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Ford Aerostar Electrical Issues

2

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  • Thanks. I will clean contact ring this weekend. Last night the left lights on dinger continued the ding after I closed door. Would go off when lights were turned off. Continued for 30 minutes now working normally. Thanks Don
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    when you replaced the starter,did you replace the starter solenoid?
    -and if you did,have you left any of the smaller wires off?>..
    if this is not the case,it sounds like the fusable link..from the battery side of the solenoid-follow the -pos- (+) post of the battery to where it bolts to a thingy on the side of the engine compartment..this is the starter solenoid..
    you will need a 12 volt circut tester..test the curcit tester by clipping the wire end to the ground(-)post on the batt..
    there should be two small wires,along with the battery cable
    -using the pointy end of the tester,pierce through the rubber coating-trying to hit the wire underneath,and see if your tester lights up--if not-pull on this wire--if the fusable link is ok,you shouldn't be able to pull it apart easily..if the wire is burnt through,the only thing holding it would be the rubber insulation..if this is the problem,go to the parts store-a REAL one,and tell them you need a piece of fusable link..use crimp connectors,or-fix it right by soldering and shrink tube--andVUIOLA!!..it should be fixed!!..good luck!!
  • 1993 aerostar. The headlights have decided to have a mind of their own. They will shut off suddenly for a few seconds and then come back on. Both on low and high beam. I drove for 1/2 hour no problem then multiple times over the next 15 miles. Never had a problem before now almost all of time. The dash lights are fine. Is this a dimmer switch problem or is there another componet that might be overheating or something?
  • Hi all,

    After weeks of winter having the heater's blower working most of the time, but not when we really wanted it, I tried pulling the multi-switch on the top/left side of the steering column, as was suggested in another post. The poster said this multi switch could be taken apart once removed, and the contacts within it cleaned. I got the switch off, but did not have the smaller star bit required to open the switch, so I just shot it full of WD-40 and tapped and wiggled the switches on it and reinstalled it.

    Since then (4 days) we've not had a single failure of the heater/turn signals/defogger that had been a regular occurance. I'd say it was definitely that multi switch. Our local parts store has the switch for about $75. I think I'll leave ours in place to see if it really goes out, then spend the $75 for a new one.
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Posts: 17
    '92 Aerostar XLT: Both front door switches will activate the 'unlock' function, but neither will activate the 'lock' function. Since I had to repair an electric window problem, I decided to tackle the annoying door lock issue. I sliced some insulation off the Pink/O & Pink/B wires and introduced a cheater battery to test the operation of the solenoid. (For some reason my Haynes manual identifies that solenoid as a 'motor' ?!?!). It behaved just as it should have as I switched polarity back and forth.

    I note in the Haynes wiring diagram for the door lock circuit that a "lock relay" (as well as an "unlock" relay) lies in the circuit between the incoming 'hot' and the switch. BTW, the switch tests good. I want to check that 'lock' relay, but I'd rather not have to pull out the entire dash to track it down. Not surprisingly, the little owners manual that came with the van was no help. WHERE should I look for that relay, and how can I positively identify it? Oh. And while you're at it, could you wash my car? :P
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Posts: 17
    You can save a buncha $$ by purchasing a small set of Torx drivers. Some years back I got a set of 5: T30, T25, T20, T15, T10 for ~ $10-15. Money well spent.
  • grummpygrummpy Posts: 1
    my mother inlaw tries to start the van and sometimes it just cranks andsomtimes it starts its not somthing the local mech. apparently can find. they live in mcallen tx. i live in il. or i would be fixen it by hit and miss like thier mech is doin ,i would be cheaper. theyve changed the fuel filter and the connector on the dash (?) for the ign. but nothing helps i keep sug. they change the nuetral safty switch and my mother inlaw states they did this.every nuetral safty switch ive seen has been on the linkage or on the trans. by the way she is 86 and her husband is 89.he is pretty bo. and they need thier van any and all sug. would be app. except the obvious they wont get rid of it.ha ha
  • jimmj43jimmj43 Posts: 17
    Have yoiur MIL do a simple test. Next time she wants to start her Aerostar (especially it's been sitting a day or two), have her just turn the ignition key "ON", and give it about 30 seconds in the "ON" position before she engages the starter. If after the delay it starts right up then chances are the fuel pump (inside the tank) is on its last legs. If the pump's diaphragm has developed "fatigue cracks", those cracks might allow the gasoline in the line to seep back down into the tank. The longer the Van sits idle, the more completely evacuated the fuel line can become - and the longer it'll take to get gas pumped back up the engine where it can do some good.
  • aerofan3aerofan3 Posts: 7
    I've an 94 Aerostar where the horn, cruise control is not working and the airbag control light is very often on. An electrician stated that I've to change the column clock spring. Ford is charging more than $ 200 for this item, too much for such an old car.
    I wasn't able to find it researching online the whole sales.
    Does anybody have an idea where to purchase?
    Thanks!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The more common problem is not the clock spring itself but the "slip ring" and/or the slip ring brushes. Disconnect the battery, remove the airbag and then the stearing wheel and clean those brush contact points on the "slip ring".

