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Forester Interior & Passenger Comfort Questions



  • puffin29puffin29 Posts: 2
    Hi ..
    Yep, the rear hatch started sticking this winter. At first I thought it was that something was wedged against the door..a piece of paper or something or other. But then it happened again and I thought maybe frozen water droplets or something. The third time it happened I was at a loss for why. Must be a glitch. Of course it opened for him! But at least it was on the SECOND try, lol.

    Oh, my Forester is a 2003.
  • puffin29puffin29 Posts: 2

    I am trying to locate all the accessories that come with the Forester by going to all the sites I can find. I even looked in my booklet but couldn't find what I was looking for. Maybe someone in here can help me.
    I have that handy wheel "bucket" that fits into the spare so you can use it for whatever. I also have this metal gadget that is one piece but one part of it moves. It is round at one end but indented like a really shallow cone. It's more flat than indented and it has a stem. On the stem is this piece that moves. I know this isn't much to go on but I never paid much attention to it until it was taken yesterday from some n'er do well employee where I took my car yesterday to get a new tire. I want to call the place tomorrow but I don't know what to call this piece. I always thought it had something to do with the tire (small jack?). Anyone know?
    Thanks in advance
  • baydrivebaydrive Posts: 48
    Is the automatic gear shift on the console supposed to be illuminated? I have a 2005 Forester and I don't know if I am going nuts or not. I have had the car for over a year and last night when I got into the car the lights on the console were not illuminated (PRD123 that show you where your lever is at that is located on the console... the dashboard indicator is fine). All my other interior illumination is on. Now I don't even know if the shift console was ever illuminated. Seems that it must have been or should be. Can anyone tell me what might be wrong (if the shift console is indeed illuminated) and if I can fix it myself or need to bring it to the dealership. I looked up the diagram for the fuses and there is just one listed for interior illumination. Since all other lights are on then I can assume that the fuse is fine. Thanks for any help.
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 216
    from what I remember, they are illuminated. I was surprised that when changing the shifter, the selected position is not highlighted on the console only displayed on the dash.
  • pretzelbpretzelb Posts: 64
    I've only had my 2.5x for a week now but I'm a bit confused and concerned over the A/C. We've had a mild week here in Texas and I started to notice that I was getting warm in the car even though the A/C was going and it was only around 80f outside. Since it's not uncommon for us to hit the upper 90s for weeks on end I'm a little worried. The A/C does appear to be blowing very cold air but it's almost like there aren't enough vents to keep up.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    the Forester's ac is more than able to meet any requirements here in hot central CA (100+ common).

    For faster initial cool-down, crack the 4 windows and turn the recirc mode on. Of course, there are the fan adjustments, position adjustments, and make sure the temp dial is all the way down.

    Tinting the windows also helps as there is a lot of glass.

  • boogie1boogie1 Posts: 6
    Does anybody have a problem with the lumbar support? I zipped open the back of the drivers seat and I can see a steel rod and a piece of plastic. This is the lumbar support. I have an awful pain in my back from that steel rod!!!
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    not sure which seat model you have...

    2003 XS versions had a handle flip on the shift selector side of the seat back.

    You can also change the bottom seat height on some models, which affects where the lumbar hits your back.

  • wcw43wcw43 Posts: 1
    Hi--YES! YES! --
    I had the exact same problem -- 2003 Forester rear door electric lock occasionally would not unlock, but it was completely unpredictable. My wife nearly went crazy not knowing if her groceries, furniture, animals would be locked in or out. Desperate, I found this forum on an Internet search--and realized I was NOT alone. Thank you one and all... You gave me the strength to call my dealer who predictably said "maybe $100, maybe $500 to fix it, but it probably just needs lubrication."

    I seized the next Saturday morning --when the rear door actually DID unlock properly-- and I kept the door open, took off the inside trim panel so I could see the lock, and then took out the lock mechanism while still attached to wires and cable...and observed how it worked WHEN WORKING RIGHT. Both the electrical locking/unlocking and the physical operation from the external door handle were perfectly normal. Oh, well....

