Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge-Plymouth Neon Routine Care & Maintenance

2»

Comments

  • redpathredpath Posts: 3
    I too have bought this particular car too. It's worth the work to it as it is very good on gas and well sorta sporty yet great for a first family kind of car. I have found I have had little problems here and there. Nothing I would get rid of the car over. The power steering belt might just have been an over sight of a machanic. Most cars the belts are in sync with the charging of your battery through the alternator. If one belt is off or even rubs itself off you could have had you battery light come on.
    If you look for transmission fluid at your local automotive store they usually have some substances their that will greatly improve the slippage. of your transmission. Mine sounded awful one day and I was severely short on funds to pay for a rebuild of the transmission. Here I am and it's been just over a year and no notice of it as a problem. But if it even starts to seem like it's slipping I get this stuff for it. It only costs about $5.00 and I get it usally about every two months. I do drive my car alot to work and back too. Maybe you can check into it and save some major bucks. It seems to me it just has more to do with fluids in the transmission than actual wearing down of the parts. Hope this helps.P.S. I do all the minor work on my Neon and my hhusband doesn't touch it. Get yourself a Haines book for your car too it will help you learn better. I have to read it three times before I start the work to make double sure I know what I need to do before doing it. You will feel better about doing it yourself too. RedPath
  • taztang68taztang68 Posts: 2
    I just had the fuel service done, and an overall inspection of our 96 Neon highline, and when I got it back, it almost felt like I had 4-wheel drive on it when I hit the brakes (brakes shuddered when held down.) Started being noisy, but didn't/don't squeel, it's more like a "rough road" kinda sound. (front brakes got hot, but weren't smelling)
    Today, it started to make the godawfullest noise, first only when I hit the brakes, later just when the wheels were turning, like it was rubbing metal to metal, and it didn't feel like I had ANY breaks when I got it home.............. Any suggestions I can take to the dealership tomorrow (other than some I can't print, and probably shouldn't tell them about)?

    Thanks!
  • alkijimalkijim Posts: 6
    How in the heck do I get the timing belt cover off? The bolts to the motor mount are so long they won's come out so the timing belt cover can be removed.
  • mcmanusmcmanus Posts: 121
    Just "inherited" this car from stepson for his brother's eventual use with $118,000 miles on it. I don't have an owner's manual, service records, and just vague accounts of what service might have been done on it. The car doesn't get run routinely and so I had to recently replace the battery. The only other real problem with the car is the A/C barely works. This is my first experience with a Chrysler product and know nothing about the local dealership.

    My questions: What's on schedule to be done? Roughly how long do these cars run before major issues? What would you recommend having done?

    thanks
  • rojo4rojo4 Posts: 1
    I am in the process of completing the timing belt replacement on my 2000 neon. The removal of the balancer was one of the first challenges as I did not think mine was going to ever come off either.. You will need a 3 arm gear puller. The first one I used was too big and would keep slipping off the balancer. The second one I used looks too small to do the job but it fit correctly and worked fine.There is suppose to be a special tool to place in the crankshaft to protect the threads.Some people use the balancer bolt but I had no luck with that. I made my own out of a bolt slightly smaller diameter than the one that holds the balancer on. Cut the head off and grind down the threads on the bolt so it won't damage the threads in the crank. It should bottom out in the crank, cut to length about even with the balancer face ( aprox. 4") . You will attach the puller on the inside part of the balancer , where it is about 21/2 " dia..You will see the "slots" where the puller arms should go.Tighten as much as possible. If it does not loosen, tap the puller with a hammer about 10 times. Tighten again....repeat this process until it loosens. You might want to tap gently on the face of the balancer pryor to using the puller. Just be carful not to mushroom the bolt hole. This should work for you. Just be aware this is a tough, tedious undertaking as you will find you will need a couple of specific tools and working space is TIGHT.( be sure to have a 3/8 drive 15mm socket, a long 3/8 extension and swivel... Be prepared to buy additional parts which will be expensive ...belt tensioner assembly and serpintine belt pulley assembly, also replace water pump while you are in there. I plan on posting a more detailed account on my experience soon. along with ways to save BIG $$$.
  • Does anyone know if it is the serpintine or the timming belt?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,898
    timing belts don't squeal----if it did you'd be in big trouble (squealing means slipping).

    You might need to tighten up whatever belt is making noise and if it is glazed (polished and smooth on the interior surface of the belt) you need to replace it right away--because it will continue to slip and encourage over-tightening.

    MODERATOR

  • scrubsjimscrubsjim Posts: 2
    after finding oil in my spark plug shafts more in 1 & 2, i bought the kit and a Haynes book....GO haynes!! and got to work, I am not mechanically inclined,,,,,to qoute "Bones McCoy " I'm a Nurse not a Mechanic.
  • lakeg41lakeg41 Posts: 9
    THIS INFO IS VERY LATE FOR YOU ,BUT MAYBE SOMEONE MAY GET SOMETHING FROM THIS . I FOUND THAT IN ORDER TO CHANGE TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP (IT IS FOOLISH NOT TO BOTH AT SAME TIME) YOU DO NEED TO RAISE THE ENGINE . THIS VERY SIMPLE TO DO IF YOU HAVE A GARAGE TYPE OF FLOOR JACK. YOU MUST USE A BLOCK OF WOOD ON JACK & THEN JACK UP THE ENGINE AT THE OIL PAN . BEFORE YOU DO THIS HOWEVER YOU MUST LOOSEN THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS .THERE IS A BOLT ON THE UPPER MOUNT WHICH IS ABOUT 6 " LONG AND CANNOT BE REMOVED UNTIL THE ENGINE IS RAISED ,YOU MUST LOOSEN BEFORE THE ENGINE IS RAISED HOWEVER . THIS TRICK HELPED ME TO DO THE TIMG BELT ON MY 2000 NEON AND MY WIFES PT CRUISER . THEY ARE SIMILAR BUT THE PT IS A LOT HARDER TO ACCESS WORK AREA .THE BEST BET IS TO EITHER BUY A REPAIR MANUAL FROM HAUNES OR CHILTON ,OR JUST GO THE LIBRARY FOR ONE . THE BOOKS WILL BE A GREAT HELP . JOB WILL TAKE THE AVERAGE PERSON ABOUT 4 - 5 HOURS . ACCORDING TO A SHOP MANUAL 2.5 ,WHICH I FIND NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE !!
  • Okay every one I need help on this one. First of does the heating and cooling have anything to do with my emmisions?
    Second off my check engine light is on and I have been told that it is a heating and cooling sensor. I can not find this sensor that they are talking about any one have any ideas?? I have checked all the fuses inside the car and they are good. :confuse: :confuse:
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    what is the code of the check engine light? if you have that most public libraries have access to mitchel component locator. you can also find a number of repair manuals. :)
2»
This discussion has been closed.