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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems

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Comments

  • artgpoartgpo Posts: 483
    It is heartening to know that Chrysler's QC has not improved one bit since the '70s. My barber had a new Dodge Omni on one side and the Plymouth Horizon nameplate on the other.

    While this may seem insignificant to most people it should be a major concern. What other parts were mixed/omitted during assembly?

    Quality testing? By whom?
  • Both power sliding doors don't work, but have seperate issues. The passenger side will open about 4 in and then stop. When closing it will not pull forward but will pull shut itself at about 4 in from being completly closed. The driver side does not pull back or forth at all. The interior lights do not sense the door being opened. They stopped working about 6 months apart from eachother. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Any idea of the door wiring would be great. Thanks.
  • I am having the same problem with the passenger slider.

    According to the dealership where I took it -thiefs, the whole lot of them - they said it is a wiring harness short -and about $300 to fix.

    I got angry and called Chrysler and told them about the POS car I bought and the problems I have had getting the car up to a working model. I bought the car 10/2006 and in less that 12k miles, I have had to rebuild the entire exhaust system, the struts have been replaced, the DVD system, seat belts - the works.

    I am thinking when we pay down our car loan, we are getting the heck away from this car.

    Be forewarned -the harness is not covered by any warranty I can find, except for the basic, which expires after 3 years (from the date it was put into service).
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Be forewarned -the harness is not covered by any warranty I can find, except for the basic, which expires after 3 years (from the date it was put into service).

    If you bought it in 10/2006 wouldn't it still be covered by the 3 yr/36,000 mile warranty?
  • I did buy it in 2006 - but it went into service sometime in 2005. I have gotten Chrysler to pay all but $100 of it - but I am not done with this. I think it is ridiculous that there is so much wrong with this car -- and the dealership is wretched. They argue every little thing and its just getting ridiculously old.
  • '04 T&C Left Rear Electric Door Problem
    We have an '04 T&C Limited, and the left electric door just started acting up the same way - The motor whirrs, the door opens about 5 or 6 inches and then the motor just cuts out and dies. When you manually open the door all the way and press the button for the electric door, it closes... until it gets to the same point 5 or 6 inches from being closed. And again, the electric motor just dies as if it's finished doing the job. It does this no matter which switch is used to activate it - either one of the keys or the overhead console switch.

    I did notice that the point where the electric door motor dies is at the exact point where the back roller hinge (inside the door just below the window) snaps into the fully open position.

    I tend to think that it's a defective switch, but as the door motor 'dies' at the same point in the travel no matter which direction the door is moving in, I am not sure if it's an electrical problem, or if there's a mechanical problem making the door sensors 'think' that it's at a place where it is supposed to stop.

    And no, the door doesn't reverse direction like it does when there is something in it's way.

    Is this the same thing that was happening to you?
  • Passenger side electric sliding door. The door hits a "stop" before completing the closing. The clunk grrrrr click occurs but the door is not pulled shut. If I manually start to open the door I hear the clunk grrr click but cannot get the mechanism to pull the door shut. If I use the buttons, the door will start to open, then stop and I hear the clunk grrrrr click.

    Also, when the door is closing (from full open) it stops at the end and looks like it is torquing during the clunk grrrrr click.

    Anyone have any ideas???
  • It was the manual door latch. You know how the door (any car door) gets mixed up and thinks its closed when its really open, then you shut the door and it bounces off the latch receiver. Yeah that was it. It didn't ring a bell until my 13 year old son says "hey dad, I think its in back of the door." I took one look and started shaking my head :blush: , been here before, should have looked. My wife had to drive around this morning with one of the kids holding the door shut. :shades:
  • Hi! So now the door works correctly? How was the manual door lock keeping it from opening or closing all the way? I have this same problem, the door only opens about 6" & then stops, or when it's closing it goes until about 6" short of closing & then stops. If you've figured it out please elaborate. Thanks, ReBiker :confuse: :confuse:
  • jess82jess82 Posts: 4
    I'm looking for information on the replacement of the motor assembly for the power side door. Found a site selling a replacement motor which is stated as being better than OEM at half the cost. Before I order the motor, I would like to take out the old motor and see if I can free up the clutch. I need information on the location of the motor and replacement instructions.
  • Hi Jess82! I think the site you need is as follows
    http://redhouseon7th.com/howto/2001CaravanDoorRepair/index.html

