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Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues

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  • The rubber seals on the doors have become worn and soft and not holding tight, making the vehicle think the doors are open. I taped shims onto the door frames. (96 g.c. with 256,000.
  • If you look beside your battery, there is a plastic retanglar box with a removeable top cover that pops off, under that cover on the backside of the piece there is a diagram of each fuse and relay listed.

    the starter relay should be on the driver side of relays, beside the a/c relay, it is best to pull it out and use the a/c relay in it's place, same as I had to do to my voyager to check and see if it will start with that relay instead of the original starter relay you currently had there. If it does start then most likely will need a new starter relay, which can be picked up for less than $20 from a parts store. If it still does not start, then it will most likely be something to do with the starter.

    Now I have been viewing some of the earlier posts about bad contacts in the starter, causing problems with the van not wanting to start and sometimes it does, usually mine will not start if it is cold weather, I guess because of the metal shinking or something to that effect, but will definately be checking into new contacts for my starter and i really hope that will fix my not starting issue.
  • I did notice that some have posted about the instrument cluster not working sometimes or even to the effect that it goes haywire.

    I myself had checked out some of the other forums and had come across a topic that showed what exactly is wrong with the instrument clusters and it has to do with the cluster having a certain type of solder used to solder the contact points to the cluster of the positive terminal.

    As the solder ages and heating and cooling of the solder points, can create a crack in the solder and thus cause insufficient voltage or none at all, and in the end result in the cluster not responding correctly or having only half the dash displaying accurate readings.

    if even people ask, i will try to find the original post that I found, but have this in mind when you do that unless you know how to do electronics or soldering, it would be best to take your cluster to a professional electronics person, like a t.v repairman or a computer technician, since they work with soldering often in their line of work.
  • Hi, I'd like to try your shim solution as I have that 'Door Open' warning light problem too.

    But I need to find out exactly where the sensor is located. Is there a drwing or picture somewhere?

    Regards,
  • porcherporcher Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Dodge grand caravan. Remote key, AC, Back Windshield Wiper, Night light are not working. I also have brakes and abs warnings on but nothing wrong with the brakes.
    I replaced the fuse block and still have the exact same problems.

    Any suggestions ?

    Thank you kindly
  • The dash issue is the instrument cluster. there's a circuit board that has soldering points that come undone so to speak. you can replace with a junk yard part. its not that hard. and you will be fine.
  • vrv44vrv44 Posts: 1
    Starter went on a 2004 grand caravan. Has anyone ever heard of a corodded positive cable to the starter frying the wiring harness? Not sure exactly what's going on here, talking to the mechanic tommorow.
  • ljbennettljbennett Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan, and for the first year we had it, it worked beautifully. About 18 months ago it started acting up. The entire cluster freaks out, the air flow stops, the radio shorts out, the headlights flicker continuously, and the warning lights come on and the van makes that 'ding' noise (like when you leave the key in). Sometimes it feels like the engine pulls a bit, not sure how to explain that one.

    We have replaced the BCM, we have replaced the alternator twice, we have replaced the battery twice, and we have replaced the starter once. The van has been to 2 different Dodge dealerships (in 2 different states), 2 run-of-the-mill mechanics, and an electrician. We have sunk a LOT of money into this thing and still have no answers.

    We replaced the battery again in March, and it wasn't driven for 3 days and the brand new battery was dead. The sliding doors don't lock, and they won't open with the key or the buttons, you must open them manually. The back hatch is super finicky on when it will open. Every time we take it to be worked on, it seems to run fine for a few days and then starts freaking out again. When we first had the problems, we took it to a dealership and they could find no problems so the manager said it was probably the BCM. I took his word and replaced that. It ran perfectly fine until the day after the part warranty expired (ain't that the way it always goes?). We were weeks away from a military cross-country move at that point and had to try and figure it out. It somehow fixed itself and we made it from TX to OK just fine. Drove around in OK for a few weeks no problems. Made it from OK to OH just fine and 3 days after we got to OH it started acting up again. The dealership here looked it over, charged us and told us there was nothing they could do since they can't replicate the problem. The electrician had it for almost 2 weeks and couldn't find anything.

    I have no idea what to do...please help!!!!!

