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Lincoln LS Steering and Suspension



  • christo1christo1 Posts: 3
    My 2000 LS V6 Sport.. purchased at 90K. Front end clunking started at around 100K. When it is winter the clunking is noticably worse (temperature).

    Reading through this site, I assumed it was the sway bar thing. I went to the local Lincoln dealer.. they don't sell the old bushings anymore. They sell the new problem solver swaybar with bushings for $150 and the labor to do the job is $550. So a $700 dollar fix.

    I said bah. I found the new problem solver sway bar online for $100 plus $20 shipping. I am somewhat of a mechanic. To do this job, one must remove the front subframe (pain), there are some other little retarded design quirks to deal with, but they present themselves obviously.

    The new problem solver sway bar has wider bushings and brackets plus the bushings are crimped by the bracket much more throughly. I truly believe this new bar to be a real permanent problem solver.

    This new bar/bushings fixed the clunking I used to hear, and it is like driving a 'new' car now.

    The old factory bushings I removed were somewhat chewed up with little black chunks flaking off as I removed them. There were lube holding spaces fabricated into the old bushings and all were bone dry.

    This sway bar job was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] (weekend). Just know that merely replacing the old bushings with new ..old ones will be dramatically easier, but the problem will come back.
  • Christo-could you tell me how to do the deal?? I tried to replace the bar yesterday. I couldn't get the bar out thru the wheel well as the book instructs, and had no hope of getting the new bar with brackets and bushings in. I think the shop manual leaves out a few steps-removing the motor control arms, etc.--I'm not sure what. How/what did you have to do to get it out/in? Thanks. I did put on new links, which seems to have solved most of my clunking problem, but I don't like failing at trying to fix something, so I'd like to force the bar in there.

    BTW, I'm a long time lurker on the LS boards since I bought my manual in Oct 00. I don't get on em much anymore, but its nice to see old names (heyjewel, akirby, cdnpinhead and others) I recall that I always enjoyed reading are still around. The car's been pretty good-only in the shop once since warranty expired for a coil pack. I'll miss the LS.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    Hello Christo, Ralph;

    Yes, I'd love to hear more about the fix as my 80K manual LS has been clunking for a while. I ws able to buy the old style bushings but have yet to attempt to put them in.

    If I could get the new bar, I might ask my mechanic to install it. I'm not convinced I have the moxie to attempt a job like that.

    How many miles on your 00 manual, Ralph?
  • Jeyhoe-- 109K and counting--though its an 01.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    Ah. Mine is an 01 manual as well. 83K. Not one red cent for out of warrantee repairs except for tires, brakes and oil. Oh, and the bushings. Oh, and the stinking plastic "chrome" lug nuts. Dont get me started on my HVAC system.
    Overall, the car has been a real winner. I'd give it an 8 out of 10 for durability (points off for HVAC and front sway bar and lug nuts) an 8 out of 10 for performance (points off for 210 hp V6, man the new 3.5 litre would be nice under my hood) and an 8 out of 10 for overall style (points off for interior could have been a bit nicer. Exterior is a real sleeper beauty.)
    Last, Id give Lincoln (Ford) about a 3 out of 10 for quality of service, level of customer care and support and support for the vehicle itself (IOW, they let it rot.)
  • christo1christo1 Posts: 3
    Here is goes:

    Remove both front wheels, drop the passenger side shock and spring assy by unbolting the 3 bolts at the top of the shock tower, remove bolts from both driver and passenger side lower control arms as they are attached to the steel front crossmember, then remove the steel crossmember. Take the sway bar out from the passenger side (the lowering of the spring/shock assy on this side was to provide enough working room to enable this). Watch out for the lower radiator hose assy.. don't bash it getting the sway bar in/out.

    Installation is reverse of removal. (Ahahaha, slap me.)

    Make marks for all the positions of the suspension pieces you are removing, in the hope of retaining the suspension alignment you had before the job. It seems like I was able to keep my alignment roughly the same as before. I should take it ddown to the tire shop and have the front end realigned though.

    I recommend a saturday to remove the bar and a sunday to replace it. Take it slow. This job is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], as components are packaged tightly/stupidly around the swaybar.

    I didn't do the new links.. they (in the end) had nothing to do with the squeeky/clunking I used to experience. In fact; when I almost had the old bar out, I moved it up and down... and there was that familiar sound of the bar squeeking/clunking against the torched stock sway bar bushings/brackets.

