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Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

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  • recently i just bought a 93 buick lesabre and it has94,000 miles. I am having problems with it starting. and the check engine light comes on, and sometimes by putting it in nuetral will get it to start, but that doesnt always work. also by pushing it, then turning the ignition on it will start but not always. Also it will stop while i am driving it usually it will start right back up but not always. weve already had the fuel tank censor changed, and the fuel lines changed and theres still a problem.
    ive read online about alot of cars with the same problem but i cant find a solution.
    My husbands mom used to own another 93 lesabre also and has the same problems. any help would be appreciated
  • Have your mechanic test the computer. That's what was our ultimate problem, and because it was so intermittent, it mimicked other stuff. But make sure that they can return it if that isn't the problem. It's around 300 to replace. There was another part (see my post for what they looked at) that was bad, so it was the combination of the two.

    Best of luck, Clifford has gone to live with a new family, so I don't have him anymore.
  • My Buick 1994, 179,000I was having the same problems it would start and you might get out some where the wont start I have tried the ignition switch 50 time then would start. Ma by start good for a few day then same problem. I was told to have new key made so at $21.45 it took care of the starting problem.

    I have heater problems. always have it will blow cold air then after while warm hot air then go right back to cold. I in stiled new thermostat cleaned out heater core and same problems. The fan works fine. I am about fed up with it see or trade.
  • I have a 97 Buick LeSabre Custom that I bought a couple of months ago. It needed a new engine, and I had one installed shortly afterwards, new oil put in, the whole nine yards. It's been running fine up until a couple of days ago. Suddenly it started knocking and cutting off, the engine light won't go out, I bought new plugs and had them installed but the engine light still won't go out! What else could be wrong with my car? I checked the oil, and it has oil, it has water, so those are not the problem. Please help!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,040
    Do you have the automatic digital readout temperature control? It might be an actuator that's got a cracked gear on the heater box; the actuators are electric motors with gears that move the vanes inside the heater. They crack. Often it occurs when someone replaces a battery and disconnects the power for a while without turn the heater OFF while the key is ON so it "parks."

    How is your coolant level inside the radiator? My first guess would be an air bubble in the heater core. If the radiator is staying completely full... when the car is completely hot after driving a long time, run the motor up to 2500 for 10 seconds in neutral, repeat 4 more times. That is supposed to push air out of the heater.

    Also, sometimes people get an air bubble into the radiator so to fill completely, have someone run the motor at above idle while the cap is off and you'll see the level drop. When that happens fill the radiator full and put the cap back on. Then they can slow the motor back down.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,040
    >It needed a new engine,

    Go back to where you bought it. It must have had a warranty since it was new.

    My thought would be a sensor or something major has happened because of the knocking. If it's a spark knock that might be sensor; otherwise, it's a problem. It needs to be diagnosed and just putting parts on hoping is going to be expensive.
  • rginscrginsc Posts: 1
    Help….I have a 2002 Buick LeSabre Custom with a 3.8 engine. After you have driven the car for a while and you stop and then try and start the car again it will not start. The lights come on but it will not turn over. If you let the car sit for about two hours the car will start. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    My first guess is a faulty starter relay or starter solenoid.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,040
    Check connections from battery to starter. I always tighten them to move them to make sure the corrosion is broken between contacts. Tighten the little contacts on the solenoid on the starter. Check the ground on the floor pan under the rear seat and tighten it.

    Another check is to use something like a light hammer or heavy screwdriver to tap the starter housing when it doesn't start. Sometimes this causes the solenoid contact to make connection through the damage or sticking. It verifies the starter is the problem. I got a rebuilt from a local AC/Delco rebuilder. I felt much better with that than getting a rebuilt from the competitive box stores where cheapest cost is best for them.

