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Ford Mustang Electrical Problems

24

Comments

  • flmustangflmustang Member Posts: 3
    That is what I thought, or a relay that went bad. The dealer tested the battery, which they said would not hold a charge, and then tested the alternator. According to them, the battery was the problem. I still have my doubts about that.......
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    A bad ground can cause a battery to not hold a charge. It's discharging on something.
  • blustangblustang Member Posts: 5
    Just wondering if there was anything ever diagnosed with your issues. I have an 05 'stang that is having severe electrical problems, this car is my "baby" and has only about 5500 miles on it. I'm in MN it can't be driven in the winter and it only comes out on nice days...no rain for this car. Anyway, the battery was completely dead about a month ago and would not hold a charge. The dealership replaced the battery but blamed the lack of charge on the fact that I use a trickle charger in the winter to winterize my car. Ok, sure, I ran with that idea...never really believed it, but i am not a mechanic either. However, a week ago I went to start the car and the battery, yep the brand new one, was dead. Took it back to the dealer..."everything is fine, the only problem is that you have driven it only 30 miles in the last 3 weeks." That's when I got irritated with them. They don't know if I have started the car and idled it for any length of time to hold a charge or not (no I haven't, but that still shouldn't matter for a brand new battery). I am looking for any ideas what could be going on with the car at this point, any others that have had similar system issues.
  • flmustangflmustang Member Posts: 3
    Not really. Ultimately, the dealer said that the battery had an internal short. I'm not ASE certified, but I have been working on cars for a number of years, and that diagnosis was new to me. Replaced the battery, and things have been OK. As far as your car, since it is sitting, you can always take the approach of just disconnecting the battery when it is going to be parked. Yes, you will have to program the radio stations/clock when you get ready to drive it, but that should save the battery. I had an '84 Vette that had the same issue--if it sat for more than 24 hours, it wouldn't start. Eventually, installed a trickle charger that mounted on the vehicle itself--had a short lead that I would plug in if storing the vehicle. When ready to drive, I would just unplug, store the lead and that was all. However, I am not sure if a vehicle mounted trickle charger would void a factory warranty. The Vette was out of warranty, so it was not an issue.
  • blustangblustang Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the suggestions! I am still taking the route of annoying the CRAP out of the dealers at this point since there is the warranty and playing one dealer against the other...that may get me somewhere. I actually do have a trickle charger hooked up on my 'stang because I had always had the intent of this not being driven in the winter. With the trickle charge on they still replaced the original battery and I am now on the 2nd battery that was dead after 3 weeks. We will see what happens with it, since the warranty is up in April...definately not getting winterized this year though.
  • ljsstangljsstang Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having a strange problem. My right hand side indicators stay on (not flashing but on) after I turn the engine off. They are also on while the engine is running. It looks like I had switched on parking lights on one side (I am not aware that my car has parking lights like this) and that they can't be turned off. Has anyone come across this kind of problem and a possible fix?

    Thanks.
    LJ
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    Just guessing - check to see if the front or rear bulb is burned out or loose.
  • veightveight Member Posts: 4
    :D Hey got a positive trouble shoot from my Ford dealer last month.
    500 Shaker in the 2005GT is drawing 1.4 amp with CD s loaded in the changer and .02 amps with no CDs in changer with radio off. He's got a new radio on order for me but they are back ordered for 3 months. Best feeling I've had since the first time I smoked the tires
  • veightveight Member Posts: 4
    Fellow MN Stang - try removing all your CDs from the changer each time you get out of the car and see if your battery stays up. Mind did after I started playing one cd at a time and always pulling them out when parked. :shades:
  • blustangblustang Member Posts: 5
    Ironically, I had emptied the CD player after the new battery was dead and it hasn't been acting up since. Gonna do some testing of this...re-load the CD Player and see what happens. Thanks for your info, I COMPLETELY get what you mean about the best feeling since smoking it the first time! :D
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    Interesting post and a theory not heretofore suggested. Unfortunately, that sounds like a PIA.

