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Chevy Express/GMC Savana Starting/Stalling Problems

13

Comments

  • awcawc Posts: 1
    Hello everyone! I'm new here so I hope that I will post this correctly. Looking for anyone who has some input because I'm about ready to pull my hair out......I have a 2003 Express with 4.8L V8 and I have no spark, this is what i've done so far.

    Replaced Plugs and wires
    Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor

    Can anyone suggest where the next step is??
    The issue I have is getting it anywhere to get a code reader on it but thought I'd try to rule out some of the starting points etc........
    I'm going crazy but any info would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2000 Express conversion van 5.7 engine, It would start and
    run for 10 to 30 seconds and die, it would start right back and drive ok until I stopped for over 10 minutes and it would do it all over again, start and die, start and drive ok. No codes on OBD2 scanner and security light off.
    After checking everything trying to find the problem. I removed passlock module.
    and scanner read P1626 Theft Deterrant System Fuel Enable Circuit. With passlock module removed it would start and die as before. Let it set overnight and tried again next day. Still with module removed started and died 3 times. Connected module and no more problems. It runs great and has not died again. Passlock module is located under dash, right side of steering column, just above
    gas pedal cable and back towards steering wheel, It is sort of hide,
    I also found in a manual, if a magnet is placed near passlock sensor it will cause vehicle control module to lockout mode and turn on security light, My light did not
    stay on. The pickup sensor is just below key lock cylinder very close to the key entrance. My problem all started with a spare key with a magnetic tag on the same key ring. This van does not have alarm system, horn blowning and head lights flashing, Just the key passlock system.
  • I have read through all of the messages on this forum that relate and have foundsome useful ideas. I don't want to throw money to the wind and frankly can't afford to! My 98 Savana 5.7 has had the security light on solid for a few months my wife tells me...I recently returned from a deployment and after driving the van for a few days I parked it in the driveway last week and now it wont restart. It cranks and attempts to start but will not stay running. It has fuel pressure at the fuel rail and if I spray ether in the air cleaner it will stay running until I stop. It obvisously has spark as well. I dont know where to go from here....should I replace the ignition switch as some have suggested? I honestly don't know if the passlock is the issue as the light has been on for so long and it just now won't start. Or do I begin with a crank sensor...but it has spark? Help please as we are a large family with this as our only vehicle that can take us all. Thanks in advance
  • GMC, Savana G3500 (1-ton) Van
    5.7 votec
    100,000 miles

    My Van doesn't start after heavy rain & wind. It turns over but the engine stops abruptly almost as if the engine is ceasing making a weird sound. It has ruien 2-starters. The van usually starts after a couple of days

    Thigs I have tried .... New Starter.... dry Gas ... Check for spark, ok .... replaced the Distributer cap & rotar a year ago .. 2-new fuel pumps 1 1/2 yrs ago

