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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems

2002 T/C Limited- Passenger side power sliding door works intermittently - works during warm weather, not when cold. If you open it manually, feels very heavy. Seems like I need to lubricate something somewhere. Driver side power door works, but also feels heavy when you open/close it manually. Anybody had this problem? Thanks
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Comments

  • eric6eric6 Posts: 10
    Hi,

    I have posted a couple of times with this issue. I have a 2002 T&C EX. I have the same exact issue. Only problem, it gets worse. Mine started off like yours. On a cold morning it would pop open about a half inch and stop. Now it happens all the time regardless of temperature. I replaced the battery, thinking that was the issue. The battery did not solve the problem.

    I took it to the dealer. They told me the clutches were not properly releasing. That is why it was hard to open manually. They also said the control cable was "binding".

    The dealer gave me an estimate of 600 dollars. About 300 for parts the rest for labor. I am going to have to live with it for now.
  • boiloffboiloff Posts: 14
    thanks eric6. took apart the door yesterday. removed the motor - door slides smoothly. took apart the motor/clutch assembly - found some white powdery stuff on the face of the clutch plates. did'nt know if this was normal, so i wiped them off. same problem.
    my wife will have to live with this problem for now, till i find another nice saturday afternoon to tinker around.
  • Inherited 97 Town and Country SX from my grandparents estate. No problems with the tranny. Put almost 8000 miles on towing a 1200lb popup camping trailer. I have the 3.3 liter engine. I only tow it in 3rd gear. I have been told to change from atf3 to atf4.....I plan to do so at 75,000miles. The dealership told me to only tow in the third gear as this will help with prolonging the tranny life, less hunting and searching by the tran. The only problem that I have noticed is an occasional groan or creek by the passenger side sliding door when going over bumps. I wonder if the door needs to be adjusted or if this is just the interior plastic?

    Greg
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 224
    Greg, For your abnormal sound, you might try silicone spray on the door seals. Also I'd recommend you install an auxiliary transmission cooler if this has not already been done. In '99 they became a factory item and improve transmission longevity by lowering the transmission temperature which is more important when towing in warm weather especially on longer up-hill grades. Roy
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "Also I'd recommend you install an auxiliary transmission cooler if this has not already been done. In '99 they became a factory item..."

    Really? I didn't know that. Were they a "factory item" as part of a towing package or were they included on every van?

    With the above in mind, I wonder if the reason why the tranny in our 1998 has lasted so well is that it's spent most of its life either in the NYC area or in New England, and as such hasn't gotten all that hot. I mean after all, during my regular back and forth commuting last summer I can only think of a handfull of days where I needed to use the A/C. Hmmmm.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Is the transmission cooler expensive to have installed and would you recommend a transmission fluid change with a atf +4 at the same time? And was the change in 99 part of a towing package or every van. I live in the UP of Michigan and our summers a warm, but not very hot. I only travel short distances when towing (3 hours or less one way). I still need to put on a new fuel filter and plugs and wires. I am very close to the 75,000 mile mark.

