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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis Climate Control

martensmartens Posts: 6
Our '98 GM makes a gurgling sound behind the passenger-side dashboard when the car is accelerating. This occurs in all conditions, whether air conditioner or heater is on. Is this something in the heater core and can I fix it myself in some way without too much trouble? Thanks. Chris.
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Comments

  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    When the engine is cold after sitting all night, check the coolant level in the overflow container. If low, add water. :)
  • p2minp2min Posts: 3
    Where do you add water on a '94 Crown Vic? In the overflow container?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    Yep, after you unscrew the top - fill it to the line leaving a little room at the top for possible overflow. The coolant is anti freeze 50% and H2O 50%. The H2O evaporates in time requiring the overflow container to have water added.
  • vmonvmon Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 CVLX. The fan will not blow air from vent. It changes between floor and defrost for unknown reasons. it does not matter if it is heat or AC. It switches with notice or any action on my part. Has anyone experienced this?

    vmon
  • p2minp2min Posts: 3
    Thanks. I changed the thermostat in this car yesterday, filled it with the 50/50 mixture and it drove cool. However, when I stopped and started again I had puddle of fluid directly under the car, but not near the radiator. What could this be?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,305
    Marsha is correct if the fluid color is same as coolant.

    If the fluid on the floor is clear, it is probably condensation from the A/C system, which is normal.
  • mr5x5mr5x5 Posts: 8
    I have been searching the Forums on www.crownvic.net and fiddling around with the EATC System Blower Motor Controller circuit on our 2001 GM LS for a year trying to solve the (initially) intermittent operation of the Blower for a year. After running with the Blower hot-wired thru a toggle switch for six months (when the intermittent problem went to complete failure)I finally got around to pulling the Controller Board out of the Heater/AC box last week.
    On my last search of the www.crownvic.net Forums I turned-up a note from a fellow who said "[i]most guys just fix it with a little bit of solder[/i]" this turned-on a lightbulb for me and today I had a look at the solder-joints where the connector is attached to the Controller Board. Sure enough, I could see that the solder was cracked at one of the big lugs of the connector!
    I heated-up the pins at all 5 connector lugs and flowed a little solder into the "gaps" around the pins. When I plugged the Board into the harness I found I have a Blower that once again works under control of the EATC!
    Now all I have to do is re-install the Board into the Heater/AC Box - a real tight squeeze. Right now I have it tie-wrapped to something under the hood but the heat sink on the Power Transistor gets REAL HOT - I think the best place in it is back inside that Heater/AC Box...
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    Mine went out as well a couple of weeks ago on my 2002 Grand Marquis. I think it did the same thing yours did, as my mechanic said it was not burned, it just quit working.

    This should make you feel better - it cost me $145 to have my mechanic fix it, including parts.
  • I read that you can check your Connectors and possibly Solder to fix the Blower problem. Where might I find the Heater/AC Box so I can access it and see if I have the same connector problem?
  • I had this problem on my Marauder. Try unplugging the vacuum plugs at the passenger side behind the oil and volt meter. then take a jumper vacuum hose (starting with stub that has vacuum in it, with the car running) and plug it into different stubs and see if the blendoors change, (the air will come out of the defrost or vents). If it does, then the climate controller is bad. New at the dealer about $500.00. used on Ebay about $50.00.

    This fixed my air problem.

    Good luck.
    Brian
  • ascorbateascorbate Posts: 2
    I have read thru another post in this forum about heater and a/c blower motors that stopped working suddenly.

    I have a similar problem with a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis LSE with climate control (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control or EATC for short). I have checked the obvious including the inside passenger compartment fuses plus the power distribution box underneath the front hood with particular attention to both the blower motor relay and blower motor fuses. I even swapped them out with other working relay and fuses in the power distribution box. I then measured the voltage being applied to the blower motor itself under the hood. It read anywhere from 1 to 6 DC volts or so. I have a similar blower motor layout in a well maintained 1997 Ford Crown Victoria (without EATC) and that voltage reading was 13-14 volts whether the fan speed control was set on low or high. So I'm suspicious of the lower voltage I measured in my Grand Marquis versus my Crown Vic... why would there be this big difference?

    While traveling down the highway yesterday at 50-60 mph with the a/c set to 70 degrees, I could feel cool air coming from the vents in my 2003 Grand Marquis probably because of some of the air being recirculated from the outside to the inside. The faster I went, the more cool air I could feel coming from the vents BUT still the blower motor wasn't working. So the A/C system is working, it just ain't blowing this cool air around the inside of my car!

