Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues

1235718

Comments

  • The following happened within the course of 24 hours. Maybe related. Maybe not. Someone told me my backup lights came on while I was driving (but we check again and all was OK). Next morning brake message came on. I filled the brake reservoir. When I started the van, the turn signals were not working, the ABS warning light came on, the AC/Heater blower would not go on (AC/Heater blew hot/cold air while in motion - unless I put the recycle button on) The AC on light was lit even if the the fan dial was turned to off (not working in any position). Then the power windows worked sporadically (both sides). I checked the fuses, all seemed to be OK. I do not know about other electrical things (relays, etc). Any ideas?
  • may be a bit late, but I had a problem with an earlier model caravan that had a fuel cutoff relay (under hood near drivers side firewall) that had bad contacts and that caused my hesitation at speed and eventually wouldn't start at all, also look for bad contacts on the high amperage (50 Amps or better) fuses if you have them
  • seatigerseatiger Posts: 9
    Just changed the FAN RELAY module that is located next to the radiator, it stopped working and the fans in my vehicle didn't work, I saw the rising temperature gauge and stopped the vehicle to avoid overheating.

    Then I left it to cool down, and turned on the heating at MAXIMUM SPEED, MAXIMUM HEAT to drive it to the dealer (short 10 mile drive) and bought the US$ 100 module.

    This module is a Solid State Relay (SSR) and retails here for US$ 100, at NAPA it is over $70. It drives 2 fans with a rather high amperage (about 35 amps) so it needs to dissipate a lot of heat, that's why it's installed in the car's frame. However I found out that Chryco did not install any heat transfer material and it can be easily overheated and fail -after all it's a high power semiconductor-.

    I installed the replacement module after applying some thermal grease from the computer world. I used Arctic Silver 5 because of the excellent stability and thermal transfer properties.

    If I buy a newer DC, or T&C I'm pulling the module out and installing the thermal grease!!! The module is kinda expensive! :mad:
  • amys1amys1 Posts: 1
    I have been having trouble with an '03 Chrysler Voyager. After going through a car wash, my interior lights were going on and off when ever the brake was applied. The turn signal would not go on if the brake was applied, but when I took my foot off the brake, the signal would turn on, but if I applied the brake the signal would switch from the right signal to left or vice versa. The rear hatch would automatically open slightly when the car was put into park and my foot would come off the brake, however it would be "stuck" and was unable to be opened, even with the key.

    As time has passed since the car wash, most of the problems seemed to have resolved themselves with the exception of having trouble with the rear hatch. It will not lock or unlock with the button on the key fob, except very intermittently, and the key will not turn in the door lock.

    My mechanic is about to begin to start changing computer modules, but says it is a "guessing game" as to which one could actually be causing the problem.

    Does anyone have any ideas??
  • lenwfnclenwfnc Posts: 1
    I followed your instructions and the flashing wiper problems has been fixed. The only lights that are still flashing are the ac button and the recirculating button. I have a 1996 Dodge Caravan. Does anyone have any instructions on how to turn off those blinking lights.
  • mosandermosander Posts: 2
    My wife's caravan, for all it's age runs like a dream, and she is truly fond of it. This means I am charged with keeping it running at all costs. This leads me to my problem and below is the sequence of events.

    Vehicle refuses to start. Indicator light come on, fuel relay picks up and...nothing, no crank. Battery is charged, starter motor is fine, and solenoid has power. Engine starts and runs just fine when solenoid is crossed.

    On the advice of my local Chrysler dealer, I checked and replaced the column switch package, (T screws, TX screws, several different sizes, OH JOY!!!); the old one was worn, but probably serviceable, no visible broken parts, but I replaced it anyway; no dice.

    Rechecked wiring between ignition and starter, all appears to be in order, no apparent fraying, breakage or signs of shorting.

    This would appear to me, a relative newby with this type of vehicle, to indicate either a blown fusible link, or a problem relay. Any other culprits anyone can think of?

    My question: Where is the fusible link(s) likely to be, and where is the ignition relay located? And once I locate them, now what?

