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Cadillac DeVille General Care & Maintenance

A friend recently acquired an 02 DeVille with 35K miles, that is burning a quart of oil approximately every thousand miles. The dealer is telling him this is "normal" for the 4.6 V8 motor. Have others shared this same experience?

Thanks.
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Comments

  • The oil burn is normal on a Northstar V8, only worry if it stops using oil. I am on my second Northstar and love it!!

    AL
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,781
    I have no problem with an engine burning some oil, but I think a 2002 car with 35K miles burning a quart every 1,000 is not good. I think he should have a cylinder leakdown test done to see what his problem is. For the age and mileage my opinion is that, even for a Northstar, this is not normal and may get worse.

    MODERATOR

  • mnjoemnjoe Posts: 36
    Absolutely not!!! I had no oil burn on my 1999 or 2002 Sevilles. Never heard of it anywhere before.
  • I have a 2000 SLS with 65000mi iI bought it new in 2000 .....I have put 3 crankshaft sensors,2 right front motor mounts,one 1st & 2nd gear shifting actavator {it would only go into 3rd & overdive would not downshift into 1st and 2nd } and one air compressor ,also 1qt.of oil every 1000 mi AND THIS IS THE "CADILLIAC" OF THE AMERICAN AUTO MGF. THATS WHY GENARAL MOTORS IS GOING BANKRUPT
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    GM will never go bankrupt bkakwt As far as you say this is"the Cadillac of the American auto mgf", I've owned a Lexus, Infiniti, Audi, and BMW. All were HORRID vehicles in terms of maintenance. My '05 STS V8 AWD has been a gem.
    Only problem thus far I've had was broken HID headlamp. At 26000 miles, I'd take my good 'ol American car any day.
  • The first 35000 mi. were great nothing ever went wrong just general maintenance ever since then it's been one thing after another I know a little about cars I'v restored a 56 T Bird, 54 MGTF, 72 Cutlas Conv. ,59 Chevy Conv., 64 Pontiac GTO ,61Corvett plus 4 motorcycles .I almost forgot my first 49 Plymouth Club Coupe all american except for the MG plus All the autos I drove for everyday and this Cadillac is not a good CAR the bad thing is that Cadillac knows all these problems but just keeps producing them without fixing the problems
  • I am chasing the same issue with my 01 DTS . First the dealership told me that there were carbon deposits in the valve train and it was causing the lifters to stick, so the opened it up and cleaned it out. Not the problem, Car burned 1qt in less than a 1000 mi. and was then starting to tick a little louder. Upon a return to the dealership, it was deemed that the #4 rod and a full set of pistons were in need of replacement, (pistons due to a service bulliten ). now i have had the car back a full day finally when the ignition module died and roadside assistance told me to call back on tuesday, cancelling my labor day plans. My deville is a certified pre-owned and has the warranty to 8-07 or 100,000 mi . these issues have happened 70.000-72,000mi .
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    I too know a little about cars (american) having owned 5 Corvettes (3 of them I still own '99, '04 Z06, and '05 Z51. You mentioned classics that you've restored. I happen to restore cars myself. '62 Eldo, '57 Chevy,'66 Rivera '69 Corvette L88 just to name a few that I still own and are certifiable DAILY DRIVERS-- NO TRAILER QUEENS HERE. The point I am trying to make is that all in all the Caddy is no worse than some other premium makes (ie: Lexus Infiniti And Lincoln all have some sort of oil burning or sludge build-up problem reported) SO don't slam Caddy. I do agree with you that Caddy has to be aware of the problems. BUT I must say that this Northstar motor has been notorious for burning oil and Guzzling Gas since it's inception in 1993. I should know because I had a '93 STS. But my '05 STS V8 does not have the oil burning problem. However, it is still quite thirsty. My point is this: Caddy still makes a world class vehicle. As I've mentioned on my past post, I 'VE DRIVEN THEM ALL!!
  • ssteveksstevek Posts: 45
    My son's '82 Coupe Deville with the (we think 2nd) 4.1 V8 failed the Nox emissions big time. I wonder if this is a fix that can be accomplished with a few hundred dollars. The car has other issues, so I wonder if it would be worth it to invest the money. For some reason it had passed in 2003, the PASS sticker was on the window when he bought it. Our state had no emissions program for awhile, but now it's back in force.
  • I have a 1985 4.1 and it doesn't pass NOx either! They've only been testing for CO and HC and now they're testing for NOx and I believe it's a deception on the part of the EPA! My engine decals and owner's manuals clearly state that my car was meant to meet 1985 FEDERAL emissions specs, NOT California's! They didn't start testing for NOx until 1998 and the reason why they keep adding new gases is so they can "justify" the existence of the emission test! On top of that, they keep reducing the limits allowed. By law, a certain amount of cars must fail to justify this test! So they keep adding gases and reducing limits! And they want you to spend $660 every two years to get a waiver in an attempt to fix a car that has nothing wrong with it and was not designed to meet NOx limits! This is the biggest scam perpetrated upon the American people! Nobody is going to have less asthma attacks because we're conducting emission tests! Soon they will check for CO2! Don't humans exhale CO2? Maybe the increased population is causing global warming, if it really does exist! Maybe we should kill people too now? What a joke! Let's wake up people!
  • My manual does not tell me what I need to have done for 90K service. I fixed the car as needed and chgd. oil every 3000 miles. I've never done a thirty or a sixty thousand mile service so I guess I should do something now that I'm looking at 91450 miles. Don't want to deal with the dealership. When I asked them what was involved in the 90 K service and price they rattled off a list of services to fast to note down. Called back to try again and same thing happened. Even asked them to slow down. They did quote over $900 for the job. Well anyway, I really don't trust them now.

