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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems

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Comments

  • jlhaah1jlhaah1 Posts: 1
    I'm having the exact problem. About four days ago, noticed that the passenger window would not go down. A couple of days later, it started working again. Now last evening, the van would only give me a clicking sound when tried to start it. So you think it's the battery? Is it a bad battery or is something not charging the battery as it should? I haven't gotten a battery light inside.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Clicking sound when trying to start is usually battery or starter.

    How old is your battery? Where are you located? 5+ year old battery plus hot weather could mean it's time for a new one, though I've usually gotten 7-8 years of service out of an OEM battery.
  • Our pinging noise we had when we turned off our engine to our Chrysler 2008 T&C was a result of a bad catalytic converter and/or resonator as per a Chrysler service bulletin through dealer connect/service/tech connect/case #K82543424.

    I had to find this info on my own. I was stopping everyone who owned a Chrysler T&C asking about the clicking noise. I even had a lady who was going to go to the dealer with her T&C that didn't click to show them that they don't all do that. It was a horrific 13 months of researching etc.

    Hope you can get yours fixed.
    Charlene Fransen
  • Like many of T & C owners, I have gone through several sets of brakes and rotors. Chrysler finally woke up and is giving a partial refund for the repair work done under 36000 miles. Now, the rear airconditioner line assembly is leaking and it cost me over $400.00 to get it repaired. I have sent the bills to Chrysler asking for a rebate. Will let you know how I make out. Also, I have never been happy with the way the transmission shifts when the engine is cold. Dealer said it is normal due to some new design in the "torque convertor". Sounds like B. S. to me.
  • itoyltitoylt Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 T&C. I have had electric problems for the last seven months which has gotten worse. Initially it started out with the panel lights flickering, then the reading lamp going on and now the car not starting. At first the car wouldnt start then after the second or third attempt it would start then for a day it wouldnt start and now it is completely dead.All this time they would continue to diagnose however it has never corrected the problem. Now the dealership replaced what they call a module which they though for sure was the probelm however today they told me that that didnt work. They think a mouse might have gotten into the engine and chewed a wire. Sounds kind of strange since this problem has been happening for the last seven months. I just need them to fix it. I have a young son that is sick and we need to get him to medical appts and I need a car that works. Cant beleive I continue to pay my car payments and I have no car to drive. This sounds like the Toyota problem.......... last time I buy a Chrysler. I never had this problem with the Dodge
  • So they investigated my car after the fire. The dealer called and said that the investigator found nothing wrong with the vehicle but after a test drive felt that it was not safe to drive! Then they asked me to have it towed off their lot. It has been 5 weeks and still no car to drive. Took it to a second dealer to find the problem and no luck. They can replicate the problem including fire, but can't seem to fix it! Chryslers solution was to replace the brakes and rotors. Done and still having same problem. If it wouldn't mess up my credit I would just stop making payments and let them come and get it!
  • bluecat25bluecat25 Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    I have been dealing with the power door locks not working off and on for about 3 years. When it first started, I could pull the fuse closest to the front of the driver's side (the IOD fuse, look in the lid of the fuse box.) Leave it out for a few minutes then put it back in. Your door locks will probably start working. When I first started doing this, the locks might work another 6 months - 1 year without having to do it again. Unfortunately, now my driver's window is not powering down, and when I pull the fuse it will reset the locks, but only for a very short time. I have been resetting them daily. So, I'm now trying to find a new solution. I hate to buy the new control module because everyone who has done so says it fixes nothing. Good luck everybody! I think this is a recall issue.
  • I have a 2008 T&C that we leased in Nov. 2008. After about 6 months I had to have the shifter assembly replaced because it would get stuck in gear and/or park. At 17k miles I had to replace my front brake pads (naturally I'd paid my mechanic neighbor cash to have it done literally *days* before the notice came out). This summer I had to have the a/c fixed (I think that was a recall issue maybe) and at the same time they fixed a few other issues that were also recalls (wiring harness and radiator cap, I believe). At 22k miles I had to have my rear brake pads replaced. Now they squeak and squeal like you wouldn't believe, but whatever. There's a bulge in my rear bumper that gets worse when it's hot (something I noticed, but didn't really think about until I saw another complaint about it here). NOW, I'm having an issue with my power steering pump (or so they say). My whole front end grinds and groans whenever I'm turning. It started out not that bad and would go away after a few minutes. I called the dealer to schedule an appointment and was told it would take at least a day to fix it, in the meantime I was out of luck getting a loaner (even though it's still under warranty). Tried another dealer and was told the same thing about a loaner. The service manager at the 2nd dealer actually said to me that he works for the dealer, not Chrysler and he doesn't stand behind any product that Chrysler makes (and they sell!!). At that time I spoke with the dealership manager, who also told me very politely that I was going to have to pay for a rental car myself while they fixed my warranty issue because Chrysler would not reimburse them the cost of the rental (about $25 for a day). Maybe it's a coincidence that they actually have an Enterprise Rental desk in their service dept. Frustrated, I called Chrysler Headquarters and filed a complaint. They had me go to yet another dealer to get a problem code, so they could process my request for a loaner car. The 3rd dealer told me my van was fine to drive and they'd call me when my part came in. Spoke to CHQ again, who told me they were still investigating and would get back to me. In the meantime, my van now makes the grinding/growling noise constantly, it's been almost a month since I first called about the problem and I still haven't heard anything from CHQ. I'm going with the attitude that I'll drive it until the wheels fall off, or they come up with a loaner car for me. At this point, I'm fairly certain the problem is now more than just a pump, but at least I have a record that I was there for them to check it out and was told it was ok to drive (now I'm not so sure...).

