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Chevrolet Uplander Electrical Problems

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  • 142geo142geo Posts: 1
    I'm in the process of installing my camera and had an issue with where the camera was placed due to the latch. I positioned the camera just left of the latch. Now I'd like to know how to wire the camera to the reverse lights. Can anyone help me with this?

    142geo
  • sssenesesssenese Posts: 5
    My '05 Uplander had a fire int he electrical harness for the sliding door on the passenger side. You replied to an old post regarding this. Here is the update...

    I sued GM through Krohn & Moss in Chicago. It took months, but I have finally settled with GM for $11,000. Unfortunately, the lawyers got $4,000, but I didn't have to do anything regardign the lawsuit, so I guess that's fair. I;m just happy to make them pay. Had I taken the time to go to court, the settlement would have been higher, but so would the legal fees. I recommend contacting a lawyer to see if they will take your case on contingency, so you don't pay anything win or lose.
  • I am sooooooo frustrated right now. I have an '05 Chevy Uplander. On the first day I drove it off the lot, the bells started ringing while I was driving. I had no clue what was going on, so I took it back to the dealer and the guy I bought it from gave me some lame excuse that all the doors weren't closed tightly. (I had already checked all the doors) But we somehow got the bells to stop ringing. We don't know how.

    Over the course of the last 3 years, I have experienced off and on problems with the side doors flying open while driving, and the side doors not latching shut completely. I have taken it into the dealer three times, and the problem has always recurred. THe last time the chiming mysteriously stopped the morning I was driivng it in there to get fixed! It worked just fine for them, so all they did was clean the tracks and the sensors and it was "fixed". (Yeah right). That was Thursday. Suddenly Friday night the doors wouldn't close again and the chimes started dinging. Sometimes it's just one door and sometimes it's both. Sometimes the bells go constantly while driving. I took a 6 hour road trip with my 5 children with the bells ringing nonstop!!!! We eventually decided that we couldn't take it anymore and I made the kids climb in and out the front doors. Imagine-- 5 kids climbing in and out of the front doors for every potty break, every food break, etc. for 6 hours!

    So I'll be taking it back into the dealership on Monday.......I am very frustrated. I had NO idea this was a common problem among Uplander owners. I'm going to videotape the doors not shutting all the way and take it to the service department at the dealership so that there is proof. At this point, they think I'm just imagining it or something.

    How do we get them (GM) to deal with this problem seriously? I have 55,000 miles on this thing and my warranty is expired. The fact that this problem occurred on day one of purchase proves that this isn't a wear and tear issue. I want it FIXED now, or I want a new vehicle. NOT a GM. Any ideas? Suggestions?

    Thanks.
  • swathdiverswathdiver Posts: 27
    Cindy the problem is the electronic latch in the back of the door and how the mechanic adjusts the door. I was having the problem with my 2006 SV6 Montana on the driver's side sliding door. Once that was replaced the problems with the door not wanting to open or close went away and then needed the mechanic to adjust the door properly to open and close right. My AllData subscription has expired and I don't remember if there were any TSBs for that particular problem. The part number for the driver's side latch is 10347138.
  • uplanderguyuplanderguy Kent, OHPosts: 7,494
    Cindy, please let us know what your dealership tells you.

    Our '05 Uplander has 49K miles and in the past month or so has occasionally had the situation where the door is almost closed, then bounces back. Usually the next attempt, it will close. I am sort-of interested in cars, and this a.m. I did a couple 'tricks' to ours...one, I took an eraser and 'erased' the gunk off the brass-colored contact points on the body near the front of the power door (I think there's eight little brass-colored squares that I did this too....someone told me years ago to do this every so often), and I also cut a tiny little piece of the fat rubber molding off along the bottom of the door opening, near the plastic trim on the body where the door would meet the body. I cut a tiny little piece off of the molding with a scissors, that was jutting out a bit and overlapping the rest of the molding, which made me wonder if the sensor was seeing this as an obstruction. I also cleaned with a wet paper towel, the door track and all kinds of dirt and gunk were down there, as well as a couple of coins. We'll see if this does anything!