    So here's what I'm planning. New spark plugs (titanium) and wires, tranny flush, radiator flush and the 3K oil change. Should I get a new PCV Valve? Wheel alignment? (there's no shimmy or shake) Les Scwabb says brakes are 50 and 75 %

    Can you think of anything I might be missing. I've not been employed for 2 years now and need to be cost conscience. Thanks for any advice.
  • if you do put new plugs, make sure you use caddy plugs and nothing else...bosch or ngk's or anything other than what the manual calls will cause driveablity problems...the engine is engineered for those plugs and nothing else. personally, if you're not having driveablity issues i wouldn't change them. stay away from "flushing" the transmission...simply have the tranny drained and filled...flushing can cause debris and sediment from the previous customer's flush to be introduced into your transmission. there just isn't much to do on the n/s and transmission...if it ain't broke....jackg 90seville 99k
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    I own a 2004 Deville with 32,000 miles on it. Last oil change was in February and a little over 3000 miles back.
    Oil life indicator shows 75% oil life remaining. 2/3rds
    of driving is highway and 1/3rd city all on paved roads.
    Am strongly considering waiting until 5 months or 50% oil life remaining on gauge. Would be appreciative of having the input of other Deville owners on this issue of oil life gauge and how often you are changing your oil.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A lot of people, some of them with professional knowledge of Cadillacs, say to follow the oil life indicator. Wait until it gets down to 10%, and then change.

    For most of my life I've changed oil, and filter, at 4,000 miles (or every year if I'm driving it less than 4,000/year). I've felt this is a very conservation schedule compared to the 6,000 or 7,500 or even now 10,000 mile schedules recommended by automobile owner manuals.

    And not near the 2,500 or 3,000 miles the dealership service people recommend, which is mainly to move money from your pocket to theirs.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,150
    I also look at my oil color. I drop a couple drops onto a paper towel and look at how the spot spreads through the fibers. When the darker center is dime size, I start getting ready to change oil.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I don't put much weight in color.

    I've used oils that will darken up significantly within one week after a change.