    My battery stays up when the car sits for weeks if the radio is turned off and the anti-theft system is not engaged.
  • veightveight Member Posts: 4
    I totally agree with the intermit ant nature of the battery going dead.
    My Stang could set 6 weeks or 3 days - totally unpredictable.
    Thats why I quizzed the dealer techs so closely my be they got lucky and caught the radio when it "cycled just right" and recorded the current draws by chance.
    All I know is it more than Ford Engineering has done for me.
    All Ford wanted to do was go to arbitration not fix the problem
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    Please update us after they do the swap.
  • raymon31raymon31 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem that many others have reported. My car is completely dead after siting a week or longer. I have a 05 GT with 33,000 miles. I don't drive this car very much in the winter. Last winter I did not have this problem. The dealer keeps replacing the battery. I suggest everyone who has had a similar problem to ask your dealer for some names and addresses of Ford employees you can call/write and complain. The dealers operate separate from Ford, so we should try getting to the source of this problem, Fords cheap and poor engineering.

    In a previous post, danieldalton2003yahoo.com said he has had the same problem. He has already contacted Ford employees about the problem. He said to email him for the names. I plan to do so.
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    That last post was written in such an obnoxious manner that I can't believe I'm trying to help you.

    FORD: 2005-2008 Mustang
    2005 Explorer Sport Trac
    2005-2008 Expedition, Explorer
    2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac
    LINCOLN: 2005-2008 Navigator
    MERCURY: 2005-2008 Mountaineer

    ISSUE:
    Some 2005-2008 Mustang , Explorer 4dr, Mountaineer, Expedition, Navigator, 2005 Explorer Sport Trac and 2007-2008 Explorer Sport Trac vehicles may experience a no start and have a discharged battery. They are usually stored for prolonged periods of time or are driven infrequently for short distances. Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time, 30 days or more, vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw.

    ACTION:
    Follow the Service Tips steps to correct the condition.

    SERVICE TIPS

    Charging system diagnostics and battery draw test are located in Workshop Manual, Section 414-00.
    Discharged batteries need to be properly recharged following the procedures in TSB 07-5-8.
    All modern automobiles have several micro processors in their electrical system that will draw small amounts of electrical current when the vehicle key is off. Normal current draw is between 20-30 milliamps (workshop manual specification is up to 50 milliamps 0.050 amps).
    The more discharged a battery becomes, the more susceptible it is to permanent damage. This is more likely in low temperatures (below 32 °F (0 °C).
    Batteries will discharge while the vehicle is in storage due to normal current draw loads. Over a period of time (30 days or more), vehicles in storage will have shallow to deeply discharged batteries as a result of lack of use or normal current draw.

    NOTE: ELECTRICAL OR ELECTRONIC ACCESSORIES OR COMPONENTS ADDED TO THE VEHICLE BY THE DEALER OR BY THE OWNER WILL INCREASE THE CURRENT DRAW LOADS AND ADVERSELY AFFECT BATTERY PERFORMANCE AND DURABILITY.

    The vehicle's charging system is designed to supply the vehicle's electrical power needs and maintain the battery to near full charge during normal vehicle use. The charging system is not capable of bringing a deeply discharged battery back to near full charge in a short amount of time such as allowing the vehicle to idle for 15 minutes to "recharge the battery" or from short drive cycles.
    Short drive cycles will only provide a small surface charge to the battery. To fully recharge a battery that is fully discharged requires operating the vehicle for approximately two (2) hours with engine speed above 1500 RPM.
    Vehicles that are stored for extended periods or are driven infrequently for short distances may need to use an auxiliary battery maintainer/charger that is expressly designed to maintain the battery state of charge during storage. These maintainers/chargers are available in the automotive aftermarket and should be used according to their manufacturer's direction.

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
    07-05-8

    WARRANTY STATUS:
    Information Only - Not Warrantable

    I am always willing to try to help people who have questions or problems that their dealer can't seem to help them with if I can.

    I don't need to come to the forum though to read people bitching about how bad Fords are written in the implication that Fords are uniquely worse then other vehicles out there.
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    Under $50 from Walmart, they even have solar poweared ones for those who don't garage their cars.

    Read my post of above. If you do, you will understand that if there is a 50 milliamp or less draw on your battery while the car is OFF then there is no problem with the electrical system.

    Even though you are driving your car on an average of once per week, you are clearly not driving it far enough to recover from the discharge that is occuring while the car sits.

