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Dodge Sprinter Starting/Stalling Issues

24

Comments

  • Our dealership told us that if you replace the brake pads, you have to replace the rotors because of sensors. They say they just throw the old ones away but all has to be replaced at the same time.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    An intelligent sounding line of BS is still a line of BS

    The Sensors mount in the back of the pads, not in/on the rotors. An actual explanation of WHY is in order if sensors are somehow related to rotors...

    Yes, I have heard that if you let the pads go too far you might have to replace the sensors. Also constant wet conditions could get to your brake sensors and cause problems.

    KenB :confuse:
  • hi everyone, im the electrician from new york who wrote "i gave up". i was driving my 03 ripoff and in a 8 hour time my front brakes went from fine to complete destruction of both front rotors, the pads,and 1 caliper.what happened to the german engineering i paid for?I thought there was sensors to tell me when my brakes are low.Not to worry my friendly dealer was happy to sell me all the parts i needed for about 700.00 and after driving 10 miles each way i found out the rotors were the wrong ones i am starting to feel that this van has been the worst item i have ever purchased in my life.I dont get it, my van is a 3500 mid size and it is not near its load limit how could the brakes go that fast. thats all for now but i will add recently when im on the highway the engine surges, but thats a story for another day in the near future.I will say one last thing i recently bought a 2002 chevy van with 150k miles as a backup van for when my sprinter dies!
  • hi everyone,I last wrote "i gave up"and "my forehead says sucker"this will be my last post,from february 08 till april18 my sprinter has broken down 6 times,each time it was at the dealer from 2-7 days,twice i picked up my van after hours and it broke down 1-2 miles from the dealership.leaving me stranded 9:00 at night,calling roadside assistance waiting for the tow and having someone pick me up.merrick dodge has gotten to know me so well that they know my phone number and see it come up on there caller i.d.so they dont pick up when i call.When i would call up not 20 seconds later from a different phone they picked up instantly.this is the type of people in their service dept.After picking up my van on another breakdown i noticed my headlights were not working,after investigating and opening the protective cover in the engine bay i found both headlights completely smashed,i guess the certified mechanics were getting fed up with my questioning on why i was having so many problems,it worked out because when i went back, i went to the parts dept asked for two bulbs and told the clerk that keith the service manager was covering them there was no problem they just handed them to me and i walked out.my van has had thousands of dollars of parts changed,it still failed me.I know not all sprinters are like mine but i think i got the worst one ever built and the worst dealer and service.this past monday april 14 it broke down,i had to send home two employees and cancel a 1800 dollar job.they came and towed it back,dodge had it until thursday,i went to pick it up and it broke down 1 mile from the dealer,i called them and they sent two mechanics,they plugged in the scanner and it read out a new problem different from the one that they just fixed for 4 days,i got picked up and left,i went to my local gmc dealer. I am the proud owner of a 2008 gmc 3500 box truck it cost me 35,000.00,they are giving me 17,000.00 for my van,I took it with a smile,Its funny that i cant even pick up my new gmc truck because the sprinter that im using for a trade in is still at the dealer getting fixed.I was at one time so into my sprinter,i was like a salesman, i would push these vans on a lot of people.So here the story ends.I could probably get more than 17,000 for my sprinter it only has 57,000 miles loaded, cruise control,all power, assist computer ,dually,high roof partition, cargo liner,and many more options,im just happy to see her off to some other poor soul. goodbye, lights by jay electric,ny
  • paul_opaul_o Posts: 3
    I suspect a egr valve needs cleaning. where is this located exactly. I would appreciate any advice on where I can get a decent schematic of a 2500 series 2005 sprinter.
  • I have 1 sprinter and 3 gasoline chevy vans...One of my chevy vans has 435,000 miles on it, no engine problems at all!!!! I am a FedEx contractor and that van has had the crap driven out of it everyday since 2001. stop and go, stop and go... I have had it since it was new. The fuel pumps are the only weakness of that body style that will leave you walking. I always replace mine with a new GM before they reach 100k miles. 100k is the life of those pumps. pumps from other part stores are junk. Park the sprinter, buy a new GM fuel pump for your chevy if you are uncertain of the miles, and drive trouble free...
  • mraimmraim Posts: 1
    I have the brake reservoir light on. This only comes on when the brake fluid is low. Well when I did the brakes and toped off the reservoir the light went off. 30, 000 miles later I did another brake job and this time the light stayed on. The sending unit is build into the plastic tank. So I replaced the brake reservoir and the light is still on. Can any body help on this?

