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Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems



  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    Thanks Imadoz, I forgot to includethe year in my second post it's a 97 and only 4 relays are present, but now that I am armed I can change them out with some spares that I do have, I can't thank you enough as I am retired and don't have much cash, stay well..Bob 252.
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    Hi All, I have a code P1651, which was read from my Inova 3100 reader, the code in the book suggests it to be a relay, the car is a 97 Olds LSS, I also looked at some other sites to find what this code is and found other info that is or is not correct, the statement there was PSP input malfuncton, of course the engine light is on. I have replaced the relays and this did not correct the problem, so where do I go from here? Thanks Bob.
  • I think I have a similar problem in a 2002 Buick Century. Starts and idles fine but will not rev. Have changed numerous parts including the computer and have run diagnostics which did not give any codes. I am now suspecting that it is in limp mode. Do you have any suggestions?
  • Your car and mine are on the same platform/engine if you have the 3800..Check your battery connections..the posts in particular. I have just changed the MAF sensor,throttle sensor ,harmonic balancer,battery.. And unfortunately the check engine light remains on...and there are no codes when it is scannned
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    Hi All, this whole problem with my car just appeared, and while changing the relays, which was not the problem at all, as a "P" code is permanent, I found one of those rubber "T's" that was split in half, I replaced it and also from the GM dealer, guess what? everything including my Overdive problem went away. By the way all of the Big Olds Buick and Pontiac cars only use the 3.8 engine.and anyone who owns one that has properly been maintained will tell you of the great fuel mileage and the over 200,000 miles they will return to you for yur investment, and that part was $3.33 + tax amazing isin't it.
  • My mother-in-laws 1995 Buick Regal's battery dies after it has sat for a few days. The battery is fairly new and once the car gets started, the battery charges and alll is fine until the car sits again. I think there is a small load on the battery when the car os off. I can put an ampmeter on the battery and pull fuses to see when the (assumed) load disapears. I was just wondering if someone knows of a problem like this which is common to these cars.
  • rayznrayzn Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Buick Lesabre. I just tried to start my car and it acted like it was out of gas so I got 2 gallons of gas and put it in there. Now my car occasionally will start but shuts off almost instantly after. I recently hit a tire on the interstate it beat on my undercarriage pretty badly. I have been hearing a noise like a bang on the back of my trunk, like someone is closing a door right by my car while driving and sometimes right after I shut off my car. Any ideas or what other info might be needed?
  • rayznrayzn Posts: 3
    Well after all that it was as simple as the inline fuel filter figured i would post incase others have this problem. Thanks for the help everyone...
  • ma56ma56 Posts: 2
    i have a 2002 buick lesabre also had same symtoms ,car was took to auto zone and checked on scanner, they said it was the mass air flow sensor, put new one on but no change.i then started to study my own repair manual and come up with the crankshaft sensor,changed that ,fixed the problem , hope this helps.
  • How tough was it to replace the crank sensor? Was a wheel puller the only special tool required?


  • ma56ma56 Posts: 2
    sorry to say problem has returned after a few days,so car is still not fixed so still looking.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    >GM's been building these 3.8's they'de have them refined by now. As much as I hate to say it, at least the Japanese usually fix a problem when they find one.

    You must mean like the sludge problems in V6s that toyota denied for years and finally gave it?

    You must mean like the continuing sage of transmission problems in Hondas? Now their Odysseys are throwing transmissions left and right due to underdesign?

    You must mean like the inadequate rear brakes on some Hondas and I believe toyotas that wore out in short mileages?

    You must mean like the drive-by-wire accelerator problems, the floor mat problems, and an unknown possible third electronic control problem that gives toyotas a ride-of-your-life acceleration? That toyota hid from the public and from the NHSTA for years starting in 2002 by misrepresenting the categories of reports and by using friends at NHSTA?

    Do you mean those companies? And I haven't talked about Nissan and others.

    Let's not pretend GM/C/F are the only companies who have things go bad.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    Better to diagnose the MAF by removing the connector and seeing if the engine runs better without it.

