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Oldsmobile Intrigue Problem Codes/TSBs

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  • 01 Intrigue has engine code P1258. Just had smog test done and failed with faulty gas cap. Replaced today. Can't find any more info on remaining engine code problem.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    According to my info P1258 is an overheating condition. It says the PCM starts shutting down cylinders in order to cool the engine. Does it run poorly? Is the temp gauge about where it normally is? Mine rarely goes above the 1/2 mark. If everything seems normal, disconnect the negative bat. terminal for a few minutes and reconect it again. This should clear the code, at least temporarily. If the temp. gauge is reading high, you have a cooling system that needs help.
  • dmbeyerdmbeyer Posts: 2
    The service engine soon light recently lit up my dash. The troubleshooting code came back at P0420 "Catalyst efficiency low bank 1. Anyone have experience with this code? Any ideas on how to resolve this problem?
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Has anyone had a problem with your dash lighting up like a Christmas Tree? Sometimes, usually after it's warmed up, the following lights stay on after starting it up: ABS, Service Vehicle Soon, Trac Off, BRAKE, PCS. I had a mechanic scan it when the lights were not on, and he said the only thing in the history was C0550, which is an electronic brake control module (EBCM) malfunction. He thinks this module is failing. Has anyone had one of these replaced? I know it will be expensive. The mechanic guessed about $600.

    Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Before he replaces the EBCM, have him check the wheel hub assembly. The ABS sensors are on the wheel hub assembly and sometimes the sensors fail causing those lights to come on. Unfortunatley, you have to buy the entire wheel assembly. They can be salty. Normally only the ABS, Service Engine soon, Trac Off lights come on with a bad wheel sensor. So your mechanic could be right but the wheel sensor is a very common repair on the Intrigue.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Thanks for your reply. I took it to the mechanic again today while the warning lights were ON. He scanned it and said it had the same code, C0550, EBCM malfunction. He said if the wheel speed sensor had a problem it would show up on his scanner. I called a dealer and they wanted $1014 for the part. After regaining consciousness, I told him never mind. I called a small independent parts shop and they said they could get the same dealer part for $715. I checked GM parts direct and it was $643. I'm not done yet. I still think I can find it cheaper. BTW, the p/n the dealer gave me is 88894772.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    C0550
    This DTC identifies a malfunction within the EBCM. (electronic brake control module )

    Conditions for Running the DTC
    The ignition switch is in the ON position.

    Conditions for Setting the DTC
    DTC C0550 is set when an internal EBCM malfunction exists.

    Action Taken When the DTC Sets
    If equipped, the following actions occur:

    * The EBCM disables the ABS/TCS/VSES and MSVA for the duration of the ignition cycle.
    * A malfunction DTC will set.
    * The ABS indicator turns on.
    * The TCS indicator turns on.
    * The PCS indicator turns on.
    * The Red BRAKE Warning indicator turns on.

    Conditions for Clearing the DTC

    * The condition for the DTC is no longer present (the DTC is not current) and you used the scan tool Clear DTC function.
    * The EBCM automatically clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 100 consecutive drive cycles.


    Had your mechanic tried clearing/reset the codes with his scanner? 'Cause a100 drive cycles may take a couple months depending on driving habits.

    I would for the fun of it, disconnect the battery and unplug then replug the connector going into the EBCM and then reconnect the batt.

    EBCM is under the hood right of the master cylinder in front of the box with all the brake lines.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Thanks Moonshadow. I think I will disconnect the battery. Right now I'm a little worried that replacing this module won't cure the problem, and them I'm out $700. My mechanic has a nice Snap-on scanner, but he said it won't do everything that the dealer scanner will do. He said it might be worth spending $100 at the dealer so they could do a functional test of the EBCM. If the problem continues, I might do that. I will still come out ahead since I'm saving $300 on the part.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Update on EBCM. I did some research and found a place that will rebuild the brake module for $200. I shipped it today. The company is called Modulemaster. They also sell them on ebay. The feedback is all positive. Their warranty is 5 years. I'll post again after I get it back and try it out. If it works, it will be a $1000 savings compared to the dealer part and labor.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Last update on Brake Module (I hope). I receicved the brake module back from ModuleMaster on Monday. So far everything is working normal again. All warning lights are out. They gave me a sheet of what was repaired. The main problem was "no communication". This module was a Bosch 5.3. If it fails again, I'll post back, but I think this was the right move. $200 plus shipping. This was a huge savings. I removed it and installed it myself. A little tough, but not too bad. I would like to see more places like this. Not good for the dealer parts business however.
  • Thanks for the update on the brake module. You said "a little tough, but not too bad." Could you tell us how and what you removed and sent to Modulemaster. Was the car drivable while the module was out?

