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Toyota Highlander Accessories and Modifications



  • sdesde Posts: 42
    There is an excellent site to purchase Honda accessories online: . They not only list all of the accessories, but also have PDFs with installation instructions so that neophytes like me can figure out if we can do the installation ourselves.


    Does anyone know if there is some equivalent online place for Toyota accessories? We're about to buy an '05 Highlander.


  • Check out:



    Sign up for their VIP list and you will be offered discounts, usually 20% I have used them and they were prompt and efficient.
  • sdesde Posts: 42
    Thanks, desertguy.


    The site has drop-down lists where one chooses the model and year, but both of my Toyotas are 2005 models (Corolla and Highlander) and the latest model year I see is 2004. Do you think I can just order accessories for the 2004 model years?


    I guess I can e-mail them and ask...


  • As far as I know there is little change to either but I would email them to make sure. I am surprised they have not updated the site but I know the Florida hurricanes really slammed them. In fact they had a hurricane sale a couple months ago and I got a rear cargo mat and dash mat for my '04 HL @ 25% off.
  • jbolltjbollt Posts: 734
    This may not be the right forum to post this, but my post in the HL problems board seems to have gotten lost amid the controversy over the hesitation I will try here to see if anyone has an answer for me. Thanks in advance...

    I understand that the keyless remote/door locks can be programmed so that one push of the unlock button on the remote will unlock all the doors, rather than only the driver's door. I would like this functionality. Does anyone here know the process??? Thanks
  • goldstongoldston Posts: 110
    Good morning JBolt,


    I know I've seen the question, but I'll damned it I can remember the answer (must be getting old).

    As a suggestion, you might want to try the search option on leftside bar, or just call the dealership and ask for some tech. support.


    Best regards,

  • I bought a '04 Highlander in June - it's now December and I live in Buffalo and am looking for a Remote Starter - I do not need an alarm with it. I'm told I need to have one of my keys "wired in", because of the key chip. Does anyone have experience or advice on this subject? Any comments welcome
  • gklatvgklatv Posts: 35
    Yes, it is correct. Your extra key is wired-in to override the engine immobilizer. This is needed only if your model has this option, however. If your HL has a factory keyless entry with remote, you may consider combining both functions (remote start and keyless entry) on just one new remote. It sure beats carrying two on your key ring. And this, most likely, would increase the distance range of remote operation. You'll need to find a reputable installer who knows how to do that, thou. On my '03 HL Ltd. the factory security system is combined with the DEI Viper remote system and is using the Viper remote.
  • Have any of you installed the 3M ClearMask tape on the front of their HL's?

    I'm looking at doing (myself) the bumper and grill areas and your thoughts/experiences would be appreciated.

  • I once installed clearmask tape (not sure whether it was 3M). Obviously wash, rinse and dry the area where it is to be applied, and then clean with alcohol using a soft scratchless cloth. I had the misfortune, when applying one of the sheets, of the wind kicking up between the moment I removed the backing and the moment I applied the sheet to the vehicle -- even though it wasn't a dusty area, still there is dust in the air and any air-borne particles upon making contact with the adhesive will of course immediately adhere. The result was the sheet exhibited a slightly bumpy surface after it had been applied to the vehicle. Bottom line is to prevent any dust from entering the operation. Wear non- or low-lint producing clothing; contain loose hair; consider wetting-down the garage floor or driveway to better trap dust; if in an enclosed area wait half an hour for dust to settle and try to not kick up any dust; and gently wipe the vehicle surface once with a tack rag (a ~$1 sticky cloth available from paint stores that dust will adhere to) immediately before applying the clearmask (i.e., think "cleanroom"). Also, think about and practice placing the sheet in the proper spot before removing the backing -- if you get it wrong, I doubt you will be able to remove and reapply the same sheet a second time.


