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Mazda MPV Electrical System/Lights

2

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  • My Mazda is idleing very high when started. RPM is up to 1.5 and will not idle down at all. Did anyone have this proble before?
  • I see some of the above commentary and wonder if these problems with this model is what is causing the same thing in a friend's MPV. She is a great lady from our church who has had to replace at least 3 coil packs recently. She just spent over $700 in the last month alone on what I believe to be electrical issues. She was on her way to her mother's home in North Carolina for Thanksgiving when the van just started going haywire. The engine light came on and a 3 hour trip took nearly 5 hours because she said she lost power and when she gave it gas it felt like it was going to shut down on her. She finally got there and took it to a garage where they did 3 or 4 hundred bucks work of whatever(I didn't see her bills from either garage, the one before and this one, so I don't really know ALL they did) Well, I think she said it was another coil pack, #5 this time. Now that was a little over a week ago, and she called me this morning and told me that the trouble has returned exactly the same way as she was taking her young son to an appointment. I have an OBD2 scanner and offered to scan the computer for her and go from there. This thing sound nightmarish to me! Why does this van seem to have a lot of trouble with coil packs? Seems to me there has to be an underlying electrical issue at play here. I asked her to call a friend of mine in the service dept. of our local Mazda dealership and see if there were any service bulletins issues about this problem. If anyone can steer me in the right direction here, I'd deeply appreciate it, and I hope you all have a joyous Holiday Season!!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    The 2004 MPV doesn't have coil packs. They have individual coils for each spark plug. The #5 is in the front and should have been very easy to replace... 5 minutes. The 1-3 coils are on the back of engine and require an hour and a half of labor. The coils are problematic, and as such I wouldhave your friend ask Mazda replacement under "goodwill". A poor design allows water to foul the coil. I had a coil go bad after running through a large water puddle during a downpour. Even though I was 4 k miles out of warranty, Mazda replaced under goodwill. You might also want to check the PCV hose, as there has been widespread problems with it as well... similar symptoms. I read a step by step "how to do a full coil replacement" on the MPVclub web site, if you're fairly handy it is something you could do and save your friend some big money.
  • Thanks, jipster, for your comment.I will add that to my list of things to look for if I ever get to our friends house to look at her MPV. It's cold here in Pa now, and my back has been bothering me to the point where it's been difficult to solve MY OWN vehicle issues. I also learned from another blogger that his Idle Air Solenoid got carboned up and after he cleaned it and the throttle body as well, his MPV ran a lot better. Thanks for the heads-up about the PCV, I'll check that too. She is fortunate she has another vehicle to drive, but she wants to take her van down to NC for Christmas. Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this soon. P.S. Can you give me info for that Mazda MPV website on how to do those coil repairs? Thanks!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    There are many "do it yourself" posts at MPVclub.com. How to replace the coils has a pretty cool step by step instructional complete with photos... it is under the "Problems" forum. There is also more info on how to replace a PCV hose.
  • Hi, Jipster. I did have an opportunity to use my OBD2 on our friend's 04' MPV. I got a code PO303, which translated into a #3 cylinder misfire that no doubt means that her #3 coil has shorted out, causing her problem. She clarified for me that the last one she had replaced(only about 3 weeks ago now) was the #5 coil. So now in the last 2 months, she's replace her #1, #5, and now needs the #3 if she wants to get this thing running which, by the way, it a nice looking vehicle. I didn't look at the odometer to see how many miles is on it. She told me she had that PCV hose replaced a while ago, and I told her about another readers de-carbonizing proceedure involving the IAC on top of the throttle body and how using Gumout he was able to get his to work better. She is going to put her van in a shop this week as she wants to take it to NC over Christmas. So hopefully this issue will get corrected, but I told her husband that I'd think twice before buying one of these vehicles, given what I've read here on these blogs about it. Sounds to me that some engineer at Mazda was asleep at the design table when this model was conceived!
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    MAZDA 2002, 80K,Japanees esembled; engine light problem one year ago made me to, change all coils, all spark plugs.Now Light comes back for misfire #4 cylinder, also sometimes code says O2 sensor close by catalytic converter bad. I have used fuel injector cleaner few times but light comes back off and on. My question is how to locate cylinder #'s and what should I try now?
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    edited March 2010
    Cylinders are: (back of engine towards driver)

    #1 #2 #3
    Then the next 3, which are easy to get to, are in the front towards the radiator.
    #4 #5 #6

    May check the coil and plug in cylinder 4 since it's easy to get to ( a couple of bolts), though I can of doubt it would go bad so early. Throttle body may need direct contact cleaning.
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    Thank you jipster,

    I replaced the new #4coil which I put and swaped with the old one for checking that I had last year. I drove the van and light came back again. I also checked the #4plug which by looking at it just burning fuel right like the other cylinders(no carbon on it, same gap, no debbrie). I use one fuel injector cleaner once a month(Lucas) since this problem. I changed my air filter last year and cleaned throtle body last year. After all this supported information what would be your suggestion?
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    I am just a owner of 2002 mpv and having similar problems off and on and look like is a pain to me because I very sensitive about cars. Anyhow to give you some ides that the O2 cost about $200 a piece at Auto Advance and there are three sensors. It will cost you abut $150 (not dealer price) labor cost.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    what would be your suggestion?

    I get a lot of my informtion from the mpvclub.com.
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    I have got the code for the check engine light. It is P0103 = MAF OR VAF High Input , P0031 = HO2S Bank 1 Circuit 1 and OBD 11.
    These are the codes. I have just now changed my #4 cylinder new plug and new coil. I have also used a whole bottle of Mass air Flow cleaner, through air filter, in running engine condition, but the dilemma is still there. Earlier it was flashing but now it is still.
    Please need expert advise.
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    Dear fellows,

    I have a quick question. I have MAZDA MPV 2002 with 83K on it and I need service plan on it. I never had warranty on it and the van is in excelent shape for last five years and I want to keep it but I need protection for unforseen expenses. Do you know any company or dealer who offers service or maintenace plan for it.

