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Ford Windstar Electrical Problems

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  • I removed the spark plug from Cylinder 5 which was in the front center of the vehicle. The spark plug was covered in ash deposits. I am reading to install new valve guide seals. I replaced the plug the car runs fine.
  • fmakelafmakela Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    my windstar has a multitude of electrical problems in the last two years. the check engine light has been on for two years ( did come off after a ford dealership trip - week later back on), airbag light on for 4 years - 3rd for dealership trip finally got it off, replaced two starters, one alternator, two batteries, short in rear wiper, front wiper panel, thermostat, heater core, and it continues. Yesterday i drove for approx. 30 mins. stopped at a store, while in the store i used the factory- installed car remote to start it ( it's - 20 C here) when i came out i noticed the abs and brake light indicator on dash were illuminated and the radio and heater were off, idrove the 5 blecks home with no lights, when i got home i turned off car and tried to start it again, it made a terrible clattering, clicking noise under hood andthe interior lights blinked. the interior lights blinked, the doors wouldn't unlock . i went in and left the vehicle for a bit, then started it 15 mins later and drove 7 blocks to work, the radio and lights died on the way there and when i got there i couldn't turn off headlights, i had to try to start it and the lights than turned off, whirring, clicking noise at starting attempt. what should i be looking at , other than burning the damn thing...or selling it...
  • Great advice. My door locks, gas gauge, interior lights, and all rear lights stopped working. I bought a used rear electronic module on ebay for $75. Installed it in 5 minutes, and everything works great! The dealer wanted $333.33 plus tax just for the part. Imagine what the labor would be.
    When the gas gauge stopped working, my favorite mechanic said the was the fuel sensor, located in the gas tank. It would be about $650 to repair.
    I'm so glad that I know how to calculate gas mileage, and put that repair on the back burner.
  • when staring van hazards come on every time... then i turn it off and the left turn signal stays on. i have replaced my battery a year ago, then alternator about 8 months ago, now this. what is causing my battery to discharge. now have battery on charge. i have looked on this forum and from what i can tell that their is a computer thing in the trunk compartment. is it the little black rectangle box? next to the fuel reset switch? i have been checking on some of the wiring harnesess and can't find a short. could it be alarm? then how to disable factory alarm? i also have problem just like the others like; rear pass. window not working properly, heater in back not working. could this be all with the same chip in the trunk compartment?PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • by the way... the van is a 2003 model with over 70,000 miles. just had the battery charged and it turned on ok... with the battery light on. took it to andvance to get the system checked and apperently the alternator is not charging properly. tomorow i will take out the alternator and have it checked. that way i can see if it is the alternator or the wiring harness(shorts) in the system.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Posts: 20
    edited December 2010
    What you are describing sounds like the REM module. Or rear electronic Module, that is located behind the jack assembly bracket. There is some foam insulation that has to be moved out of the way when the bracket is loosened and removed, the REM module should be accessible then.
  • here is what i have found out so far... First of if you give someone a jump or receive a jump it can mess up your batteries cells, especially in newer model cars because of all of the electronics. it can be just a minute change in the batterys' characteristics to send the (REM) rear electronic module to go haywire. it may not be instant but it will happen. I took my battery to advance and had it checked out and they said it was good. But then i decided to get a battery tester to check each cell individually and i had two cells that were off. i am charging the battery that was at 11.26 volts to get it back to 12+ and will check it again. will check back in when done.
  • so far.. all i did was replaced the alternator that wasn't charging the battery. gave the battery a slow charge on 2 amps and the van works fine... will check back in in a few days
  • :sick: My van just started to do this. Left blinker wont stop turning on by itsself. and now my van wont move out of park. what is this rem module? do i replace it?
  • 14given14given Posts: 1
    Thank You! This has been driving me absolutely crazy.
  • rbivinsrbivins Posts: 5
    had mine in for three recalls cruise control came back with check engine light back in for front axel rear axel came back with check engine abs lights on and motor mount needs to be replaced quoted $2000.00 to repair it was fine when it went in called ford said it was my responseability they couldnt do anything and they never mentioned anything about brake switch program
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Posts: 20
    edited July 2011
    Speed Control deactivation switch is interlinked with a leaking master brake cylinder reservoir. (The brake fluid leaks on the old switch, shorts out than catches on fire).
    Only the rear axle had a repair, and the front subframe I believe. (which I think you are referring to as a front axle). The only areas that are recalling the Windstars for the rust issues are the northern states, as down here my van is unaffected.

