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Chevrolet Uplander Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • swathdiverswathdiver Posts: 27
    Thank goodness you and the children are ok! Hasn't happened to me. I am curious as to the source of the ignition, will there be any investigation? If so please keep us informed as many here have the same type of vehicle.
  • klopekklopek Posts: 2
    edited May 2011
    Yes there is an investigation the fire was on Sunday May 22. Both the fire department and insurance company are trying to figure out the source. Not sure if you are allowed to post youtube links here but this is the fire http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yHhIjIjZ64&feature=related . I find it amazing how fast the fire spread. This video starts about 20 seconds after we got out of the car.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,077
    klopek,
    I am glad to hear everyone is ok. IF you would like us to look into this please email me with your VIN, contact information including a good number to reach you? Have a great weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I am considering to buy a 2008 Uplander with 3.9L engine and manual sliding side doors. How is the reliability of this model? I know about the Uplander's electrical problems, but they predominantly concern the alternator/charging system with the 3.5L engine in 2005 and the power sliding doors for all model years. Is this assessment correct? Any constructive comments are most welcome.
  • I have a 2007 extended WB. It weighs too much. It has 6 bolt wheels (a tip off) Front brakes had a manufacturer rotor problem. Turning radius is terrible if you live in the city. Rear vision and backing up is restricted. Rear tires last only 10000 miles even after two aligns. Worst problem has been electrical. Battery failure,Dealer replaced. Headlight switch failure causing loss of headlights while on Interstate at night in rain. Replacement will fail for same reason original did without redesign. The seats are way too heavy and difficult to remove. Their latching system is also difficult. All in all, I have owned Chevy Vans since the 80's and this will be my last.
    Thank goodness I do not have power side doors. ... they stay shut.
  • I'm no mechanic at all, so I can't speak to the cause of the electrical problems in my 05, but I know that they were severe. Additionally, like the other poster said, it's a heavy vehicle, tough to manuever, awful turn radius, goes through brakes and tires WAY too fast, and I had to replace the transmission in the first 6 months of owning it (I purchased it new). If a person must buy an Uplander, at least you're getting one with manual doors! :)

    I bought an 07 Toyota Sienna and absolutely LOVE it. Even with 100k miles on it, it drives like a dream and just needs standard maintenance.

    Unless you're getting your Uplander for a steal, I personally would not recommend it.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    My wife and I decided to take the plunge and will trade in our 2006 4 cylinder Dodge Caravan (with close to 80k miles) for a 2007 Uplander LT, SWB (with 55k miles). We paid $6,750 (excl. taxes) plus the trade-in. The Uplander has 10 months of powertrain warranty left. The dealer did a lot of warranty work on it to prep it for sale (head gasket, sway bar, wheel bearings). I want to get 4 years and 60k miles out of this vehicle. I like the comfort of the LT trim, power of the V6, and that the rear seat folds flat on the floor. With the Caravan we kept the rear seat out and it takes up a lot of space in our apartment. It's a hassle always to put it back in. Read the posts of the many problems with the Uplander; hope this one is not as problematic as some.
  • crisbcrisb Posts: 3
    has anyone tried adding the capacitor in circuit to reduce the dimming of lights ? the bulletin is ....
    #05-06-03-003C: Headlamps/Headlights and/or Interior Lights Flicker Intermittently (Replace Generator Voltage Regulator) - (Mar 30, 2007)

    It mentions adding a capacitor and metal shielding, anyone try it?

    ""Recommendation/Instructions:
    To repair the intermittent dimming and/or light flicker use nickel\aluminum tape part number 10184916 or equivalent. The entire battery (B+) cable to the generator should be shielded from the ignition control module. Furthermore, an 8-inch piece of the nickel\aluminum tape needs to be placed along the front of the ignition control module to shield it from the spark plug wires.

