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Chevy Express/GMC Savana Starting/Stalling Problems

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  • awcawc Posts: 1
    Hello everyone! I'm new here so I hope that I will post this correctly. Looking for anyone who has some input because I'm about ready to pull my hair out......I have a 2003 Express with 4.8L V8 and I have no spark, this is what i've done so far.

    Replaced Plugs and wires
    Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor

    Can anyone suggest where the next step is??
    The issue I have is getting it anywhere to get a code reader on it but thought I'd try to rule out some of the starting points etc........
    I'm going crazy but any info would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2000 Express conversion van 5.7 engine, It would start and
    run for 10 to 30 seconds and die, it would start right back and drive ok until I stopped for over 10 minutes and it would do it all over again, start and die, start and drive ok. No codes on OBD2 scanner and security light off.
    After checking everything trying to find the problem. I removed passlock module.
    and scanner read P1626 Theft Deterrant System Fuel Enable Circuit. With passlock module removed it would start and die as before. Let it set overnight and tried again next day. Still with module removed started and died 3 times. Connected module and no more problems. It runs great and has not died again. Passlock module is located under dash, right side of steering column, just above
    gas pedal cable and back towards steering wheel, It is sort of hide,
    I also found in a manual, if a magnet is placed near passlock sensor it will cause vehicle control module to lockout mode and turn on security light, My light did not
    stay on. The pickup sensor is just below key lock cylinder very close to the key entrance. My problem all started with a spare key with a magnetic tag on the same key ring. This van does not have alarm system, horn blowning and head lights flashing, Just the key passlock system.
  • I have read through all of the messages on this forum that relate and have foundsome useful ideas. I don't want to throw money to the wind and frankly can't afford to! My 98 Savana 5.7 has had the security light on solid for a few months my wife tells me...I recently returned from a deployment and after driving the van for a few days I parked it in the driveway last week and now it wont restart. It cranks and attempts to start but will not stay running. It has fuel pressure at the fuel rail and if I spray ether in the air cleaner it will stay running until I stop. It obvisously has spark as well. I dont know where to go from here....should I replace the ignition switch as some have suggested? I honestly don't know if the passlock is the issue as the light has been on for so long and it just now won't start. Or do I begin with a crank sensor...but it has spark? Help please as we are a large family with this as our only vehicle that can take us all. Thanks in advance
  • GMC, Savana G3500 (1-ton) Van
    5.7 votec
    100,000 miles

    My Van doesn't start after heavy rain & wind. It turns over but the engine stops abruptly almost as if the engine is ceasing making a weird sound. It has ruien 2-starters. The van usually starts after a couple of days

    Thigs I have tried .... New Starter.... dry Gas ... Check for spark, ok .... replaced the Distributer cap & rotar a year ago .. 2-new fuel pumps 1 1/2 yrs ago

