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Ford Windstar Electrical Problems



  • icevikeicevike Posts: 2
    This morning I had a problem with my Windstar 2000. I used it as usually the day before yesterday, it happens that we had a very hard rain down here, then yesterday I didn't used it, but the rain appeared again. So today I started it as any other day, but at the first time I had to stop, the engine turned off. I thought it was because it was cold or something like that, but then again at the first corner it turned off. Then, after a couple of meters it happened again, I noted that sometimes when I step on the break the engine simply seems to get disconnected, I needed to step on the gas and pump it up a little to recover the engine. At the third time the theft signal started to flash, so I decided to go back home. The same happened several more times, sometimes with the theft signal flashing some don't. when I got home, I stepped on the gas hard and noted that the engine hummed and then coughed, everytime I repeated the move, the engine coughed. So I think that maybe I have water on the tank or perhaps it's a problem with the gas pump, what do you think? Any ideas? :(
  • icevic, I have an 02 SEL and I have had a plethera of electrical problems including wha you discribe. To it to my mechanic did a check on the Alt and fount that there was a dead diode in side . He replaced it with abrand new Bosch Alt with life time warrenty and I have had no problems since & it has beed 3 weeks. Good luck. ;) :D :D :shades: :shades:
  • Yes John. After a drive the other day that left me waiting an hour on the side of the road for BCAA, I to directly to my mech, dicribed what had taken place this time & he found my battery was flat dead even after driving it to him (10k). Turns out that there wads a dead diod in altenator. Replaced with a brand new Bosch w/ Lifetime unlimited warrenty. I have had this on for a little better than a couple of weeks and have not had a lick of trouble. Alt that was replaced was stock Ford unit. IMO do not replace with OEM. :D :D :shades: :shades:
  • icevikeicevike Posts: 2
    Ok, thank you on the advice. I checked and it seems my fuel pump is ok, so next I will look into the Alt, it sounds very logical to me it is the failure. I'll keep you informed. ;)
  • i am having the same things going wrong with mine. have you found out how to fix this it is driving me up the wall,i have took mine to get AC fixed had new compresser and lines put in but still the same,and after putting that much money into it its crazy its not working thank you for all the help you can give.
  • Well here we are in Sep 2010 with the first post on this problem in 2007. I am have the same problem with lights that flash on and off on their schedule. The sliding doors will automatically open after they close. The driver door does it most often. help the dealer has idea; Ford has never been appraised of this problem. ya ya
  • 909geo909geo Posts: 1
    I have tried EVERYTHING ! ! !! ! I am frustrated , sick, confused, and felling like I have a real lemon. Fuses..check. Relays...check. switches...check. I am at a loss at what to do. I am somewhat good at dealing with electrical problems. I thought I was an electrician for the last 30 years. But nothing seems to check out. Besides the wipers (ft & r ), no turn signals, windows don't go up or down, the speedometer don't work, and interior lighting don't work.God only knows what else. I was told it may be a "body control module" and that there is two of them. I have no idea where they are or how to find out which one is responsible for the problems. PLEASE HELP ! ! I am going bald quickly !!!! thank you :confuse:
  • sgmaysgmay Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    I'm running into the same issue I was wondering if you were able to resolve?

    Driver side window does not go up, goes down slow. Power to the switch, was able to get the window up by jumping the switch, Sounds like a common problem, I was wondering if the switch or FEM (Front Electronic Modual) were the ultimate replacement part?
  • i have had all these same problems. had all the recalls done, changed the alt., replaced the batter and starter, all this year and some just last week. yesterday morning i went to turn the van around in the driveway to unload some things and it died when i put it in reverse. started it back up and continued on. then, we drove to my parents house for dinner. when we loaded up to leave, it died again, but i was able to restart again and go on. 15 miles later and almost home, i had complete electrical failure followed by engine failure shortly after. my power steering has been making a whining noise for month prior to me replaceing the starter and battery last week when it wouldn't turn over. now, there is nothing, no lights, no van. it is absolutely dead(no clicking either like a drained battery or alt. problems). any clue cause i don't know.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Posts: 20
    edited December 2010
    I used to help people out with Windstars, but I am at a loss on mine!
    It's a 2001 SEL with about 198,000 miles

    We replaced the alternator about 2 years ago, with one from ford brand new. The battery was replaced with a diehard about 5 months later.