    The neighbor helping me with my older Buick even used a battery charger/jumper unit and directly connected to the post on the starter to verify that it wouldn't turn.
  • cfd110cfd110 Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 lesabre 6cyl. Car will start but when you drop it into gear it dies and won't start for awhile. Any idea what it could be? It will turn over but not catch.
  • cfd110cfd110 Posts: 3
    My 1991 will start, warm it up try to put it in gear and car dies. Then it will turn over but won't start. Any ideas as to what the problem is?3800 v6 engine
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    One possibility is that the solenoid that handles the transmission lockup is jammed.
  • Hi,
    I have an 02 Buick LeSabre Custom, 3.8l. with 65,000mi.,and not showing a code. The problem I'm having is once it gets up to operating temperature it has a tendency to stall. It will start again but cranks a few seconds and sometimes you have to feather the pedal to get it started. It starts right up when cold. Once in a while if turn the wheel all the way when backing out of the driveway it stalls, but that's when cold.
    If someone out there can help I'd appreciate it cause it's only getting worse.
    TY
  • 17thabn17thabn Posts: 10
    Check or replace fuel pressure regulator,then go to crankshaft positioning sensor,then the cam shaft sensor.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,040
    I would start with the fuel pump. It would be nice to drive it with a fuel pressure gauge connected and lying against the windshield so you can see the pressure. If it drops when the car gets ready to stall, it's your fuel pump. It's kind of young for a fuel pump; has it been driven lots with low fuel which is rumored to let the pumps run hotter?

    When it dies, turn the key off and on for a couple of seconds and listen to the sound of the pump. Repeat a couple of times to build up pressure. See if it start faster. The feathering could be fuel pressure. Also could be MAF sensor -- I believe I recall one person having that symptom. You can disconnect the MAF sensor. It also can be removed for cleaning--don't touch the wires buried inside the plastic. Just spray with MAF cleaner or use an artist's brush to dust them. Lots of MAFs have same part number; so if you have another GM with same part, you can switch the two for a while and see if the symptom moves.

    The fellow who lives next to me inherited his father's Monte Carlo. It has 65K on a 95 and fuel pump went out. It was his second car and he always kept a minimum of fuel in it.
  • My car cranks and then stops. It even cuts off while I'm driving whereas I throw it in neutral and crank it back up and will run, but here's the glitch:
    1. We took it to AutoZone and was told it could either be the vacuum line or the oxygen sensor. We fixed that problem.

    2. We tuned it up, new oil, new filter and everything, but it's still doing the same thing.

    3. We then told one technician at O'Reilly's what was going on and he said it might be the ignition coil. What is that, and what does it cost to fix?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,040
    Don't throw parts at the problem based on a counter person's ideas at a parts store. While they have lots of parts experience, they sell them; they don't diagnose. How many miles? What's been done to it?

    It can be crankshaft position sensor.

    It can be fuel pump. Try checking fuel pressure with a gauge while driving it. Some lose pressure as they heat up when running and cut out due to pressure dropping.

    It can be the ignition module that's under the coils. It's doubtful it's just one of the 3 coils; you'd have rough running when one isn't working up to par. You can try disconnecting the power cables to it and reconnecting them. If it stays off long enough, you can pull a spark plug wire and have a spare plug ready to put in it and lay on metal part of motor while someone cranks to see if you get a nice blue spark. Or just lay the plug wire there--it should give a good loud spark.

    It can be a vacuum line that has rotted or cracked. Check them all very carefully around the upper intake manifold. You can spray carburetor cleaner around the manifold and the vacuum lines while the motor is running. If there's a leak, when it sucks in the carb cleaner, the idle will change. Voila, you found a leak.
  • Thanks for the idea's. Took the vacuum hose off the FPR, there was fuel all over. Put the one my brother bought for his Monte Carlo and the Buick run fine.
    You think for as many years GM's been building these 3.8's they'de have them refined by now. As much as I hate to say it, at least the Japanese usually fix a problem when they find one.
    TY's Again
  • It had almost 147K miles on it, before a new engine was installed 2 months ago, so the mileage is not on the motor. The car was running beautifully up until about 2 weeks ago, when it started doing these weird things.
  • 17thabn17thabn Posts: 10
    Glad I could help,the fpr's are the cheap ones GM put on them to get em out the
    door,they don't last long at all.The fuel pumps usually go out around 80,000 miles.
    Then the crankcase sensor!
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