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Lincoln LS Steering and Suspension



  • what did you have to do to fix the airbag wiring under the seat?
  • I know there was a recall on the front lower ball joints for improper torque, does anyone know the proper torque? Also I purchased lower ball joints separately from the knuckle, and one of my local machine shops can't press the old one out or the new one in. Any ideas. I'm going to another machine shop later to see if maybe they can. Has anyone had any luck pressing out the old ball joints and pressing in new ones?
  • Mommi,
    Just because the ball joint failed doesn't mean it was because the ball joint nut was loose! Ball joints fail everyday. A ball joint failure at 50-60,000 miles or more is not uncommon. If the telltale signs are ignored long enough, the failure can be catastrophic, as was your experience. If you were to provide the VIN, I could tell you when/where/mileage the recall was completed, provided your vehicle was included in the original recall.

    That's all I know for now...
  • Per the recall bulletin, the ball joint nut should be torqued to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).

    That's all I know for now...
  • Is a LS a good car to buy? I was thinking of buying a used 2000-01.Does it have air suspension or springs and struts? thanks
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    Springs and shocks. The 03-06 models are better. Expect to replace the COPs and possibly do a tranny repair (usually just replacing the valve body). They're great cars to drive and a great value.
  • J C Whitney has generic sway bar bushings they say will fit my 2001 LS. Has anyone changed any lately and do you have a " how to " to pass along. For $14 they sure are tempting and if they DO work what a savings.
  • Hello all... Looks like sway bar bushings are a common LS problem. I've recently had knuckles/ball joints replaced by a pro, but would like to tackle the bushings myself, if possible. Have the Lincoln service CD, and there seems to be a lot more to this than meets the eye (control arm/strut disassembly, etc.). I have the Energy Suspension bushings mentioned elsewhere in this forum, but I did not see how much was actually required to mount them. Do the old bushings slip off the end(s) of the bar, and the new ones go on the same way? Or does the whole bar have to come out to make it happen? (I hope not) I will be replacing the links as well, if that makes a difference. Do the new brackets bolt right in where the old ones came out? How much of the engine compartment and front end do I REALLY have to dismantle to do this job?

    Thanks for any help you can give. Like I said, I do have the Ford-issued SM disk, and have done a lot of work on the car myself, so I will try to be helpful and contribute here when I can.

    Guess I should've mentioned that mine is an '01 LS8 Sport with 87K...
  • azlsazls Posts: 4
    Dealer says that the steering 'rack' is leaking; however, no evidence of low fluids or fluids on garage floor. Steering is good, no noise, etc. Should I believe them?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    If it's not causing noticeable problems and you don't see fluid then I wouldn't worry about it right now at least. Could be a small leak leaving residue on the hoses.
  • azlsazls Posts: 4
    Since dealer estimate was $800 for the repair, I'll continue to monitor the situation. BTW, this is a '01 w/ about 76k miles. Thanks for your response.
  • QUOTE:
    -----------------------2001 LS V8. If you want to fix the rattle noise at the front end, that happens when you go over any kind of bumps on the road, then get the sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension. Go to Energy Suspension and search part number 9.5171. I got the red once for $17.99 plus Shipping $18.40 (Canada), hence $36.39 in total. The labor that i paid a local tire store(The Tire Warehouse same as Kal-Tire) was $240.00 including tax, again Canadian. And the stupid a$$ noise is no longer present. The mechanic told me that the driver side took him under 30 minutes to do however the passenger side took him close to 2 hours, so in total a 2 and half hours of labor. I hope this helps who ever is suffering from the rattle noise in the front end. Now all i got to get fix is the long cranking, lol.


    thanks for the tip it was exactly what I needed to reduce my wobble
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,622
    That only fixes the noise, not a wobble. If you have a wobble then it's probably the ball joint.
  • I believe this is what is wrong with my car. Bent spindle. spun it out the other night, car became stuck, had to be towed. I retrieved the car from the wrecker co. and discovered the steering was out of wack pulling hard to the right, steering wheel is vertical rather than horizontal (wheels straight), the right pass. side wheel looks toed in and something is making screechiing sounds almost constantly now, I imagine it's grooving the rotor. Does this sound like a bent spindle or possibly something else?? thank you for anhy help. Tracey.
  • as a quick fix, due to lack of money im wondering if a wheel spacer would help, it jujst sounds like something is not clearing, not sure, i've felt the inside of the tires and it doesnt feel like its rubbing, i might need to take the wheel off again, and i did hit a curb, it probably pushed everything towards the brake cal.,rotors etc..
  • tecillotecillo Posts: 5

    Stumbled upon your thread. i will be taking on the bushing job soon. I also do have the airbag light on. Do you mind letting me know how you fixed it in your case? thank you
  • dsaperndsapern Posts: 6
    It depends on the code that your car gives you. The code is determined by the number of times your air bag light flashes. Mine was a clockspring. I can't remember what code that was. I got the tutorial on-line on how to replace the clockspring, here is the shortcut It was quit easy though. Let me know if the code is for a clockspring and I will help out. I know that the Lincoln LS also has issues with wires being pinched under the driver side seat, but the first thing to do is get the codes.
  • tecillotecillo Posts: 5
    thanks, i seem to be having the common 32 code currently flashed. i would like to rule out the driver seat wiring before jumping into the clockspring. Any help would be appreciated.
  • dsaperndsapern Posts: 6
    I also totally ruled out the wiring under the seat first. The way in which I did that was to inspect each of the wires very closely. In order to do that you need to take the front seat completely out. I think the connector was yellow, but I may be wrong. Do a close inspection and if that all checks out good chances are it's the clockspring. The clockspring is a dealer item, and mine had it in stock. This usually means that they sell alot of them.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 892
    Clockspring is a common repair item in the LS. Airbag light on usually means clockspring.
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