    ABS light and Brake Light are likely the faulty ABS module which us fellow Ford Windstar Owners are trying to have recalled. (Report your ABS troubles to nhtsa 1- (888) 327-4236
    My ABS module is faulty and I have to deal with it or come with I dont know how much money.

    A motor mount is considered something that does degrade over time and is rarely covered by any type of warranty.

    Visit www.fordwindstarrecall.info for more information. (I am not affiliated with the site I just found it useful)
  • I have a 2002 Ford Windstar, the driver-side power window stops working. If I loosen up the screws holding the window motor/regulator, so that I can move it slightly, it will work. But the next day it will probably stop working again. I have measured the volts at the motor connector while pressing the down switch, it shows about 11.5 volts for a second or two, but the motor does not turn. I have tried 2 different remanufactured motor/regulators from NAPA Auto Parts. Same thing happens with them. Could there be something wrong with the mechanics of the window assembly?
  • dthibdthib Posts: 1
    We have a 2001 Ford Windstar SEL...we have several issues that we would like feed back on:

    1.) brake light and ABS light come on periodically.
    2.) Driver and passenger windows work periodically.
    3.) Rear windows do not work at all.
    4.) Radio works intermittently, and now down to only 1 speaker working on drivers side.
    5.) A/C powers down when going up hill or increasing speed.
    6.) Power locks on both back doors no longer work. We have to manually unlock and lock.
    7.) All of the buttons on the radio dash..only the right side of each double button works...the left side of a button will not work...weird!

    Are any of these issues things that we can fix ourselves? We are not looking to put a large amount of money into labor.

    Thank you for any input that you all have.
  • rzellersrzellers Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    1999 Ford Windstar drove home and parked vehicle went into house came out and my wife could not start the van. Checked the battery connections there was corrosion we cleaned the battery cables and posts with bake in soda and water and used vaseline to lube the posts.
    No luck lights were on inside but the odometer and driver side window stopped working. PLEASE HELP with any advice you can give. Starter was replaced in 2009 battery was replaced in 2007.
  • dslayer83dslayer83 Posts: 2
    sounds like your PATS maybe messed up, look and see when you turn the key if the anti theft light is blinking rapidly in the on position. Should blink once and if there is a problem count any extra blinks after
  • ghetiaghetia Posts: 1
    If I did not know better, I would have thought you posted for me.
    I have exactly all the problems you described. What a piece of junk 2001 Ford Windstar is?

    I have spent soooo much money on this van, and it is still coming up with newer problems. I have fixed the windows, door locks, windsheld wiper motor, on and on.

    Now the latest issue at 95,000 miles is the transmission is shifting badly. First it strted off having issues between 3rd and overdrive. Now it is slipping and having issues in most all gears. Where will this stop?

    Anyone having transmission slipping problems and if so, what did you end up doing to fix it?

    Ghetia
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Posts: 20
    edited August 2011
    The transmission on these cars are notorious for failure. I don't know why you are so surprised. I have read about some failing at 30,000 miles when they were relatively new. And the majority of the time the electrical problems are the Alternators or batteries. Seldom it may also be attributed to a bad battery wiring harness (which I happened to replace)

    With this car you are going to get constant problems with the Upper Intake Manifold seals isolator bolts etc. (Clean the EGR ports while your at it)

    You will get problems with the door lock actuator and rear windows..

    And don't forget the abs module.

    Just something you learn to live with and perform your own repairs.

    My 2001 Windstar has 217,000 miles. I don't complain because i get all my money out of a van.

    When people start screwing around with ECM/PCM's is when they create problems for themselves.
    The antitheft light will blink and the car won't start if the Alternator is bad!

    1999-2000 vans without the the jewel keys may have problems with PATS but its rare.

    Check out www.fordwindstarrecall.info

    Other problems.
    http://fordwindstarrecall.info/morecodes.htm
  • it has been excatly 8 months again. the problems started last week. 1st left brake light...replaced. 3 days later, right brake light. Accidently left the headlights on while testing. Van would not start 3 hours later. Assuming not enough cranking amps but still have 12.1 volts on battery. Gave it an all night slow charge on 12volt 2amps. the next morning the van turns on fine, drives fine, no warning lights on. Later on that they after driving all day with no problems,It starts to rain heavy and accidently drive to a small puddle. an hour later, all goes haywire. electroni odometer reads ---------. ABS light on, Brake light on, AC doesn't work. what is going on... going to start checking wiring harnesess. the van still drives ok.
  • First off the battery has to be the right size and right CCA. Second off what it sounds like is you have a bad alternator or/and a bad battery. The bad alternator may be screwing around with your bulbs. When the alternator goes bad on this windstars the electricals will get funky. All the gauges will go around lights will blink, the ac won't work, the headlights might not work, among other other things. (It will buck and feel as if it is going to stall)