    In retrospect, if I were able to obtain just the new bushings.. I would recommend just doing the bushings. The job would be ALOT easier, BUT they would eventually fail again.

  • i have a 2002 ls and lately i been heaqring a clunking noise over rough roads and as of yeaterday a loud creeking noise thats seems 2 be coming from the passenger side suspension it happens when i brake and accelerate its a f**king headache any1 kno what it could be??? :mad: :sick:

    and if it is the stabalizer bar where can i get the new one?
  • ras2007ras2007 Posts: 1
    2000, V6...Took my car in for a rattle...I was told front and rear sway bars needed to be replaced as well as front knuckle mounts and lower ball joints...the estimate was $1800 dollars!!! Am I wrong or is that an outrageous quote? Also they would not give me an itemized estimate so I could see what each part and labor were going to cost me. does anyone know about how much the two sway bar kits cost? Have been looking and dealership is giving me the run around.
  • dc_rhoadsdc_rhoads Posts: 1
    I have 2000 LS V8 etc.
    155,000 + miles.
    5000 mine. I'm having a blast with it.
    Unfortunately, when I changed all four struts, the lower ball joints are bad.

    The ball joints are not supposes to move up and down 1/2" or more.
    They are only supposed to pivot.
    Somehow this does not seem to affect the drivability.
    Sooner or latter it will fail.
    I do not want to be anywhere near when this happens.

    There is a recall on loose nuts, but this car was not on the recall list.

    The problem is, not how to fix them, but Lincoln only sells the whole knuckle and not just the lower ball end.
    A major dollar difference.

    The design is a simple pressed ball joint.
    I can not see any part number for the ball joint.
    $200 plus dollars each knuckle.

    Dammed them Design Engineers, Oops I are one.

    Ps. I can find no aftermarket replacements.
    I also remember reading in one of the messages that someone lost the whole wheel assembly. This would be my first thought about the cause.

    Just something you all may need to know.

    DC Rhoads
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,717
    Thanks for letting us know about this. My LS hit 114K miles today & will have close to 120K on it by the time I get home from the trip I'm on. I bought it new, so I know there's been no abuse, but even so it's helpful to know what may be coming up.

    There is no doubt that maintainability was about 143rd on the list when the LS was designed. Assemblies are cheaper to design (pressed/welded/glued/riveted as opposed to bolted or screwed together) & stock as spares. They cost a fortune, but who (besides the poor sod who drives one past 100K miles) cares? Lots lease & those who buy often don't drive all that much.

    Good luck.
  • Does anyone know if the balljoint and hub assembly from a 2002 LS V8 is backwards compatible with a 2000 LS V8 Sport?

    Cheers, Ian
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    As far as I know, yes. The only difference in the sport and base models is the shocks and sway bars.
  • Thanks akirby; no design changes from 2000 to 2002?

    Cheers, Ian
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    I don't think so, but I'll ask around to be sure.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    Looks like they updated the lower ball joint in mid 2002 model year. If the 2002 has this updated 16mm lower ball joint then you'll also need the updated matching lower control arm as well.
  • isbv8isbv8 Posts: 5
    I guess I am lucky to have waited long enough. Ball joints are now available separately for the earliest LS's. I ordered a pair from a vendor on eBay for just under $100 - substantially less that the >$600 for complete assemblies! The manufacturer is HAMBURG-TECHNIC QUALITATSERSATZEILE The part number on the box is XR8 041 215J HT.NO.215J.

    Any tips on how to remove the assembly?

    Cheers, Ian
  • Removing the assembly is the easy part. Take off the wheel and brake components and you will see that the knuckle assembly is connected to the upper control arm and the lower control arm as well as the tie rod end. One thing to do first is remove the wiring harness that goes to the hub, be careful also that you do not lose the o-ring that goes inside the hub. Remove the knuckle assembly by removing the nuts from the upper and lower ball joints as well as the tie rod end. When you pull the assembly out you will have to drill out the rivets that hold the brake shield on and remove the hub from the knuckle by removing the four bolts. Now comes the hard part, to get the old ball joint out, you will need a shop press or know someone who has one. I would recommend taking the knuckle to a willing mechanic and have him remove and replace the old ball joints. Put everything back together in the same way you took it off. I replaced my ball joints with the same ones you did and they work great, just make sure that you tighten them and maybe even keep tools with you. Both sides loosened up on me after I installed them, but have had no problems ever since. Good luck!
  • ghoracekghoracek Posts: 3
    I have an 01 LS with 55000 miles and I was having the same problem. I changed the upper and lower ball joints on both sides and i didnt hear the noise anymore. I did the work myself so I didn't pay for labor but the lower ball joints costed about 360 a piece and te upper ball joints costed about 100 a piece. You have to buy the whole control arm the because the dealer told me I couldn't just replace the ball joints.
  • Did you buy the bushings from Ford? As you stated they're no longer available. Any suggestions?
  • a have a 2000 lincoln ls v8 and it rattles everytime i slow down and when i accelerate its does not rattle, just when i let go of the gas it starts to rattle does anyone know what the problem? my mechanic said its the front driveshaft(rubber joint) or could it be the lower ball joint, or the bushing?dont know
  • isbv8isbv8 Posts: 5
    That doesn't sound like the ball joints. Mine don't rattle when decelerating, just clunk when going over bumps. I would have thought that if they rattled, it would be both under acceleration and deceleration.