    But I've been running Castrol 5-20 for a couple of years, and that stuff looks almost like water when it goes in, and it darkens up very little, even over a couple thousand miles. By 4,000, it will be somewhat darker, but this stuff has less color change that any oil I've previously used.
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    I have also tended to change at four months and 4000 miles
    but having only driven 3000 miles in the last four months and indicator at 75% think I will wait til five months. Will probably have only driven 4000 miles by that time.
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    Thanks! will experiment with the paper towel and see what happens.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,150
    Bolivar has a point about the color being a subjective measure. I know what the oil looks like at 500 and 1000 miles and then as it changes from this brand's and this motor's characteristic color and starts looking denser and carrying more oxidation and contaminants I judge when to change. I have no problem with running up higher on my 03 leSabre with a digital oil life gauge. In winter I change quicker and if the car's in hot traffic where the car is running hotter due to low air speed under the oil pan and around the motor I change quick, i.e., after summer vacation on expressway snarls around chicago or Philadelphia.
  • I agree that on Cadillacs with an oil life indicator, you should go by the indicator. When you have a sophisticated measure of when the oil needs to be changed, why guess?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,150
    >When you have a sophisticated measure of when the oil needs

    Oils vary, as Bremertong mentioned, and those systems don't adjust for various oils. One example is if you use synthetic there's no adjustment.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    I just change mine every 4000 miles or 4 months at
    the Mr. Goodwrench or Monroe tire center for less
    that $20 bucks (with a lube job) then reset the
    worthless oil monitor gadget and drive happy! :P
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    I think the oil life indicator was meant to measure regular oils and not longer life synthetics but perhaps is good for both. As mentioned in earlier messages I would not let the indicator go much below 50%, 5000 miles or five months whichever comes first before going in for an oil change. I have at this point never used synthetics but am open to the idea. As discussed in previous messages I drive on paved roads, 2/3rds highway and 1/3rd in town with not very much bumper to bumper stop and go. The final significant variable is the climate, very rarely above 65 degrees in summer and only about 30 days of the year that temperature falls below freezing (late night, early morning). Another factor is that the car is parked in an insulated garage.
    Having appreciated the comments received here so far I am moving in the direction of 5 months, 5000 miles and 50% whichever comes first. Further comments welcomed and appreciated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,150
    Bremertong
    The warmed garage also helps on the contaminants left in the oil in cold weather during starting warmups. Our cars are in garage at minimum 40 deg. F. in winter. Usually 50. If your car is treated that way and not started in cold weather with a cold motor regularly (at work to come home) and your summers are rarely above 65, you can make the extra miles and change twice a year very safely. You're the closest to the normal description for ideal service intervals I've read.
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    As I was leaving home today, about one mile out, the check engine coolant message flashed on the message center. I drove about five miles to my first destination and than stopped at a local service station and asked them to check.
    They said was just about full. I have owned the car for two years and this is the first time this has happened. Plan to wait and see if it happens again. Have others had this message when the coolant level was full? If it happens again I will need to have Cadillac dealership check. Could it be a faulty module or some such thing?
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    Thanks very much for your reply. Will try the plan I outlined in earlier posts. Needless to say it was a little
    frustrating to have the coolant issue come up today, guess I have been lucky in that in the five years of ownership of two Devilles this is the first time a check anything message has come on.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    My suggestion is that you have your dealer check to see if your water pump is starting to leak. If it is leaking then perhaps there will be some signs of this where you park overnight.
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    Thanks for your reply. I went out and looked just now, and all looked dry under the car. I have an oil pan under the car with white paper towels lining it to monitor any further oil leaks from oil filter adapter gasket, now repaired.
    There is sometimes water on the tray but have assumed it is condensation from the air conditioning system, it is off to the the side at about where the driver seat is. If the water pump is leaking would water have color to it? if so what color should I look for? Would there be leaking even if the car had not been out for a day? Is there a particular location under the car that a water pump leak
    would appear on the garage floor or tray (2004 Deville)?
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    The water pump is on the drivers side of the engine, on the front bank of cylinders. There is a belt that turns it using the camshaft as a power source.

    If you still have the right coolant, it should be the orange stuff. Your dealer can do a pressure test, which will take some time, to see if the cooling system is leaking. The water pump leakage can be intermittent till it fails and the engine overheats.
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    Had the car out today with several stops for errands and various speeds up to 60 MPH. No more check coolant messages. If the message should occur a second time I will
    schedule a service department visit with a Cadillac dealership. Will probably go to the dealer 60 miles away in that I was more impressed with them than the dealer closer to me. I am scheduled for an oil change in the next two to four weeks and if no further coolant message occurs I will wait and mention at oil change time. So far as I know the coolant is the original that came with the car.
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