    We replaced the alternator on our current van about 2 years ago and it more recently went bad again. (The one we purchased before was from Ford)

    Best bet is to get a new alternator (probably rebuilt from autozone etc.) And a new battery. Junkyard alternators are probably failing too.
  • i have checked the alternator and battery. i have a battery acid tester and checked each cell. they all seem to be fine, just a little (about 1/4 cup) low in 2 cells. added a little distilled water. recharged the battery yesturday. the van idles fine and starts up quickly but have not driven it. it seem to be the REM. going to look for prices around since almost everyone in these forums seems to point at the REM. already replaced alternator 3 times and battery twice in the 3 years i have owned this van.
  • still having the problems. here's what I have noticed... Speedometer does not work. odometer reads ----------. RPM guage, fuel guage, temp guage work fine. AC does not work. ABS and BRAKE lights on and overdrive light flashes. while checking the master cylinder, i noticed that the speed control switch attached to the bottom of it. it was leaking into the wiring harness. Had to clean it since autozone do not have that part in their system. while i had the breather hose disconeted I remembered the someone in the forum notice a cluster of wires being pinched by a braket. I moved the cluster of wires from behind the battery away from the braket. (have not opend it to see if that was the problem). found a fuse that was blown (#8) under the instrument panel by the driver side door. replaced the fuse and the odometer reads 99887. somehow it added another 20,000 miles to my van. then the fuse blows. replaced again and it blows again. it takes about a minute to blow, but, the odometer, and overdrive and speedometer work in that min. I guess its time to start checking that circuit.
  • still having the problems. here's what I have noticed... Speedometer does not work. odometer reads ----------. RPM guage, fuel guage, temp guage work fine. AC does not work. ABS and BRAKE lights on and overdrive light flashes. while checking the master cylinder, i noticed that the speed control switch attached to the bottom of it. it was leaking into the wiring harness. Had to clean it since autozone do not have that part in their system. while i had the breather hose disconeted I remembered the someone in the forum notice a cluster of wires being pinched by a braket. I moved the cluster of wires from behind the battery away from the braket. (have not opend it to see if that was the problem). found a fuse that was blown (#8) under the instrument panel by the driver side door. replaced the fuse and the odometer reads 99887. somehow it added another 20,000 miles to my van. then the fuse blows. replaced again and it blows again. it takes about a minute to blow, but, the odometer, and overdrive and speedometer work in that min. I guess its time to start checking that circuit. By the way the alternator is fine and battery still goood
  • Ford has a recall on the leaking speed sensor on the master cylinder.
    It came out after I replaced mine.
    The brake fluid leaking on the wiring caused all kinds of problems including no cruise.
  • Read this website www.fordwindstarrecall.info,
    it DESCRIBES your very problem.

    I believe ford will replace your SCDS switch under recall.(unless you want your car to catch on fire and burn your house down) Leaky master cylinder can supposedly cause this overdrive problem...

    ABS and Brake are probably due to a faulty ABS module
  • in doing some more investigation the culprit is the speed control disconection switch (scds). Being an electrician... i checked all the circuits that corespondent with #8, and the short was indeed in the scds. when i took the part out, it has brake fluid on it and on the back side it had a burn bubble. who knows how long it would had been before the little fire could have spread. i have an appointment with the recall dept. at the ford dealarship on tuesday. so in the meantime i will just use it for extremly short trips to the store.
  • yes it was the scds. burnt and fried... took it to the dealership and both the switch and hareness replaced on recall for FREE. Still don't know what happened to my odometer adding over 15k miles after replacing the fuse
  • I have a 2001 windstar. It always starts cold. If you drive it around on errands, sometimes it will spin over, but won't start. it. It can sit as long as 2 hours after running around and won't start. After you try to start it and it just spins, you can let it sit for about 10 minutes and it starts fine. Reason it won't start is because it is'nt firing, there is no spark. I have replaced the coil pack, the PCM, and the PCM relay. I just don't know what to try next. It runs fine when started and it never stalls.
  • You mention that it doesn't stall so that leads me to believe it is not the IAC.

    But it might be worth replacing here is info on it.

    http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar02.html
  • I have replaced the IAC, but for a different reason. You can completely unplug the iac and it will still fire and run.
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