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Lincoln LS Steering and Suspension



  • its un real how dealers and car makers (american especially) just get away with robbing people.....if this was a german car i guarantee those bushings would be replacable without having to replace the whole stabilizer bar. By the way. those anyone know of a bar towards the back of the engine bottom that could get loose and cause similar noise over bumps like the sway bar? is there such an animal?
  • Merry Chistmas to you to George!! And your lovely wife and kids!

    You can replace just the bushings, if you want. It's just that they will probably fail again, around the same mileage. I also have it on good authority (one of the Lincoln guys) that it really isn't a DIY job. Bruno did it a while ago and had all kinds of trouble. I'm just going to suck it up within the next couple of months and have mine done. Right now my bar is just squeaking horribly when it's cold out.
  • I own a 2000 LS with 80k and just a few days ago it started making a squeaky sound any time I made a left hand turn. The sound seems to be originating from the front left tire. My father, an old mechanic who refuses to fix my vehicles, says he thinks it make be the ball joints, which is very likely after having read about the recall information on these; however, I have also read all the posts about the bushings. Which of these two would have the loud squeaky sound as an indicator of something going wrong? AND what is the time frame that I have before serious damage is done?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    It's not the sway bar - that's a rattle, not a squeak. Doesn't sound like a ball joint to me, either, but I'm no expert. Jack up the front left and right and listen for the squeak while someone turns the wheel. Also try spinning the wheel at the same time. You should be able to find it.
  • Allen, my bushings squeak like crazy when it's cold. I tried spraying a lube on them, but that didn't work. I took a look and it appears the bar has shifted a little.

    The ball joints were never recalled. The only recall on the LS was to check the torque on the ball joint nut. My bet is the stabilizer bar bushings. I've been told it's a very tough do-it-yourself job.
  • heyjewelheyjewel Posts: 1,046
    "My bet is the stabilizer bar bushings. I've been told it's a very tough do-it-yourself job. "

    It's my understanding that replacing the bar itself is very very difficult DIY, but the bushings are doable with reasonable effort. Say akin to getting a chrome lug nut off.:>)
    Mike, are u saying the bushings are a horrible DIY job too?

  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    Allen, my bushings squeak like crazy when it's cold.

    Mine, too, but what does that have to do with the car?
  • That's what I hear. I've heard replacing the bushings will not cure the problem. The bushings will fail again and the only cure is to replace the bar. AllData shows 2.3 hours for the bar replacement, 1.2 for the bushings.

    :P :P :P
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,238
    and I (well, mostly him) replaced the bushings in my V6 LS a couple of years ago, and they're holding up fine (so far, knocking on wood).

    The parts were under $40 & came with lubricant spread on them -- fairly straightforward replacement. It was well worth the effort to make the thump disappear.

    Interesting to hear that FoMoCo is now unwilling to sell the bushings without the bar included, plus labour, of course.
  • jingles2jingles2 Posts: 11
    has any one tryed to replace front struts and springs?
  • christo1christo1 Posts: 3
    My 2000 LS V6 Sport.. purchased at 90K. Front end clunking started at around 100K. When it is winter the clunking is noticably worse (temperature).

    Reading through this site, I assumed it was the sway bar thing. I went to the local Lincoln dealer.. they don't sell the old bushings anymore. They sell the new problem solver swaybar with bushings for $150 and the labor to do the job is $550. So a $700 dollar fix.

    I said bah. I found the new problem solver sway bar online for $100 plus $20 shipping. I am somewhat of a mechanic. To do this job, one must remove the front subframe (pain), there are some other little retarded design quirks to deal with, but they present themselves obviously.

    The new problem solver sway bar has wider bushings and brackets plus the bushings are crimped by the bracket much more throughly. I truly believe this new bar to be a real permanent problem solver.

    This new bar/bushings fixed the clunking I used to hear, and it is like driving a 'new' car now.

    The old factory bushings I removed were somewhat chewed up with little black chunks flaking off as I removed them. There were lube holding spaces fabricated into the old bushings and all were bone dry.

    This sway bar job was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] (weekend). Just know that merely replacing the old bushings with new ..old ones will be dramatically easier, but the problem will come back.
  • Christo-could you tell me how to do the deal?? I tried to replace the bar yesterday. I couldn't get the bar out thru the wheel well as the book instructs, and had no hope of getting the new bar with brackets and bushings in. I think the shop manual leaves out a few steps-removing the motor control arms, etc.--I'm not sure what. How/what did you have to do to get it out/in? Thanks. I did put on new links, which seems to have solved most of my clunking problem, but I don't like failing at trying to fix something, so I'd like to force the bar in there.

    BTW, I'm a long time lurker on the LS boards since I bought my manual in Oct 00. I don't get on em much anymore, but its nice to see old names (heyjewel, akirby, cdnpinhead and others) I recall that I always enjoyed reading are still around. The car's been pretty good-only in the shop once since warranty expired for a coil pack. I'll miss the LS.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    Hello Christo, Ralph;

    Yes, I'd love to hear more about the fix as my 80K manual LS has been clunking for a while. I ws able to buy the old style bushings but have yet to attempt to put them in.

