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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems



  • I 'm having the same problem, I've checked the sensor on the sliding arm at the bottom, but nothing.......WHAT did you find wrong with yours and how did you solve the door just popping out and not pulling or openign the door problem. Thanks
  • I have the 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT and on a cold start up I hear a loud vibrating noise that last for up to a minute. I have had it to the dealer service center 4 times.. I am takin it back tomorrow!! They keep saying at cold start up they dont hear this noise.. yet I got it back today and 5 hours after no start, sure enough at start up it did it again!. My husband says it sounds like something with the exhaust. ANyone else having a problem like this?? Please help! Very frustrated and sorry I purchased this thing! P.S. I have had the sliding door problem too! Had my daughters purse taken one time when the door came back open! So sad!
  • gtgirleegtgirlee Posts: 1
    This happened to me last summer and cost a couple-hundred to fix. Look down in the sides where it has something that looks kind of like a plastic bike chain... that is likely where the problem is coming from esp. if it is just one door. What happens is crumbs, dirt, dust, rocks etc get in there and inside that is wiring for your door, something gets pinched etc... and wala, ISSUE! I reccomend taking it to the dealer and having them check but I had the SAME problem. Door would pop open and not slide back.
  • artworx76artworx76 Posts: 1
    Hi Boogiemanpa,

    I just read your post...I am having the same problem. I just purchased a 06 Dodge GC a month ago and have the leak in the exact place you mentioned.(the first heavy rain since the purchase) Were you able to find a solution? I would really love any info you could throw my way. Thank you .
  • I first posted this several weeks ago. It is still doing it and seems worse. My husband keeps saying it has to do with the exhaust, but the dealership service center can not seem to find it, or it does not do it when they have it for a couple days at a time. Just thought I'd re post to see if anyone else is having a problem with a vibrating humming type noise at start up and lasts a few minutes. I actually think im hearing it while driving now too. thx
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 9,933
    Does it have a metallic, tinny sound? If so, it may be a loose heat shield somewhere along the exhaust system.
    2013 Volkwagen Passat TDI, 2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I will def. ask the dealership guys to check it out. They say they have checked everything under there in the exhaust and it all looks good. But I'll tell them to look! Thanks..
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 9,933
    Well, sometimes those heat shields can be tricky. For instance, I have one on my car that vibrates, but it is not "loose" in the sense that there is a nut that needs tightening. In this case, the shield just resonates with the vibration from the engine and produces a sound. If I bend it just a little, the sound stops for a while.
    2013 Volkwagen Passat TDI, 2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • hcederlofhcederlof Posts: 3
    My motor for the passenger side front door window of my 2005 Grand Voyager died and I bought a used one.
    While replacing the motor the window slid down and I dropped the central part from where all the cables in the mechanic part comes out from and I now need to find a way to set it up again so I can first of all make the window stay up (without duct tape) and secondly use it again.
    Can anyone please describe whow this is done?
    Unfortunately this is not described in the Haynes manuals.

  • 356356 Posts: 4
    I bought my TC Limited last July and have now passed 10,000 miles with NO problems whatsoever. Not one problem has surfaced, and this is the first car I have owned which has not needed air added to the tires ever. I am really pleased with the 4.0 Liter engine. If I take it real easy it gets better mileage than my old 3.8 did and I have plenty of acceleration when needed. So far the worst tankful has been 17mpg in February and the best mileage was 28mpg on a level 200 mile portion of the New York State Thruway with only a slight side wind. 25mpg is easy to get at 65-70mph. I do take it easy on the accelerator. Cheers, Bye from Vic in Westport MA
  • lotempiolotempio Posts: 2
    Hi I am also having the same problem 9000 miles and a 2008. After any cold start, I get a lod noise fora minute. Would you be so kind to advise if you were able to get this fixed and what was the issue. Many Thanks..Frank
  • vlphilvlphil Posts: 1
    I bought an 08 t an c limited and what a total piece of [non-permissible content removed] its turning into. i dont even want to look at it at this point. I always try to buy american in life so i went for the chrysler even though my brain was saying odyssey.Shouldve listened. So far lately, power steering hose recall, huge bulge in center of rear bumper that grows with heat, top of front passenger side bumper keeps popping out, both power sliding doors detect obstacles that arent there and reverse themselves, drivers side sliding door constantly thinks its ajar and lets us constantly know with an assortment of chimes,lights flickering, messages, and locks opening and closing. And the best part is the dealer cant seem to fix it. Not to mention the a pillar whistle at high speeds. when i picked it up today i noticed that the mechanic chipped the front headlight and front bumper and tried to cover it up with some touch up paint and the dealer tried to get away with it, unbelievable. I will never ever as long as i live buy another chrysler product, i hope anyone considering it reads this. Uhhhhhh
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    When Cerberus took over Chrysler in late 2007, I knew it was bad news. This company just fips businesses in order to make a quick buck. The 2008 and 2009 Chrysler models have the worst quality in the industry and their own worst quality in years. I think the Chrysler merger with Fiat is a blessing for Chrysler. They have individuals who have knowledge about the car business and care about the company. I believe you will see Chrysler improve upon its quality from now on. I own a 2006 Dodge Caravan that I bought brand new and have never brought it in for warranty work. I had the front brakes done 6 months ago at 32k miles. The original rotors are still on the van. I replaced the original tires at 35k miles. Otherwise, only routine maintenance has been done on the vehicle. A couple of weeks ago I bought a 2007 PT Cruiser with only 5,500 miles on it. I don't plan on giving up on Chrysler. Keep the faith.
  • Hello Boogie,
    We had the same problem, I took it to a windshield repair place and they said the leak was coming from the outside seal on the right side for the windshield. The water runs down the rubber roof seal to the front windshield and then under the seal. The windshield guy took some sealant inside and moved the inside overhead back and down a little and was able to fix the problem. Haven't had a leak in over 2 yrs. My advice, take it to a windshield repair place and tell them where the leak is and have them seal it from inside. That solved our problem (knock on my desk). I think the problem is if you have the windshield replaced the replacement seal that goes around the new windshield isn't correctly manufactured or something so it doesn't seal around the windshield correctly.
  • samnoesamnoe Posts: 731
    But as noted somewhere above, the 2006 MY (I had the 2005 MY, which is basically the same) is MUCH MORE reliable than the 2008. Drives and handles better too. Chrysler improved 2008 with features, and went back with all the rest.