    (Here's a link to a video my husband took of it happening while he was driving)
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9gKZBeGZIU&feature=channel_video_title
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    edited July 2011
    If you havn't already; remove battery, unlock side tabs of the power distribution box to flip over to an upside down position. Unlock the reseptacle tabs by sliding red bars and take 2 slotet screwdrivers with bend ends to pry off and remove connectors from the wiring harnesses. Look for corosion and clean connections. Aluminum wire terminals corrode to a greyish scale color. Start with the thickest connector which is the main power in. Scrape all opposite connections clean and pack with (non carbon based) petroleum jelly to prevent moisture contamination. Reconnect all 9 reseptacles and battery. It took me 2 hours to perform this on my 2001 Caravan. My instrument panel and guages returned back to normal. Take your time and be very patient and you should be fine.
  • Ever since the heat wave started on the East coast, my radio will work for a while and then freeze up (the hotter it gets, the sooner it freezes up). None of the buttons work, but the display is still on, just frozen. When I turn off the car, the display stays on instead of shutting down. I have to disconnect the battery to get the radio to shut off to stop it from draining the battery. Yesterday, the radio froze up with out me turning it on for the first time (only the clock was displayed). Any idea what is happening and is there a fuse I can pull to disable the radio without disabling anything else? I looked in the fuse box in the engine bay, but didn't see a fuse for the radio.
  • jlnxxjlnxx Posts: 1
    that sounds like a recalled issue that i had. it was a clock spring in the steering column (abs light with no brake issue is the sign). take it to a dealership and it might be free to fix. the door sensors also dont last long that might be the interior light issue, if it still doesnt work after the other fix.
  • kent75kent75 Posts: 1
    My Grand Caravan turns over just fine but makes no effort to start. Was running with no problems. Driving and all of the sudden would not go over 30 mph then died. Checked fuses for fuel pump and all OK. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • I have had my fuel pump relay go bad as well as many other relays. beside the battery there is a long black box open the cover find the relay( small black box in there) and replace it with another one that sounds unimportant for testing if it starts you need a relay if not???? I have found most of my problems including a fried transmission was bad relays.Good luck
  • Ok I have a 98 voyager and it has a lot of electrical problems but 1 that is bothering me now is after re soldering the cluster my gas gauge seems to be out of adjustment. (low fuel light at 1/2 tank) I filled it and it went well past full and am now going to run it out of fuel to find out where empty is. After the re solder (which fixed the bang the dash thing) it seemed out so I pulled it again to check for shorted solder. I am an electronics tech so I know how to do this properly. I couldn't find anything so.... My question is there some sort of procedure to synchronize the sender and gauge? or is the cluster nfg?

    Ok I have an update today I ran it out of gas it ran out at 3/8 of a tank. So any bright ideas guys? Every time this truck has anything fixed something else changes ( do you wonder why the previous owner and I named it Moaning Myrtle? ( a ghost form Harry Potter) Not to mention adding 500,000 kms on the odometer one nite and the always on cooling fans & always on interior lights etc etc.
    Looks like the dash will come out again to make sure I didn't miss something the first 2 times.
  • When I turn on my cruise control, the instrument cluster quits working. No speedometer or tachometer, no fuel or temp. What is causing this?
  • electricdodgeelectricdodge Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    Just wanting to save everyone the hassle of owning a dodge caravan (grand or other crap).
    We've been having strange electrical issues for the last year or so.
    -headlights randomly shutting off
    -battery constantly dieing no matter how great the brand
    -all lights turn on, dash lights up but no turn over
    -clock and radio randomly resetting itself and all the dials
    -sometimes it starts and other times it wont

    IT IS (and maybe a combo of the two) wire from ignition to fuse box and the fuse box itself.

    The mechanic said that the fuse box sits in a precarious place in these dodge caravans and gets corroded and will make all kinds of weird happenings in the van. They initially thought it was the PCM (computer of the van) but its not.

    Up to this point we had replaced the battery (3 times), starter and paid many other "diagnosis" fees.

    Stop chasing gooses and get those two things replaced! and warrantied!!
  • have you found out what is wrong with the car when the dashboard goes out i have the same thing i have 1997 dodge grandcaravan
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    If you're having dashboard issues, pull the instrument cluster out of the dash and "touch" each solder connection with a hot iron just long enough to liquify the solder around the point. Once compelte, put the dash back in and like as not, your problems will be solved.
  • my wife 96 plymouth grand voyager se is acting real scary the driver side window will wrk sometimes the front ac/ heater blower only wrks on high and sometimes it will come on and go off and not wrk for days now the rear ac/heater will wrk on both sides u cut the van off start it back up and only the right lower vent will wrk can somebody please give some advice im new and hope im posting in the right form its fixing to be winter here in sc and i dont wont the heat to stop wrking while shes taking kids to school or while were out riding with our 6 kids :)
  • See the post directly above yours, #334, for the answer. The solder connectins on the circuit board on the back of the connectors on the instrument clusters are notorious for causing most of the electrical issues in these vans, including no start, die while running, no lights just to name a few. Sometimes a godd sharp smack on the center of the dash directly over the center of the instrument cluster will correct all the problems, but they will always return unless you do that fix.
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