    How long did the repair take and how long to install the new part?

    Appreciate your help.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    The EBCM is attached to the Brake Pressure Modulator. It's behind the air cleaner housing on my 2002 Intrigue. On some earlier years I was told it is inside the car. I don't think I could exactly reiterate the step by step procedure I did, but basically I had to move some things out of the way, like the body brace (long black steel brace that helps keep the front end rigid), cruise control module, air cleaner housing (top and middle, but not the very bottom). You will need a T-20 torx screwdriver (Sears, AutoZone, etc.).

    Disconnect the battery (which I forgot to do, but no damage was done).
    Disconnect the large electrical connector in the front of the module (pull the white locking tab to the left about 3 inches).
    Remove the 6 torx-head screws (this is a little tough because the bottom two are hard to see. Also, if your torx screwdriver is too long it will make it difficult. Try not to drop the screws. I was lucky.
    Once the screws are out you can separate the module from the BPM by pulling it apart. It's a little tricky here because there are about 12 solenoid coils that you have to clear while pulling this thing away. The hardest part was putting it back on and trying to line them all up. I got frustrated and walked away for about 30 minutes, but I tried it again and it fell into place.
    One more thing: there is an electrical plug on the bottom of the module that you have to disconnect after you separate the module from the BPM.

    I think I made this sound tougher than it really is. If you've had any luck working on cars, then you can probably do it. If you are not very mechanically inclined, then don't do it. It took about 2-1/2 hours total. I could probalby do it again in an hour.

    Yes, the car is driveable just fine, but no ABS, just regular brakes. None of this requires opening the hydraulic brake lines.

    Modulemaster turned it around in 2 or 3 days, I can't remember. I used USPS Priority mail with insurance. It only took 2 days to get there and I live 2000 miles away.

    Modulemaster has lots of info on their website. Mine is working great so far and I would recommend them.

    What makes you think your EBCM is bad?
  • Can anyone help with this? Reader showed TPS low voltage. Car runs, starts fine (after replacing fuel pump), but does not know it's time to shift from 1st to second gear. Does it point to replacing the sensor, or is there something else I should check? Vacume?
  • took car to get check out code po741 tcc stuck off is that hard to fix al
  • Got this code twice now. Cleared it, and it again came back. I know it relates to the evap system, what is common on a 98 Intrigue?? Gas Cap? Is there anything more common that sets this fault on these cars?
  • _dc__dc_ Posts: 1
    Can anyone describe the procedure to get the Theft-loc codes from the radio prior to disconnecting the battery?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I changed the battery twice in my Intrigue and don't remember having a problem with the theft-loc radio controls. You may want to check the owner's manual or the driver sider door jam.
  • Anyone have any ideas ?? Just replaced the canister purge solenoid and all vacuum hoses...

    Still getting a p1676 code...canister purge solenoid...anyone have any ideas on what it might be ??

    I need to pass emissions test,and car wont pass with 'Service Engine Soon light on.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,023
    Since you put in a new one, first thing to check would be the connections. Is that the only trouble code you're seeing?

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • bigbuckeyebigbuckeye Posts: 4
    1676 is the solenoid valve...but there isn't just one...there are two even three of those on any car.

    I have a 98 Olds Intrigue...I changed both solenoids..one in the front on the engine and the other one was under the wheel well....I am still getting 1676.
  • bigbuckeyebigbuckeye Posts: 4
    The only trouble code I have is 1676.

    I checked all connections.
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