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Oldsmobile Intrigue Heating and Cooling

245

Comments

  • HOW WAS U ABLE TO PULL OUT THE COMPRESSOR? VERY TIGHT SPOT, AND ONE MECHANIC TOLD ME IT WOULD TAKE ABOUT 5 HOURS FOR EVERYTHING , FROM REMOVING OLD TO PUTING IT BACK TOGETHER AND CHARGING.....HOW MUCH DID UR COMPRESSOR RUN AND WHAT YEAR IS YOUR INTRIGUE? STILL HAVENT FOUND THE WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR, AND HAD SHOP DID IT FOR ME. ONLY PROBLEM NOW IS THAT THEY FINISHED WRECKING THE AC COMPRESSOR BEARING AND NOW I HAVE TO REPLACE THE COMPRESSOR NO MATTER WHAT. dON'T WANT TO FINISH DAMAGING THE ENGINE, SEEMS LIKE BEARING IS SEIZED.
    :sick:
  • top666top666 Posts: 5
    Compressor was about $170 got it from napa, not too bad to change, take out the battery, and the battery holder as it will give you plenty of room to remove it. the compressor itself only took about 1 hour for remova and install, then however long it takes to get it recharged. That was on a '98
  • Suggest for warranty reasons that you buy the compressor, dryer (accumulator), and orifice tube from the same place. Compressor warranty if void if other items aren't replaced and most won't accept the fact you bought them somewhere else. I had problems finding a dryer, even through the GM dealer. Ended up getting the parts from the local AC Delco parts dealer. Cost more but has one year warranty on the Delco compressor. Good Luck!
  • top666top666 Posts: 5
    Got the drier(@ $20) and orifice tube (@ $6) from the local napa as well
  • I have a '99 3.5 L V6 with about 80,000 miles on it. Great car and love it to death, but the the following from an unanswered post by kristend earlier in this thread sums up my issue pretty good:

    "Some days when I start the car, the climate control works fine. Other times, it wil be completely shut off (no lights, no air, no heat, nothin'.)"

    I'll pretty much ditto that. Anyone have any ideas? Most of the time it works, but sometimes (probably about half the time) it doesn't turn on at all. After driving for a little bit, the whole unit, lights, air, and everything else will kick on. Like I say, not an every time issue, but often enough to be annoying. Any help would be greatly apreciated, and feel free to write me at AMCurnes@hotmail.com if you don't feel like posting here. Thanks!
  • Have not heard of this specifically, but it sounda like it is probably the climate control head unit. Is it possible that it is overheating (the unit itself), or that there is a loose connection to the back of the unit, fuse box relay unit or computer. All of this is a guess, but I would take a good look at the wiring, and trace it back. :confuse:
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    I just bought an 01 GLS with 33K!
    The drivers side heated seat is not working. When I press the switch the orange light comes on for about 4 seconds then goes out. It does the same for HI or LOW temperature settings.

    As I was told, air conditioning needs to be charged. Would this affect the heat output? The car has climate control as opposed to traditionally separate buttons for AC and Heat. Warm air was coming out but not warm enough for my ankles.

    The recycle air button keeps switching off and the outside air button switches on. Is this some sort of default? I haven't read the manual yet .

    I bought the car this afternoon. I will be registering it tomorrow. I plan to have the oil and filter changed tomorrow. Any suggestions on what else I should do for it on my first full day of ownership?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Congrats on the Intrigue. I don't have heated seats so I can't comment on that. You may want to check the manual to see if there must be a certain temperature for the seats to operate.

    The AC needing freon should not affect the heat. With the auto climate control, it will not blow out hot air until the car warms up. On cold days, it could take a several minutes to feel warm air. Also the climate control system depends on the outside temperature sensor. In other words, you simply set the temperature you want it and the car dictates where the air is comes from (defrost, below, vents, etc.) based on the outside temperature. This may explain why the recirculate button keeps switching off. Is the outside temperature sensor working properly? If not, it is extremely easy to replace.