    I read about a EATC module self test today at: http://www.p71interceptor.com/eatcswap/selftest.html which I performed with NO Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) indicated. I then disassembled the fan speed control switch, cleaned it with a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol, reassembled everything but still the same result... the heater and a/c is not blowing any warm or cold air whatsoever.

    What else am I overlooking?
  • ascorbateascorbate Posts: 2
    I read in another forum where some Ford tech at a local dealer was replacing tons of Ford basic part # 19E624 which seems to be known as the blower speed controller. I took a chance and purchased one and replaced mine; it fixed the problem and now the A/C will blow your hat off!

    Let me tell you though that this was an absolutely "miserable" module to replace. It is under the hood sandwiched below the two heater hoses and underneath the vapor mangement valve and secured with two 8 mm screws. What should have been a 10 minute job turned into a 2-3 hour miserable job thanks (once again) to the forward-thinking engineers at Ford Motor Company. I don't know what those automotive engineers were smoking but it must have been damn good!

    I did read somewhere that if this blower speed controller needed replacement, that something else (like the blower motor itself) may have been the real culprit. Anyone else have any opinions about this?
  • zigbackzigback Posts: 1
    I smell gasoline when running the ac. Has anyone else had this problem and what can be done?
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    My 2002 LSE did the exact same thing - there is a blower resistor module that goes out - it is located in the climate control plenum on the firewall. It is cooled by any air that moves through there, and apparently it is a result of the "lowest bidder" supplier agreement method.

    I paid $150 to get mine fixed by my local Mom and Pop garage. One advantage of the Grand Marquis is everyone knows how to work on it, so don't overpay for a dealer to fix it.

    One suggestion is to find the garage your local police uses for repairs - they will know the car inside and out.
  • boscoalboscoal Posts: 1
    I found the same thing on my controller . I also found a bad diode. Have not repaired it yet just found it due to your comments
    Thanks
    Al Malone
  • bigmercbigmerc Posts: 3
    My EATC(automatic Climate Control) is loosing vacuum.
    I checked the system, all doors function and do not loose vacuum, supply holds vacuum even post car being off, so storage canister is fine, no leaks in connection.
    What is left? EATC
    Symptoms are that air is coming from vent but changes to def/floor or will just come from def/floor.
    The only reason I can see after checking everything is that the solenoids in the EATC that regulate the vacuum to the different doors are not getting enough current. This in turn allows the opening to the outside air to open when the solenoid is activated and therefore loosing vacuum in that part of the system.
    Does anybody know how to fix this, short of replacing the EATC and does anybody have an electric schematic of the EATC?
  • jiggyflijiggyfli Posts: 1
    OKAY I AM NOT THE SMARTEST PERSON IN THE WORLD, BUT EVEN I SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND THE A/C DRIP LINE. BUT FOR WHATEVER REASON I CAN NOT FIND IT. MY A/C IS NOT DRIPPING AND I CAN HEAR WATER ROLLING AROUND IN MY DASH. I HAVE MY CAR UP ON JACKSTANDS RIGHT NOW BUT I STILL CAN NOT FIND IT. PLEASE HELP...............
  • 13 July 07
    Mr5x5,
    I've had the exact same problem in my 2001 GM LSE. Last year Feb. I had the blend door actuator replaced. I'm thinking that perhaps the mechanic bumped or somehow caused the Controller Board to have a solder crack. Until then, the blower worked fine. A short time after the repair I noticed that the blower was intermittent. My blower stopped completely last week.
    I could not find anything on line to explain this until I read your post. Can you explain where I find the "Controller Board" to check it out. Naturally with the LSE it has the center consul making everything a bit harder to access under the dash. It sounds like it needs to be inside the heater/AC box to maintain the right temperature so it doesn't burn out.
    I'd sure appreciate any advise you can give me.
    Thanks,
    Sweating it out in Phoenix Az. Whew!!!
    KeatsArizona :shades:
  • bryanm747bryanm747 Posts: 1
    My 2003 Crown Vic blower just stopped working.I took out the blower controller and inspected the solder connections. They looked fine, but when I used my ohmmeter to measure the continuity of the pins to the board, sure enough there was an open on one of the big lugs where it connects to the board. Even under a magnifying glass it looked ok. I scraped the board around where the pins connect and soldered them. Now it works great. I found that removing the stud where the ground wire and the heater hose connect to the block near the module, then using some bungee cords to pull on the heater hoses, it was a lot easier to get the module out of the AC duct. What a tight squeeze though!
  • My problem is exactly the same as that posted by bigmerc on July 5, 2007. I have a 2002 Grand Marquis LSE. Has anyone figured it out yet?
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