    So I applied WD-40 to the lock parts, removed the cable linkage and squirted it full of WD-40, PUT THE LOCK BACK ON, CLOSED THE DOOR, AND--OF COURSE---NOW IT WOULDN'T UNLOCK !!!
    But NOW I was sure the problem must be on the OUTSIDE and fairly quickly I FOUND IT! HERE IS THE SOLUTION:

    The external latch handle (the little horizontal flap your fingers squeeze when you open the rear door) was NOT QUITE FULLY RETURNING to its retracted position. This was due to some corrosion at the upper (hidden) corners of the flap, where it PIVOTS AND RUBS against the door. I PUSHED the little flap backward into its fully retracted position and it moved back about 1/4 inch. Suddenly the lock now worked fine. I applied more WD-40 on the FLAP PIVOT AREAS and VOILA! Flap now returned to correct position every time, and the electrical unlock mechanism worked fine once again.

    Long story short, the sticky flap meant the cable link to the lock mechanism did not retract fully--missing by about 1/4 of an inch. This meant one little part of the lock mechanism was staying in an open position, which prevented the lock motor from pushing on the part that unlocks the latch....As the dealer said--all it needed was a little lubrication. MORE USEFUL INFORMATION: there is a virtually unreachable little Lock-Unlock Lever located on one end of the lock mechanism inside the door-- a dealer knows how to get to it through a covered hole on the inside panel. But this lever doesn't work when the above simple retraction problem exists with the outside handle. MORE USEFUL INFORMATION: The inside trim panel goes back onto the rear door much more easily if the door is just sit inside the back, close the door, and pop the panel onto the door. I give Subaru an A-plus on the trim panel and a D-minus for lack of any keyed entry to the passenger side and the rear door. Still love the car.
  • jwfbeanjwfbean Posts: 5


    My wife and I just completed a great long road trip through California and Oregon in our 2005 Forester. We had a great time except for one thing: After sitting for a long period of time in the forester's driver's or passenger's seat, my wife's sciatic nerve starts really bothering her. It got so bad, she had to sit on frozen peas to finish the trip! She is a runner and that's what's causing the problem, but we've also noticed now that just about all of our long trips in the Forester give this kind of discomfort.

    We've done long road trips in our other car, a 1997 Honda Civic, with no problems. There is something about the bucket seats in the Forester that don't literally don't sit well with her.

    Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how have you remedied it? What kind of adjustments should we be making with the seats? Can we replace the seats with something more comfortable? Or should we just sell the Forester and get something with better seats?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would look for a seat pad of some sort, one which you could use only when you know you'll be on long trips.

    I have a co-worker with hemorrhoids issues and he uses a pad even for his office chair. So I know they make 'em.

  • jwfbeanjwfbean Posts: 5
    We actually stopped along our trip and picked up an ergonomic seat pad. It didn't help. Any other ideas?
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    you might try adjusting the seat angle. The '03 drivers seat angle is adjusted by the height feature. Not sure what the current seats have.

  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    Forester seats are usually a pain in the a$$ on long trips. If you have the heated seats, the heating metal plates stick out towards the back of the seat bottom - you can usually feel them if you press your hands along the bottom close to where it meets the back piece. That's probably what's causing most of the discomfort.

    Either get a pad, or ask the dealer to do something about this - they can sometimes reposition the heating plates or add padding to the seat under the upholstery.
  • jwfbeanjwfbean Posts: 5
    Actually the seats are not heated. It's just a vanilla Forester. However, they are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], for sure.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    My only other idea would be to consult with a local upholstery shop. Usually any place that installs leather can also custom-modify your seat, maybe add heating elements while you're at it.

    Turbos crave octane, I would not starve them of the stuff. As gas prices go up, the premium for premium as a % of your total fuel costs actually gets smaller. It's only about 6.67% extra cost at $3 per gallon when premium is 20 cents more, or $150 per year or so.

  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    As gas prices go up, the premium for premium as a % of your total fuel costs actually gets smaller

    Hey that's my argument! :P Actually though, I've noticed a disturbng trend recently around here where the price of premium at some stations is now 26 cents more than regular. Let's hope that pricing model doesn't catch on :(

  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    Price of regular went up 6 cents here today to $2.95. But Premium is at $3.35, a 40 cent leap!


    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Around here it's pretty consistently 20 cents between the two. Like I said, 6.something %.

  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,017
    Hmmm, Sneakers posted and didn't plug the Subaru Crew chat tonight. The shock of filling up the tank will do that to you I guess.

    Differential in Boise is still .20 between regular and high test.

    Steve, Host
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