    This Problem has been on & off for two yrs

    Would Spark plug wires have anything to do with this?
  • I dont claim to be the most knowledgeable person when it comes to cars.. But im 100percent certain that these vehicles have issues with fuel pumps constantly dying.. and i mean replacing them every 15-20k miles.. Proven fact.
  • So we own a couple 2007 GMC savana vans and they would not start when hot. If I let it cool for about 30 min. it would fire right up. I had tons of morons try to tell me what was wrong with these vans. All kinds of electrical issues etc. My mechanic finally figured it out. Its the STARTER. To make sure you are having the same problem as I was, get under the van (when it is hot and wont start). Locate the starter and spray it with a hose for about two minutes. This cools the starter and it should fire right up. Be careful not to spray anything else. It is never good to spray cold water on hot car parts. The problem is simple. The starter housing expands when it is hot and magnets inside cannot make contact. Therefor, the starter wont turn until it cools and contracts. Yes magnets. Not like a typical brush in an electric motor. These are a bit different. Whatever you do, DO NOT HIT THE STARTER WITH ANYTHING to get it to turn over. These larger magnets will crack and the starter will never work again. If you did, it's time for a tow. This is not the 80's anymore. You don't need to beat the crap out your vehicle to get it to start. Try the hose, get home and replace the starter. Your electrical system is fine.
  • So we own a couple 2007 GMC savana vans and they would not start when hot. If I let it cool for about 30 min. it would fire right up. I had tons of morons try to tell me what was wrong with these vans. All kinds of electrical issues etc. My mechanic finally figured it out. Its the STARTER. To make sure you are having the same problem as I was, get under the van (when it is hot and wont start). Locate the starter and spray it with a hose for about two minutes. This cools the starter and it should fire right up. Be careful not to spray anything else. It is never good to spray cold water on hot car parts. The problem is simple. The starter housing expands when it is hot and magnets inside cannot make contact. Therefor, the starter wont turn until it cools and contracts. Yes magnets. Not like a typical brush in an electric motor. These are a bit different. Whatever you do, DO NOT HIT THE STARTER WITH ANYTHING to get it to turn over. These larger magnets will crack and the starter will never work again. If you did, it's time for a tow. This is not the 80's anymore. You don't need to beat the crap out your vehicle to get it to start. Try the hose, get home and replace the starter. Your electrical system is fine.
  • ifineifine Posts: 1
    Has anyone had fuel injector problems on Chev Express 5.7 o and I have a 99 that is running rough, mechanic says I need to replace the injector and they are part of the manifold and come as a set. Does any of that make sense. Would appreciate advise and help. Thanks
  • i have a 2000 chevy express 3500 with a 5.7liter i get it to start and starts fine but after about 10 mins it dies and wont restart when i try to restart it makes a loud clanking noise while turning over iv went throw 3 starters with this problm. so i thought it was the fuel pump or fuel filter so i replaced both and am still haveing the same problm anyone have any ideas what could b going wrong this is my work truck so i need it on the road
  • I would investigate the loud clanking noise while cranking over. Three starters , probably in a short period of time needs attention.

    Does the engine make the clanking sound every time you start it or try to start it? Does the engine spit and sputter when shutting off or just act like the key was turned off?

    You can buy a manual for the van and it may help. You can monitor the fuel pressure while the engine is running and see if it drops off. An OBDII tester may give you some codes if there are engine problems. There is a crank position sensor that could be going bad, or the timing module in the distributor could be failing. When the engine shuts off do the idiot lights on the dash come on, when the engine does not want to start again are there any idiot lights on on the dash? Could be control module problems, loose wire or bad ground...

    Good luck!
  • when i can get it to start it starts fine but after about 10-15 mins it sputters out no warning lights r on while running but a check engine light comes on after it dies and when i try to restart is when it makes the loud clanking noise like the engine wants to cease if i let it sit for a long period of time it will start for those 10-15 mins
  • If you have access to an OBDII tester it will give you the code that was displayed when the engine shut down. It may be helpful in determining what is happening. You can buy a fairly inexpensive code reader for under $100.00. It may only give you the code or codes as alpha numeric, then you will need a manual of web site to decipher the codes. This should point you in the right direction or at least help.

    I use an AUTOTAP code reader with expanded information specific to the Fords, Chevy's and Chrysler products. (www.autotap.com) It is expensive but it has helped me with several cars.
  • HI FOLKS... I BEEN INTERESTED IN .THIS CONVERSATION .......ABOUT THE VANS I AM LOOKING TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS VAN LOCALLY... AND IT HAD A SORT HISTORY OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS.... THE GUY WHO OWN THE VAN NOW SEZ ..... HE CHANGE THE .....CAP AND ROTOR AND IT RUNS FINE NOW....

    I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING

    AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????

    IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??

    OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?

    PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
  • HI FOLKS... I BEEN INTERESTED IN .THIS CONVERSATION .......ABOUT THE VANS I AM LOOKING TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS VAN LOCALLY... AND IT HAD A SORT HISTORY OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS.... THE GUY WHO OWN THE VAN NOW SEZ ..... HE CHANGE THE .....CAP AND ROTOR AND IT RUNS FINE NOW....

    I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING

    AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????

    IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??

    OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?

    PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
  • magna82magna82 Posts: 2
    I, too, have been interested in this thread. I will be working on a 2000 GMC for a friend with this same problem. He has wasted $1K on failed fixes. I have 40 years experience in electronics and rebuild wrecked or flooded vehicles as a hobby. I find one notable response on this forum referring to a loose ground at the thermostat housing. I also would like to share that alldatadiy.com has online manuals and service bulletins for a very reasonable subscription. I found there is a service bulletin released in 2003 that is in regard to corrosion problems with the VCM under the hood near the relay center on the left side of the vehicle. There is a revised splash shield to help prevent further damage. I find it interesting that I did not hear mention of this from any of the posts that took there van to a dealer. I only happened on this site, tonight in researching the issue to help my friend, this weekend. I will try to post my findings here when I get his fixed.
  • magna82magna82 Posts: 2
    With the engine housing removed, I held a neon tester against one of the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. The neon flashed so I knew I had ignition. I took the cap off of the schraeder valve on the fuel line feeding the injectors and carefully pressing the center pin to check for any pressure (should be about 50 psi), there was none. I took off the air cleaner and removed the mass air flow sensor. I then poured about 2 ounces of fuel in the duct leading to the throttle body. I then cranked the engine, which started and ran until the fuel was all gone, about 10-15 seconds. I then verified that there was 12 volts at the fuel pump relay and after replacing the relay, I verified that the relay clicked when the key was turned on. I then crawled under the van and split connector C301 at the front of the fuel tank and checked for voltage and ground. I found the ground pin in position "A" had become hot and melted the plastic. I knew that there had been a poor connection which raised the resistance of the connection causing it to heat under load. I took apart the pins and cleaned and soldered each one. The ground pin on the mating half of the connector was blackened as well. Cleaned everything up and put it back together. The pump runs fine, now. I am ordering a new connector body(12110751) to replace the melted section.
  • My starting problems starting the van happened about 3 months into the
    rainy season and my '01 5.7 was 2 years old and still under warranty. The mechanic said it was moisture under the distributer cap and that I needed to drive it more. It happened again about a year later this time I looked at it myself and found copious amounts of moisture and corrosion. A new cap and rotor fixed the problem temporarily. The design and configuration is very susceptible to steam building in the small engine compartment and entering the vents in the bottom of the distributer and not escaping then the firing storm in the confined space corrodes and carbon tracks the components to premature failure. GM sent a tsb recommending removing the vent screens (not a good idea since it allows more moisture in.). I believe I have solved my problem by fabricating a vent fixed into the top (heat rises GM!) of the cap. I cut the vent from another model cap, drilled a hole in my cap and secured the vent with epoxy. So far so good! My last cap and rotor tracked so bad that it burned a hole through the rotor an stopped running while driving down the road. A new cap and rotor every 18-24 months will work I just got tired of the work and expense. I have gone through 4 or 5 sets before I put the vent in the top. Good luck.

    Cheers
  • crewvancrewvan Posts: 2
    2000 5.7 As I posted in a earlier post, Engine would start and run for 10 to 30 seconds than die, no codes, no warning light, no security light. After restarting for the 3rd time, I could drive until shut engine off for 10 minutes, then it would start the same thing all over again. Pulled fuel pump, checked good. Replaced central SFI injection system with a BWD MFI conversion from Advance Auto Parts #63886 ($304). This fixed the problem. My problem was like a diesel engine with air in the lines. Check the fuel line connector orings close to the distributor.
    They can seal with fuel pressure and leak air back into the line without pressure and will not leak gas. I found them bad when reinstalling.
  • gqintxgqintx Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    I've found many problems in this forum can be a result of a poor ground at the fuse block under the hood on drivers side. This box tends to become loose at the screw(s) where it both grounds and anchors to the vehicles body. I simply removed the screw(s) cleaned with a wire brush, replaced them assuring they are tight. (Problems Solved!!!!!!!) Also would't be a bad idea to remove the cover to this block and check all relays and fuses to make sure they are properly seated. Hope this works for many of you......Reply to me with any updates.
  • gqintxgqintx Posts: 2
    I've found many problems in this forum can be a result of a poor ground at the fuse block under the hood on drivers side. This box tends to become loose at the screw(s) where it both grounds and anchors to the vehicles body. I simply removed the screw(s) cleaned with a wire brush, replaced them assuring they tight. (Problems Solved!!!!!!!) Also would't be a bad idea to remove the cover to this block and check all relays and fuses to make sure they are properly seated. Hope this works for many of you......Reply to me with any updates.
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