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Oldsmobile Intrigue Problem Codes/TSBs

The patient is a 99 Intrigue with the 3.5 shortstar and 96k on ther odo. For the last two months I have been noticing the service engine light comes on every so often (one or two days). When I read the code it is a P306, indicating that there was a misfire detected in Cylinder #6. I usually clear the code right after.
This seemed to have started right after I replaced all the plugs. I replaced #6 plug again, and subsequently swapped the ignition modules between both banks, expecting the misfire to appear at Cyl #1 if it was a bad coil or module.

I have also run three tankfuls of three different injector cleaners, one was by Prestone, the other two were Techron.

Any ideas? Has anyone seen this behavior and cured it? thanks.
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Comments

  • bayview6bayview6 Posts: 141
    First, I would NOT add any of those injector cleaners (except for the Chevron Techron) because they are very BAD for your fuel pump. I doubt that the misfire is fuel related since it is always cylinder #6.

    Did you change your sparkplug wires also??? That would be my prime suspect. Even if you did, the new wire might be bad.
  • Is there a way to read the code on a service engine light without going to a repair shop?
  • evandroevandro Posts: 1,108
    Yes, auto-parts retailers typically do that for free. I've done that before at AutoZone.

    HTH
  • Thought I'd post a follow up since the problem finally appears to have been fixed. I pulled off the connector to the #6 fuel injector and cleaned it with an electrical cleaning spray. Then I worked the connector on and off to get the contact friction to clean itself. No problems for the last two weeks, (fingers still crossed).
  • I am having the same problem. I feel like my car is chugging along and the service engine soon light come on and the computer pulls it up as it misfiring in cyl-5. So what do you suggest? I love the car but I am considering selling it because I have this problem every 3-4 weeks. Please help.
  • Your number five cylinder is along the far (rear) side of the engine, the one closest to the driver. Once you rmove the top decorative cover, you will be able to see the connector going to the injector. remove the connector and clean it with some electrical contact cleaner spray. Then push it on andf off a few times to get rid of any internal corrosion. Also make sure there is no tension (tugging on the wire in any direction) on the wire once the connector is on. Good luck...
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I'm driving on I-78 in NJ on Saturday and I feel a "bump" under the hood then the "Service Engine Soon" light comes on. Of course bad things come to mind since it is Christmas, I don't get paid for another two weeks, and oh yeah, I am 150 miles from home and it is 11:00 at night. Since the car was driving "normal" I kept going until i needed gas. I read up on the "Service Engine Soon" in my manual and it is the equivalent of the "Check Engine" light in many cars. Knowing that the light ws not flashing was a relief. I continued down the road and the light went off. Great! About 10 miles down the road, I feel that "bump" under the hood and the light comes back on. Go figure. All is fine the rest of the drive. The next afternoon I go to Advance Auto parts (they have the coolest tools to play with) and they do a free diagnostic check. The code P0101 came up which referes ot the "mass Air Flow (MAF)" or the "volume air flow (VAF)". They thougth I needed a new mass air flow sensor.

    given the code P0101, will replacing the mass air flow sensor solve my "Service Engine Soon" problem? I did notice my gas mileage was down about 2-3 mpg.

    Thanks
  • P0101 code is indeed the mass airflow sensor. The Service Engine soon light is letting you know that the MAF sensor is about to take a hike. This happened to me about 2 months ago with 188K miles. Car would start, then it would not. Pushed it to the mechanic (to get codes read), got to the mechanic, turned the key, it started. I have no idea what the thunk is prior to the SES light coming on, but if your code reader says the MAF sensor is bad, replace it. I think Auto Zone charges about 89-100 dollars with the core return. It is really simple to install 2 screws, and a pigtail. All is well after that. Oh, don't forget to reset ECM by disconnecting battery for 10 minutes when done. Drive car 10 miles. If no light, then no codes set, problem solved. Oh wait, you say that now the radio doesn't work anymore...? Don't forget the Theft-loc radio codes before you disconnect battery!

    Regards,

    Mark
  • Well.
    A code reader tells you what the ECM "sees", not always what is wrong.

    A code is merely a guide and not gospel.

    The MAF sensor may be bad, however you must first verify(unless you have lots of money to spend) a un-corroded electrical connection and the sensor. It is inline from the air box to the intake throttle.

    Verify that there are no leaks in the hose or at the air box or throttle. How's the air filter?. The MAF measures air going into the intake manifold. Any un-metered air (through a crack, PCV valve hoses etc etc) will create problems for the ECM not being able to figure out what the MAF is telling it.

    The bang may be the pcm dropping the car into default/limp mode as it cannot figure out what the sensors are telling it. (Or that the signal from the MAF disappears, for whatever reason)bad sensor? bad wiring? bad air flow?

    Also check for vacuum leaks at the MAP sensor. Faulty info from this guy can set a MAF code. This sensor monitors air pressure/elevation. Higher teh elevation, less oxygen. The ecm needs to know this and correlates all of the data from several sensors.

    The sensor is a fine tiny delicate piece of wire that can be contaminated if oil gets to it, sometimes a cleaner can be sprayed on it if your careful, although a dealer will probably never do this.