    Mark
    Mark.
  • blustangblustang Member Posts: 5
    Is this a new TSB posted somewhere? I have been very vigilant about keeping up on TSBs and haven't seen this one. Thanks for addressing this issue I am at wits end with my car, but LOVE it and Ford...wouldn't drive anything else! :D I am just curious what I can tell my dealer to point them in the right direction. The current dealer that I am working with (I switched from one because they treated me like I am a stupid girl) is very good and I trust that they have checked things out thoroughly, but they still couldn't find anything wrong the last time I had my car in the beginning of December.
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    Thanks for the posting. Unfortunately, it does not appear to address the discharge problem suffered by myself and others when the vehicle has been parked for a relatively short time (less than two weeks). Turning the radio off and not engaging the anti-theft system has taken care of it for me.
  • mellor_21mellor_21 Member Posts: 8
    this might sound stupid but maybe you have a short somewhere? obviously somethin is pulling power from your battery even when its off.. so if its not the electronics of your car.. its probably a short or somethin?
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    If you check your car when it is off, it should be drawing 50 or less milliamps. If that is the case, then your car is operating as designed.

    more than 50 milliamps you have something broken.
    less than 50 milliamps, you have a normal Mustang.

    Second, if you read the TSB, you will clearly see that just because you drive the car on a regular basis, if you do not drive it far or long enough to deep charge the battery, you are still going to need to jump it. Hence the battery minder.

    Mark.

    PS the TSB I posted was:

    07-5-13 DISCHARGED BATTERIES - VEHICLES IN STORAGE/LIMITED USAGE

    Publication Date: March 5, 2007
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Also don't ever charge a completely discharged battery with your alternator. Use a trickle charger to bring the battery back up, THEN drive it.
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    No, not likely a short - tests have shown that the Shaker radio draws a signifcant amount even when the car is turned off if the radio is left on. The various Mustang websites have discussed this issue at length. I don't know exactly how much power the anti-theft uses (or is designed to use) but logically it has to take some. Fortunately, mine's garaged in a safe area and so system activation is not necessary.
  • blustangblustang Member Posts: 5
    I am just getting frustrated with my car. I have an under hood trickle charger mounted on the car that hasn't been attached to the battery since March when I took the car "out of storage." I have tried to re-create the draw, but am struggling with that. Because of all the info on the Shaker Radio pulling the draw I have tried to empty the CD player and let it sit. I have re-loaded the player and let it sit. I cannot re-produce it. It is a lot of trial and error right now. This is an '05 with only 5600 mi. on it, so I know that it doesn't get much use, however, half of those miles are from this year alone and this is the first time since '05 that I have had ANY problems or complaints. This car is babied beyond belief...that may be the problem. :)
  • waterdrwaterdr Member Posts: 307
    Folks, ponies are meant to have their legs stretched. Storing a car in the winter and dead batteries go together like ham and cheese. My 2000 GT Vert does the same thing. I usually just buy a new battery every March or April....goes with the territory.

    The worse thing you can do is run it ocassionally for short periods of time. Builds up a lot of condensation in the exhaust too when you do this.

    If you just lay it up for the winter, pull the battery out and store it inside the house. Then, in the spring, use a deep-cycle charger to boost it up and install it.

    Each time the battery goes dead, the computer will have to reprogram itself too....it is not just the radio pre-sets. You are supposed to start the car and let it idle until it warms up before you drive it too. This ensures that the idle speed is set correctly and allows the car to be out of "open-loop" mode.
  • nchandlernchandler Member Posts: 1
    Brake lights quit working on car. We have checked all bulbs, fuses etc. The switch works but it is not getting power so we are assuming there's a short since the cruise control quit working couple months before that.

    We are not sure where to start to look for shorts etc. and was hoping someone might have some suggestions.
  • veightveight Member Posts: 4
    You have a legit beef on trashing Ford for no reason.
    I've driven or owned Fords for 37 years and my daddy and grand daddy before me.