    Important Note: A 10,000 pico farad capacitor needs to be installed on Circuit 225 (L terminal) to ground.""
  • If you have automatic sliding doors on your Uplander, and you are having problems with the doors opening when you are driving, look in your Operators Manual on page 2-6 and you will read this:
    "If the sliding door is clsed and the powersliding door button on the transmitter is accidently pressed and held, the vehicle doors will be unlocked and the the power sliding door will open. If the power sliding door has been locked using the manual door lock lever, you will need to unlock the power sliding door before it can be opened with the remote keyless entry transmitter sliding door button." This might be the remedy for your problem.
  • I have a 2006 Uplander, but I do not have the automatic closing slide doors so the doors do not open, however, if you look in your operators manual on page 2-6 (also 2-16) you will find a paragraph that reads:
    "If the sliding door is closed and the power sliding door button on the transmitter is pressed and held, the vehicle's doors will be unlocked and then the power sliding door will open. If the power sliding door has beeen locked using the maual door lock lever, you will need to unlock the power sliding door before it can be opened with the remote keyless entry transmitter sliding door button." I hope this will help.
  • I have a 2006 Uplander, but I do not have the automatic closing slide doors so the doors do not open, however, if you look in your operators manual on page 2-6 (also 2-16) you will find a paragraph that reads:
    "If the sliding door is closed and the power sliding door button on the transmitter is pressed and held, the vehicle's doors will be unlocked and then the power sliding door will open. If the power sliding door has beeen locked using the maual door lock lever, you will need to unlock the power sliding door before it can be opened with the remote keyless entry transmitter sliding door button." I hope this will help.
  • I have a 2006 Uplander, but I do not have the automatic closing slide doors so the doors do not open, however, if you look in your operators manual on page 2-6 (also 2-16) you will find a paragraph that reads:
    "If the sliding door is closed and the power sliding door button on the transmitter is pressed and held, the vehicle's doors will be unlocked and then the power sliding door will open. If the power sliding door has beeen locked using the maual door lock lever, you will need to unlock the power sliding door before it can be opened with the remote keyless entry transmitter sliding door button." I hope this will help.
  • I have a 2006 Uplander, but I do not have the automatic closing slide doors so the doors do not open, however, if you look in your operators manual on page 2-6 (also 2-16) you will find a paragraph that reads:
    "If the sliding door is closed and the power sliding door button on the transmitter is pressed and held, the vehicle's doors will be unlocked and then the power sliding door will open. If the power sliding door has beeen locked using the maual door lock lever, you will need to unlock the power sliding door before it can be opened with the remote keyless entry transmitter sliding door button." I hope this will help.
  • My Uplander was a 2006, it ran great. I used to buy only Chevy but after owning the Uplander, I have now bought a KIA. Their warranty is 10 years 100k, which shows the faith they have in their cars, Chevy does not. Mine was a LS-3. It had electric door issues, which was not as bad as the constant issues I had with the breaks. It is my family car and being able to stop is a real plus, I was sick and tired of the ABS light, which they blamed on a poorly routed wiring harness that I had to pay for since the warranty was over. Their fix lasted for 3 weeks and the problem came back.

    The worst was the intermittent check engine light and when I took it in to get it checked they did not find anything. This is the first time I have heard of a computer in a vehicle losing or clearing its own codes. I also suggested that it may have a faulty computer and the GM repair center people basically told me that I was nuts. I replaced the 4.3 engine in my 1985 Astro with a 1997 4.3, this required that I swap the computers and rewire the van.

    The issues I had with the Uplander was the last straw and even though I have, until recently, only considered owning Chevy, I will not buy another one unless they start making their cars better.
  • smcgaughysmcgaughy Posts: 2
    I have completely fixed the issues of flickering lights and "charging system failure".
    The factory battery terminals are extremely poor quality. My Husband just replaced mine ($15) and my 2005 Uplander is as good as gold! And coming from a van that I had to jump start daily to leave my home.. I'd say problem officially solved!!!
  • smcgaughysmcgaughy Posts: 2
    I was having electrical issues (flickering lights, battery saver mode activated, charging system failure) with my 2005 Chevrolet Uplander and the problem escalated to the point that I was jump starting my van daily to take my Daughter to school!
    Upon searching the internet I found literally 1000's of posts from people with the exact same issues! Numerous people were taking their vans to mechanics only to find zero mechanical issues. People were even going as far as replacing the alternator and serpentine belts.
    With zero option to go to a mechanic, my Husband ( not a mechanic, yet very savvy with vehicles) noticed the the BATTERY TERMINALS were unlike any he had seen before. They were highly corroded and after a good cleaning, my van ran fine for an entire day.. The next morning however, My van was completely dead. It would usually "try" to start. The interior lights worked fine but would flicker and upon ignition, the engine would only click and the gauges would hop up and down. He then said it had to be something with those terminals. The next day he bought new battery terminals ($15) and a new battery ($110), (the daily jump starting had worn mine down) and now my van is completely fixed!!!! I really hope this helps those who are having issues with their 2005 - 2008 Chevy Uplanders!
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    The ABS light came on the other day and it has been off ever since. My Uplander does not have the Stabiltrak. The owner's manual says to bring it in and have it checked out if the light stays on. Since it has not come back on, is it safe to assume nothing needs to be done? I haven't noticed any change in braking, but brakes squeak a bit. Any advice is appreciated.
  • Good morning jpf,

    It sounds as though your light was effectively reset; perhaps the best thing to do right now would be to keep an eye out for it. When the light stays on is when the ABS system is not working at all (as you're likely aware).