    If I could get the new bar, I might ask my mechanic to install it. I'm not convinced I have the moxie to attempt a job like that.

    How many miles on your 00 manual, Ralph?
  • Jeyhoe-- 109K and counting--though its an 01.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Posts: 490
    Ah. Mine is an 01 manual as well. 83K. Not one red cent for out of warrantee repairs except for tires, brakes and oil. Oh, and the bushings. Oh, and the stinking plastic "chrome" lug nuts. Dont get me started on my HVAC system.
    Overall, the car has been a real winner. I'd give it an 8 out of 10 for durability (points off for HVAC and front sway bar and lug nuts) an 8 out of 10 for performance (points off for 210 hp V6, man the new 3.5 litre would be nice under my hood) and an 8 out of 10 for overall style (points off for interior could have been a bit nicer. Exterior is a real sleeper beauty.)
    Last, Id give Lincoln (Ford) about a 3 out of 10 for quality of service, level of customer care and support and support for the vehicle itself (IOW, they let it rot.)
  • christo1christo1 Posts: 3
    Here is goes:

    Remove both front wheels, drop the passenger side shock and spring assy by unbolting the 3 bolts at the top of the shock tower, remove bolts from both driver and passenger side lower control arms as they are attached to the steel front crossmember, then remove the steel crossmember. Take the sway bar out from the passenger side (the lowering of the spring/shock assy on this side was to provide enough working room to enable this). Watch out for the lower radiator hose assy.. don't bash it getting the sway bar in/out.

    Installation is reverse of removal. (Ahahaha, slap me.)

    Make marks for all the positions of the suspension pieces you are removing, in the hope of retaining the suspension alignment you had before the job. It seems like I was able to keep my alignment roughly the same as before. I should take it ddown to the tire shop and have the front end realigned though.

    I recommend a saturday to remove the bar and a sunday to replace it. Take it slow. This job is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], as components are packaged tightly/stupidly around the swaybar.

    I didn't do the new links.. they (in the end) had nothing to do with the squeeky/clunking I used to experience. In fact; when I almost had the old bar out, I moved it up and down... and there was that familiar sound of the bar squeeking/clunking against the torched stock sway bar bushings/brackets.

    In retrospect, if I were able to obtain just the new bushings.. I would recommend just doing the bushings. The job would be ALOT easier, BUT they would eventually fail again.

  • i have a 2002 ls and lately i been heaqring a clunking noise over rough roads and as of yeaterday a loud creeking noise thats seems 2 be coming from the passenger side suspension it happens when i brake and accelerate its a f**king headache any1 kno what it could be??? :mad: :sick:

    and if it is the stabalizer bar where can i get the new one?
  • ras2007ras2007 Posts: 1
    2000, V6...Took my car in for a rattle...I was told front and rear sway bars needed to be replaced as well as front knuckle mounts and lower ball joints...the estimate was $1800 dollars!!! Am I wrong or is that an outrageous quote? Also they would not give me an itemized estimate so I could see what each part and labor were going to cost me. does anyone know about how much the two sway bar kits cost? Have been looking and dealership is giving me the run around.
  • dc_rhoadsdc_rhoads Posts: 1
    I have 2000 LS V8 etc.
    155,000 + miles.
    5000 mine. I'm having a blast with it.
    Unfortunately, when I changed all four struts, the lower ball joints are bad.

    The ball joints are not supposes to move up and down 1/2" or more.
    They are only supposed to pivot.
    Somehow this does not seem to affect the drivability.
    Sooner or latter it will fail.
    I do not want to be anywhere near when this happens.

    There is a recall on loose nuts, but this car was not on the recall list.

    The problem is, not how to fix them, but Lincoln only sells the whole knuckle and not just the lower ball end.
    A major dollar difference.

    The design is a simple pressed ball joint.
    I can not see any part number for the ball joint.
    $200 plus dollars each knuckle.

    Dammed them Design Engineers, Oops I are one.

    Ps. I can find no aftermarket replacements.
    I also remember reading in one of the messages that someone lost the whole wheel assembly. This would be my first thought about the cause.

    Just something you all may need to know.

    DC Rhoads
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,238
    Thanks for letting us know about this. My LS hit 114K miles today & will have close to 120K on it by the time I get home from the trip I'm on. I bought it new, so I know there's been no abuse, but even so it's helpful to know what may be coming up.

    There is no doubt that maintainability was about 143rd on the list when the LS was designed. Assemblies are cheaper to design (pressed/welded/glued/riveted as opposed to bolted or screwed together) & stock as spares. They cost a fortune, but who (besides the poor sod who drives one past 100K miles) cares? Lots lease & those who buy often don't drive all that much.

    Good luck.
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