    Regardless., just recently it started to buck at speeds of 35-40 mph. And the check charging system message and battery light will illuminate intermittently. (Ironically it has been in the 40s today the the electrical related message has not appeared)
    The check engine light eventually came on with the code P0305.
    It has started to make a clacking noise. I suspect a misfire though the check engine light is not blinking. I am reading maybe a misfire at Cylinder 5.( I had problems with the rear plugs and wires, the wire would get burnt by the exhaust manifold causing the spark to escape)

    When it started giving me problems related to mechanical 30k miles ago, i did the following (They went away until now)

    Cleaned MAF and IAC
    Replaced upper intake seals and isolator bolts
    Valve Cover
    Replaced all spark plugs with motorcraft.
    The wires were replaced also
    I replaced the coil pack with a new one from ford as well.
    DPFE replaced

    More recently we replaced the belt with a motorcraft replacement, the problems proceeded shortly after this.

    My suspicions are
    a loose connection somewhere
    More notably the positive wire harness, where the battery physically is connected, is somewhat corroded.
    A bad MAF, IAC or EGR valve
    Dirty EGR ports

    I took out the MAF and IAC to clean again, and cleared the codes on the computer.

    If the wire is not the issue I was thinking maybe something near the footwell, as the hood release cable may have dislodged something?

    I doubt its the alternator or battery because the car has started and not exhibited any electrical problems besides the messages on the dash.

    My concern is this electrical problem, causing mechanical as well because of miscommunication amongst sensors?
  • I removed the spark plug from Cylinder 5 which was in the front center of the vehicle. The spark plug was covered in ash deposits. I am reading to install new valve guide seals. I replaced the plug the car runs fine.
  • fmakelafmakela Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    my windstar has a multitude of electrical problems in the last two years. the check engine light has been on for two years ( did come off after a ford dealership trip - week later back on), airbag light on for 4 years - 3rd for dealership trip finally got it off, replaced two starters, one alternator, two batteries, short in rear wiper, front wiper panel, thermostat, heater core, and it continues. Yesterday i drove for approx. 30 mins. stopped at a store, while in the store i used the factory- installed car remote to start it ( it's - 20 C here) when i came out i noticed the abs and brake light indicator on dash were illuminated and the radio and heater were off, idrove the 5 blecks home with no lights, when i got home i turned off car and tried to start it again, it made a terrible clattering, clicking noise under hood andthe interior lights blinked. the interior lights blinked, the doors wouldn't unlock . i went in and left the vehicle for a bit, then started it 15 mins later and drove 7 blocks to work, the radio and lights died on the way there and when i got there i couldn't turn off headlights, i had to try to start it and the lights than turned off, whirring, clicking noise at starting attempt. what should i be looking at , other than burning the damn thing...or selling it...
  • Great advice. My door locks, gas gauge, interior lights, and all rear lights stopped working. I bought a used rear electronic module on ebay for $75. Installed it in 5 minutes, and everything works great! The dealer wanted $333.33 plus tax just for the part. Imagine what the labor would be.
    When the gas gauge stopped working, my favorite mechanic said the was the fuel sensor, located in the gas tank. It would be about $650 to repair.
    I'm so glad that I know how to calculate gas mileage, and put that repair on the back burner.
  • when staring van hazards come on every time... then i turn it off and the left turn signal stays on. i have replaced my battery a year ago, then alternator about 8 months ago, now this. what is causing my battery to discharge. now have battery on charge. i have looked on this forum and from what i can tell that their is a computer thing in the trunk compartment. is it the little black rectangle box? next to the fuel reset switch? i have been checking on some of the wiring harnesess and can't find a short. could it be alarm? then how to disable factory alarm? i also have problem just like the others like; rear pass. window not working properly, heater in back not working. could this be all with the same chip in the trunk compartment?PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • by the way... the van is a 2003 model with over 70,000 miles. just had the battery charged and it turned on ok... with the battery light on. took it to andvance to get the system checked and apperently the alternator is not charging properly. tomorow i will take out the alternator and have it checked. that way i can see if it is the alternator or the wiring harness(shorts) in the system.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Posts: 20
    edited December 2010
    What you are describing sounds like the REM module. Or rear electronic Module, that is located behind the jack assembly bracket. There is some foam insulation that has to be moved out of the way when the bracket is loosened and removed, the REM module should be accessible then.
  • here is what i have found out so far... First of if you give someone a jump or receive a jump it can mess up your batteries cells, especially in newer model cars because of all of the electronics. it can be just a minute change in the batterys' characteristics to send the (REM) rear electronic module to go haywire. it may not be instant but it will happen. I took my battery to advance and had it checked out and they said it was good. But then i decided to get a battery tester to check each cell individually and i had two cells that were off. i am charging the battery that was at 11.26 volts to get it back to 12+ and will check it again. will check back in when done.
  • so far.. all i did was replaced the alternator that wasn't charging the battery. gave the battery a slow charge on 2 amps and the van works fine... will check back in in a few days
  • :sick: My van just started to do this. Left blinker wont stop turning on by itsself. and now my van wont move out of park. what is this rem module? do i replace it?
  • 14given14given Posts: 1
    Thank You! This has been driving me absolutely crazy.
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