    Let us know if you would like for us to check into anything for you (warranty/recall information, etc).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Sarah,
    Thank you for the prompt response. I'll get it checked out if it comes on again. Overall, we've been satisfied with our Uplander.
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Posts: 54
    I just replaced the original equipment spark plugs and wires on our '06 Uplander with 105,300 miles. The engine rolls forward quite easily, but holding it forward is the key to this procedure. I did not have a ratcheting strap available to roll the engine forward & hold it in position. I was, however, able to use a long pry-bar to move the engine forward and held it there with some heavy duty bailing wire. In order to have better access to the rear plugs, I removed the coil pack and mounting plate. Once those were out of the way, I could stand on a short step ladder and lean over the engine and get to the rear plugs. After new AC Delco Iridium plugs and Duralast wire set were in place, everything went back without any glitches, for less than $80.00. :)
  • I too have a 2007 Uplander. The doors on this are terrible. I have had it back to the deal every 3 months to fix them not closing. Also the passenger side door is now broke completely....the motor has exploded into a thousand pieces and will cost 600 to replace. The glove box has fallen off and so have both pieces by the handle of the doors.
  • damion0072damion0072 Posts: 1
    edited November 2013
    I have a 2007 Chevy Uplander LS that shuts off by itself while driving, sometimes the Anti Theft Light Flashes (sometimes it doesn't) and then the car just dies. It does recrank, but it's very dangereous for a car to just die on the freeway. Has anyone else had this issue, or know how to correct it?
  • dar01dar01 Posts: 2

    I bought a used 2006 Chevy Uplander from a dealership. I test drove it for a short distance during the daylight. I bought and 2 days later I drove it at night. I travel a Mountain road daily and when I was on the mountain I notice the lights flickering and the heater fan seem to low then high as if there was a power surge. My nightmare happen and the lights went out completely. Luckily I didn't get in a accident and hurt anyone or myself. I pulled over to the nearest stop praying no one would come up behind and hit me. I sat there trying to figure out what to do and the lights came back on. I quickly got to my destination and the next day drove to the dealership to let them know what was happening, They had me bring it in and drop it off since they had to replace the brake light anyways and was waiting on the part.I dropped it off Thurs night and got it back Wed and was told they fix it. When I picked it up I asked what was wrong so I would know the history of the car repairs. I was told he thought the mechanic said it was a ground wire and fixed it. The next day I was traveling at night and the same thing happened...lights flickered and lights went out. I haven't even made my first payment and after reading the comments I'm afraid I'm going to have almost 4 yrs of payments on a nightmare vehicle. Does anyone know if they ever resolved the issue for this yr? What was the solution if they did...please......................

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,077

    Hello dar01,

    We're sorry to hear of the trouble you've experienced with your new Uplander. If you would like for us to reach out to your dealership regarding this matter, please private message us your full contact information, VIN, current mileage, and dealership name/location.

    Thank you,

    Amber N. GM Customer Care

  • dar01dar01 Posts: 2

    Yes, I would greatly appreciate it. I am so afraid to drive the vehicle. I feel maybe coming from you they will listen and really get this taken care of.

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,077

    @dar01 said: Yes, I would greatly appreciate it. I am so afraid to drive the vehicle. I feel maybe coming from you they will listen and really get this taken care of.

    Your safety is very important to us and we want you to feel that you have a reliable vehicle for the road. When you get a chance, please feel free to send me the requested information so I can look into this for you. If you'd like, you can also email me at socialmedia@gm.com [attn Amber].

    I look forward to hearing from you,

    Amber N. GM Customer Care

  • ali786ali786 Posts: 1

    I have chevy uplander o5, and I have a big safety problem. During driving my Van is stopped, steering hard, brake off. Very dangerous condition on road side, then I went to GM Dealer, I paid diagnosed charges and they diagnosed Crankshaft sensor but they do not 100% sure. After that I replaced Crankshaft sensor, check all spark plugs, changed transmission oil. But my van has same issue, pl somebody to help me out.

    Thanks

  • eeleyebrowneeleyebrown Posts: 1

    I have a 2008 Chevy Uplander. I had an issue with the charging system failure light coming on as well as the battery saver signal on the dashboard. My mechanic seems to have taken care of it though I don't think he was aware of it. However, one problem that seems to keep dogging me is a starting/ignition issue.

    When I first got the car, within the first couple weeks one night it wouldn't start. A co-worker suggested I try it in neutral and it worked. After that, I had that happen only a handful of times within the year and a half. But recently, the last few times I tried to start it, it took four or five tries in either park or neutral to get it to start. I had a full tune up in April and I had the starter and alternator checked before that and a new battery installed in March. My mechanic tells me everything looks good. Yet, this problem continues. When I finally do get it started, it starts to crank really slow as if its being awakened then it will pick up a bit of energy as I hold the key in position and then it kicks in. Should I be giving it a bit of gas maybe to help it along? I always assumed that with newer cars you don't need to do that.

    I also notice that the battery voltage kind of wanders. Last night when I tried to start it, the voltage was 12.1. After I got it started, let it run for 12 minutes and drove 25 miles to get home, the voltage was 14.2. Im wondering if that has any bearing on my starter issues. Any help would be appreciated. Im trying not to get hosed by the dealership as I've noticed that many Uplander owners are experiencing car problems as well as incompetence and dishonesty from their local Chevy dealerships.

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