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Oldsmobile Intrigue Electrical / Lighting Problems

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Comments

  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Sounds like a short in the wiring for the mutifunction lever, although I have never heard of that before. I use to have an Impala that needed one of these due to non-functioning high beam lights. The dealer wanted $600 so I decided to live without high beams. DIY can be tricky on these multifunction levers.
  • istdocistdoc Posts: 2
    My '98 Intrigue speedometer light just died. One mechanic says he will start digging for electrical problems (@ $65/hour) with no guarantee of results. The dealer says the whole speedo assembly is modular and requires unit R&R (@ $350/unit)to the tune of 2 hours (@ $85/hour). This is a freaking light bulb! Can the light be replaced without a complete speedo module? How difficult is it? Where can I find instructions? Much appreciated!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    When I replaced the ignition switch on my 2000 Intrigue, I did replace a light bulb in the speedometer. I can't remember the bulb number but I bought the bulb from Advance Auto part. The salesman said it was a typical GM light bulb for their gages.

    You can alos replace the speedometer cluster with a used unit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-Oldsmobile-Intrigue-Speedometer_W0QQitemZ150- - - 384262106QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item230399bb- - - da

    Directions to remove the speedometer cluster are here: http://www.carspace.com/guides/Cleaning-the-Ignition-Switch-on-a-2000-Intrigue

    these directions are for a 2000 Intrigue. Follow to Phase 2; number 3. Hopefully it's the same for a 1998.

    You can always remove th speedometer cluster and check the bulbs. If that doesn't work, get the cluster from EBay.

    Hope this helps.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Pictures are worth a thousand words. great pics!
  • I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue 3.5 with 245,000 miles and it has two issues I can't figure out.

    1. It will not start using the key, I have to jump the bottom two pins on the Crank relay. I have changed the crank relay, had the starter tested, checked all the fuses. Now it will only start for 2 or 3 seconds and then die....

    2. The instrument cluster will not work at all now. the gauges would die and then come back. Not all at one time. Now all will not work.
    I really like my car and want to fix it, I just don't want to spend allot of money on it.

    Any help would great. Thanks in advance.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    1. When it starts and shuts off after 2 0r 3 seconds, are you using the key or jumping the crank relay? When you turn the key to the "on" position, do you hear the fuel pump? It's a light hum from the left that lasts for 2-3 seconds. When the car does not start with the key, does it make any noise? does it sound like it "wants" to start but simply won't turn over? Are there any CEL lights?

    2. This could be related to issue 1.

    Based on your post, you already eliminated the crankshaft sensor. It seems like it is not getting a signal from the ignition which leads me to suspect the ignition switch. (Surprise, surprise). It also could be the fuel pressure regulator. On another Intrigue forum, the FPR is another common problem as well. If the ignition isn't working, then I can see the instrument cluster also not working.

    it seems like you are handy under the hood. I would check the pressure on the FPR. I think it is suppose to be in the 40+ psi range. If that checks out fine, I would look at the ignition switch. I posted directions; another forum regular posted pictures which are great. You can try cleaning the contacts or simply replace it. I bought mine at Fisher Auto parts (local) or you can order it from www.gmpartsdirect.com or www.rockauto.com. folks have had good luck with these two websites.
  • When I jump the crank relay, its the only way it will crank now. When I use the key to start the lights on the dash go dead, radio, clock, etc. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to on. What are CEL lights? I used a code reader on it last night and no codes were present.

    I have thought of the ignition switch before. A couple years and 100,000 miles ago I had the problem with making a left turn and it dies. I took all the keys off my ring except the car key and it stopped. I will check the FPR tonight.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    "I have thought of the ignition switch before. A couple years and 100,000 miles ago I had the problem with making a left turn and it dies. I took all the keys off my ring except the car key and it stopped. I will check the FPR tonight."

    I had the same thing happen to me with my Intrigue. The CEL are Check Engine Lights (Check Engine Soon; Service Engine Soon).

