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Ford Windstar Electrical Problems

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  • Karen@EdmundsKaren@Edmunds Posts: 5,024
    Check here for where you can download an owners manual.

    Karen-Edmunds Community Manager

  • katinhatkatinhat Posts: 1
    Help! Electrical demons have taken up residence in my 2000 Windstar with 60K miles. I need to sell the van but no one will buy it until I evict the nasty creatures. The dome and/or interior lights often stay on when the car is turned off. When I go over bumps or turn corners the interior lights flash and the door locks go up and down and the open-door alarm starts dinging. The keyless entry no longer works. The battery is usually dead even when everything seems to be turned off. It has a new battery and alternator. The fuses have been checked. One mechanic said that it was a switch in the door and fixed that. It seemed to help for about a week. Any ideas?
  • widge3widge3 Posts: 1
    I recently had the same battery issue. After a new battery my car was again dead by morning. It was traced to the passenger seat motor for moving the seat back and forth. It was giving a continous draw to the battery. It was repalced but still the new one also would draw At this point without going back to the Ford dealer (many issues there) it is now disconnected with the seat as far back as possible. No one had heard of this before Good luck very frustrating
  • I bought the whole box for a couple bucks but since it was a different electrical connection I opened it up and just used the one gear that was stripped.
    to reset the computer you.
    First disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect the terminals.
    Then:
    1.Put van in park with parking brake on and all accessories off and start the engine.
    2.Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temp and then let it idle at least one minute
    3. Turn the air conditioner on and let the engine idle at least a minute.
    4.Make sure your parking brake is on and put you foot on the brake. With the air conditioner on put the van in drive and let the engine idle for at least one minute.
    5. Drive the van around to finish the learning process. usually you have to drive the van for over 10 miles to complete the process and make sure you do it at highway speeds also.
    I have done this to my van and car that a friend of mine has. He was told by the shop he needed a new transmission because it was surging. I asked if he changed battery lately and he said he had. I reset his computer and he has not had a problem since.....
  • I found the white box behind the ash tray, now I just need to get one at a junkyard. Thanks.

    I had the check engine light tested at AutoZone, and they gave me a list of 8 things it COULD be. Great. That wasn't very helpful, especially considering some of the parts cost $140 to replace (Mass Air Flow Sensor). The guy said I should try spraying some MAF sensor cleaner in the air flow tube and replacing the air filter. I guess I'll try that for now and see if it works.

    I could use some help on resetting the computer. After I do that cleaning on the MAF sensor, won't I need to reset the computer to see if the check engine light goes off?

    Thanks again.
  • Sorry, I didn't see this reply before writing my last message. Thanks.
  • I finally got this fixed. There is a technical service bulletin on this from Ford and here is the fix. Fuse # 16 is blown therefore the ignition off signal is not being sent to the front end module. Pin # 11 (Windstar wiring diagram) on wiring harness C-239 is shorted. The diagram will show you where the wire goes to a front harness on the fuse box from the back of the instrument cluster. I simply cut the wire at both ends and ran a new wire. I have a 1999 Windstar- hope this helps. I spent 2 weekends looking for this and finally figured it out- cost nothing to fix and only took about 30 minutes. It did take me about 3 hours to put the car back together though.
  • Not sure about the door locks but the Windstars are notorious for the interior lights going haywire. My Ford buddy told me to check the brown and pink wire circuit # 1360 under the top area of the front right c-pillar. I'll be danged, the wire was chaffed and just needed some tape. I also had a tricky fix on the headlight and blower motor posted earlier and found that my parking brake light worked which had not worked before- so maybe one fix will get both working. Good luck and hope this helps. I love it when people take the time to enter their fixes on these boards.
  • So here I am again with another electrical issue with the Windstar. This time it is not so much a electrical issue but instead being cheated by Advantage Ford in Calgary.
    My rear windows stopped working. Initially it was the right rear window followed later by the left. I had the dealership check it out. After an expensive $400 to look see, I was told both the motors have burnt out and needs replacement. Cost @ $400 each and with labor it would be over $1500.00. I walked away than thank god I did. I thought I would just not use the rear windows ever. Then recently, I was waiting for my wife who was late returning home due to a transit failure. While waiting, I started removing the switch to check it. I found that the window was working and it sure seems the switches are flaky. I just do not know how to remove the wires from the switch block. It seems crimped on or something. There are about 6 wires (have to check). If I can get it off I could certainly get a replacement.
    Is there anyone here who knows how these wires come off?

