 1 & # 4 cylinders. At this time I’ll mention that the code get’s picked up at about 2700 RPM. The engine runs smooth and no noises.
    We’ve done some of the obvious; Changed plugs and wires. Change out the coil pack. Ran Sea Foam into vacuum at throttle body. Cleaned and shifted around injectors.
    I’m at a lost, any suggestions out there?
  • pkutzpkutz Posts: 6
    I have a '98 LeSabre with 110K on it. Currently it's idoling and running rough most of the time. For some reason it randomly decides to run better occasionally. Can't tell any set of occurrences that make it run better - doesn't seem to be temp related.

    Check engine light is on. I had it scanned and it came back with these two error codes:

    P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure [MAP] Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
    P0201 - Injector 1 Control Circuit

    My thoughts are that either one of the two parts in question is causing all the problems or some other underlying third problem is causing them. Maybe an intake manifold gasket or other vacuum leak?

    Any thoughts on what the most likely culprit is?

    Thanks much!
  • I have the "Check Engine" light staying on. I had it scanned and it came up with the MAP sensor. I check the voltage from the positive terminal of the harness connector to ground and it reads 11.5 Volts. Should this voltage be closer to 4-6 volts like it says in the 1995 Buick Service Manual or did they increase the voltage on the 1998 model?
    If it should be 4-6 volts does anyone have an idea of what might be the problem?
    Does it mean that the PCM is bad and needs to be replaced?

  • i have a 95 buick lasabre. was running fine ecxept wene we drove it it just lost all power a few times. you could hear fuel pump kick in, it rolled over but had to do this several times before it started agian. change fuel filter, plugs, wires, and ecm computer. now its not fireing on 2 cylinders. went to junk yard bought a ignition module still not firing on same 2 cylinders. can you give me suggions on what im not seeing here. oh i had boesch plugs went back and put ac delco in still no change
  • magm66magm66 Posts: 1
    I have the very same problem. I have changed, TPS, MAP, MAF, EGR, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, wires, plenum, lower intake gaskets, PCV, coils. My ignition module was checked at Autozone and turned OK. Compression reads 195, 190, 190, 190, 190, 200. I wonder if I may have a broken valve spring or faulty knock, crank, or cam sensor,
    Did you find the problem on yours?
  • I have a 2002 buick lesabre and am tring to get it inspected but for some reason when it is hook up to the obd2 it reads that my o2 senser, o2 sensers htr, Evap, catalyst all say "not ready" why is this. It will not pass inspection enless it can read and I no there is nothing wrong with the vehicle (even the mech said that) please help me before I get a ticket thank you
  • Bought it 8 months ago with 79000 miles. Now I have 92000 on it. Runs GREAT! One day I was stuck in traffic for about 30 minutes. Car shut off. I let it set for about 8 minutes. Started back up. Drove it about 3 blocks to a spot where I could park it. Let it set for 3 hours. Started it back up and drove it home, which is a 23 minute drive. Replaced the fan motor. Car still runs great. Now there is a knock or some sort of loud sound. When the car starts up, you hear it. It is consistent, not erratic. When I drive with the windows down and the radio off, I hear nothing at all. When I sit in park and press gently on the gas, the sound goes away. Do you have a list of things we may want to check, because i sure hope it is not a thrown rod!
  • Has the OBDII drive procedure been followed?
    Pull a copy from the web & give it a try FIRST.
    Note: this tends to be typical if there has been a battery related situation (dead, replaced, etc..)
  • I have a 99 Buick LaSabre that is driving me crazy. A few weeks ago I went out to buy school clothes and my car wouldn't start. After about 4 tries I got it to start but it was jerking and shut off. I finally got it started and took it to a Tires Plus shop. They told me it was the fuel pump, I changed that and they charged me 429. The next day I had the same problem. I called them back and they said bring it back in. I took it in and they kept it for 4 days, they finally called and said that they weren't sure what it was and they would replace the fuel pump under the warranty but I needed to replace the sensor that went along with it. That was another 110. I had the car 2 days and guess what??? THE SAME DANG PROBLEM! At this point im frustrated. I called and again they told me to bring it in.

    I took it in for a third time and like a dummy told them that someone said it could be a map sensor. And guess what magically that was the problem. I was charged another 117, now im broke my car is still doing the same thing and I feel I have been wronged. When I try and start it it hesitates most times, sometimes it will try and cut off right after taking off and sometimes it runs fine. I dont know what to do and I was wondering if anyone has had this problem or can give me any suggestions?
  • My ck engine light comes on and my car quite while running. Just dies and I have to restart it.

