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Buick LaCrosse Heating / Cooling Problems

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Comments

  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    No, not normal, but what mode do you have it set at?
    Which model of Lacrosse, that is does it have dual air?
    Do you have the defog button depressed?
    You'd think the compressor would be tied to the light on the button, but some foreign models used that method and the owners may broken the button trieing to shut it off when they had it in defog or defrost mode which automatically calls for the pump to be on.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,055
    doug2011,
    Have you spoke with your dealer about your concerns? If not, I would recommend doing so. Please keep me updated on your situation, and feel free to email me directly.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • Okay, some of what you guys are saying is completely sounding somewhat like what we are having issues with. We have had the air conditioning reset, we have had the "brain" to the electrical system replaced. . we are out of options. What happens is if you have air conditioning on it will completely stop blowing at set fan rate and will barely blow. Even if you take it off of auto and put it onto manual, there is no air flow. Anyone having this problem? Sometimes if you pull over and turn car off, it may solve it, but not every time. We are so over this car. :mad:
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    edited July 2011
    I'm beginning to believe it was built in HELL!
    What you are describing sounds as if the problem has to be in the electronics, the interior stuff.
    With complaints of horrible smells entering vehicle in recirculate, a dealer did the door check. That is the divertor doors inside the system to blow to various areas and blend temperatures. He told me he thought the recirculate door was not fully closing. And that they installed an update. None of it helped.
    I don't know what the update was for, but I got a hint that it might be because some had icing of evaporator and that was said to be occurring in recirculate.
    I think GM got their thinking crossed. I live in a humid climate and want moisture removed as much as possible most of the year. If the vehicle cooled to the point fan slowed enough, icing could occur on evaporator under some conditions. With orifice tube systems, that usually indicated an improper charge or malfunction of cycling switch. But this system uses an expansion valve which is controlled by the temp at the evaporator. The only time I've seen icing on a system that used an expansion valve is when the system was low on freon, or very infrequently, a defective expansion valve.
    In our vehicles, expansion valve is better because they are more efficient and you will see better cooling when vehicle is first started. You won't have to wait for pressures to build and stabilize as in R-134 systems using orifice tube.
    When you put in manual, do you mean that you manually crank fan speed up. You should see indication on display? Does the air temperature from outlets change?
    So you have to reboot the whole darned car. I've found that with some other items, such as navigation system.
    The computer system on these vehicles needs updating very much so. It needs to be able to record these anomalies that are intermittant so the dealer does not think we are crazy.
    And in the back of my mind lingers that issue that was known to burn up, ie damage electronic components. It was because of missing diodes that were to block voltage/current spikes from the system. That was a 96 Olds Aurora, yet 09 Malibu had same missing parts and exact same fix. Does our 2011 Lacrosse have it too?
    Those spikes will look for the weakest component in the system seeking a path to ground. It can punch a hole in the junction barrier of that semi-conductor. If it is big enough, instant death. If it is small, it can last a long time, but it might be of the right size that it shows up regularly and removing power allows it to heal for a short time. The most common way of troubleshooting such a device is to heat it with a hair dryer, tip of soldering iron, etc. Or spraying them with freon to cool them and then they might start working. Also, if it worked on AC power, a variable transformer could be used to change input voltage over the acceptable range.
    Gee, writing this reminded me of what I saw when the first battery went dead. Display was showing voltage at 18 volts. That is pretty high for a 12 volt system and believe it is never supposed to go above about 14.6V.
    I'll be glad to follow on any reply.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    The recirculate is controlled automatically in the fully automatic position. It will open and close as needed (if working properly). The short duration of WOT, no compressor, will put it in recirculate if it was not previously. This is for all cooling settings and an effort to maintain constant temperature. Fan speed may also increase for a short duration.
    It might be nice if there was some indication of what is actually happening when in auto recirculate. Otherwise you will have to use one of the two manual settings of flow through or recirculate.
  • the car blows heat but when it is colder than 40 degrees outside the defrost wont work vent floor works just no defrost ? summer time defrost works in fact defrost only works when you dont need it
  • I am not an expert so take this as just as thought option: maybe your defrost never works. When it is warmer outside, the defrost is using the outside air temp which is enough to do the job. Here is my story: I too have a '05 LaCrosse. My defrost stopped working. Turns out, I had overfilled the battery cells and unbeknownst to me, the acid boiled out a little bit, trickled down the side of the battery, dripped onto the vaccum hose under the battery, ate through the hose. This vacuum hose just happened to control the defrost cycle. New section of vacuum hose fixed the problem. So maybe your vacuum hose is bad somewhere along the line.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    Judging by the diagrams and parts, your HVAC box is controlled by electric actuators. No vacuum diaphragms used.
    Parts #3, 5, and 21 in the diagram are electric actuators. #5 looks like the one that controls the mode valve to change the path of air flow.

    You are going to need to take off the underdash plastic hush panel, if there is one, and watch the actuators while you change the settings on the dash controls for temperature, direction of air flow, and whether air in brought in from the cowl or recycled. Those are the three valves. I've been told the valves have a white portion in the moving parts, such as nylon, that makes it easy to see if they are moving.

    You may have a mode valve that is binding up when the actuator tries to move it, and it not going to the defrost position.

    The defrost position should be the default if the electric power were to fail in the heater circuit for the safety.

    http://genmotorinfo.com/images/09/0406282W09-031.png

    http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?Make=Buick&Model=LaCros- se&Year=2005&MakeCode=B&ModelCode=W&CatalogCode=4W1&eCode=L26&majorIndexID=09&mi- norIndexID=2W09-031&SortKey=2
  • 2013 Lacrosse. Hotter than hell in car. Radio works. Heater buttons, heated seat buttons, heated steering wheel button, fan speed, temp. None of these buttons work. What is going on? But heat coming on defroster. No buttons lit up. I think heat even comes out vents.
  • My heat was fine Sunday night. Didn't drive Monday and on Tuesday when I went to start the car it was dead. A few clicks and lights the first time, then nothing on the second try. AAA came out and looked at my battery. It turns out the corrosion wasn't cleaned properly when the battery was installed last year, nor were the cables tightened all the way. The starter and alternator are a-ok. He jumped the battery and I drove a bit to charge it and things have been fine on that front ever since. But, my heat is no longer working. The air blows, but it's ice cold. Temperature gauge reads it's normal level. The car was dead to the point of the clock resetting to 12:00. I had my blend door actuator replaced in September because all I could get was heat. Any insight as to what is going on? Thanks--Jessie
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