    What boils me is when Advantage Ford in Calgary put the panels back after telling me both motors were kaput, they did not do a good job. The panels were not put back correctly and they did not replace ay fasterners (plastic rivets).
  • ah98ah98 Posts: 1
    On the drive home tonight, my windstar's abs light and brake light came on. That is frequent lately, but then the air bag light came on. I thought that's new. Next was the left blinker, but my blinker wasn't on. I couldn't get it off. I tried moving the control and turning on the hazards (that didn't come on). Then the lights started to dim and more dash lights started coming on. So my first thought was that the alternator was going out. I shut the car off and tried to crank it, but it was dead. We waited about 5 minutes and tried it again and it cranked up. On the drive home the lights were dim, that made me think it was the alternator for sure, but the head lights begain to blink on and off for about a mile. They finally shut off for good. Once we reached home, I put it into park and turned the car off and the lights came on and would not shut off. That includes the brake lights and dash panel. Any suggestion on what sort of electrical problem this could be?
  • captblycaptbly Posts: 2
    :cry: ah98. When I read your problem I saw me last night. 12:00AM last night on a road with no street lights. I've never been so scared in my life. had my daughter in the car with me and was just waiting to be slammed in the back from a car behind me. (talk about a law-suit waiting to happen) Couldn't see the side of the road to pull off finally by the headlights of the car coming behind me i was able to pull over. turned off car and restarted it. Lights came back on giving me enough time to pull in to the 711 up the street. Tried to get it back home but did it again and had a police officer escort me to nearest store off the road where it is right now. Would like to see how much this is going to suck me dry and if there is a recall on what ever is the problem. I should sue Ford for scaring 20yrs off my life span. After looking at this web site i would think that ford would take responsablity for some of these problems before they kill someone.
  • You will have to reset the computer. While you are at it change your PCV valve It may fix your check engine light and thats only a few bucks.
  • azharjazharj Posts: 3
    I have 2000 windstar the door switch fuctions at its own will. Sometime functions nice while at times the light in dashboard remains on, front foot light remains off but rear foot lights are on. How to fix it, where the contact switch is located?
  • Can you give any more information about the headlights and blower motor on, with the ignition off. My Hayes manual does not show C-239 wiring harness. I did find a wire attached to the pin #11 on one of the wiring harnesses, on the back of the fuse box. this also corresponds with the fuse #16. Does this wire go to the front module, and the back of the instrument cluster? Did you have to remove the cluster? Do you remember the color code on the wire? Any additional information would be greatly appreciated.
  • I had to buy the ford wiring diagram (ebay 10 bucks) to find the wire. It goes from the back of the instrument panel to the interior fuse box. The instrument panel had to be removed, I cut the wire at both ends and connected a new wire to both ends instead of trying to find out where that wire was shorted.
  • tkelly1740: Thanks so very much for your help! I purchased a complete color wiring diagram from www.ahdol.com . With the information you provided, I was able to make the repair today, and get the van running again. This internet thing is great.
  • Hello all I am having a heck of a time with this van. The headlights stay on tailligths stays on the windows roll down and the wipers work all with the key off. The starter will not engage and I have no power to the key switch.(when I turn the thing on or off I get nothing) I took the dash apart and unhooked the light switch. The lights were still on. I pulled all the fuses in the interior fuse box out and still lights were on. I had to pull both the relays out in the battery fuse box to shut head lights off. I can take a jumper wire from pos post on battery and with the key on and all the fuses in and everything hooked up and roll the starter by jumping pos to energizer post on solenoid. Unit will not start up. I know I am not getting current to my key switch to turn on the ignition. Does any body have any idea where to look for porblem. I have chased wires now for two days and can find no fault. I even went into fusebox and looked for short. Is this a computer problem or a wire problem? I did unhook ecm by drives inside fuse box with every thing else hooked up and got a clicking inside box like a relay was working. Any advice would be a great help :sick:
  • Take a look at post # 89
  • For some reason the fuse blows that controls the Speedometer, the Brake Safety interlock, and the A/C-Heater, I'm thinking it may be the damper motor cuz when it did work I couldn't get cold air to blow even though I could hear the blower. If I replace it, it may work for a day a week or 5 mins, I don't want to waste money on fuses. Anyone have a similar problem that could enlighten me? Thanks.
  • I have a 2003 Ford Winstar with 65k miles. A few months ago the interior lights will come on and off at will when I am driving. Now the interior lights do not come on when I open the door. Also the door locks do not automatically lock. When I turn the car off the radio does not stay on like it use to. Now when I lock the car a few minutes later the horn starts blaring and the light go on and off as if someone broke into it. This happened when the door locks started working again and the radio stays on after the car isshut off. Any ideas?
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