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Oldsmobile Intrigue Heating and Cooling

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Comments

  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Posts: 10
    Anyone ever find the orifice tube? I'm looking for it too.
  • top666top666 Posts: 5
    I did finally find it, and you are gonna love how.....cost me $230 to get it changed by a shop. They had to(or chose to) remove the master cylinder, and complete air box to get at it. If you follow the lines and look between the master cylinder and air box you will be able to find the crimps in the line that show you where the oriface tube sits. My A/C finally works like new after a whole lot of chasing my tail. Hope that helps!!! :mad:
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Posts: 10
    Thanks for the info! I pulled the air box today but still didn't see it. Looks like the master cyl is next! Regards
  • Hi: I am new to this forum. I have a 2000 Intrigue. I also had an o/s temp sensor go bad. I bought the sensor. $9.45 and installed it from the bottom. Very easy, just pull push not out, replace sensor and put it back in. Worked like a charm. Five minute job. Duane in Traverse City, MI. Part 10248414. This sensor is located pass side of radiator. Only electrical part there.
  • what was the code given that made you change the sensor? I have a 2000, got code PO118
    Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit High Input ,
    but don't know where the sensor is or thermostat? can u help?
  • Hi, my air compressor is squealing like a pig and seems the clutch or the compressor may be bad. Also the a/c light would come on and off on the dash controls. I will take it to a a/c mech, but If I get a new compressor or clutch has anyone changed out the air compressor. Seems confusing, no where to pull it out without taking everything near it apart. If any one out there can help, appreciate it....
  • Thermostat is on the passenger side of the engine. Bottom radiator hose, coolant resevoir and a hose going up to the head is connected to the housing. Housing attaches with 2 bolts with 10MM heads. Easier to take the belt off when removing.

    Not sure about the temp sensor but think it is on the back head drivers side.

    Good Luck!
  • Could just be a loose belt. At any rate DON'T let the AC compressor seize up if you can avoid it. Get this looked at right away. If the compressor seizes tight, you have to pretty much clean and/or replace the whole AC system, as metal debris has contaminated all the components.
  • I just changed my compressor. Have to take the battery out, fan assembly, alternator, thermostat housing and lower radiator hose. Sounds bad but is not that difficult. To get the fan housing out, pop the plastic rivets loose that hold the wiring harness to the radiator support. You can move the harness back and pull the fan shroud between the harness and the radiator. You'll have to change the accumulator and the orifice tube. The accumulator is under the air filter box. The box snaps into a rubber groumet in the fender well. The orifice tube is another matter! Have to remove the anti-lock break servo and the master cylinder. The tube is close to the firewall tucked beside the power brake booster. Some short wrenches work best to unscrew the fitting. Once all the hoses are apart, need to get some A/C system flush (parts store has it) and clean out the system. I rigged up a funnel to pour flush in the coils and blew it out with compressed air. After a few trys, put a paper tower at the outlet when flushing to check for metal shavings. Have to keep flushing until the paper towel is clean. I used a gallon of flush cleaning mine. After I finally got it all back together, I purged some 134 through the system and then pulled a vacuum for about 30 minutes before recharging. Takes three cans to fill the system. You can't believe the tag under the hood as they short changed the system on assembly. There's some other strings talking about that. Good Luck!
  • Thanks for all the details...very helpful...and I hope it works out and all the debris is gone.
  • HOW WAS U ABLE TO PULL OUT THE COMPRESSOR? VERY TIGHT SPOT, AND ONE MECHANIC TOLD ME IT WOULD TAKE ABOUT 5 HOURS FOR EVERYTHING , FROM REMOVING OLD TO PUTING IT BACK TOGETHER AND CHARGING.....HOW MUCH DID UR COMPRESSOR RUN AND WHAT YEAR IS YOUR INTRIGUE? STILL HAVENT FOUND THE WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR, AND HAD SHOP DID IT FOR ME. ONLY PROBLEM NOW IS THAT THEY FINISHED WRECKING THE AC COMPRESSOR BEARING AND NOW I HAVE TO REPLACE THE COMPRESSOR NO MATTER WHAT. dON'T WANT TO FINISH DAMAGING THE ENGINE, SEEMS LIKE BEARING IS SEIZED.
    :sick:
  • top666top666 Posts: 5
    Compressor was about $170 got it from napa, not too bad to change, take out the battery, and the battery holder as it will give you plenty of room to remove it. the compressor itself only took about 1 hour for remova and install, then however long it takes to get it recharged. That was on a '98
  • Suggest for warranty reasons that you buy the compressor, dryer (accumulator), and orifice tube from the same place. Compressor warranty if void if other items aren't replaced and most won't accept the fact you bought them somewhere else. I had problems finding a dryer, even through the GM dealer. Ended up getting the parts from the local AC Delco parts dealer. Cost more but has one year warranty on the Delco compressor. Good Luck!
  • top666top666 Posts: 5
    Got the drier(@ $20) and orifice tube (@ $6) from the local napa as well
  • I have a '99 3.5 L V6 with about 80,000 miles on it. Great car and love it to death, but the the following from an unanswered post by kristend earlier in this thread sums up my issue pretty good:

    "Some days when I start the car, the climate control works fine. Other times, it wil be completely shut off (no lights, no air, no heat, nothin'.)"

    I'll pretty much ditto that. Anyone have any ideas? Most of the time it works, but sometimes (probably about half the time) it doesn't turn on at all. After driving for a little bit, the whole unit, lights, air, and everything else will kick on. Like I say, not an every time issue, but often enough to be annoying. Any help would be greatly apreciated, and feel free to write me at AMCurnes@hotmail.com if you don't feel like posting here. Thanks!
  • Have not heard of this specifically, but it sounda like it is probably the climate control head unit. Is it possible that it is overheating (the unit itself), or that there is a loose connection to the back of the unit, fuse box relay unit or computer. All of this is a guess, but I would take a good look at the wiring, and trace it back. :confuse:
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    I just bought an 01 GLS with 33K!
    The drivers side heated seat is not working. When I press the switch the orange light comes on for about 4 seconds then goes out. It does the same for HI or LOW temperature settings.

    As I was told, air conditioning needs to be charged. Would this affect the heat output? The car has climate control as opposed to traditionally separate buttons for AC and Heat. Warm air was coming out but not warm enough for my ankles.

    The recycle air button keeps switching off and the outside air button switches on. Is this some sort of default? I haven't read the manual yet .

    I bought the car this afternoon. I will be registering it tomorrow. I plan to have the oil and filter changed tomorrow. Any suggestions on what else I should do for it on my first full day of ownership?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Congrats on the Intrigue. I don't have heated seats so I can't comment on that. You may want to check the manual to see if there must be a certain temperature for the seats to operate.

    The AC needing freon should not affect the heat. With the auto climate control, it will not blow out hot air until the car warms up. On cold days, it could take a several minutes to feel warm air. Also the climate control system depends on the outside temperature sensor. In other words, you simply set the temperature you want it and the car dictates where the air is comes from (defrost, below, vents, etc.) based on the outside temperature. This may explain why the recirculate button keeps switching off. Is the outside temperature sensor working properly? If not, it is extremely easy to replace.

    Along with the oil and filter, i would also get the coolant changed since it is over 5 years old. I would also change the transmission fluid.
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    my driver side heated seat indicator goes on for about three seconds (both low and high) and shuts off. The heat doesn't come on.
  • rosscmrosscm Posts: 13
    I drove through some wet slushy conditions last night and the signals stopped working for a bit on both sides. Is there an area along the wire route where I could or should do some water proofing? Is this going to happen alot? I put 185000 miles on my 98 regal and never had an electrical problem.
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