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Buick LeSabre General Care & Maintenance

2

Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    DexCool is not gritty in any way and extends life of water pump. It chemically is great for the aluminum in the engine.

    I ahve heard people on another board discuss a product (Walmart has it I believe they said) that is says it's universally mixable with others, green and Dexcool. It'll say on the label. But your choice should be to flush and drain and get most of the stuff out and put in one new chemical.

    DexCool took lots of grief for the seals leaking around some motor sizes on their intake manifolds and the throttle bodies where coolant is sent up through to keep them from icing. There was a problem with the chemical makeup of early seals, years ago, and those seals were changed. DexCool also formed a brown sludge if air was left in the system. I was told certain designs of radiators for filling, Ford had one e.g., were hard to fill and get all the air out. Those seemed to have trouble after years of running hot with the DexCool breaking down.

    Also adding green stuff to it or using anything like a tester that had a little green stuff in it contaminated the Dexcool causing a sludging to form. I think DexCool gets blamed for problems the owner helped cause by not changing it every two years like regular antifreeze and not watching when it began to look gunky in the overflow and radiator cap area and getting the old stuff out of there.

    I don't know what the knock sensor looks like. It has an electrical wire to it. Myself I avoided trying that just used the lower radiator hose at the radiator. Drain, fill with water, run, drain, fill ...

    The thermostat air bleed is the little brass screw on top of the round hemispherical housing at the end of the upper radiator hose on the right of the picture.

    image

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  • tdc1tdc1 Posts: 11
    Thanks again - very helpful!

    I ended up getting the universal stuff at WalMart, supposedly Dex-Cool compatible. They had four brands all with the same composition and all claiming they could be mixed with anything. Including Prestone, so I'll assume it's legit. And I'll try to flush very thoroughly.

    Thanks for the photo of the thermostat screw -- very obvious once the plastic cover was popped.

    Now... just as soon as things cool down a bit more...
  • bugzbugz Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2000 BUICK LESABRE AND JUST TODAY I RAN OUT OF GAS WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY...(MY GAS NEEDLE DOES NOT WORK)...AND WHEN I FINNALY PUT SOME GAS IN I NOTICED MY ENGINE LIGHT TURNED ON...ANY BODY KNOW WHY?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    Got to one of the local stores, Autozone, Advanced Auto-my favorite, or other and ask them to read the codes for you and turn off the light.

    Do not buy any parts or replace anything. See what the codes mean as symptoms, not an indicator of exact parts bad. I suspect it will be related to the pollution checks on the parts for pollution control, p0442. It probably will turn itself off after a while if the store won't turn it off for you.

    Is the gas cap seal good. Put petroleum jelly on it on the cap and check that the plastic part on the filler is in good shape and clean. The most common problem is the tank doesn't seal tight enough for the vacuum check the car does occasionally to look for leaks.

    The algorithm for checks is tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full (your gauge doesn't work thought). Then the car is restarted when the coolant temp is between two temps (130 and 170 guessing my recall numbers). And the system will check for leaks. I've had a couple and on restart the light turns off.

    Your 2000 has an access cover under the mat in the front of the trunk to get to the fuel pump and the fuel level gauge.

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  • bridge222bridge222 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Buick LeSabre which has the following problem:

    In the morning when the engine is cold the car idle races exceptionally high and the odometer and speedometer do not work. After about 10 miles of driving, when the engine warms up, the idle returns to normal and the odometer and speedometer works again. I do not know how these two could be related and I can't get to the bottom of this problem in order to solve it.

    Thanks, Barry
  • zone2zone2 Posts: 1
    Does anyone have any idea where to get info on light bulbs in steering wheel for 03 Lesabre with radio controls and cruise.Half of the right side is out.Cannot find any info in owners manual....??????
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    The light bulbs appear to be a special bulb that used to be available aftermarket. But the problem is the switch and bulb are wired together. Replacement meant soldering. Also The switch is tricky to remove but can be by using paper clips and working the entire swtich up and out The leads are very short. I've read this in a Pontiac group.

    I've not been able to be certain the bulbs are available nor have I had the nerve to try inching the switch out myself.

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  • rlrufusrlrufus Posts: 4
    I have a 1995 Lesabre with 202,000 miles. The car runs fine but I've noticed that after about an hour of driving the oil pressure gauge pegs itself. If I let off the gas it will come back to normal untill I have to touch the gas peddle the it pegs the gauge again. Can anyone help me.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    It is most likely the sending unit. The oil pressure needs to be checked with a gauge that's screwed in to replace the sending unit. These do fail. Don't buy the cheap one; some of those are poorly made.

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  • clifterclifter Posts: 1
    code says voltage to low replaced sensor same problem car wont idle
  • Greetings - Last week I bought a very well preserved 1992 LeSabre with 116K. It looks great and drives beautifully. One thing I noticed is that at very low speed when making an "all the way" hard right (parking, etc.) I briefly (1/2 second or less) get a power steering hum and what feels like in the steering wheel, a slight jiggle. Happens pretty consistently especially on a bumpy surface but only at very very low speed and never during road driving. Anything to be concerned about??