    If the FPR checks fine, the igntion switch is likely the culprit.
  • rponderrponder Posts: 1
    I think it's crazy for someone to spend $360 dollars on a window regulator, I bought on new for $21 dollars and used one on E-bay fr $12 with a motor. I never replaced one before but it was easy and took less than an hour. I think you have been getting ripped off.
  • srwilson8074srwilson8074 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    Oldsmobile, one of the finest automobiles ever made until the intrigue. My wifes bought a 2000 olds intrigue GLS. From a motor head stand point the car is very responsive, the nirth star motor can put the rubber to the ground. The mileage for a car its size is very impressionable. The handling of the car is very rigid and handles fantastic. The problem with this car is the electrical system.
    Lights flickering, dash lights flickering, head lights do not work, if you push the cruise control the radio will not work. The high beams work only if you hold the turn signal back towards steering wheel. I replaced the headlight switch and it worked for about a year. I have checked the ground and I have also added extra ground wires in the engine compartment. I have checked the fuses, cleaned all the connections and used di electric grease. Still have the same problem. I guess my wife and I are spoiled because we also have a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme, the car has 300,000 miles on it and other then basic maintance items this car has been trouble free. Not insult intended but my wife does not take care of the car the way she should, she has changed the oil three times ( I have changed it or the shop has done the serviceing) This car gets almost 30 miles per gallon still, I wish they would have left great enough alone. I am at witts end with the electrical problem and I am not going to send to GM they will bleed you dry for a problem they created. Dont like foreign cars but at least they get a warrantee. :confuse:
  • netman55netman55 Posts: 4
    I have an 2002 gls and my sunroof is not working which direction did you push to get it operational and do you know of the electrical system for it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
    Thank you
  • netman55netman55 Posts: 4
    I had various problems with my 2002 old intrigue gls and eventually I had to replace the alternator, your problem sounds more like the voltage regulator but unfortunately the voltage reg is built into the alternator. But instead of going to a service station find a company that sells rebuilt alternators and find a good backyard mechanic that way it will only cost about 200 for the rebuilt and usually for a mechanic working under the table about 100. This is what I did and have no more problems. A dealer or professional shop will want between 900 and 1400 to do the job I would suggest to have it scoped first that would cost about 40-50 dollars.That would confirm your problem. It took almost 1 year for my alternator to completely go.

    Good Luck
  • josadajosada Posts: 2
    I have a friend with a 2002 Olds Intrigue with a signal light problem. The left front signal burns out in a very short period of time. It may last a couple of weeks but has burnt out in less than a day. I don't want to replace her headlight assembly if that is not the problem. Does anyone have an answer to this problem. It has always been new bulbs used and this problem is only with the left front signal light. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    You need to replace the electrical socket. It's a common problem with the Intrigues. You can buy the socket either online or at the dealership. Very easy to replace yourself.
  • josadajosada Posts: 2
    Thanks. I appreciate the info. I'll buy a new socket tomorrow!!!
  • My husband has a 98 Olds Intrigue. He has done a complete engine swap, tranny, computer, ext. After he change the engine and trans it would work. But after he changed the computer the car will not crank. He can get it to start when he hooks us a push button, but it will not start when he tries to actually turn the key. The fuel pump kicks on when you turn it to the on position, just none of the light on the dash come on or will it start. Any suggestions? He thinks it the BCM, but I do not want to put anymore money in this car unless I know FORSURE that is what it is. Anybody have any advice?
  • My 1999 Olds Intrigue has a similar problem. The right turn signal keeps burning out.
    The mechanic that I took my car to, thinks the ignition switch is the problem. I'm currently looking for a reconditioned switch. Ordering a switch from the GM/Chevrolet dealer will cost about $200. Since my car is so old, I hesitate to spend that kind of money on it, although the engine and transmission are still functioning well. The wires that the turn signal plugs into have already been replaced. The mechanic didn't find a significant drain on the battery (ie a short). It's possible that when the ignition key is turned it shorts out for a moment.

    If anyone has an insight into my problem please let me know.
  • 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue, one-owner, kept in immaculate condition. The value right now, though, is lessened because of two things: Leaks in the right rear passenger section (maybe fixed...not sure...it hasn't rained in Indiana for 2 months since it was supposedly "fixed".). AND...the big CLUNK.

    Fully loaded in Bloomington, IN, we took off on a trip first to Cincinnati, then New Orleans, then Florida, then home. 20 miles from home we stopped for coffee at McDonald's. I went inside, and my wife stayed in the car. She came in about 5 minutes after I left her. The car had been idling, then idled rough (new gas?), then quit. She tried to re-start it, and it started, with rough idling and a "horrible smell". It stopped again.

    Never to re-start.

    The tow truck picked it up and took it to an agreeable mechanic who, after his lunch, put it on the rack. He found a starter with a broken nose. Replaced it. Bill for towing, charging, the rack, and broken starter replacement was $396. (I think he saw a traveller in need.)

    However, when he put it back on the ground, it wouldn't start. The mechanic turned it over with a torque bar, and it would only turn 1/4 clockwise or 1/2 counter-clockwise. His diagnosis: Engine is frozen. His solution: junk the engine and put in a used one.

    Estimate from another shop (that I trust to do the work is $2895. I don't think it is worth it.

    QUESTIONS:

    1. Would I get my money back if I put the $2900 work into it?
    2. Would I have a car to still drive if I put the work into it?
    3. Is it worth having the work done...or should I abandon this good looking vehicle to the salvage yard?
    4. Finally...are there any ideas about WHY THE ENGINE DID THIS...and WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT?

    Thanks for listening...

    -Kurt-
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Before spending money on a new ignition switch, take a close look at the turn signal socket and see if there any black (burned) marks on the contacts. If you see the burned marks on the contacts, replace the socket. Any GM dealership should sell the part.

    REgarding the ignition switch, you can use an aftermarket switch. I replaced my switch using one I bought at a local auto part store. I think I paid around $100 for the switch and replaced it myself.

    Good luck.
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