    Overall I have mixed feelings about the stuff. It looks really cool at first and works as advertised in preventing pitting from road debris. But after a few years its surface looses its luster and begins to look dull (at least that's the case on my roommate's Audi). My preference is to avoid it except specifically in areas subject to excessive road debris exposure. But it does look really cool.
  • Thanks LD,

    I've installed in over all the headlight assemblies on our late model cars/suv's and think it's great. I'm not sure if the material used on the headlights (thick 3M acrylic) is the same as the material ClearMask uses. The difference is of course the headlight lens is clear so I'm just wondering how it will look on a painted surface. All the crap kicked up on the road plays hell with the front bumper. :-(

    If it is the same thickness as the headlight covers, it will be a pain to install. Even for the headlights, one needs to use a hair dryer to make the contours form, plus a spray bottle of alcohol/distilled water solution.

  • After two months of searches I completed my OEM fog lights for 2004 HL.


    This is a copy and paste of directions from someone on the other forum.


    "Just for the sake of being safe, you should disconnect the positive lead from the battery. The hardest part of installing the fog lights is taking off the cover of the steering wheel column. You have to replace the headlight switch with a new one, that's why the cover has to come off. The steering wheel itself doesn't come off, just the cover around the column. Follow this link and look at page 5. The instructions in the link are for installing the RS3200 system, but page 5 shows you how to get the steering wheel column cover off. Don't worry about taking the kickplate off like the first picture shows. You don't have to do that.


    Once you get the cover off, you'll see where the wiring harness is plugged into the headlight switch. Take the harness out, then take the switch out by pressing the black claw tab in the middle of the square part. The new switch goes in place in reverse, and then you can put the column back together. Make sure you push the switch all the way back in. I didn't at first and the turn signals wouldn't turn off after I went around a turn. I pushed the stalk on the headlight switch really hard and I felt it pop in place and it's worked fine since.


    To get the filler plates in the bumper out, just take a screwdriver and start prying the from the sides. Be careful not to scratch the paint on the truck. Once you get the plate moved just a little bit you can pull it out. It's plastic and bends very easily. Just FYI, I sold these on ebay and got $15 for them. So take them out carefully and make a little cash if you can! The wiring harnesses for the fog lights are taped to the headlight harness assemblies above. Cut the tape and feed the fog harnesses down to the holes in the bumper.


    The fog lights use a type 9006 bulb. You can get them from Toyota or just go to Autozone and save some $$. You can use the blue and purple colors if you want, but if you go with no tint, don't get anything higher than 55 watt. I'm not sure the wiring harness is built to withstand any more heat than a 55 watt would create. So now plug the bulbs into the fog light assemblies and lock by turning whichever way is printed on the fogs. Plug the harness into the bulb and push the fog light assembly into the hole. It will be obvious which way and which hole the fog assemblies go in. The little black tab snaps into the little hole on the bottom side of each fog light hole. Don't worry, that'll make sense when you see it. The fog lights don't take up the entire hole, so you put the protectors on around it. Those just snap in place.


    Now the last thing to do is put the relay in. This is what took me forever to find! I wound up calling a dealership and getting some help. OK, see that little change box on the drivers side kick panel? Let that down and then pull up on it to get it to come loose then take it out. You should be looking at the fuse panel now. The relay goes on the BACK of the fuse panel. Reach up from the bottom of the fuse panel and just feel around on the back of it (you won't get shocked). The relay goes on the bottom row, in the middle slot. It should be the only slot open on the bottom row. Plug it in, put the change box back in place and you're done!


    Here are the part numbers. The cheapest place I could find online was Check some other places or call some local dealerships and see where you can get them the cheapest. These lamps don't take up the entire hole for the fogs, so the protectors are required. There may be other lamps available too, but if there are I don't know what they are.


    81211-52070 RH Fog Lamp

    81221-52070 LH Fog Lamp

    90981-13047 Fog Lamp Bulb (you can get these cheaper at AutoZone, Pep Boys, NAPA, etc.)

