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Lincoln LS General Care & Maintenance



  • couvcouv Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the wheel lug nut torque setting ? It's not in the owner's manual
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    100 ft/lbs. This is almost universal for Ford products in my experience.
  • natec06natec06 Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 lincoln LS and went to give it a tune up fuel filter, belts, and plugs. Well I was in for a surprise with the plugs. I'm pretty sure you have to take off the intake manifold to get 3 of the spark plugs, but i was just wondering if there was a slight chance that somebody would have a trick to get to them. If not about how long will it take me to strip the manifold? Also do i need to put a new manifold gasket?
  • ezaircon4jcezaircon4jc Posts: 793
    There is no trick. I've replaced the plugs on my V6 twice and I'm down to about 3 hours, start to finish. The upper intake manifold gasket is reusable. You will have to disassemble quite a bit to get to the passenger side. Get a good manual (or one of those service cds on ebay) and study it before you start. The job isn't really hard, but it is tedious.
  • nomolincnomolinc Posts: 2
    I live in New Jersey and basically went through the same thing here. I complained to the national headquarters in Dearborn, Michigan, and was blown off by them. They told me the dealer was an "independent" Lincoln dealer and they couldn't do anything about it. Basically, Ford/LM could care less and that's why local dealers will stick it to you. I'll never buy another Ford product. Good luck with the AG.
  • tauruztauruz Posts: 4
    I had my 2000 LS,V6 in for the 100,000 MI tuneup. They replaced plugs,intake manifold gaskets,flushed cooling system,replaced transmission fluids,replaced filters including AC cabin filter,tire rotation and associated labor. According to the techs,the intake manifold gaskets leaked and that caused problems with emission control readings. $900 sounds like a stiff bill but I have no other comparison....any comments?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    What exactly do you expect Ford to do about it? State automotive franchise laws protect the dealers and there's nothing Ford or any other automaker can do about it. Sad, but true and another advantage the imports have - they don't have 50 yr old franchises to deal with.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    That all sounds correct and necessary, but I would have expected somewhere around $500-$700 for that but it's hard to tell.
  • ccicakccicak Posts: 13
    Does anyone know where (or if there are any) the fuses are for the heated seats on a '02 LS V8? My driver side won't heat.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    In the fuse box, where else? It's probably the element though and not the fuse.
  • tauruztauruz Posts: 4
    that's the price I pay for buying one!
  • ccicakccicak Posts: 13
    Thanks, but I checked the fuse panel and the fuses are not marked as to what each goes to. Besides, none looked blown.
    It seems unlikely the element would be bad, but maybe you're right. Might not be worth the expense. My wife will just have a cold tushi this winter.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    The elements in the early 2000 models failed often. You could feel and/or hear the broken element in the seatback by pressing into it.

    The owner's manual should have a fuse diagram. Check all the fuses and relays.
  • tauruztauruz Posts: 4
    After 100000 MI tuneup,check engine light stayed on. Computer codes indicated problems with right side catalytic converter. Service Tech made some type of computer adjustment and that solved problem...for now. What causes the converters to go bad ?
  • kargkarg Posts: 20
    My 2000 LS V6 Sport really has been an excellent car. It is hard to believe it is 7 years old and with 97,000 miles on the odometer - running so well!

    My front wheel bearings have been getter LOUDER AND LOUDER. I researched the parts and bought them from the fast parts network (Torrie) for $103 plus shipping and handling for the front one. My mechanic friend told me to order both - so I ended up ordering the other, but it isn't in yet.

    The change out for the first one was a piece of cake! 1.) Remove the wheel. 2.) Remove the caliper and place on the suspension/steering. 3.) Remove the caliper support (or whatever its calle) & rotor. 4.) Loosen the 4 bolts that hold on the hub and it practically falls out on its own. 5.) Remove the 2 bottom clips and inside top clip on the splash guard and pull it forward to unhook the speed sensor cable. 6.) Reverse to install.

    This was the first one that I've done and it was simple. If you can do the repair - save yourself the cash of overpaying a dealer or mechanic.

    I read on different sites where people were paying $800 for one rear hub replacement. I'm sure this is a little more involved since the axle is involved, but the part lists for $48! I can't belive it would cost that much in labor to fix them.

    Has anyone change the rear hubs themselves or had them done? Do you need a hub puller or any special tools?
  • kargkarg Posts: 20
    Just posted about the wheel hub bearing...

    Next issue that just started (hope this isn't the beginning of the nickel/dime phase) is either the starter, battery or PATS ignition.

    On a few occasions this past week - when I turn the key to the start position - I get nothing. Most times if I just let off and turn to start again - it will start. It is rolling fast and lights and everything seem bright, etc - so I've sort of ruled out the battery - even though it is 7 yr old original.