    But the TSB does not provide information on the battery that has been driven for long drives then goes dead in 3 days followed by a miraculous recovery and sits in storage for 3-4 weeks and starts up fine. We all have more of a life than to sit around making this crap up.
  • rbright13rbright13 Member Posts: 10
    dude thats bs.! ford products are not any different than any other maker out there , I got a 1999 mustang GT and the battery keeps going dead, I put a new duralast gold battery in and fully charge it with a charger , and in 2 days it was dead . There isnt any car made out there that uses that much stand-bye power to kill the battery in within 27 hrs of sitting!! The alt. is the main source for the battery draining that quick , if it is bad. Just because it it charges doesn't mean it is good.
    I had a bad a** stereo systems hooked up in my cars in my younger days , and I could jam them all day long and still crank my car up with no problems
  • rbright13rbright13 Member Posts: 10
    its says that there is a recall on taillights .make sure that your car has been fix from this recall before paying alot of money
  • bandit10bandit10 Member Posts: 28
    This just a thought. I had this happen to my Toyota. It turned out the rear bulb was burned out and that's why my turn signal on the dash stayed on. And my front signal stay on constantly. Just a guess.
  • rbright13rbright13 Member Posts: 10
    from what I heard ,is that under the hood on the pass. side there is a hole on the fender where the hood closes that when it rains the water goes into that hole and then goes back where the cpu is .water gets into the cpu and messes-up . That got to be true because where the cpu is mounted , the water can get to it. The cpu is on the pass floor behind the kick panel under the dash. when you remove the cpu the area behind there is where the water is coming from. If it was me , I would remove the cpu and seal off that area , then make sure that the inside of the cpu is dry ;)
  • mygt350rmygt350r Member Posts: 1
    i have a moderately modified 05 GT and my cruise control quit working. The light does not even come on. I took it to ford and they hooked it up to the computer and tried to briefly trouble shoot the problem. We checked alot of sensor and switches that all seemed to be working fine. He told me to bring it back another time (because he was originally fixing a recall). Does anyone have any suggestions other than fuses? That is the only problem i have had.
  • niquea2484niquea2484 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 98 Mustang V6 automatic 3.8L engine. My problems first started when my aftermarket cd player gave out and wouldn't eject the cd and I couldn't adjust the volumn. I ended up pulling the whole player out of the dash and disconnecting it. Shortly after this, my odometer stopped at about 163,000 miles and my check engine light came on. Couldn't find anything wrong, car working fine otherwise. Then my emergency brake light came on even though my brake wasn't engaged. Started to have difficulties getting the car started, especially in cold. Battery meter and power started fluctuating for no apparent reason. Had battery tested, it was bad, bought new battery. Seemed to solve the problem for a while. Then, power started fluctuating again and finally all gauges went out and car died. Assumed bad alternator. Got new alternator, installed it and seemed to fix the problem. Car worked great for 3 days, no fluctuating power, starting fine. Day 4, car completely dead, only clicks when I try to start, power locks not even working. Did the bad alternator drain my new battery or could I possibly have another bad alternator? Also, have been having what I assume are transmission problems, car jerks at certain speeds when accelerating, worst at 45mph. Would this have anything to do with my electrical problems? Could it have to do with the emergency brake light being on? Could I have messed up some important wires in the dash when I took out my cd player? Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I really need a new car, but just can't afford it right now. Thanks
  • gtforme2gtforme2 Member Posts: 23
    Your message is very interesting to me. I have an 05 Mustang GT vert (delivery in June of 05) that only comes out to play from May -Oct. and only on nice days. Have had it parked the last three winters and only started it once in January each year (including Jan 08) and never an issue. Then this April needed to move it and wham nothing. Interior lights would work, radio would turn itself on at half volume and the CD changer (have the 500 watt system) would go whacky and would act like changing CD's and there were no CD's in it. So, I took Jumper cables and took long time to charge battery enough to start, got it started ran it for an hour and shut off. Tried to start right back up and was as dead as dead could be. Called the dealer they towed it (still under warranty) and diagnosed as battery shot. Replaced Battery and starts fine. Also complained about vibration and told them read about drive shaft rotation and possible muffler hanger issue's read here on forum. What's dumb [non-permissible content removed] technicians do, they say they drive the car steering wheel vibration and shuttering and so they turn my rotors :mad: . I'm livid about that. I specifically told the Service Advisor the vibration was only at between 1300-1400 rpm and then again at between like 3250 & 3400 rpm. I plan to drive car soon but am waiting on some good days (missed couple this past week) which won't be until next week. Man it's frustrating dealing with people who aren't willing to let the customer help them. I figure tech's needed to get paid for something so they create a diagnosis that's not there and that way dealership can put in warranty claim and make some money. Believe me next time I'll ensure they call me after they have a diagnosis and perform any kind of work.
  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    very inexpensive from Wal-mart. Idling the car for an hour will not charge a dead battery.