    Up until this last problem, I LOVED my van (even with all the other issues) and had every intention of buying it when the lease expired. But after the crappy customer service regarding this last issue, I'm done with Chrysler. I cannot believe that Chrysler would be so willing to throw away a loyal customer (we've owned and/or leased 4 Dodges, and now this POS) over giving me a loaner car for 24 hours. The whole reason I leased the darn thing was so I wouldn't have to deal with problems like this. This is our "family" car and without it, we cannot go anywhere as a family. Heck, I can't even legally take my kids to school. Maybe I'm being a little pigheaded about getting a loaner, but come on! if I wanted to pay for a rental car every time my van needed service, I wouldn't have leased a car with a warranty. If it was a problem that could be fixed in a few hours (say between the time school starts and finishes) I also wouldn't have a problem waiting in their oh-so-comfortable (/sarcasm off) waiting room. But this whole lack of responsibility over what amounts to about $25 (for a rental for a day, or how about they just give me a freaking demo or something?!?) on the part of the original dealer and manufacturer is ridiculous.

    I wish I could go after them for the lemon law, but since all the problems are with different components, I have no recourse. I'll finish out my lease term, turn it in and then fight tooth and nail if they try to charge me that damn disposition fee...
  • I feel your pain MINIVAN MAMA as most of us on this list do. In less than 5 years I have had to have done: New rack and pinion (probably the cause of your grinding noise as it was mine) tie rods and bushings, both power window controls, one power sliding door control, new radiator, new alternator, several batteries, AC repairs, stereo repairs, dashboard repairs, brakes and the list goes on and on. The last time round my van was in the shop for 11 days waiting on parts. If I didnt have an extra car, Id be SOL!

    There is also a rattling sound under my van that is probably from the exhaust but no one has been able to find it yet and is common on these vans. Not sure if you have this too or not? Warrantee doesnt fix "rattles" or so it seems. Gets worse when hot and goes for about 15 seconds after you stop. No love lost when I trade mine in, extended warrantee up in less than 5k miles. That gosh I bought that or my T&C would have bankrupted me.

    Probaby heading for a Honda or Toyota next time round. NEVER another Crysler T&C!!!!

    MiniVanDaddy
  • ocnjocnj Posts: 1
    My 09 Town & Country has been in the shop four times in the past 9 weeks. This past visit was due to loose heat reflectors. The service manager told me that they became loose "somehow" so they raised the engine and fastened the heat reflectors. Can someone explain to me heat reflectors and raising the engine to fasten? I am a bit worried as to the safty of this vehicle.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Heat reflectors, or heat shields, are used to protect sensitive or combustible parts of the vehicle from heat that comes from the exhaust system or the engine itself. The most common place you'll see this is above the catalytic converter, between it and the passenger compartment. Catalytic converters need to be at high temperatures for them to work properly, so the heat shield serves to keep the floor of the vehicle cooler and, in an extreme case, keep the carpeting from catching fire (though this is probably an extreme case).