    You can change the sensor if you like, however, like all codes, there can be many reasons why they are set. Without properly diagnosing the output from the sensor relative to input provided to it, you are effectively guessing.

    reseting the ECM is done by erasing the ecm memory( ie erasing the code/freezeframe data stored in memory. Disconnecting the battery will not erase codes on OBD2 cars. post 1996.

    The code is "reset" by erasing the codes with a reader/scanner or by eliminating the cause of the error and going through the appropriate drive, start, or warm up cycles which is dependent on the code.
    What engine are you running?

    cheers.
  • I agree. Don't just change the MAF sensor without checking some other things. I set and cleared the MAF code about 3 times over a year ago, and the problem went away by itself. Then recently, I set the code about 3 times within a week. The engine speed was dropping very low when braking to stop or turn, so I thought I should do something. I changed the MAF sensor (~$100) and the same code was set about 2 days later.

    We have Mitchell electronic manual at work, and it says to check for other things -
    Skewed or stuck Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
    Sticking throttle plate or deposits on plate or bore
    TPS connection short or poor connection
    Poor connection at PCM or sensor
    Misrouted or damaged wire harness
    Plugged intake duct or dirty air filter
    Water entering intake system and contaminating MAF

    I wish I would have checked this before spending the money.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Great information!!! I have 2000 Intrigue with 3.5L engine. The interestign thing is I drove to and from work (89 miles total) and the light was on. Tuesday morning I noticed about halfway to work that the light was not on. The Service Engine soon light is still off. So it could very well have been one of the other items that may have tripped the sensor.

    It has been extremely cold here (high of only 25 today, low of 0 last night). I'm not a mechanic but I'm not afraid to look under the hood and get dirty. I'll check the hoses and air filter and some of the wiring. I don't feel like throwing money for a MAF when the air filter is dirty.

    Thanks Moonshadow.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    blue_2000 and moonshadow: the Check Engine light (code P0101 - MAF) hasn't been on for a two weeks now but I still want to check some of the items like the TPS and throttle body. How do you go about checking those items?
  • Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I was waiting to see if my SES light would stay off. Update - I changed the MAF, car stopped trying to stall at stops, but SES light came on again, same code. I changed the air filter about 2 weeks ago, cleared the code and it has not returned so far.

    As for checking other things - It is probably a good idea to check the throttle plate and throttle body for carbon build-up. Take off the air intake tube, and check for black build-up. Manually turn the throttle plate and look inside. Use carb or choke cleaner and a rag to clean it up. Make sure the air intake tubes are both tight, too.

    To really check the TPS, you would probably need a mult-meter and need to know what the voltages are supposed to be at each pin on the connector. You might find that in a service manual.

    Hope this helps some.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    No problem with the response time. I'll clean the throttle body on Sunday. I checked the air filter before and it seemed clean. I think I'll just replace it. No harm in that.

    Mine had been off for a while and reared it's head this week. It was about 25-30 minutes into a 2 hour return trip and the light came back on. Stayed on for a couple of days and then went off again. My gas mileage is back up to 26-27 mpg (that's 95% highway at 75mph). I bet I could get to 29 or 30 if I slowed down a bit.

    Thanks blue
  • Please help me! My wife owns a 2000 Olds Intrigue and the accelerator is sticking quite badly. I want to clean the throttle body. Where is it and how do I clean it? I appreciate any and all help! Thanks, Kevin
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    Follow the hose from the air cleaner assembly it goes right into the throttle body. Easy to remove with screw driver. Spray cleaner into the tb with the car running. You will have to rev the engine to keep it running. The accelerator cable is attached to the tb and can be pulled by hand.
  • I have cleaned the throttle body many times to solve this issue. There are three nuts holding the body on remove them, put rags under the body and clean the inside with carb cleaner and a rag. This will last about six months, also check your PVC valve.
  • So I am doing some research for my friend who has a 2000 Olds Intrigue with the 3.5 litre V6 with 205k. Apparently, the lil bugger is throwing a code for camshaft position sensor, bank one. Autoparts place had the sensor for ~$30. My questions are
    1. where is the sensor
    2. has anyone done this replacement (and can offer some insight)?
    3. what else could trigger that code besides an actual bad sensor? Could it actually be a wear issue with the timing chain @205k?
    4. Anyone know of a good picture of the 3.5 with some circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one explaining what sensor is what?
    Thanks for your help.
  • nbnernbner Posts: 15
    Looking at the engine from the front of the car, the camshaft position sensor is located on the left side of the rear head. If you remove the coolant overflow container, you will be able to find it very easily. You will need a 10mm wrench or socket to remove the set bolt, then with a flat screw driver you can very gently pry it out. Just pop the new one in and tighten the bolt. Be careful when attaching the plug.
  • Thanks that really helped. We were checking it out this afternoon and I thought that's what it was, but it was great to have confirmation. It also helped to have the how to...I figured it couldn't be that bad but I wanted to make sure you didn't have to take half the car apart to get access. I think I am going to help him swap it out after work tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.
    Thanks again.
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