    Has the EGR ever been removed, cleaned so it doesn't stick open slightly, and put back on. it requires some brushing inside to get around where the grit can affect the sliding pintel going into the top part of the motor. Don't get solvent into the upper part.

    Don't know if you've done it, but spray carb cleaner all around vacuum hoses and around the base of the upper intake manifold looking for spots where the manifold may be warping and allowing a seep of air under it affecting the ability of the IAC to control the mixture. Same for the throttle body gasket.
  • jeremy1982jeremy1982 Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
  • seemonkey08seemonkey08 Posts: 2
    edited March 2011
    I have a '93 lesabre, with about 100,000 miles on it. About 9 months ago it was having problems when going slow speeds, in town driving and at red lights the engine would die. Put it in park and start it up again and it would be fine. It didn't happen very often maybe once a week. But we replaced the TPS. After that it worked well for several months, but after awhile I began to notice on highway driving it would sometimes rev really high and sometimes the RPM meter would go crazy without me hearing any difference in the motor. It would also sometimes rev really high as soon as I put it in park. Then three days ago it stalled just like it had been doing before at a red light. Same as before started back up and was fine. I called my dad (he'd fixed it before) and he said he'd look at it this weekend. The next day I was out driving again and it did the same thing, but this time it would start back up and rev really high then die almost immediately. I managed to get it to a parking lot and there it sits. It will not move anymore. It does start, but almost always within 2 seconds it's dead again. Occasionally it would stay running for a minute or so, but within that time pressing the gas has no effect on the RPMs they go up and down a few times before it's dead again. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    edited March 2011
    I would check the rubber hoses in the engine compartment for dry rot and leaking air into the engine. IF it's getting too much it's like having the throttle already opened some and the rev speeds up. That would fit with it not reacting to your accelerator movements.

    Check the underside of hoses, little and big, especially nearer the engine and the high heat.

    Also try disconnecting the MAF sensor wires and start the car. They can cause stalling and poor running--but I don't recall high idling as a symptom.

    An EGR valve can stick slightly open and a car runs rough and tries to compensate for the extra air it's getting through the EGR. Tapping on the EGR usually lets it slide closed if it's stuck open.

    The crankshaft position sensor causes stalling. But high idling would not be a symptom.
  • Thanks. I'll check these things.
  • cljahnkecljahnke Posts: 1
    Hey slightlines!
    I have a very similar problem! Did you ever figure out what the culprit was?
  • This helps a lot. I'll be driving along from a cold start and I would hear this "click click" type of sound coming from the rear. It's a hollow sound like a turn signal sounds. After the clicking sound the engine would drop in RPMs and either catch itself from stalling or stall. I would turn the engine off and restart and things would be OK. Problem also is that it stalls while cruising down the road. I put the tranny in neutral and restart the engine. Of course, the power steering is disabled.
  • mecaleemecalee Posts: 1
    car normally starts fine when its cold every morning. sometimes i hear a hesistation i figured it was in need of a starter. but never got around to it cause it always started. Yesterday i caminto work. it started fine car sat all day then when leaving work it hesitated about 3times but started. i thought it sounded funny turned it of and then it cliked a few times but wuldnt turn over then then it clicked once and wouldnt turn over all lights came on radio comes on. its at themechanics now. we went and got a new starter. he said he putin the starter it would sart fine but after a few times it started doing the hesitation thing again. so hes taking it back to the starter back to do a swap out. the car only has 70,00 miles on it. when i bought it it had 66,00 miles in it. ive taken 3hour trips in this car with no issues. runs great. my fear is that there may be more than just the starter wrong with it. that there may be other issues ive read through a lot of te other posts in this forum and when i ge the car later today i will listen to the fulepump and see if the lights dim and just watch out for the car if this issue continues even with a new starter then what should my next step be? i will try the leave it in the on position for 10 seconds before turning all the way and see if that make a diffeerence. i am not close to any pure fuel stations the closest one is about 198 miles away.. so that is not an option...
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