    Joe
    :D
  • ovesoves Posts: 3
    If I had as many problems as "jverrelli," I'd have had the van taken back by the dealer as a lemon, not left it on the road to harm someone else. I wonder what the chances are that the mechanics screwed up more than they fixed? Those smashed headlights? hmm...

    Our parts and repairs have come through a Freightliner dealer.

    The EGR valve was replaced at 35,000+, just under the warranty expiration.

    The "loss of power" was clearly due to the fuel filter which I just replaced. I had to drive it for a short while in that condition while finding the filter, directions for replacing it, and something else to drive while hunting. A useful owner's manual would be nice. I've downloaded a free pdf of the Service Manual. That'll do.
    I can say that it started fine throughout and never just quit altogether. That sounds like another issue.

    The passenger side door neither responds to the key signal nor to the lock switch. Since that happened simultaneously and all the other doors work properly, I think it's probably the door's motor that's out. Does that sound logical? Any other ideas?

    Otherwise, the Sprinter is a pleasure to drive and use
  • I have a 2003 sprinter with 150,000 mi It will not start in the mornings without using starting fluid and will run for 2 hours and then suddenly die ( usually under acceleration or on a hill ). It will restart with the starting fluid. I make deliveries for 2 to 4 hours a day and leave the truck running all the time.
    The dealer has replace 1 glow plug and the "module" with no success.
    Anyone have any ideas?
  • Sounds more like it's not getting fuel....have you had them check the fuel filter or fuel pump? When the van dies do you smell fuel? When you first try to start it in the morning, do you have electrical power (dash lights, etc)? We have a 2004 for sale here in Arkansas if you're looking for an upgrade.
  • ranitoranito Posts: 7
    I just bought a used 2003/144WB tall roof with the idea of converting it to a camper.
    Reading your posts I got scared. Did I do the wrong thing?
    The vehicle has some problems. After running for 1/2 hour did not want to start, I
    waited for 20 minutes and it run fine. Looks that this is a common problem.
    I need help/suggestions/opinions on the following:
    1.-I downloaded a manual that has all the DBR III codes but found out the price of
    a DBR III reader, I can not afford it so can someone please advise if a I buy a
    CAN-BUS OBD-II would it read the codes? does it have to be Mercedes or any
    CAN OBD-II? ther are some made in China for $35
    2.-Problem. When I drive at speeds of 40-50-60 MPH runs fine, the transmission
    shifts nicely both manual and auto, but when I go to a STOP and it slows down
    with the engine, not the brake, at 25 MPH a horrible vibration occurs below
    somewhere around the transmission. I looked under and tested the driveshaft
    shaking it Up and Down and sideways, there is a small click around the bearing
    that holds and connects the two shafts. Could this bearing be the problem?
    has someone experiewnced this problem?
    Dear people your response will be greatly apprciated.
  • Hi,I have a 2006 Dodge Sprinter :lemon: and have Stalling issues that has seen the local five star dealers about 6 times(stalled 10 times) and still no cure.This has been ongoing since I had bought it in 2007,it was brand new with 0 miles.In fact,it had Stalled while i was Test driving,but they had told me that it had "stalled" because it was low on diesel.Anyways i contacted an Attorney and are looking for others i can possibly refer to the Attorney for a possible Class Action Lawsuit,because right now,they are trying to settle for a small sum and i'am suppose to keep the lemon van.I figure if i can get at least 20 - 30 People with similar Issues,then we should be able to have a good case.Also,my brakes have been squeeking since purchased.This may be another claim,not sure.Once i get enough people to file with,then will see.Ask anyone with a Sprinter and get the word around,cause together we will have a Loud Bark. :mad: :sick: :lemon:
  • the brake rotors on sprinters are designed to be replaced and are not able to be machined,they only have 3 mm of alowable wear before they are at there min. thickness.crazy germans!the sensors on the brake pads are a simple ground wire that rubs on the rotors and compleats the circut that turns on a warning light,these sensors were redesighned in '04 but they still dont work verry well,they do need to be replaced if the plastic has been worn off because the contact is now exposed and can complete the circut.
  • I have a 2008 Winnebago View RV on a 2007 Sprinter chassis. It would not start on starter battery and also on aux.. Road service could not start with a jump. RV was towed to service center and they say the battery is fine but ignition switch is bad. One person on the View website says it could be the SKREEM Module. Cant find any reference to this number. Anyone have any other clues?
  • DOES THE KEY TURN? 2008 SPRINTERS HAVE AN IGNITION MODULE CALLED A CENTRAL GATEWAY,IF THE KEY TURNS IT SHOULD BE OK,DO YOU HAVE A START ERROR ON THE DASH?MY FIRST THOUGHT IS TO CHECK THE BATTERY DISCONNECT BY THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL(BLACK WIRE WITH A RED END)THESE GET NOCKED OFF ALL THE TIME.
  • A popular problem with a no start, no crank condition is the failure/locking up of your WCM(Wireless Control Module) also refered to as a SKREEM module (Sentry Key Remote Entry Module). ***You may be able to temporarliy unlock/ reset this by disconnecting and reconnecting the negative battery terminal.*** The condition happens in cold/dry weather conditions and has to due with electrostatic discharge from the ignition key to the WCM (see above). This conditioned is corrected by replacing the WCM $800- $1000 parts & labor:(
    This directly ties into the remote keyless entry so use the key only to open and lock the doors. Do not use the key fob.
  • No cold weather here yet since my first 1,000 miles (now at 30,000 3 years later) bought in 2006. Passenger 2500 extended cab high roof. Rear a/c Kills the engine. It only does it when it's hot out and after approximately 10 miles or so down the road but dependably does it each time the rear blower is utilized yet the dealer can't duplicate it. It's been in the shop half a dozen times now for the same problem and has had some minor issues (window regulator, etc). They topped off the frion changed the oxygen sensor, of course the basic maintenance fuel, air, etc. Went in the shop again for two days this time and the $117 oil change resulted in my not having one (they forgot to replace the oil cap so it all blew out). $800 a month for 7 years, I would have hoped to have not been in the shop so much. Almost out of warranty now and don't know what to do about this a/c issue. There is no hesitation, warning lights, nothing. If the rear blower is on, only when it's hot outside, as I come to a stop or slow down, it simply shuts itself off. The engine acts like it's getting a computer generated message and simply shuts off. It starts without a problem but I'm hauling kids and it has to be in park (last two times was in the middle of the highway) with all things off to start again. I would be very grateful please if anyone knows of others with this issue.
  • I have a 2004 5 cyl 2500 Sprinter. I was driving today in cruise control at 65 mph and the engine died, dash lit up, seat belt sign went on etc. I hit the fuel pedal a couple of times, and the engine started up again. The weather was sunny and dry, about 58 degrees. This stall also happened in the rain, and I sat by the side of the road for almost 20 minutes, and it started up again.

