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Ford Mustang Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,747
    Why bother? Just take it back for warranty service.
  • Because Ford will most likely nurse it along until the warranty is expired and the car will still not be fixed!
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,747
    Or they could identify the problem and fix it in 10 minutes. This sounds pretty simple - either it works or it doesn't. Take it in.
  • cccompsoncccompson Posts: 2,388
    The battery drainage problem MIGHT well be related to the radio drawing power when it is left on. Yes, I know that this sounds crazy but try turning off the radio before parking the vehicle for more than a few days.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    This is always drawing current also.
  • mellor_21mellor_21 Posts: 8
    k to the left of the clutch theres a pedal that really doesnt seem to do anything, any ideas what the heck it is??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,967
    That's your "dead pedal", purposely designed to allow the driving enthusiast to rest his foot, rather than have it scrunched up sideways against a wheel well. You should love your dead pedal and wax it (just kidding, don't do that)--it is a wonderful thing that drivers appreciate only when they drive a car without one.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • mellor_21mellor_21 Posts: 8
    hi i have a 97 GT and my cruise doesnt work... when i push on and set nothin happens, no lights, no cruise.. any ideas?
  • specialedspecialed Posts: 4
    I have a 2006 Mustang GT Premium and just took the car in to the dealer due to a massive electrical failure while driving in a heavy rainstorm (water got into one of the modules). While driving home the radio went out, the windows wouldn't work, the instrament panel was flashing crazily and the gas guage dropped to empty (low fuel light came on) . When I got home (2 blocks later) I backed it into my drive and put it into park so I could open the gate. I couldn't get the car out of park!!! I was half-way into the street (scarry). I had to wait about 1/2 hr for it to dry up a bit. It worked fine except for the 'Service Engine Soon' Light (See other post- Fuel) and The dealer said they will fix it so it won't happen again.

    Just a heads-up. -Ed
  • specialedspecialed Posts: 4
    I would start with the basics.
    1) Did it ever work (for you)?
    2) if yes, When and in what circumstance did it stop working?
    3) Did you check the fuses?
    -Special Ed
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    For furture emergency, there is a access plate next to the shifter. Pry that open and then push the key into the slot. This will release the shifter from park when the battery is dead or when you don't want to leave the key in the vehicle such as when it is being towed.

    mark
  • mellor_21mellor_21 Posts: 8
    no
    and yeah theyre all good
  • h8mstngh8mstng Posts: 6
    It sounds like you had the same issues I had with a 2005 convertible. Every time it rained, the electrical system was seriously screwed up. The TCS and ABS warning lights would come on and stay on. The message center indicated that the charging system had failed. The radio would only work in park and neutral. The car reeked of mold and mildew. It seems that there were some cars that were not assembled properly at the good ole Ford factory. I had a major leak between the firewall, "A" frame and floor pan. Water would get in to the car from the drain hole on the front fender and run into the passenger side. This water would run over the ECU junction box and cause numerous electrical problems. Ford claimed that the car never leaked. The Better Business Bureau sent an inspector to my house who was able to find the leak in less than 3 minutes. Ford's technicians couldn't find the leak in 8 different trips to the dealership. Each time I contacted Ford customer service, they would hang up on me. The dealer I bought the car from threatened to have me arrested if I didn't get my car off his lot. Any other dealer I took the car to refused to fix it because "it wasn't their problem" and it might reflect badly on their fix it right ratio. I had to go through the Better Business Bureau to get Ford to take their piece of crap back :lemon:
    Things to look for after it rains:
    Pull back the carpet from under the kick panel on the passenger side (and this might seem funny) and sniff. (Do this on the drivers side too as I have heard of this area leaking as well as the passenger side. You might smell a moldy smell.
    If you do smell something, look up over the large black box and the wiring harness above it. Check the entire wiring harness. You might even see water dripping from the harness. (My leak resulted in ice cicles hanging from the wiring harness.)

    Check the padding under the carpet for dampness and squeeze it. If you have a leak you will notice it then. It's really hard to miss. (My carpet was a little harder to lift up, it was frozen to the floor.)

    If you can't find the leak. Open the hood. Look along the top of the fender. Fairly close to the windshield you will find a hole. Place a hose near that hole and let the water run into it. Look inside the car along the floor pan where you have the carpet pulled back. If you have a leak, you will DEFINITELY find it then.

    FORD WILL NOT HELP YOU WITH THIS PROBLEM. They will do everything in their power to lie to you about it. There have been MANY documented and unfortunately undocumented cases of leaks on the Mustang. Ford continues to lie about the Mustang ever leaking. It's just proof that you can put crap in a shiny box, but it's still just crap.
  • belvettebelvette Posts: 13
    I recently bought a 2003 Ford Mustang GT conv 4.6 liter. I noticed the fog lights are always on when the lights are on low beam. I cannot seem to turn them off via the fog light switch. Does this seem normal or is the switch defective? If it is a bad switch how difficult would it be to change?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,747
    Are you sure you're using the switch correctly? Push the switch in to turn them off, pull it out to turn them on. If the switch is pushed in and they're still on then I'd remove the switch and test it with a voltmeter before you replace it. Should be right behind the dash panel.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    probably defective