    I checked the code and It does not give one.

    What could the problem be that the code light keeps coming on and no code?

  • I have in the last 2 months replaced a map sensor,injectors, fuel pump, plugs and wires,serpentine belt and battery. Now the security light is coming on. I wait 3 minutes and it goes off and then I can start the car...usually. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 tries at 3 minute intervals and it starts. Now its coming on and going off while driving. I just spent another $25 on a new key and its still doing it. I 've read that you can remove the VATS bypass module. I live in a small town and dont need the security anti theft anyways. Where is that located on a 3.8 engine? I also heard you can bypass it. Which is easier and cheaper? My car use to be so reliable and I have a very active daughter and need to be able to start the car without any worries of being stuck...Any help would so be gratefull... :confuse:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,049
    edited September 2010
    The security system requires two contacts in the key cylinder to touch the sides of the key, and two fine wires run down the steering column to the connector near the base of the steering column.

    The contacts wear and don't make contact.
    The key gets dirty.
    The wires break strands where the steering column bends with the tilt adjustment and that changes the resistance of the strands; that means your wires may break completely sooner rather than later.

    Here is a link. Just search for VATS and you'll find a plethora of solutions.

    You find the orange tube that looks like a wire that has two fine wires inside. Note where it plugs in. Cut it with extra wire away from the connector. Solder in the resistor pack you built after measuring resistance with a meter to see which of 15 you have.

    Note that you connect the new resistors to the wires going to the connector--not the wires going up to the steering column.

    Car alarm places get premade resistors in packs for the 15 GM values. They are used to bypassing to let their alarms do the work. That might be an alternative if you don't like lying on your back to get to this stuff.

    There also is access through the glovebox after you take it out. The theft deterrent module is over there that the wires go to. You can cut the proper two wires there and insert your resistor pack. The resistance has to be with 5-10% of the original values.
  • piggpigg Posts: 4
    can happen any time hot or cold. no codes in the system. can happen when comeing to a stop or at 55mph. at parkway speeds. if i move the shifter to nuetral, turn the key to start position starst right back up. had fuel pressure gauge on it, am not looseing fuel pressure.any ideas would be welcome. poss speed pick up.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,049
    Good job on having used a gauge to verify the fuel pressure wasn't dropping.

    Since it starts right back up, that's a problem. It would be better if it had to sit for 10 minutes before something changed and it started. You could pull a spark plug wire off and lay it on metal with an old spark plug in it to see if you were getting spark.

    How many miles on the car?

    How's the battery? Any chance it's the connections or the cables at the battery? For a time a few people had battery posts that would lose contact, like they were broken inside. And the cables corrode with corrosion between the separate contacts on the positive.

    If you take off the cables to clean, first put the heater in OFF if you have the automatic control system. Then remove cables.

    A remote guess is the crankshaft position sensor under the edge of the harmonic balancer.
  • piggpigg Posts: 4
    the car has a new battery. the car sat for about 2 years. the cables have almost no voltage drop. .02 to be exact.i am a volvo tech for over 28 years. but not use to gm . thanks for any help. if i can you with any volvo issues contact me.also on the parkway the oil light will come on first when the stalls, sometimes the car will restart itself depending on speed. thats how fast this can happen. the cars has 18850 miles on it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,049
    Do you have access to a scanner to use while it's running to follow the input for the fuel injectors and the ignition?

    It could be a few cars have had trouble with ground on the end of the ISC under the coils. Clean contacts.

    But the other thing that comes to my mind is that 1994 and 1995 seem to have a few more reports than typical of PCM problems. You might clean contacts at the PCM or replace it with a junkyard piece or just switch from another leSabre, if a friend has a similar one, to see if that fixes it.

    Just from listening to Bonneville and leSabre (and a few Olds) people with the problems in other forums, I'd guess PCM. The odd thing, if your sense of the timing for the oil light to come on so quickly is right, is that the engine is not dying and the oil pressure dropping causes the light to turn on after the revs drop. Instead, it's being reset by a complete drop in voltage or the PCM.

    It might be worth running a long line to the positive terminal for power away from the battery and using a meter inside the car to watch for voltage drop at the time the problem happens. I'd suggest using a ground out on the motor or on the computer box area. That might catch if you're losing B+ or ground at the PCM.
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