    Greg
  • It is not expensive, and if you are handy, you could do it yourself. I'm pretty sure if you have a factory tow package it would already be there. At 75,000 miles your transmission should have been serviced at least once already, since you do tow with it. If your vehicle was built before the use of ATF+4, the service interval was 30,000 miles for "normal" use. Now ATF+4 vehicles have a lifetime interval for "normal" use, and 48,000 miles for severe use.(towing) If you tow, every 30,000 miles with ATF4 would be cheap insurance.
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 224
    The '99 Voyager I looked at for a friend had the cooler without a tow package. They are fairly simple with kits in the $40-$100 and would take a mechanic an hour or a little more to install. The cooler goes behind the grill and the transmission fluid return from the radiator goes to the auxiliary cooler and a new return from the auxiliary cooler to the tranny. Roy
  • I haven't had the problem with the hatch but have had problems with the sliding doors. I've had a problem with mine either not openning when you press the button or they open then close immediately. I've had the GC at the dealer 4 times for this - of course they can't replicate the problem. The last time I told them the doors could have jammed the kids. They found some TSB on the door issue & reprogrammed the module. I haven't noticed problems since, however, I haven't been on a long trip since then & after long trips is when the problem occurred in the past. Good Luck!
  • Ok so i have a 2003 Chrysler Town and Country LXi that we bought barely used in 04. it had under 15k on it and was spotless in and out...
    after wrecking our first T&C LX in a 7 car pile up and with no injuries we decided um....well get another...we tried every tactic possible when we found the 03 LXi and they finally gave in and we got the price from 21k to just over 19k (thank-you thank-you...lol)
    We have not had one problem since but recently have run into our first mishap and have no idea what to do...
    We are in Keywest Florida and have limited times to get to the dealership...and so i thought this would be the best way to see whats up with it..
    The left side backdoor which is power was cracking open but then stopping instead of opening all the way....today about a month after this started it is opening all the way....but not closing and stopping right before it moves back in towards the van to close and click shut...
    Can anyone give me some insight, a quick fix, anything as i have no time to get to the service department and dont feeling like losing an arm and a leg over this problem...

    also my other problem is when it rains my accelerator foot and the passengers left foot get wet after a rain? has htis happened to anyone here.....the carpet get soaked back where the carpet meets the back on the center console..

    thanks very much for your time....sry i didnt get to the point right away lol....any help is appreciated..
    apart from that has been a great car! suprisingly powerful and good on gas...about 20.5-21 mpg here lately..which is nice when gas is 3.30 a gallon here

    image
  • chuckgchuckg Posts: 69
    A repair for the sliding door has been discussed and solved. You can read about it here:

    http://www.redhouseon7th.com/howto/2001CaravanDoorRepair/

    As far as your water on the floor is concerned, here is a message 97xpresso posted on Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions forum:

    "I had this problem with my 2001. The front passenger carpet would get soaked from highway speeds pushing water back into drain tube, thru the firewall onto the carpet. Part # 56000724AB is a hose which curves downward that slips over existing drainpipe. About $7.00. Make sure that the hose is slipped on all the way to firewall to insure bottom notch in pipe is covered. On very hot humid days I still get a drips of condensation from the evaporator housing, but nothing compared to the thouroghly soaked carpet of before."

    Give it a try.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    If your drivers side is also getting wet after rain, your drains in the wiper cowl area are probably clogged. If the passenger side only is getting wet after AC use, then the above mentioned post may be the solution. But I think 2003's already have that hose installed on the evaporator drain tube.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Check the electric control in the lower support bracket of the sliding door. Mine was loose and when unplugged and replugged the door worked again.
  • My 2002 Town & Country has the power sliding doors. They can be opened fine by pressing the buttons on the overhead console and from the key remote. However, the buttons located near the 2nd row seats (on the B-pillars) stopped working, both left and right at the same time.

    This happened about the same time one of the headlights burned out. The minivan was also recently vacuumed, and also our two kids have played in it about the same day, but I don't see any loose wires.

    I checked the power door fuse and it was OK. I also disconnected and reconneted the negative battery terminal, but nothing changed. Did anybody have a similar problem?

    Thanks.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I don't own one with power doors, but perhaps the child-safety interlock system got reset inadvertantly so that they cannot be opened with switches at the doors from inside the van?
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    We had the same problem on our '05 van. It ended up being that our kids were playing in the van and pushed the on/off button near the HomeLink buttons. I didn't even realize the van had this feature until I started to look at why the doors didn;t open.
  • Thanks!!
    This was the exact problem. We had the kids playing in the minivan too. And that button is not very obvious.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Glad I saved you a trip to the dealer!!!
  • erucehteruceht Posts: 26
    My power sliding door will not open in cold weather. It will unlatch when I push the open button but will not open the rest of the way or close if already open. In warm weather it often works but not always. It is not difficult to open manually. Found a motor on ebay but the seller told me it was not a motor problem but a tape track wiring problem. Anyone else had experience with this?
  • Have you found a fix to your problem? I have the same issue in my T&C and with the cold weather the sliding doors get "stuck". I have lubricated the latches today with WB40, thinking that the lubricant might help the metal parts to move when they are cold. Still don't know if this will be the fix.
  • My 2001 T/C Lxi does the exact same thing. Poor design. I'm going to Toyota/Honda for my next vehicle. I'm doing some experimenting on this issue and will let you know if I find out a solution.
  • After 2 years of struggling with the issue, I finally had my garage guy look at it. The problem was caused by the motor/gear unit. I replaced the unit, and now the door opens/closes reliably, but even more important, it is much easier to open and close by hand.