    This Problem has been on & off for two yrs

    Would Spark plug wires have anything to do with this?
  • I dont claim to be the most knowledgeable person when it comes to cars.. But im 100percent certain that these vehicles have issues with fuel pumps constantly dying.. and i mean replacing them every 15-20k miles.. Proven fact.
  • So we own a couple 2007 GMC savana vans and they would not start when hot. If I let it cool for about 30 min. it would fire right up. I had tons of morons try to tell me what was wrong with these vans. All kinds of electrical issues etc. My mechanic finally figured it out. Its the STARTER. To make sure you are having the same problem as I was, get under the van (when it is hot and wont start). Locate the starter and spray it with a hose for about two minutes. This cools the starter and it should fire right up. Be careful not to spray anything else. It is never good to spray cold water on hot car parts. The problem is simple. The starter housing expands when it is hot and magnets inside cannot make contact. Therefor, the starter wont turn until it cools and contracts. Yes magnets. Not like a typical brush in an electric motor. These are a bit different. Whatever you do, DO NOT HIT THE STARTER WITH ANYTHING to get it to turn over. These larger magnets will crack and the starter will never work again. If you did, it's time for a tow. This is not the 80's anymore. You don't need to beat the crap out your vehicle to get it to start. Try the hose, get home and replace the starter. Your electrical system is fine.
  • So we own a couple 2007 GMC savana vans and they would not start when hot. If I let it cool for about 30 min. it would fire right up. I had tons of morons try to tell me what was wrong with these vans. All kinds of electrical issues etc. My mechanic finally figured it out. Its the STARTER. To make sure you are having the same problem as I was, get under the van (when it is hot and wont start). Locate the starter and spray it with a hose for about two minutes. This cools the starter and it should fire right up. Be careful not to spray anything else. It is never good to spray cold water on hot car parts. The problem is simple. The starter housing expands when it is hot and magnets inside cannot make contact. Therefor, the starter wont turn until it cools and contracts. Yes magnets. Not like a typical brush in an electric motor. These are a bit different. Whatever you do, DO NOT HIT THE STARTER WITH ANYTHING to get it to turn over. These larger magnets will crack and the starter will never work again. If you did, it's time for a tow. This is not the 80's anymore. You don't need to beat the crap out your vehicle to get it to start. Try the hose, get home and replace the starter. Your electrical system is fine.
  • ifineifine Posts: 1
    Has anyone had fuel injector problems on Chev Express 5.7 o and I have a 99 that is running rough, mechanic says I need to replace the injector and they are part of the manifold and come as a set. Does any of that make sense. Would appreciate advise and help. Thanks
  • i have a 2000 chevy express 3500 with a 5.7liter i get it to start and starts fine but after about 10 mins it dies and wont restart when i try to restart it makes a loud clanking noise while turning over iv went throw 3 starters with this problm. so i thought it was the fuel pump or fuel filter so i replaced both and am still haveing the same problm anyone have any ideas what could b going wrong this is my work truck so i need it on the road
  • I would investigate the loud clanking noise while cranking over. Three starters , probably in a short period of time needs attention.

    Does the engine make the clanking sound every time you start it or try to start it? Does the engine spit and sputter when shutting off or just act like the key was turned off?

    You can buy a manual for the van and it may help. You can monitor the fuel pressure while the engine is running and see if it drops off. An OBDII tester may give you some codes if there are engine problems. There is a crank position sensor that could be going bad, or the timing module in the distributor could be failing. When the engine shuts off do the idiot lights on the dash come on, when the engine does not want to start again are there any idiot lights on on the dash? Could be control module problems, loose wire or bad ground...

    Good luck!
  • when i can get it to start it starts fine but after about 10-15 mins it sputters out no warning lights r on while running but a check engine light comes on after it dies and when i try to restart is when it makes the loud clanking noise like the engine wants to cease if i let it sit for a long period of time it will start for those 10-15 mins
  • If you have access to an OBDII tester it will give you the code that was displayed when the engine shut down. It may be helpful in determining what is happening. You can buy a fairly inexpensive code reader for under $100.00. It may only give you the code or codes as alpha numeric, then you will need a manual of web site to decipher the codes. This should point you in the right direction or at least help.

    I use an AUTOTAP code reader with expanded information specific to the Fords, Chevy's and Chrysler products. (www.autotap.com) It is expensive but it has helped me with several cars.
  • HI FOLKS... I BEEN INTERESTED IN .THIS CONVERSATION .......ABOUT THE VANS I AM LOOKING TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS VAN LOCALLY... AND IT HAD A SORT HISTORY OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS.... THE GUY WHO OWN THE VAN NOW SEZ ..... HE CHANGE THE .....CAP AND ROTOR AND IT RUNS FINE NOW....

    I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING

    AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????

    IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??

    OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?

    PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
  • HI FOLKS... I BEEN INTERESTED IN .THIS CONVERSATION .......ABOUT THE VANS I AM LOOKING TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS VAN LOCALLY... AND IT HAD A SORT HISTORY OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS.... THE GUY WHO OWN THE VAN NOW SEZ ..... HE CHANGE THE .....CAP AND ROTOR AND IT RUNS FINE NOW....

    I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING

    AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????

    IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??

    OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?

    PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
  • magna82magna82 Posts: 2
    I, too, have been interested in this thread. I will be working on a 2000 GMC for a friend with this same problem. He has wasted $1K on failed fixes. I have 40 years experience in electronics and rebuild wrecked or flooded vehicles as a hobby. I find one notable response on this forum referring to a loose ground at the thermostat housing. I also would like to share that alldatadiy.com has online manuals and service bulletins for a very reasonable subscription. I found there is a service bulletin released in 2003 that is in regard to corrosion problems with the VCM under the hood near the relay center on the left side of the vehicle. There is a revised splash shield to help prevent further damage. I find it interesting that I did not hear mention of this from any of the posts that took there van to a dealer. I only happened on this site, tonight in researching the issue to help my friend, this weekend. I will try to post my findings here when I get his fixed.
  • magna82magna82 Posts: 2
    With the engine housing removed, I held a neon tester against one of the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. The neon flashed so I knew I had ignition. I took the cap off of the schraeder valve on the fuel line feeding the injectors and carefully pressing the center pin to check for any pressure (should be about 50 psi), there was none. I took off the air cleaner and removed the mass air flow sensor. I then poured about 2 ounces of fuel in the duct leading to the throttle body. I then cranked the engine, which started and ran until the fuel was all gone, about 10-15 seconds. I then verified that there was 12 volts at the fuel pump relay and after replacing the relay, I verified that the relay clicked when the key was turned on. I then crawled under the van and split connector C301 at the front of the fuel tank and checked for voltage and ground. I found the ground pin in position "A" had become hot and melted the plastic. I knew that there had been a poor connection which raised the resistance of the connection causing it to heat under load. I took apart the pins and cleaned and soldered each one. The ground pin on the mating half of the connector was blackened as well. Cleaned everything up and put it back together. The pump runs fine, now. I am ordering a new connector body(12110751) to replace the melted section.
  • My starting problems starting the van happened about 3 months into the
    rainy season and my '01 5.7 was 2 years old and still under warranty. The mechanic said it was moisture under the distributer cap and that I needed to drive it more. It happened again about a year later this time I looked at it myself and found copious amounts of moisture and corrosion. A new cap and rotor fixed the problem temporarily. The design and configuration is very susceptible to steam building in the small engine compartment and entering the vents in the bottom of the distributer and not escaping then the firing storm in the confined space corrodes and carbon tracks the components to premature failure. GM sent a tsb recommending removing the vent screens (not a good idea since it allows more moisture in.). I believe I have solved my problem by fabricating a vent fixed into the top (heat rises GM!) of the cap. I cut the vent from another model cap, drilled a hole in my cap and secured the vent with epoxy. So far so good! My last cap and rotor tracked so bad that it burned a hole through the rotor an stopped running while driving down the road. A new cap and rotor every 18-24 months will work I just got tired of the work and expense. I have gone through 4 or 5 sets before I put the vent in the top. Good luck.

    Cheers
  • crewvancrewvan Posts: 2
    2000 5.7 As I posted in a earlier post, Engine would start and run for 10 to 30 seconds than die, no codes, no warning light, no security light. After restarting for the 3rd time, I could drive until shut engine off for 10 minutes, then it would start the same thing all over again. Pulled fuel pump, checked good. Replaced central SFI injection system with a BWD MFI conversion from Advance Auto Parts #63886 ($304). This fixed the problem. My problem was like a diesel engine with air in the lines. Check the fuel line connector orings close to the distributor.
    They can seal with fuel pressure and leak air back into the line without pressure and will not leak gas. I found them bad when reinstalling.
  • gqintxgqintx Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    I've found many problems in this forum can be a result of a poor ground at the fuse block under the hood on drivers side. This box tends to become loose at the screw(s) where it both grounds and anchors to the vehicles body. I simply removed the screw(s) cleaned with a wire brush, replaced them assuring they are tight. (Problems Solved!!!!!!!) Also would't be a bad idea to remove the cover to this block and check all relays and fuses to make sure they are properly seated. Hope this works for many of you......Reply to me with any updates.
  • gqintxgqintx Posts: 2
    I've found many problems in this forum can be a result of a poor ground at the fuse block under the hood on drivers side. This box tends to become loose at the screw(s) where it both grounds and anchors to the vehicles body. I simply removed the screw(s) cleaned with a wire brush, replaced them assuring they tight. (Problems Solved!!!!!!!) Also would't be a bad idea to remove the cover to this block and check all relays and fuses to make sure they are properly seated. Hope this works for many of you......Reply to me with any updates.
  • my truck does the same thing, its moisture getting inside a crack in the coil... the best solution i found is spray starting fluid lightly around coil, then air off with computer keyboard aerosol spray air.. will be up and runnin in 3 minuts...
  • I have a 96 Express with the vortec 350. it will only start if I hold the gas pedal to the floor. Once it starts it runs a little rough but able to drive. It will cut out and spit and sputter little but still runs down the road. You can shut it off and have to hold the pedal to the floor to start it again. It does not matter if its hot or cold. Seem to run rich. Its not putting out any codes.Things I have replaced and or ruled out. First I have good gas pressure. And spark seems to be good. I just installed the upgraded fuel injection system, fuel filter,cap,rotor, plugs. all new upper gaskets. MAF is good. Throttle body was cleaned and look to be good. Iam at a loss. Have know clue what it could be.It only has 140,000 mile and I have $700 into it now and it still has not fixed the starting problem. Please let me know what you think. Maybe crank sensor or map?I just know and running out of money to put more parts that dont fix the problem. Thank for any help
  • clean fuel injection..
  • hey everyone just noticed most of the issues everyone is having with their expresses or savanas is after the van is warm or hot. here is a new one for you my neighbours express has issues when its cold. the other day i tried to start it to move it and it took all day to get it going finally after almost killing battery i cleaned all contact points inside the cap including rotor finally engine started. however i noticed that two days ago when my neighbour started van it backfired after trying for quite some time anyway to the point of my issue i noticed that once it was going it idled high and very rough, so i had him shut it down and restart it and when he started it the second time the idle was immediately lower and smooth. i was curious as to what sensors actually run at first because i know that the engine was definately not warmed up so it must have been still in closed loop i think. anyone who knows feel free to help as it seems weird that the van on the second try seemed to run perfect.
  • This Cargo Van will not start, if I take out Air Filter and spray Starting Fluid in it starts and runs, is this the fuel pump? I would think if the pump was out the engine would not run at all.
  • Have you checked the Mass air flow sensor, here is a link where you don't need a scanner to check it, it's a few steps but it till save you money and the directions are clear as glass:

    web site:

    http://easyautodiagnostics.com/

    Common Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor
    This list is not all inclusive but it does contain the most common symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor are:
    The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL) on your Instrument Cluster is lit nice and bright with one of the following codes:
    P0101 Mass Air Flow System Performance.
    P0102 Mass Air Flow Low Frequency.
    P0103 Mass Air Flow High Frequency.
    Lean and/or Rich code(s).
    Fuel Trim code(s).
    A tremendous lack of power upon acceleration.
    Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe.
    Vehicle may idle rough and stall.
  • 97 1500 vortec wont start cold it sounds like it wants to start but may take up to 20trys once it starts it runs great and will start all day....any ideas
  • mip3mip3 Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2000 GMC 5.7, WONT START ON A RAINY DAY, FIRST TIME I JUST HAD TO WAIT FOR Mr. SUN TO COME OUT AND PROBLEM SOLVED. THIS TIME I CHEKED SPARK AT IGNI-COIL, FOUND IT NICE AND BLUE, BUT AT THE SPARK PLUG END WAS YELLOW AND WEAK. REPLACED ROTOR AND CAP, PROBLEM SOLVED.....LETS SEE FOR HOW LONG.....
  • Having the same exact problem. Every time it rains. I cannot get it to turn over for squat. I initially had a problem with a severe lack of power. Having just bought my 3500 express (short bus) I was working my way through the vehicle. found a spark plug wire completely off. That fixed my power problem. replaced distributer cap all plugs and wires. Also found a bolt on the exhaust manifold completely missing. I am in the process of tracking that down.

    Bigger issue is the darn rain. as soon as it dries up, the thing turns right over with no hesitation. I found the rain guard over the fuse box on the drivers side a little loose. I have just realigned it. I also saw water on some of the connections. Hopefully it is that simple. I heard replacing the fuel pressure regulator works, but can't imagine thats the case here. It seems purely electrical and due to wetness. Any input would be helpful if anyone has a definite fix for this issue.
  • docholiday69docholiday69 Posts: 3
    edited January 2012
    I have an issue I've never had before. I have had the moisture problem and fixed it with the new distributor cap. Two days ago I was driving on the thruway in NY it was raining and the van stalled but then started right back up. Without turning the motor over to start it?
    This happened about 4 times until it stalled and didn't start. I was pulling off the thruway and put it into to neutral and turned the key and it started. I drove about 20 miles and it stalled again, this time it didn't start. I tried several times to start it but no luck. I started my call to AAA and tried one more time and it started. I then drove from Rochester to Syracuse without incident about 70 miles. However this morning we have about 12" of snow and it will not start. Sorry for the long post but thought I'd have to tell the whole story for someone to diagnose it.

    Thanks
    Dan
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