    Along with the oil and filter, i would also get the coolant changed since it is over 5 years old. I would also change the transmission fluid.
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    my driver side heated seat indicator goes on for about three seconds (both low and high) and shuts off. The heat doesn't come on.
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    I drove through some wet slushy conditions last night and the signals stopped working for a bit on both sides. Is there an area along the wire route where I could or should do some water proofing? Is this going to happen alot? I put 185000 miles on my 98 regal and never had an electrical problem.
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    I'm going to spread some sound dampener in the trunk and front doors. What fragile things to watch for? I would like to be be able to re-attatch things when I'm done with the install. I'll also be putting in a new head unit, amp, f&r speakers.
    What is the best way to run the power and gound to the amp?
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    I reposted 42 & 43 in appropriate discussions. Sorry for clutter. I just figured out how to edit these. duh
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    The hot air blows out on the passenger side when I have the heat on. It comes out more forcefully but cool on the drvivers side. this is true for vents and floor.
    Has any one else experienced this?
  • I'm guessing my heater core is starting to go. Just recently my windows have been fogging up and now and then get the smell of antifreeze in the car. Has anyone changed it before? If so, is it located under the dash near the blower motor?

    Thanks,
    Chad
  • manolikamanolika Posts: 1
    Ok, here is a strange thing, at least it`s strange for me... i bought a 00 olds. intrigue , A/C working fine for like 5 days, then suddenly stops working without any noise or sign the car was not even in running period...how did those dealers boosted this system so that it`s gonna work only for a couple of days ?? , what could be the problem ???

    any ideas are welcome,

    thanks,
    Zoli
  • I'm having the same problem with the AC. Driver side is blowing hot air while the passenger side is cold. Both the Driver and Pass dials are set to 60 degrees. It almost seems like a vent valve is stuck.

    Any recommendations?

    thanks,
    jeff
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Posts: 10
    Check the fuse first. Look to see if the compressor clutch is engaged and compressor spinning. If not, something electrical is keeping it off. If it's getting power to the clutch and compressor isn't spinning, the clutch is bad. Next quick check is to see if the servo motors are working on the mixing duct. Pull the A/C fuse and turn on the key but don't start it. Plug in the fuse and listen closely under the dash near the center. Should hear the servos sweep the damper from open to close to calibrate the circuit. If you don't hear it, problem is likely the servo. I had to change the driver's side on mine as it was blowing hot when the pass side was cold. If the compressor is running and still no cold air, check the pressure. My compressor lost a valve and it just quit pumping. No noise and immediate failure. Had to change the compressor. Refer to earlier discussion in this string. Good Luck!
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    This happened once to me (cold on one side, got on other.) After re-starting the car, the problem went away. Dealer said that a switch can get stuck. Have you changed settings to force heat instead of AC? In other words, make the switch do something outside of how it is set now.
    You might try disconnecting the negative cable on the battery to reset it. (This is how to get rid of a ServEngSoon light-on as well.) If it does not reset to normal, you need to replace a part. Sorry, that's all i can supply on this one. (Our family has two 'trigues and my brother's family also have two. We like these cars. We are tall and the have the most front-seat leg room of any car I would want to drive.
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    There are fuses on the right end of the dash board. You have to open the passenger door to see the panel. There is a finger hole for yanking the cover off. A "Fuse Usage Chart" is on the inside of the cover along with a few spare fuses in a foam cushion. The first row down and "B" across says "LOW BLOWER 20 A." I noticed on the panel that the corresponding slot was empty so I pulled a spare 20A fuse out of the foam cushion and placed it. It did seem to me that my problem went away. I was having forceful air in the drivers side but no heat, and the opposite - heat but no force - on the passenger side. It is summer so the air is going to seem hot no matter what but I did think the air was blowing hard on the passenger side now.
  • Oldsgeorge -- Would you happen to know the part number for the driver's side servo that you replaced? All I'm able to get from the dealer is the entire control module.

    Thanks!
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Posts: 10
    It was an aftermarket part and I don't recall who I got it from. Thought it came from RockAuto but I checked their site and didn't see it. It has the letters CEI and YPP-6F30 stamped on the case. Bar code number was 52402588. Hope that helps.
  • OK, so I found the part number myself when I took it off (its 16163982 for anyone who needs it). I removed the actuator, and I still cannot figure out what is wrong. I can move the blend door from end to end by hand, and it feels and sounds like it is sealing on either side. Even when closing it by hand, I'm still seeing a good 15 degree temperature difference between the driver and passenger (when set to coldest temp).