    Mark
  • belvettebelvette Posts: 13
    Thanks for the quick reply, the switch itself is not a push/pull type. It is located in the center dash panel just below the radio along with the rear defrost and traction control switches. It has an led indicator which is always lit no matter how many time I depress it.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,747
    In that case I'd say the switch was bad. Shouldn't be too hard to change. When you unplug the switch the lights should go out.
  • I recently purchased a used 2005 GT. No real issues, other than the stereo (Shaker 500) would act up occasionally (not play CD's, etc.). About a week ago, I noticed that the radio had lost the time and all the presets. I turned it off, back on and the problem had vanished--all settings were back like they always had been. I then went out of town for 3 days. I arrived back at the airport, started the car and drove off as normal--no issues at all. I drove about 60 miles, stopped at the store and was out in under 5 minutes. I put the key in, turned to accessory, everything lit up like it should. When I turned the key to the start position, there was an audible 'pop', and the whole car went dead. No lights, radio, anything. I had the car towed to the dealer, and they have replaced the battery. While I am not a certified mechanic, batteries do not suddenly go from fully charged, to dead (and wouldn't take a charge) in less than 5 minutes. I purchased the vehicle used, so I am not sure if I have the same recourse under a lemon law if (when) this occurs again. It may just be me, but my issue sounds very similar to some of the others posted, other than the fact that the car had only been shut off for less than 5 minutes, and had never had a slow start issue in the two months that I have owned it.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    If it made an audible pop, that sounds like a classic bad ground to me.
  • That is what I thought, or a relay that went bad. The dealer tested the battery, which they said would not hold a charge, and then tested the alternator. According to them, the battery was the problem. I still have my doubts about that.......
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    A bad ground can cause a battery to not hold a charge. It's discharging on something.
  • Just wondering if there was anything ever diagnosed with your issues. I have an 05 'stang that is having severe electrical problems, this car is my "baby" and has only about 5500 miles on it. I'm in MN it can't be driven in the winter and it only comes out on nice days...no rain for this car. Anyway, the battery was completely dead about a month ago and would not hold a charge. The dealership replaced the battery but blamed the lack of charge on the fact that I use a trickle charger in the winter to winterize my car. Ok, sure, I ran with that idea...never really believed it, but i am not a mechanic either. However, a week ago I went to start the car and the battery, yep the brand new one, was dead. Took it back to the dealer..."everything is fine, the only problem is that you have driven it only 30 miles in the last 3 weeks." That's when I got irritated with them. They don't know if I have started the car and idled it for any length of time to hold a charge or not (no I haven't, but that still shouldn't matter for a brand new battery). I am looking for any ideas what could be going on with the car at this point, any others that have had similar system issues.
  • Not really. Ultimately, the dealer said that the battery had an internal short. I'm not ASE certified, but I have been working on cars for a number of years, and that diagnosis was new to me. Replaced the battery, and things have been OK. As far as your car, since it is sitting, you can always take the approach of just disconnecting the battery when it is going to be parked. Yes, you will have to program the radio stations/clock when you get ready to drive it, but that should save the battery. I had an '84 Vette that had the same issue--if it sat for more than 24 hours, it wouldn't start. Eventually, installed a trickle charger that mounted on the vehicle itself--had a short lead that I would plug in if storing the vehicle. When ready to drive, I would just unplug, store the lead and that was all. However, I am not sure if a vehicle mounted trickle charger would void a factory warranty. The Vette was out of warranty, so it was not an issue.
  • Thanks for the suggestions! I am still taking the route of annoying the CRAP out of the dealers at this point since there is the warranty and playing one dealer against the other...that may get me somewhere. I actually do have a trickle charger hooked up on my 'stang because I had always had the intent of this not being driven in the winter. With the trickle charge on they still replaced the original battery and I am now on the 2nd battery that was dead after 3 weeks. We will see what happens with it, since the warranty is up in April...definately not getting winterized this year though.
  • Hi, I am having a strange problem. My right hand side indicators stay on (not flashing but on) after I turn the engine off. They are also on while the engine is running. It looks like I had switched on parking lights on one side (I am not aware that my car has parking lights like this) and that they can't be turned off. Has anyone come across this kind of problem and a possible fix?

    Thanks.
    LJ
  • cccompsoncccompson Posts: 2,388
    Just guessing - check to see if the front or rear bulb is burned out or loose.
  • :D Hey got a positive trouble shoot from my Ford dealer last month.
    500 Shaker in the 2005GT is drawing 1.4 amp with CD s loaded in the changer and .02 amps with no CDs in changer with radio off. He's got a new radio on order for me but they are back ordered for 3 months. Best feeling I've had since the first time I smoked the tires
  • Fellow MN Stang - try removing all your CDs from the changer each time you get out of the car and see if your battery stays up. Mind did after I started playing one cd at a time and always pulling them out when parked. :shades:
  • Ironically, I had emptied the CD player after the new battery was dead and it hasn't been acting up since. Gonna do some testing of this...re-load the CD Player and see what happens. Thanks for your info, I COMPLETELY get what you mean about the best feeling since smoking it the first time! :D
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