    It is also common to use heat shields around exhaust headers or pipes in order to protect nearby wiring and also to try and lower the temperatures in the engine compartment.

    These heat shield are usually tack-welded or riveted together and similarly attached. It is not unusual for these welds or rivets to break loose which allows the heat shield to rattle. "Raising the engine" to refasten them may be needed depending on the location of the attachment points.
  • I have already had my van in for at least 4 recalls. All of which my van had the problem. One problem they could not find which was the side doors coming open by themselves or detecting an obstacle and it not being there. Not fixed and cant find it. My back wiper just broke apart while using it....they dont believe that happened and it's not replaced yet, they said it had to be ordered and "coded" so I do not have to pay for it.

    Today it's making awful noises....one when shifting from park to reverse, etc. It's not grinding but a weird noise like something winding down. Next it always sounded like a airplane landing when I went to stop now it's worse and making a high pitch noise and some other funky noise. They say it's probably the brakes and roters and have to pay $100.00....better than full price but that is not fair. I'm hoping that when I take it in tomorrow with my list of issues I can get out of the $100.00. I dont want to be irrate but the van has been a nightmare from day one!
    Anyone have luck getting out of paying?
  • There is a TSB for you door problem. They have to flash your van and it will fix your problem.
  • I have 2008 T&C. have p0441 code. Have checked for loose fuel cap, looked at vacuum lines and all seems well. Is there a cannister on this engine and if so where is it located ? How do test the purge solenoid? Any other common causes?
    Thanks
  • How much of a problem is it to remove the door panel?
  • Passenger window via the passenger switch only went down about four inches, then nothing. Driver switch didn't do anything to the passenger window. Then went to YOU TUBE and saw a video. Open the passenger door, hold down the switch and close door while holding down the switch. BAM, it worked. Why????
    Window still stops working with the door closed, but open it and hold the switch in the position you want to go, it will work. WHY?
    Whats wrong with my window? Anyone got any ideals.
    Thanks
    Butch
  • I have a 2002 Town and Country limited minivan. The right front power window has stopped working fortunately, it has stopped working in the up position. The left one is working, and for awhile the right one would work by using the controls on the left side and sometimes the one one the right door. It seemed to have lot's of zip when it would work, so I don't think it is the motor, but what do I know. Any ideas!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Look at posts 230, 239, and 245 in this thread.
  • How do you find post's 230,239 and 245 ?
  • where is the home link buttons located, it might be the cause of the problems that i have with the sliding doors which i can only open manually. wwent to dealer and the want to charge me up ungodly
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Use the "Go To Msg #" dialog box at the top of the thread.

    Or, use the page selection icons near the bottom.
  • ok i have a 2001 dodge grand caravan sport and im replacing the bumpers(front and back). i found a guy who is parting out a 01 TC for real cheap. i want to know if the front bumper will fit on my van? i dont care if its a chrysler. the bumper is only $50. and thats the cheapest ive found it anywhere :( :sick:
  • del84del84 Posts: 1
    I fixed mine the same way. The wire was broken in two spots so make sure you check really good when you have it disassembled. :D
  • Update on this. Found a site that says Service Bulletin 08-040-04 is supposed to fix this problem. I am about to try it out so I will let everyone know.
  • Update. The Service Bulletin 08-040-04 worked. The technician originally said it was only if the alarm went off when your tailgate goes up, but I told him to keep reading. It affects the door locks too. They ended up putting in this update and an additional one to make the remote work after the first update was installed. It cost me $73 for both updates and was worth every penny.
  • This info was very helpful, i did carefully take the panel off and took the motor itself to O'Reilly and come to find out there were 2 problems i was having. 1 the contacts were dirty, once i got them cleaned the 2nd issue i had was the threading was bad. No i know all i need now is a motor.

    Thanks!!!
  • Where did you have the service bulletin installed? The dealer wanted to do a diagnostic and an upgrade at $70.00 each.
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