    To me, it seems like the solenoid on the starter may not be getting good contact or whatever. Anyone else experience a similar problem and if so - what was your solution?
  • Any ideas on getting the BLACK PITTING from brake dust off these wheels?? Look bad and am about to grind the damn inside corners to get rid of it...Tom..
  • ccicakccicak Posts: 13
    I have painted OEM wheels which don't have this problem, but my winter wheels are aftermarket "American Racing" brand aluminum, and they also pit like you say.
    I use a rubbing compound and a lot of elbow grease. It's a lot of work. I generally do it in the spring when I take the winter tires off before storing them. Then I apply a coating of wax. This helps, but half the pitting still won't come off. I'm afraid to get too aggressive (like using a power grinder, etc).
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    You could try a clay bar.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I had the dealer replace the three passenger side plugs at 98K miles. I did the driver side. It cost some $180 plus the cost of three plugs and gasket.

    If you have them do the plugs, do the PCV valve AND the rubber elbow with it. It will cost more, but it is worth it. After replacing the plugs only, five months and 5K miles later, the check engine light came on, and the car would run rough and die at idle. The problem was collapsed/punctured PCV rubber elbow. They replaced both the rubber elbow and PCV valve for a whopping $395. I think our only Lincoln dealer overcharges way too much for what they do.

  • kargkarg Posts: 20
    Changing those V6 plugs is a bear - but I've got it down to a science.

    I just did my 100K overhaul with new Bosch +2 Platinum plugs, fuel filter, cabin air, oil/filter change, tire rotation, changed all 4 rotors and brakes out inside of about 5 hours. What a marathon - but the car performs just a bit better.

    Now - I've just got to fix the right rear window - as the little white plug must have come out because the window doesn't go down with the regulator and then will come crashing down. It also won't go back up the whole way. Ah - the only REAL problem I've had with this car...
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I have replaced the front pads/rotors. The front rotors were loose. How do I break loose stuck rear rotors? Will spraying the center and base of studs with WD40 and hitting the rotor with mallet work?

    Where is the fuel filter? I bought the fuel filter several months ago.

  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    Behind the driver's side front wheel well IIRC.
  • ccicakccicak Posts: 13
    What did the rotors cost you? I replaced my pads, but I think my rotors might be slightly warped, hence I might need to replace them also. Did you replace the fuel filter and did you run into any problems?
  • kargkarg Posts: 20
    I can't remember what the exact cost were of the rotors - but I order the cheapest front and rear (china made) ones from advancedauto's on-line store and they shipped for free!

    So - they were really reasonable. The pads however - I ordered the fronts from fastpartsnetwork and they were quite a bit.

    The fuel filter is EASY to change. It's best to remove the front wheel - driver's side front. Then if you have mud flaps - remove that flap. Then on the bottom of the large plastic wheel well liner - near the rear edge and under the body are a couple of those darn clips that you need pliers to pull out the center. Then there is one in the back - straight in, and 2 on top. Then you have to kinda push the liner back and down to get it out. I believe a 5/16 or 8mm socket will loosen the bolt holding the filter. First carefully remove the white plastic clips (flat screw driver) and pry the hoses away from the filter. Then loosen the filter from the body and remove. The mount can be fun to remove and replace the filter - just a little patience!

    Get ready to be bathed in gasoline! Its a $1.32 shower at least!

    Hope that helps.
  • speaking of rear window problems! i have an '01 LS V8. it has been a great car, i have 80,000 miles and no problems until my left rear window dropped about 4 inches after hearing something snap....i live in a rural community and it would be a couple of weeks before i could get to the city! in the meantime the right rear window did the same thing! anyone else experience this? is it the plastic belt??
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    The rear caliper pistons are tough to push back in. I know they have two notches and they have to be rotated back in. I had a special tool that is a cube with so many different shape 2 or 4 notches 180 or 90 degree apart that worked fine on my 95 Cutlass. None of the notches fit the LS. The LS caliper has larger piston and the notches are farther apart. I bought a Ford-specific tool from Napa for $15. The tool made the piston rotate, but it did not retract. I was pushing in while rotating it...After hours of frustration, finally I put my 7.0" C-clamp on it, and starting clamping it. To my surprize, the piston started rotating and retracting at the same time. It was odd the way it was behaving but it worked.

    If you are doing the work yourself, also remove the caliper sliding pins, clean, lubricate, and reinstall. My lower left pin was frozen. I pulled back the rubber booth, sprayed some WD40 on it, let it sit 10 minutes, used a crescent wrench to rotate the pin, used C-clamp to push it in a little, and a screw driver and a mallet to pull it out. It was all rusted. Used sand paper and wired brush to clean both the pin and the guide hole.

    I bought Brembo rotors for both front and rear. They were like $55 for front and $45 for rear each. These were made in Italy. The ones for my Explorer were made in Mexico. Front pads are Napa's cermic type about $50. NO BRAKE DUST!! I am very impressed. For rear, I bought Napa's $25 pads. I will see how well the rear pads stay dust free.

    The LS has 112K miles on it and this was the first brake job.

  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,931
    It's the regulators. You can buy the regulator without the motor for around $30. It will take you about 2 hours to do the first one, 45 minutes for the second one.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Our 2000 LS V-6 with 114K miles does not start. It cranks like it wants to start then dies right away. Has anyone had this issue before? The battery is about a year old.

  • ccicakccicak Posts: 13
    sound like fuel pump failure. Check if pump is working.
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