    Hope this helps. :)
  • jess82jess82 Posts: 4
    Thanks for getting back to me. This talks about replacing the door latch however the pictures show me what I needed to know about the door motor location.
  • My problem doesn't sound like your problem. Yours sounds more mechanical. Mine was just stupid. With mine, the latch mechanism (just like the one in your front doors) was in the closed position. It was not able to accept the "hook" that's on the car frame. When it closed, instead of "receiving" the hook, the latch would "bang" against the hook. The door would come 1 inch from closing. All I had to do was hold the door handle in the open or unlatch position and then move the latch to be in the "receive" position.

    It sounds like yours is binding somewhere. It could be the motor or it could be a "track" problem.
  • I've got an intermittent problem with the power door locks on the driver's side of the van not working. The passenger's side are both working fine. It's hit or miss (mostly miss) whether they will lock or not, and sometimes when they don't, I can get them to work by going through the lock/unlock cycle several times with the button on the door. They will always unlock. I'm guessing that there is a bad ground or possibly a broken wire, but have no idea where to start looking. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • Did you ever resolve this? I have the same problem on a 2005.

    Thanks
    Steve
  • No, I haven't... and now the left-side automatic door function doesn't work at all. It still opens manually (and it's easy - there's no resistance like other posters have had), but none of the buttons now even produce any type of reaction/sound at all. And now the right-side automatic door motor is whirring for a few seconds before opening the door. I'm wondering if that is an omen of things to come.

    I'm bringing the van in for service in 2 days (state inspection & emissions, oil change) and I'm tempted to ask them at that point in time about the left-side automatic door... but I don't want a huge bill for 'diagnosis' time. I'm tempted to just follow the directions of an earlier posting and replace the switch inside the door myself. According to the post the switch was only about $150 and took a few hours to replace.

    I used to work on car electrical problems myself and I still have the tools, so I think it would only take me about an hour to replace the door switch. The trouble is that without an electrical schematic or troubleshooting guide you're 'blind' in trying to figure out these types of things - you don't know which wires lead to which switches or are controlled by what circuits....
  • 2002 LXi driver's side power window quit working. Schematic says most likely cause is motor. Chilton book not specific on how to remove door panel for motor access. It says pry off things that I can't pry off without danger of breaking. Anyone able to help with step-by-step procedure? Thanks.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Don't know about your specific vehicle, but I have removed the door panels on several cars to fix things. On all of them the process was similar.
    1. Remove the armrest on the door, which is bolted through the panel to the door itself.
    2. Remove anything else that looks like it's bolted. Look for round plastic caps that are sometimes used to cap the screw/bolt heads.
    3. Around the periphery of the door panel, it's usually held in place with a series of plastic (maybe metal) push pins or spring clips that clip into a slot or hole on the door panel are are pressed into a hole in the door. These need to be pried out of the door. A small putty knife sometimes works, but you may need something stiffer, like maybe a small pry bar. Run the putty knife around the edge of the door panel between it and the door and feel for where the pins are. When you find one, pry gently. Sometimes they pop right out of the hole on the door, but sometimes they tear through the back side of the door panel.

    Have fun!
  • For some reason I can't seem to find anyone who's having a similiar issue as me.. My problems not that the passenger door won't open, it's that it has to be shut manually. When I try using the remote or the button behind the passenger side to close the door there's a noise as if it's popping into place and then after an inch I get a sound like a latch clicking and I have to manually shut it.. I checked to make sure it was in the on position on the front control panel and the child restraint wasn't activated.. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
  • Did this software fix the problem with the door locks permanently??? I'm going to be charged $50.00 at one dealer and $100 at another dealer for the fix. They say it takes about 30-45 minutes. We did pull the IOD fuse and stayed fixed for about a month. We need a permanent fix.

    Please e-mail as soon as possible. Thank you for your message about this. What a time and sanity and money saver.

    Dovens
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