    Mark.
  • reshat2reshat2 Member Posts: 1
    A few of you guys own my car, it seems. I have a 98 v6 Mustang Manual Transmission. I bought it 4 years ago with about 55k, and now have about 115k on it. About 2 years ago I had my first experience. One day when I was enjoying my AC, my internal lights flickered, and my battery meter dropped right in front of my eyes until my car died. I sat there for a few minutes, called for help, then it just started, and I drove home. Then for the next few weeks, I replaced the battery (wouldn't hold a charge), alternator, oh battery again (in like 10 days), alternator again, and then gone, no problems. In the clear right? Wrong, tonight, I go out to my car to leave, it wont start, totally dead, lights, interior, key chain power locks, everything. By the way, while I was inside it was pouring rain for 40 minutes like you read about, monsoon like. I have my buddy jump me right? Wrong. Still no power. My other buddy hooks up his jumper cables, and still nothing. While were are fooling around with the cables, my interior lights turn on, then it works, starts right up. Story over right? Wrong. Driving home, when I rolled down a bit, all my lights flickered, and my battery voltage meter went up slightly. It normally sits right in the middle, not tonight, about 75% or so. Then when I pulled in safely at my home, me being the smart guy I am, I started rolling up my windows, and when it got to the top, it started squealing and all my lights flickered. Not going down, only up, after it was at the top totally. Then all my lights flashed, my windows wouldn't go down, although my car was started, headlights on, stereo on.... shut it off. Totally dead. No lights or anything. Now I can understand that at this point in time my battery is dead.... but that is not the problem... it seems water related... ground related... AND... I also have the vibration, it made my mirrors fall off... sad I know :( ....I also have a squeak that wont go away, no matter how times I change what they tell me too... An earlier post said his problem was firewall leakage... I am going to follow up on that. Hope this helps... And by the way I love my mustang. Dont take it out on your car! lol
  • jc71676jc71676 Member Posts: 1
    Today my 2005 mustang would start but the windows,locks,radio,guages and the car wouldnt go into gear i was messing with the car and unplugged a plug right above the fuse box on the inside of the car and plugged it back in and everything started working I was wondering what that plug is for.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    First off, replace your battery cables and clean the connections on BOTH ends of BOTH cables. Also make sure your engine is properly grounded to the chassis. This will eliminate this one obvious problem and it's simple to do. If the symptoms persist, ,this sounds to me like a wiring harness issue or an ignition switch issue.
  • 96gt96gt Member Posts: 1
    did you ever figure out what was wrong with your emergency brake light? because mine has turned on and it isn't engaged, and my check engine light is on but nothing is wrong with it, and before i go and buy some fuses i wanted to know if you figured out what was wrong?
  • quade420quade420 Member Posts: 3
    The only thing that worked on my '89 5.0 was the the tach...good times...
  • bluetickbluetick Member Posts: 1
    Kinda of strange problem I can't seem to figure out with my 03 cobra. Pretty much my blinkers work with my headlights off, but as soon as I turn my headlights on my blinkers in the front of the car stop working. The rears are fine no matter what.

    Now at one point it seems someones had their hands all over this car changing and modding it so who knows what was touch and how they did it. I also noticed that the front headlights don't seem to be original so someone swapped out the headlights. I have yet to replace them but I changed the bulbs and took the flasher out from another car that I knew worked. Still nothing.