    I love this car!
  • This is getting a little weird... Today it did the little hum and jiggle thing and this time it made the steering wheel a little "off" i.e. I had to keep the wheel more than slightly to the left to go straight - even in a flat parking lot. When I did a hard right again and it did the hum & jiggle thing again, the steering wheel went back to normal. Now it rolls straight again when the steering wheel is centered. Any idea what this could be?? Tie rods? Something loose in the power steering mechanism? Will my wheels fall off? Doesn't seem to be any play in the steering... Help!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    I am not an expert, but for my own diagnosis I'd get it up on a rack or jack up both wheels with jackstands. Move the car wheels to see if they are free to turn back and forth.-- no binding ball joints or tie rod ends. Take a close look at everything.

    I'd suspect a steering rack problem. But it also could be a rubber bearing mount for the struts at the top that's not right. I had a fairly new leSabre that had one replaced under warranty> It would give a thump when it let go when it had bound up some> you could turn the steeering wheels with the motor running with the car on the ground on gravel or grass where the tires turn easier and feel the binding let go by holding your fingers on the coil spring>

    You also could have a slipping belt on the power steering if it"s really worn> or you could have a power steering pump problem> have you checked the fluid level?

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  • Thanks for the insight. I've had the car 1 week now. PS fluid level is fine with no evidence of leaking. I now notice a faint rocky-rumbling sound that is more pronounced when idling - similar to the sound I heard in the weeks before the water pump blew on my old Pontiac 6000. Water pump and alternator were recently replaced on this car so it might be the power steering pump starting to go?

    Never drove a Buick before. Now I know what the "Buick Ride" is all about. Would like to think I'm too young for this car but I love it anyway.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    You can use a long socket wrench and move the idler pulley enough to remove the serpentine belt. Then spin, push, pull, twist, the pulleys for all of the accessories just to see.

    At 16 years without knowing what climate the car is in (extra hot?), my wild guess from reading forums and people's problems and what they turned out to be would be the harmonic balancer on the end of the crankshaft at the bottom of the motor. The thing is two parts with rubber between them. The rubber deteriorates and the two parts eventually can knock against each other, metal to metal, giving a knock most prominent at idle when the motor is going slow when the speed up and down with piston pulses are most obvious.

    While you have the belt off, you might check to see if there's play between the inner and outer parts of the harmonic balancer

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  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 28
    I have to install a brake proportioning valve on my 1997 buick lasabre limited. Since I have never installed one, I was told when I put the new part on that the brake system has to be flushed, how do I do this flushing of the brake lines? The new part costs about 65.00 at the dealer(dealer part only) go figure
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    Whoa.

    Why do you believe you need to replace that part? Did a mechanic tell you it was bad? Are you having a problem with the brakes?

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  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 28
    well I had the car in the shop for a different reason and the mechanic said the part was leaking. This valve is under the left rear and is apparently leaking, I have looked up pics for this part they called the brake proportioning valve and yet to find one that looks like this part. I just found out that they said this is leaking and when i wipe it and run the car and recheck, it looks to be leaking somewhat, I haven't tightened it yet to see if this shifty mechanic maybe loosened it cause this is the same jerk that said my valve covers were leaking which are not!! and also they said my intake gasket was leaking and it is not!!! so im going to see today when my wife gets home with the car if I can tighten this part up and if I can see if it leaks again once I do that. Do you have a pic of this part for a 1997 buick lasabre limited?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    pressure metering valve, all models, 1992-1999, $27 GMpartsdirect.com is what it sounds like.

    Sounds like the parts I got on mine when I had to replace the fuel pump and associated lines due to a leak. When I got under the car after having the work done, there were two clean pieces, about 4 inches long, cylindrical, tapered at one end if I recall, and about 2.5 inches diameter. There is one in each brake line.
    I suspect the place replaced them because they disconnected the brakes lines and new ones padded the repair bill. It may be the old ones rusted and were not reusable.

    I won't be going back to the place doing the work. I'll junk the car if I don't have another shop to work on it instead of returning to that shop.

    I suspect you would be better off seeing if another good shop can tighten it for you unless you have the right wrenches. I first would diagnose that pushing on the brake causes brake fluid to come out at the connection rather than nearby on the rusted line or through the wall of the valve. I would be afraid of distorting the rusted line or a bad connection unless you have the wrenches for tubing that spread the pressure.

    Some H-body cars of that age have developed leaks in brake lines due to rust from salt in Ohio and north. Depends on the car.

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  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 28
    Thankyou for your information. I wont be taking my car back to these jerks and this is a well known business so I might make a complaint with the company for trying to fix things that werent even broke or needed to be fixed...Thankyou for the info
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