    Could it be the cruise control ?
  • kathyr1kathyr1 Posts: 1
    HI MY NAME IS DAVID AND I HAVE A 2005 SPRINTER,I SAW YOUR POST FOR THE FIRST TIME TODAY AND WANTED TO KNOW IF YOU GOT ANYWHERE WITH YOUR LAWSUIT..I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS OUT OF MY SPRINTER NOT THE EXACT PROBLEMS YOU ARE HAVING BUT A LOT..ITS RIDICULUS..I HAVE A DELIVERY SERVICE AND TALK TO A LOT OF OTHER SPRINTER OWNERS WHO HAVE PROBLEMS TOO.ITS A SHAME THAT THEY COST SO MUCH AND THE QUALITY SUCKS..YOU CAN E-MAIL ME IF YOU LIKE AT b4udiereply@yahoo.com IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW ABOUT YOUR LAWSUIT. THANKS DAVE
  • rtl1rtl1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Sprinter as well, used for deliveries in our business. I also have 3 Ford E150s for comparison. The Sprinter has ~110K miles...would have more if it didn't spend SO much time in the repair shop. I must say that there isn't anything about this truck that we haven't had problems with...paint, sliding door, transmission, brakes, engine. In the last month we spent $2500 on a new blower motor for the A/C, a belt tensioner, and an EGR valve (today for $1040). This is THE most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned. I can only say that I hope they fired the engineering team. (Dave, I'll send you a note separately to compare notes)
  • Hi, Im a fleet mechanic and some of my trucks are 05 sprinters w/2.7l 5 cyl engines. I had one overheat from a broken fan belt and they drove it back to the shop about 20 miles. Din't seam to hurt anything, replaced belt and idler pulley and topped off coolant, ran fine. about a month later (10,000 miles) the driver started complaining about black smoke coming from tail pipe mostly on take offs. Fuel pressure is normal, injector pulse is normal, no restrictions in intake assy. O2 sensor has been changed. I don't no if its related to overheating or not. Any ideas?
  • Have any of you tried Slick 50? Works wonders on gas engines. Just a thought.
  • Have you resolved your problem Floridadream? I have the exact same problem and my dealer finally came up with a solution. Have your dealer take a look at service bulletin # 24-001-09. It addresses idle instability and installs a rear A/C cutout module. My Sprinter is out of warranty but they covered it. I would think that your dealer would do the same for you seeing how you have had it into the shop for this problem during the warranty period. This bulletin only applies to 2003-2006 Sprinters with factory roof air.
  • Your Sprinter Tech is incorrect. There are two watch type batteries inside your key fob. Your key is not communicating with the SKREEM module. You will not be able to fix this without taking it to the Dealer so they can reprogram your key to the module or you may have a defective module. Check the batteries first.
  • If you have hard start, no start, lots of smoke try this:

    1. Remove the plastic injector cover (aka valve cover)

    2. Remove the clip at the top of each injector. Use a hook pick and just pull the clip sideways. Remove the fuel injector return lines from the top of each injector.

    3. Take a small vice grip and squeeze this line closed at the rear of the engine head or just behind the number five injector fitting. You are just keeping fuel from coming out of this line while cranking.

    4. Buy a couple feet of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing at Ace hardware. Cut yourself five 4" pieces of this tubing. Now your going to install the tubing onto the top of each injector, the tube will fit nice and snug around each injector top where you removed the return lines. Now you should have five clear pipes sticking up off your injectors. These will be like beakers that capture bypassed fuel that is forced through the injector during cranking.

    5. Disconnect the cam sensor near the number five injector, this will keep the engine from starting.

    6. Crank the engine for about 30 seconds non stop. Take a look at your injector tubes. You should not have more than about a 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel in those tubes, if you have an 1" or more or more fuel in one tube than another you have a bad injector or a whole set of bad injectors. Lets not be super picky here an 1/8" difference is not an issue between injectors. Im talking an inch in one injector and a 1/4" in another.

    Roy
  • I recently bought a load of bad fuel. Sprinter 2500 TDI started stalling at stops. eventually it would die on pulling up an incline. I had noticed the fuel pump in the tank being louder than usual. This problem would stop the engine the lights and gauges stayed on but no engine. After a week in the dealership they had changed the fuel rail dropped the tank and cleaned it swapped the tank pump the engine harness the module and finally they replaced the injectors although the engine seemed to run smoothly. Apparently the injector screens had become blocked enough to not allow full acceleration or a hard pull after the engine had warmed up! Hope this helps someone! :)
  • tintenttintent Posts: 1
    I've searched this board, to no avail and was wondering if anyone has the solution. The van has left me stranded and needed to be towed to a dealer three times in the last month. The van cranks, but does not start. It it then towed (on Dodge's dime), to the local Sprinter dealer (between 125-250 miles from where it wouldn't start). The first dealer said it was a faulty fuel pump and replaced it under warranty. The next time it happed it was towed to a different dealer and it started for them upon arrival. They kept it four days and couldn't replicate, so they said they couldn't fix. The last time (two days ago), it was towed to yet another dealer (Las Vegas), as we were on a trip, and the same thing. It wouldn't start when the tow truck arrived, nor when it was dropped off at the dealer, but the next morning it did start when the service tech went to trouble shoot it. They said the same thing as the Phoenix shop. Any ideas out there as to what is causing this? The van is a 2007 with ~16k miles on the odometer.

    Thanks a bunch in advance!!!!
  • I had this same problem with my 03 3500 sprinter with 145,000 miles. I changed the fuel filter and that fixed it. Your problem my not be that simple but it worked for me.
    Jim B.
  • Thanks. No the problem isn't resolved. I'm over the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty (have 40,000) and the rear A/C stopped squealing but it only blows very hot air and I learned not to use it. Today I'm doing an oil change and noticed the second belt is gone so I'm hoping and assuming that belt may have been part of the problem Dodge couldn't find all along. Looking for a diagram now for the tension.
  • 2006 Sprinter posted before same issue. Kills over since the day I bought it brand new they couldn't find the problem. Almost always associated with the rear A/C running on mine, it has to be in park to start again so coasting off the interstate onto the highway with the rear A/C on is a dangerous move.
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