    You can sometimes verify "this" being the problem by turning the stearing wheel back and forth, widely, engine running, 15-20 times. That will often "clean" the contact area enough that those functions will work for a few drive cycles.
  • I put door locks from a 88 areo in my 95 and I think they are by the drivers side kick panel but you simply operate the locks and listen and feel for the relay noise and vibration and the other relay is beside the one that works . good luck pete
  • Inerior lights and speedometer not working someone said it could be the cluster relay switch??? what and where is it? could it call the problem??? please help as I am in dire need!!!!!!
  • Did you ever get an answer your headlights having a mind of their own? I am having the same problem with my 1993 Ford aerostar. Thanks
  • On my 1992 Ford Aerostar XL van, both of my headlights stopped working at the same time. Would that not indicate that either a fuse or a relay needs replacing? If so, 1) which one? 2) And where do I locate it? 3) And how do I access it? If you have an image you can show me that would help, but is not absolutely necessary.

    Please help me if you can. I normally do quite a bit of my driving after dark, but cannot do so until I resolve this problem.
    :shades:
  • I have a 93 aerostar that started making a donging noise,as if you left your headlights on with the car turned off.I wiggle the ignition key a little and it stops,but then when i pull out the headlight switch it starts donging,and won't stop while driving. Is there some where i can unhook this so it stops donging,or do i need a new switch some where,ignition or headlight switch?
  • 97 4.0 engine 4x4 starts and idle but anything else it stalls was told it is the coil plugs and wires need replaced. does this sound right and if so is it hard to do
  • flaco3flaco3 Posts: 1
    No singal lights, and no reverse lights are coming on. I checked the fuse box and fuse #5 is burned out but there is a short in it.
  • WHEN IN IDLE, THE BATTERY INDICATOR DROPS DRASTICALLY! THIS ONLY HAPPENS IN IDLE MODE. HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED AND FOUND THAT IT WAS UNABLE TO TAKE A CHARGE SO HAD IT REPLACED. THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. ALTERNATOR? VOLTAGE REGULATOR? HAD THE PROBLEM START RIGHT AFTER I PLUGGED MY A/C COMPRESSOR IN WHILE THE A/C SYSTEM WAS TURNED ON. THE CLUTCH PULLED IN IMMEDIATELY AS I PLUGGED IT IN AND EVER SINCE I HAVE BEEN HAVING THE PROBLEM WITH THE INDICATOR DROPPING DRASTICALLY IN IDLE. ONE MORE THING, ONLY WHEN THE AC IS ON DO I HAVE THE DROP.
  • When I turn ignition on the check engine signal lights up. As soon as it starts it goes out. Is this a problem? Can I reset this
  • Replace the alternator and the problem should be fixed.
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