    And I see no change coming for 2010. Why don't they offer the 4.0L engine accross the line? It's still not as smooth, quiet or refined as any other engine in its class; but at least it offers more power and better mileage than the aging 3.8L which is 60 horsepower less than competition!! Why don't they improve driving dynamics, handling, mute road impacts, interior controls, and more!??
  • erolserols Posts: 3
    Your answer seems like the best, most logical and informative one for my window issues. I was about to buy a whole regulator assembly, or motor. But I will attempt your procedure first.

    When you say you crimped yours in a vise, Do you mean you bypassed the fuse altogether? I'm all for that, I doubt the door motor is going to be starting any fires.
  • pdminipdmini Posts: 1
    Is there anyway to manually operate the rear vent windows of a T&C minivan that are powered. Own 2000 T&C that son has at college and not willing to fix $$$ motor(s) but would still like the air flow. Van is a daily driver for son with extreme high mileage. Any imaginitive suggestions would be appreciated.

  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I don't know if this is possible or not, but could you or your son replace the motor assembly with the hand levers that came standard on the base model Caravans and T&C's in that year? Maybe find some parts in a junk yard and see if they can be made to work.
  • devdogazdevdogaz Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Town & Country. The power door locks all work fine except for the driver's side sliding door. Problem is, when you manually lock the door, then you can't open the power slider with the key because it remains locked. Wouldn't be a big deal, but wife is pregnant and with a new baby, she's not going to want to put the baby down to unlock that door by hand.

    I'm guessing there's not an individual fuse for each door, so it's likely something else. Any suggestions of what to try before I take it in and have to pay to get it fixed?
  • II am extremely dissatisfied with the quality of my 2008 Town and Country van. I have 49,000 miles on it, and today it's down for brakes, a wheel bearing, wheel hub, and tie rod. About $800 in repairs.

    This follows a few weeks ago when it was down for about $500 in air conditioner repair due to a "bad line" that apparently was a known issue. Service writer admitted he "sees a lot of them". Then why in the hell don't you allow it's a bad part and replace it free?

    I have poured more money into this vehicle at 49,000 miles than I did with my 2003 Windstar in total. I put 249,000 miles on the Windstar, and only did 3 brake jobs, tires and fluid changes.

    It's not like I off-road or abuse this vehicle. It's all highway. And of course, nothing is a recall or factory/dealer issue where anything is subsidized.

    I can understand the brakes being gone and needing to be replaced as normal wear/tear. But the bearing/hub? I haven't had a wheel bearing or hub go bad on a car since the 70s. And a tie rod? An acknowledged faulty air conditioner line and I have to pay for it?

    Rear hatch latch assy was also bad, causing the interior lights to stay on and door ajar warning to constantly be on, even when the hatch was closed and secured. This would have been another several hundred dollars for an entirely new latch, had I chosen to fix it instead of just cutting the offending wires to the sensor.

    I am frustrated and disappointed. Never, never, never again will I have a Chrysler And I will make sure every friend, relative and internet car quality forum knows of the problems I've had, and cash I've had to lay out. Unfortunately, I'm sure there are more problems and expenses to come.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    My experience has been more in line with samnoe's. I have a 2007 Grand Caravan (the last year of that version) with 52,000 miles and have only touched the front brakes - nothing else.