    I'm actually in the middle of changing them out currently. I'd like to add to the 'how to' description above that the hub assembly has to be 'slid' out. This is likely to be corroded in and need pressing out also.

    The new ball joints are slightly loose in the arms on mine, so it looks as if I'll need to sleeve the bores. The bores and ball joints appear to have a very fine thread, but mine just slide in.
  • isbv8isbv8 Posts: 5
    Update: I thought the ball joints were loose. Actually, I had failed to press the balljoint all the way in - the bore is slightly chamfered. A thorough cleaning of the top recessed area is necessary to ensure proper seating. Also, the balljoints I bought were slightly different in the O.D. as one was much tighter than the other in both bores. I used loctite retainer to be safe.
  • I know your original e-mail is over a year old, but I was wondering where you found bushings for the 200 LS. My mechanic states that I need to buy a complete sway bar from Ford because the bushings are part of the bar and are not replaceable. Something unique to this model?
  • Hello christo1, I hope you are still out there. I would like to buy an aftermarket sway bar with improved bushings for my 200 Linoln LS 6 cyl manual tranny but I can not find a match. I mostly want a third party to stick it to Ford, but I would also like poly bushings instead fo the lousy rubber Ford uses. Can you point me to the supplier you used? Regards, Glenn
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 971
    Try They have links to aftermarket LS suppliers, a technical section, and forums with folks with a lot of Lincoln and LS experience.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • 2001 LS V8. If you want to fix the rattle noise at the front end, that happens when you go over any kind of bumps on the road, then get the sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension. Go to and search part number 9.5171. I got the red once for $17.99 plus Shipping $18.40 (Canada), hence $36.39 in total. The labor that i paid a local tire store(The Tire Warehouse same as Kal-Tire) was $240.00 including tax, again Canadian. And the stupid a$$ noise is no longer present. The mechanic told me that the driver side took him under 30 minutes to do however the passenger side took him close to 2 hours, so in total a 2 and half hours of labor. I hope this helps who ever is suffering from the rattle noise in the front end. Now all i got to get fix is the long cranking, lol.
  • I have a 2000 Lincoln LS. My lower control arm for the rear driver side needs replacing. Where can I go to get the best deal on this part and possibly placement?
    i live in Atlanta.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    Get prices locally at a couple of dealers and then check with Team Ford of Las Vegas.
  • Thanks for posting this info; you have solved the front end rattle problem of all LS owners. I have been trying to locate this noise for years and now its fixed. I replaced the lower ball joints and struts and the noise/rattle was still the same. These cars did have lower ball joint problems and mine ended up being bad so it did not hurt to replace them, but they are not the cause of the rattle noise. I ordered the same sway bar bushings you listed from energy suspension parts; part # 9.5171 and they do fit and the noise is gone! Its strange because the old sway bar bushings will not even look bad. It's a #@$!* to change these bushings but it is the solution to the problem EVERYONE is having. Thanks again, I owe you a Christmas card!
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,717
    You're not a fully-initiated member of the '00-'02 LS club until you've replaced a set of sway bar bushings (or put in the new one-piece replacement bar) and a minimum of two window regulators. Extra credit is awarded for COPs, cooling system "issues" and hot air blowing from one or the other vents when the A/C is on, but first you've got to do the busings and regulators.

    Welcome aboard.

    I've done two of the regulators myself (one front, one rear) and had three (one front, two rear) fixed under warranty. Car's still running okay at 128K miles, but the cooling fan runs too fast.
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