    Unlike the first electric sliding doors (for example on my 1994 Olds Silhouette) the drive is disengaged when the door is operated by hand, making it very easy (just like a mechanical door).

    But the Chrysler smarties ten years later couldn't just copy what works well!
  • I am having a problem with my 2005 Town and Country passenger side power sliding door.

    Both doors worked very well, although they were hard to open and close manually, at least for me. A friend tried to open the door manually one day from the outside and I don't know if she was too hard on it or what, but after that the door only opens about 8 inches and at that point also the warning lights stop working.

    After that if you push it manually for about 4 inches, the warning lights start working again and if you push any of the buttons it will open completely. When I try to close it, it closes up to the same point that gives me trouble when opening up, then everything stops working and I have to push it manually to close it completely and then it latches and the warning lights work again...

    Anybody has any idea if this is something we could fix easily?? It is as if the electronic part that makes the door move doesn't work in that spot... :confuse:
  • It should still be under warranty. Take it back to the dealer to fix. :shades:
  • birdibirdi Posts: 2
    Vandals broke the glass of our left rear side window, the large vent window with the motorized opener. :( We hope to find a replacement at a pick apart yard. I would like to know the degree of difficulty this job is for a do it yourselfer. What tools am I going to be needing for removal and replacement?

    thanks, Robin
  • birdibirdi Posts: 2
    Pardon me for not saying so, but this is a 1994 Chrysler Town and Country. I am wondering if the rear/side windows are interchangable with Caravan or Voyager windows? Which years? Our van has motorized window openers, but I'm not sure about the Dodge and Plymouth models. If we can replace the window ourselves it will save us a lot of expense. I've seen dodge/plymouth/chrysler vans in the salvage yards, I just need to know if our project is do-able. thanks
  • 2001 Town and Country. The sliding doors will operate using the keypad and also by using the overhead buttons, but the buttons actually at the doors in the middle seats will not operate the doors. This occurred on both sides simultaneously. Is there a fuse somewhere to replace? Thank you so much.
  • I picked up my 01 T&C LXI from the dealer yesterday. Same problem. It was cold here in Tampa last week and I noticed that the p/s/doors will not work in the mornings, just only in the afternoons, when the weather warms up. I had other things wrong with the vehicle sway busings, transmission celunoid etc. So I got them to check the doors as well. Their findings was that it is the latch and they want close to 300 dollars to fix it. I had the latch on the left hand side done last year at Brandon dodge, and I checked my invoice again. I had the parts supplied and fitted for 90 dollars. The only drawback now is that since United Auto, my warranty company declined the door issue, Coutesy Chrysler still had me pay 85 dollars for the diagnostics. Interesting point now is that the door has been working since yesterday without any problems until the temp drops again.

    And, yes it is hard to manually shut the doors.

    On another not if anyone can answer this for me please, dealer says car backfires really badly, but to me it is fine as I listen by ear. I have 71k miles on it, some places tell me plugs are not due for changing until 90k miles and my dealer tells me it should have been changed at 60k miles.
  • Make sure that the on/off switch on the overhead counsel is on. Also, make sure that the van is all the way in park. I had a problem like this once and found out that the gear shifter was not all the way in park, even though the P had the square around it. Another time, the overhead counsel power door switch was off, which didn't allow the doors to be opened by automatic from the 2nd row. :shades:
  • Thank you! That was it! How simple. The overhead switch was on off instead of on. Thanks so much.
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