    81483-48010 Protector (req 1 per side)

    90987-02027 Relay

    84140-20680 Switch


    I think this should cover about everything."


    I got all parts from local dealer @ 20% off.

    If anyone interested, offers 25% off + shipping ( which comes out the same ).
  • jrfierojrfiero Posts: 123
    I don't remember seeing this mentioned, sorry if I missed it.

    Consumer Reports November 2004 did a piece on "SUV and Pickup Tires," focusing on All-Season tires (vs All-Terrain and others). Interesting reading, it included the oft-mentioned Michelin Cross Terrain (ranked 19 out of 22) and Yok Geolander (ranked 18 out of 22).

    One tidbit I found was that the tire in the test with the least rolling resistance would give 2 mpg better 65mph highway mileage than the tire with the most rolling resistance! That's 8 percent of 24mpg, a significant increase, and I can't think of any other mod which would give that improvement. Of course, the Bridgestone Dueler (orig equip on mine) has the 'excellent' rating for rolling resistance, so you can only go downhill.

    Too much data to try to convey, so if you're in the market, it might be worth a trip to the library.

    There are only two tires with 'good' or better in all 9 categories, the Dayton Timberline HT (#5 and a Quick Pick) and the Uniroyal Laredo Cross Country (#9), each $75 for the tested size, P235/70R16.

    The highest rated tire was the Goodyear Fortera HL Edition ($115), but it rated only fair in 'Rolling Resistance' and 'Ride.'
  • garygary Posts: 39
    Does anyone have any recommendations for a source for new HL Wiper Blade inserts?
  • ch1133ch1133 Posts: 43
    Driver side blade is 20" and uses standard inserts

    Passenger side is 19" and uses thin blade

    Could it not be more complicated


    NAPA auto store has 19" standard wiper with blade for $4


    Now you have both wipers with standard blades

    Walmart has standard inserts (2) for under $3
  • rlilygrlilyg Posts: 2

    So I'm looking into buying a 05 highlander and trying to decipher the hitch situation. I gather that I can get a highlander with the hitch installed, but it's twice what it should cost. The aftermarket hitches sound great. But, I just called toyota service people and aside from the fact that they don't install other people's aftermarket hitches (not surprising - jerks) they say it takes 3 hrs at $79/hour! So, I'm trying to decipher the truth since one person said they got their mechanic to install for $18. It doesn't really take 3 hrs, does it? They talked about welding, and removing bumpers. When I told him that said it takes 40 minutes for a class III hitch with no drilling, he was stumped. Was I being fed lies from a parts guy who thought a woman knew nothing? Or is it not as easy to install as it sounds.

    Also, important to note that I will only be using it for a bike rack, so I don't think I need it to be welded on...

    Thanks for your advice and help!

  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    You might check out the below site for bike racks. They have a trunk mount that works well.



    Thule is a quality mfgr. and their best is still only a hundred bucks. Once the straps are adjusted for the first time, the subsequent uses will be a snap to put on. Seems pretty expensive to get a hitch installed just for the bike rack.
  • rust1rust1 Posts: 13
    Hi, I have a hitch on order. (not from Toyota) I'll let you know how it goes.
  • lmn908lmn908 Posts: 34
    You should not need to have a hitch welded on, bumpers removed, etc. Both Draw-Tite and Hidden Hitch make quality hitches that can be bolted on without drilling, and can be installed by many qualified local shops in far less than 3 hours. U-Haul stores sometimes install hitches. Call around.


    We have kayaks that we haul around on a roof rack system. Does anyone know of front tow hooks that can be installed on a Highlander to tie down the front end of the boats?
  • rust1rust1 Posts: 13
    A proper hitch will not require welding. U-Haul had a hitch for an '04 but won't install for"legal" reasons. Anyway their hitch doesn't look nice. I ordered a Draw-Tite.

    Your front towing eyelet might work for your kayaks. In any event, have fun.
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