    Bill
  • swathdiverswathdiver Posts: 27
    The solution to your problem is the same. The latch in the rear of the door is faulty and needs replacing. While you need to keep the area cleaned along with those contacts it likely doesn't have anything to do with the door popping back open.

    If the door itself is improperly adjusted it may hit the body, usually at the very top at the back and until enough paint is chipped away it will sometimes cause the door to stop opening the first time you hit the swtich.
  • uplanderguyuplanderguy Kent, OHPosts: 7,494
    And what was your dealer's cost to replace the latch, or was yours still under warranty? Luckily, we have just the one power door...if it was some ridiculous cost, we'd just use the driver-side manual door (though inconvenient). Of course, at 49K miles, ours is out of warranty.

    Bill
  • swathdiverswathdiver Posts: 27
    In my motor crash book the part was listed at about $80 and labor about 1/2 hour.

    Ours was under the factory warranty which just expired. Because of these issues and the feeling I got that my local dealer no longer had competant mechanics we bought the extended warranty for a couple more years. I grew up working on computerized cars but to do so today requires a $3500 scanner and access to GM for the latest downloadable updates and such. Frustrating. I'd rather do the work myself.

    James
  • uplanderguyuplanderguy Kent, OHPosts: 7,494
    Thank you, James, for the information. I wonder how much more a retail customer would be charged by the dealer, than the Motor book amounts. I trust my dealer, but I bet the 1/2 hr. would get bumped up to one hour. Maybe not. Really, the rates you quoted are quite reasonable. My door never has problems opening, although I did check the upper-rear area of the door and opening for missing paint as you had mentioned...just out of curiosity. All looked OK there.

    Bill
  • allen383allen383 Posts: 2
    On the Sliding door problem our local dealership replaced the Sliding Door Control Module on our van approx. 6 months ago and solved the problem until now. Our van is out of warranty now, but I am forcing the dealership to fix it again under warranty. The New service manager thinks it is a different problem this time, and they are going to check it out again.

    Also on the Headlight flickering if anyone has this problem, there is a cure to this in hooking up a resistor in line with the alternator, which our dealership did approx a year ago to fix the problem. GM doesn't offer the part, so they had to purchase it from an outside vender. So, I know this can be fixed easily.... The dealer can call their GM tech support to get the information in this..

    Allen
  • swathdiverswathdiver Posts: 27
    I've heard of the resistor fix and another where the battery cable was shielded. My dealer played the "could not replicate" game until the last time I made an issue out of it. The previous visits were for other things that I considered priority and while annoying wasn't a safety issue. Anyhow, instead of following the TSB they soaked Pontiac for a new alternator and since they had to order it, gave us a loaded Caddy DTS to drive for 10 days.

    My driver's side power sliding door issue was mostly fixed, it still acts up because its out of alignment, the body and door panels don't line up anymore. About 1 in 10 times the door will give us trouble opening or closing, it's catching on the rear pillar just as it opens or closes up top. When it gets worse we've decided to take it to another dealership who hopefully has better trained mechanics.