    It's unfortunate but Chrysler and D3 products tend to have significant teething problems every time they revamp the line or even come out with a new model.
  • jerry109jerry109 Posts: 4
    Yes, the dealer told me while replacing the front wheel bearing (yes already) that mine needed replacing. I have owned several and this has not been a problem. There should be a recall on these. This is after I have had back bumper cover replaced, anti thief switch which will shut van down, gear switch is noisy and button hangs and goes from 1750 rpms to 2500 in speed control continuously.
    They say it is normal to do that.
  • mom2lnsmom2lns Posts: 1
    I have the same problem (but on the passenger side). I took it in to the dealership--and they told me it was the motor and would cost about $450 (if I remember correctly--maybe it was $650). It's so frustrating because it went RIGHT after the warranty expired. We've kind of adjusted to only using the driver's side door. I don't want to pay that much, and I'm totally sceptical everytime I go to the dealership.

    Does each door have its own motor? I can't believe one door would stop working but the other still works absolutely fine.
  • mgibbamgibba Posts: 1
    town & country, '96, and the window & lock suddenly stopped there a fuse to change or manual to look at (mine's missing)? thanks
  • I have had a 08 TC for 9 month. Today morning when I tried to move backward out of my garage, It just stopped there. I pushed the accelerator, after hearing two huge Peng Peng sound, the car started to move backward. Does anyone have some idea on this?
  • noni4noni4 Posts: 6
    No I do not have that problem so far. I do experience wierd noises when it's raining though like the drive shaft is coming apart. My rear quarter panels are loose again, otherwise, not so far on the engine. Sorry to hear about your problem. Has it been resolved? :sick:
  • noni4noni4 Posts: 6
    :lemon: Yes, I too was frustrated when I found out my front brakes were shot at 9,500 miles. I bought my car in March of 08 and for the first 4 months it was in the shop for one reason or another. I had a 2000 Dodge van and never had problems with brakes or anything else. This one is falling apart. I already had struts, brakes numerous replacements of the radio which goes out for who knows why. The panels keep coming loose, the doors do not shut as it shows the obstacle message, it makes a siren like noise when driving, the defrosters, hmm of course they cannot duplicate the problem as it takes over a 1/2 hour to get to the dealer it's like driving a clunker. I cannot afford to trade mine in, if I could I would
  • We have a 2009 Town & Country 4.0L, and it's been great. The power doors are a little overly sensitive when closing, so occasionally they'll reverse for fear they might hurt someone! Silly. Other than that it's been smooth and nice. I would like to have seen more anti-roll, but I guess it's a minivan, not a sport sedan...

    I actually got the 4.0L on this 25th anniversary Touring edition, which apparently is kinda rare? I guess the 4.0L is mostly on the Limiteds. The 4.0L engine and 6-speed automatic are a great combination -- you can floor it from a stoplight and it acts like a wannabe racecar, zipping through the gears and accelerating to 60 in about 7.8 seconds.

    Compare published 0-60 times for current model year vans, and you'll find that the Town & Country with the 4.0L can actually outrun Odyssey's & Siennas.

    The 4.0L isn't the most powerful engine in its class, but it's very torquey. It has a long stroke for improved low rpm torque, which is exactly what's needed for a heavy VAN for engine response around town. The 4.0-liter V-6 engine improves the torque curve in the low- to mid-range for more pep during acceleration from idle. Focusing more on low- to mid-range means that maximum power of 251hp is not as high as you might expect from a 4.0L engine, but a few horsepower at the top end won't be missed in a VAN, while the broad torque curve throughout the rpm range is really appreciated.

    But the 4.0L engine is just an enlargement of the 3.5L SOHC V6 and is just a stopgap measure until the new Pentastar engine line debuts shortly. Keep in mind that the 2.7L DOHC, the 3.3/3.8L pushrod engines, and the 3.5L/4.0L SOHC engines are basically all the same engine family. (Only the 3.7L V6 seen in Durango and Liberty is different, being based off of the 4.7L V8.)

    So we'll have a whole new "Pentastar" V6 engine family to replace all these V6's very soon! Several sizes will be available including a 3.6L with 280hp and 260 lb-ft of torque. and possibly a future 4.0L.
  • moosetntmoosetnt Posts: 18
    Have a 2008 Town&Country Limited. Problems from the start. Air conditioner not cooling properly, sliding doors rattle, don't close properly at times, rear power seat fails constantly, Uconnect resets, NAV system looses my data. Just picked it up from service. They flashed the computers with updates. Checked the air conditioner for trouble codes (none reported). Doors still rattle as bad as ever, back seat still does not recline properly and the air conditioner blows cold then warm air (cycles). When the vehicle was brand new I had none of these problems. All started at about 1,000 miles. I now have 10,0000 miles. Will be going back to the dealer again next week for another shot. If problems persist I'll give them one more shot. Then on to a lemon law attorney.
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