    Problem is I need to pass inspection and they won't with my blinkers no working, if anyone has any ideas let me know. I'm thinking maybe I need to just replace the headlights all together. Could someone have messed with the wiring? If anyone's got any idea's let me know i'll give em a shot.
  • soestersoester Member Posts: 1
    I have an electrical problem with my mustang for a while and fixed it by changing a fuse once in a while. the fuse is a blue no. 15 and is for the brake lights and turnsignal. three days a ago the lights stop working again, but this time the a/c stop blowing cold air and the engine idles rough. i had a tune up not too long ago where i changed, spark plugs, sparkplug wires, airfilter, fuel filter and oil. but now changing the fuse doesn't help anymore and somebody suggested to me to change the relays, so i did and nothing changed. changed the flasher as well not too long ago but problem consists.so if anybody experienced the same problem and found the solution please let me know. a car is vital in orlando fl. p.s. due to a minor accident the bumper and fender got fixed and the left headlight and turnsignal replaced. that's when the trouble with changing the fuses started
  • vstang6vstang6 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what the vibration problems were? I have a 2000 v6 stang and I'm in the same situation. It seems to be getting worse :(
  • 97stang97stang Member Posts: 1
    just today like 2-3 hours ago while driving my lights inside my car, more specificaly the lights in the dash board more importantly the instrument cluster lights shut off and WILL NOT come back on. i was wondering if it may have been a fuse. checked... nope, no fuse was blown. anybody have any ideas on how i can fix this problem...???
  • papasam1papasam1 Member Posts: 84
    while not trying to be funny but did you check the bulb, some times this condition is caused by the filliment or a short in the front if it is the rear one that stays on and vice a verse
  • tinasgt2005tinasgt2005 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Gt. About a month ago my check engine light came on and my car would crap out. We thought it was a fuel problem but it turned out to be the alternator. We replaced the alternator and everything was great until this past Friday. The battery light came on and we had a message on the dash, "Check charging system" We figured it was the battery since it ran completly down when we changed the alternator. We went down and bought a new battery and it seemed to work but then on Sunday the battery light came back on along with the same message. Thinking that we must have a bad alternator we replaced it and it worked great until Monday morning. Same thing, battery light came on with same message, "Check Charging System" I was able to go to work and back home(approx. 60 miles). I went back out and tried to start it but it was completley dead. HELP!!!! Does anyone have any idea of what it could be? I have not had any luck with Ford service departments either. I have 78,000 miles and nothing is under warranty anymore. I have had the same problem as some other posts, fuel tank, radio,etc. I have learned to live with the gas tank after they repalced it twice. I have found that id I go to certain gas stations I can't get past $20.00 but if I go to Chevron or Shell I have no problem. I have come to the relixation that the gas nozzles might be a contributing factor. If anyone has any suggestions on the electrical problems please let me know
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well first thing I'd have the alternator TESTED for actual quantitative output.

    If you are buying alternators from big chain stores this might be the problem as their failure rate is rather high.

    But anyway, batteries and alternators can be tested. You don't have to guess on this problem. Also the car should be tested for a large battery drain.
  • redstang05redstang05 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Mustang (v6), and when I get in it in the morning the car struggles to start. Also as of late the windows wont auto roll up or slightly go down when the door opens like it normally does (doesnt matter if its morning or afternon). Also the windows wont roll up all the way. Sometimes when I start it up the radio resets and you can hear it cycle through the cds (even though there is none in there). When it is warm outside the car seems to start fine but windows still have the issue. I have had a battery put in there by Ford last year, for different reasons.

    I have checked all the fuses and they are all fine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, same advice for you. Have the alternator output checked, the battery load-tested, and a test for "starter draw" (amperage draw when cranking).
  • redstang05redstang05 Member Posts: 3
    starter draw and alt. charge is normal. Battery seemed to be drawing power when we cleaned the terminals (sparking). Also the passenger door works fine and the drivers door won't auto roll up and won't auto roll up the 1/2 inch or so it does when you shut the door.

    Any suggestion?
  • tinasgt2005tinasgt2005 Member Posts: 2
    I posted on here about an electrical issue I was having with my 2005 Mustang GT. I had changed the alternator 4 times 2 ourselves and two by a automotive shop. Each alternator was bought from a large chain dealer. We found out,finally, that the alternator we were buying were not compatable with the card. We ended up having to go to Ford and have a Ford alternator put on. It cost of $800 for parts and labor but I was willing to pay anything to figure out why the alternators kept going out. It has been two months and the card runs great. I was told by Ford that it is some type of chip that needs to be compatable with the computer. At this point I didn't care because my card actually is running now.
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