    James
  • I finally got fed up enough to video tape my sliding door issue and took it in to the dealership, because in the past, they could never replicate the problem! I also called GM and they opened a file on my case, and to their credit, they have been totally on the ball with this problem. As you may remember, I posted a problem with the sliding doors not closing and the bells ringing constantly while driving. GM got in touch with the dealership while my van was in the repair shop there and they apparently gave them new codes to reprogram the sliding door (?) and for now, it's working. However, about every 5 times I shut it, it comes ajar just a tad. I can tell it's not sitting totally flush, but at least the bells aren't ringing. GM has been calling me about twice a week to keep checking on the situation, and the dealership called yesterday too just to check. FINALLY, someone at GM is paying attention. The dealership tried to charge me $90 when I picked up the van, but I said "No way. This is NOT my problem. This is a GM problem." They immediately voided the bill. I was very happy.
  • swathdiverswathdiver Posts: 27
    That's great Cindy! Keep that name of the GM employee, some people might need it someday.
  • My dealership is replacing the latch assembly, and cable assembly on my Uplander this time to try to fix the door problem. We will see............. :confuse: :confuse:
  • Our door is acting up again too. My wife was out and it shut but kept dinging the entire trip to the mall and back. When I looked at it, it would shut and lock properly but ding like it was open. When it opened it wouldn't open all the way, stopped about an inch short of its normal travel. Anytime you remotely activated door, it would first pull back and then try to shut then hang back and ding. Not sure how I did it, but I got it to stop and we're not using the door until I can get it back to the dealership.

    James
  • Wow.......our "fixed" sliding door wasn't fixed at all. After the dealership supposedly fixed it, not even 2 weeks later it started all over again. The door won't close, and then when we do close it manually it dings the entire time I'm driving. (This is like a recurring nightmare)

    So I took it back to the dealership, left the van running just to make sure they could witness the problem for real, brought the head service rep. out to see it, and showed him that the problem continues. He seemed just as frustrated as I am.

    I've been calling GM all week now to try to get in touch with the same customer service agent (Martin Fischman) who spent so much time with me trying to get this resolved. I've left several messages and so far, no call back from him!

    I am BEYOND frustrated at this point. GM needs to fix this problem permanently, or they need to replace our van. Period. I guarantee you that if one of their people had to drive around 24/7 with that dinging noise going off non stop, something would be done to fix it. This is simply unacceptable.
  • aubryjaubryj Posts: 2
    We had a 04 Suburban, 05 Equinox and now an 06 Uplander. My husbands Z71 also makes a noise. They all are a bumping kinda loose noise. The dealership replaced a couple of them. It was a part in the steering column. Although it is "typical chevy" problem, there is no recall. To fix it was around $200 after the warranty was up. They said it was not a safety hazard.
  • Both sliding doors on our 2006 Uplander LT have been giving us grief for months now. About 90 percent of the time when we would close one of the doors, they would either open back up again on their own or the back part of the door would fail to latch and would pop out. In the latter instance, we would have to get our and push on the back of the door to get it to latch, or else have to listen to the automatic door lock mechanism try in vain to lock the doors as we drove. I finally reached out to a guy I know who owns a local garage and hosts an auto repair show on a local radio station. I explained the situation to him and he suggested resetting the control module(s) for the power sliding doors (I assume there is one for each door, but not being a mechanic, I'm guessing).

    Not being familiar with the specifics of everyone else's issues with Uplander doors, this may or may not work for you, but so far it's worked for me.

    Before you try to do any fixes yourself, be sure to talk to a reputable automotive repair professional to see if this step is even appropriate for your Uplander door problems. Maybe your local mechanic will be able to help where GM dealers aren't. Good luck!
  • chevyjaxchevyjax Posts: 12
    So I have been having issues with my doors not closing properly, I have also had problems with the warning tone going off while driving down the road, even though the doors appeared to be closed. Yeasterday after dropping the older kids off at school I try to drive away and keep getting the binging noise. I had to open and close the door 3 times, I know it was shut. Then I finally was able to drive off and about a block and a half later, the binging starts again. I find a place to pull over..... and my door is open about 1 inch. I know I closed it. My 3 yr old was in the van with me. He was in his car seat, but that really could have been bad! Luckily I was only going about 35 mph if that. I got video of it on my phone. Maybe they will believe me know!
  • Cindy,

    My name is David Jones and I have the exact same problem with my sliding doors dinging all the time. Do you happen to have your GM case number still? If so, I can call GM and reference that case number and tell them I have the same problem.

    Thanks so much!
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