    Any advice gratefully received, and Thank You in advance,

    Mosander
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    We once owned a 91 Caravan that I remember had a similar problem. It turned out to be the neutral-park safety switch. This switch prevents the vehicle from being started in any gear other than park or neutral. When we tried to start nothing would happen. Replaced the switch and it was O.K. Perhaps you have the same problem. Good luck.
  • mosandermosander Posts: 2
    We replaced the neutral-park safety switch in January when it wouldn't start; worked fine until ??? happened. Have put in new starter switch/cleaned relay switch - think middle of 5 is the starter related one (I hope); it worked for about 5 starts and now dead again. Really at a loss as to where to go next -

    Hoping this sounds familiar to someone out there - many thanks -
  • My 1998 dodge grand caravan's a/c, recirculation control switch, intermitten rear wiper switch and rear wiper switch Led lights are flashing after I replaced my battery, it will stop blinking after 20 minutes. I did the diagnostic test and the intermitten rear and rear wiper switch LED lights went away but the a/c and rec control switch lights still flashes. In dodge forum says I have to do the cool down test to make the a/c & rec lights go away, Is it true? Can you tell me how to do the cool down test?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Ummm, look back to message 3.
  • I tried message 3 and it did not worked. I like to know how (step by step) to do the cool down test to get rid of the flashing lights ( a/c, recirculatory control switch). thanks!
  • fredo442fredo442 Posts: 1
    It's the funniest thing. I have an ABS,and Airbag light on my dash. At the same time the air/heater control stop working along with the turning signals. This all showed up at the same time. Checked fuses but this has left me confused. Any Idea? Van is running find otherwise.
    Thankyou!
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Sometimes a weak battery can cause funny electrical problems. Check out your battery. Good luck.
  • dirtmoverdirtmover Posts: 14
    I need something that can look a bit beyond the generic OBDII codes, in particular to retrieve codes from the TCM on my caravan. I have an Innova reader but it only does the generic stuff. Any recommendations?
  • garf16garf16 Posts: 1
    hello my horn does not work on my 2001 caravan and the shop said it was the fuse panel and I needed to replace it. Is there anything else I could do that won't cost so much?
  • I have a '92 Dodge caravan that only works the instruments when the lights are on (parking or headlights). I have tried 3 different instrument clusters (I now have 2 spares) and they all do the same thing. When the lights are off, the 'instrument panel' warning light comes on and the windshield wipers will not work in any of the intermittent positions. I have tried to find the electrical diagram in Chiltons but they only show up to '91 and then from '95 on. As an automotive electrical engineer (GM) I know I could fix this if I had a wiring diagram but one does not seem to be available. HELP !
  • nvdfwnvdfw Posts: 3
    I have a Dodge Caravan SXT 2005 with two power outlets. One at front provides power when switch is ON, while auxiliar (behind second row seat on driver's side) is currently direct from battery after moving 20amp fuse in fuse box.

    We just bought a heater/cooler which requires at least 5amp to work. It has an internal system that alerts you if battery is low (I guess it means not enough power supplied) and cooler will not work.

    1) If car is not running and cooler connected to outlet2, it does not work due low power.
    2) If switch pass back (engine not started but radio working, and cooler connected to outlet1 it works fine.
    3) While engine running and cooler connected to outlet2, it works fine while moving; on IDLE it beeps/alerts specially if A/C running at the same time.

    I went today to AutoZone and guy verified battery and alternator, he said everything is OK.

    Is it possible outlet2 is not giving enough AMP for cooler to work? how could I check that?

    Any ideas or suggestions?
  • pmack1pmack1 Posts: 4
    Is this an electrical or mechanical dash?
  • kellie29kellie29 Posts: 3
    headlights and flashers continually flashing and won't turn off even when the vehicle is off! 2003 Chrysler Voyager. Anyone else experiencing this? How did you fix it?
  • kenzafankenzafan Posts: 3
    I had a similar problem with my 96 Grand Caravan. Replaced the door dome light switch & fixed the problem. It is a small black button on the door post with one screw & 2 plug in wires once the screw is removed & the switch pulled out from the hole where it is mounted........good luck...Ken.
Sign In or Register to comment.