    Is it possible that the blend door is cracked or something? It doesn't feel like it is binding or loose or anything. Could it be a faulty bypass for the heater core? I'm assuming that it has a coolant shut-off for the heater core when on A/C. Maybe that is failing, and it is heating up the drivers side more?

    Any ideas, before I tear the whole dash out?

    Thanks!
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Posts: 10
    There's no heater shutoff valve. Hot water is available to moderate the temperature when the A/C is on. Sounds like the door is still attached to the shaft. I doubt a crack would let enough air by to cause the temp difference you see. Could be something preventing it from closing all the way but anything is just a guess. Would be interesting to thread a boroscope down the vent and see what is in there. Good luck finding one though. Not many shops have such an expensive tool. Let us know what you find.

    Regards
  • My neighbor works at a Pontiac dealership, and he after doing a little research he came back with "low on refrigerant". I didn't think much of it, since I already charged the system yesterday, so I went back to troubleshooting.

    Just for grins, I decided to check the pressure on the AC system again, and I found that it was still on the low side (~22). This is where I realized that with the connector i have, you have to press it down and hold it for it to open the valve. When I was filling it yesterday, all I was filling was the hose and the gauge.

    After a good charge, I think I'm back in business. The air is still a little bit cooler on the passenger side, but overall it is fine. So, for everyone who has had this crazy problem, being low on freon can be a big factor.
  • I too am having the same problem with my 2000 Intrigue.

    Could you give me a general idea as to where the actuator is that you were able to remove prior to tearing out the entire dash? I'm looking around and I can't find anything to check.

    Much appreciation.

    Russ
  • oldwinooldwino Posts: 20
    I've got a 98 intrique that the air blows out all the openings(defrost, dash and floor) all the time, no matter what the mode setting is showing on the hvac control display. Freon is not an issue as it blows cold on AC. Any info on possible causes or fixes would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • My digital climate control works well for the driver's side, but when I turn the dial for the temperature for the passenger side, there is no change to the display. The air temperature changes fine on the driver's side, but is luke warm all of the time on the passenger side.

    I think the controller in the dash is bad. Anybody know this one?

    Also the car is a 99 Intrigue and I can cheaply get a 2000 climate controller. They seem very similar. Anyone know if I can put the 2000 controller in the 1999? The only difference I see is an "AC" button on the 99, but an "Econ" button on the 2000. The two buttons are located in the same spot on the two parts.
  • Ok I too am having problems with my AC only blowing cold on the passenger side and hot on the drivers. My brother in law's dad, which was a mechanic on Chrysler products for 30 or so years, said it was the actuator but the he didn't really feel comfortable fixing it. I have found what I believe to be the actuator, or at least according to the rockauto.com websites pics and several other websites photos. I found the same thing on both sides, so is there one on each side? Now on the actuator there is a white round piece that sticks out some and turns when you change the temp settings. There are two notches on the round white thing and three small ridges on the houseing of the actuator that line up with one of the notches. When I turn the temp setting to hot the actuator on the passenger side turns from one of the ridges all the way over to the third ridge, or about a 1/4 turn, but on the drivers side it only turn to the next ridge, or about 1/8 of a turn. So with it doing this is it most likely my actuator or is it something more?

    Also here is a pic of what the websites are calling the actuator, I am including it so you folks can tell me if I am looking at the right part and see the things I am describing.

    image
  • You are correct! That is the damper servo unit that controls the temperature damper. When you install it, need to pull the HVAC fuse for a few minutes. Turn the key on with the AC turned on and plug the fuse back in. The servo should sweep from full closed to full open. This calibrates itself to the full open and closed positions. You'll hear them running for a few seconds when the fuse is plugged in. Get someone to plug in the fuse while you watch the indicator. If it doesn't go from full closed to full open something is wrong.
  • Ok so is this something fairly easy to do. I can get to it, I am pretty sure, without taking any of the dash apart. Is this something that just slides out and simply slides back in or what?
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