    I will be looking for your response.

    Thanks,
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    I have MAZDA MPV 2002 LX and engine light is keep coming back on for misfire on Cylinder #4. Recently I have changed all plugs and all new ignition coils. I had also used Lucas brand concentrated Fuel Injector cleaner few times. Any more idea anybody has.
    Thank you much.
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    I have a code P0304 keep coming back, on MPV 2002 85K.
    I replaced the new #4coil which I put and swaped with the old one for checking purpose that I had last year. I drove the van and light came back again. I also checked the #4plug which by looking at it just burning fuel right like the other cylinders(no carbon on it, same gap, no debris), I put new one anyway. I use one fuel injector cleaner once a month(Lucas) since this problem. I changed my air filter last year and cleaned throtle body last month. I have just changed O2 Bank 1 Circuit 1. I have thoroughly cleaned the coil conductor and rubber for #4 for moister, in case if there is any. After all this supported information what would beyour suggestion?
  • I have a 2004 Mazda MPV V6 and it has just died. It's been having some issues with the duel fans on the radiator running for 10 minutes or so after turning the car off. The A/C would also quit blowing cold when it was running at idle (ie. stop lights or slow traffic). Now it has no power to anything, I mean NOTHING and there is a relay that is clicking under the hood. I have pulled the relay and got a replacement from the dealer and it is doing the exact same thing. Is there anyone that has had this issue with their MPV and what did it take to fix it. I have four kids and no transportation for them.
  • freewaysfreeways Posts: 1
    Hello,
    Can anyone help point me in the right direction? My 2003 MPV shut off while driving the highway. It wouldn't start, and when you turn the ignition key on the horn and flashers come on, (I did not even install an anti theft alarm). I found that the engine fuse blows as soon as you turn the ignition on as well. It will not make a connection to a code reader (probably because of the blown fuse). Also I have been reading about the immobilizer, can anyone tell me where to find that. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
  • bklockhartbklockhart Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    Just had this start happening recently on '94 MPV, 3.0L with about 211,000 miles. Figure it's an electrical system problem probably with faulty older wiring somewhere in the system. I'm not a mechanic and just hoping for some advice before I go talk to one. Also have the engine light coming on. Manual states it's one of two things. 1) Scheduled maintenance for emission control system every 80,000 miles or 2) Engine electrical system malfunction. I'm betting heavily on the latter and guessing it might be related to the lights coming on for no reason. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Brian
  • It is the fan control module. Cheap part. Replaced on my 05 and haven't had any issues since...

    http://mazdaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7959
  • Hello Everyone;

    This is a great forum and I have been able to get very valuable tips on our Mazda 2003 MPV in the past. Now we have a weird problem:

    Whenever the parking break is engaged, the "parking break" sign lights up on the dashboard. In addition, the "door open" sign also lights up on the dashboard and all the interior lights are on (even with all the doors closed!!). When the parking break is disengaged, the "parking break" and the "door open" signs go off in the dashboard and the interior light turn off as well.

    Looks like there is a short somewhere in the system. Can someone please help me about the possible causes?

    Thanks,

    Sri.
  • There was also a recall on that module. I had to have the one in my '03 replaced; check with your dealership to see if your vehicle fell under the recall. Issue was that the fan would either Not run ever causing serious overheating issues OR would run constantly even after the car was turned off thereby running down your battery.
  • brown26brown26 Posts: 2
    I got 13 yrs from a ford , 14 yrs from a nissan and only 8 from the mazda, very upset over the cost of repairs I have spent over 4,000 in last two years constant engine light coming on constant misfire problems now I am told I am looking at another 4,000 repair never again I would like to see a car company take some responsibility there is something wrong the design of this van
  • I have exactly same issues as yours, I currently remove bulbs of door light.
    Mechanics spent 1 hour and can not figure out what's wrong. Did you fix yours problems?
  • sramamur1sramamur1 Posts: 21
    For us it happens only when it is wet (rain/snow). Apparently the problem is an electrical short somewhere under the chassis near the parking brake area. The tech told me that it will be time consuming to rip it apart and fix the problem. Hence we have decided not to engage the parking brake while parked.
  • Thanks, I am doing the same thing for almost 1 month: not use hand brake, it seams going to stay that way forever. I did remove the seats and carpet to check if any water accumulated around hand brake area. But everything looks fine. If like you said under the chassis, I may have to dig deeper on that.
    My van was sitting outside garage in 3 days rain, then it happened. So must be shortcut. Another issue is driver side sliding door remote control not working, but manual power door works fine. The day head light flashing sometimes. The Tech said Ford and Mazda has similar issue due to some electrical module failed. I am not sure about that.
  • rollingrolling Posts: 5
    edited June 2011
    While travelling a year ago, my 2003 MP3 had a one-time cylinder misfire. I had the code checked at the time, but the problem did not recur for a year and thousands of miles.

    A few days ago, also while I am travelling, the MPV had a cylinder #5 misfire CEL, this time repeatedly and with loss of power. We had the #5 coil replaced, as well as all the spark plugs. Driving the van back home (10 miles) was fine. The next morning within a mile of starting the van, the CEL is on again and the van is losing power. I haven't had the codes checked again yet.

    Can anyone comment on the claim by 'buzzk' that the factory coils have a vent which permits water to short the plugs?
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1025bf/54#MSG54

    This explanation would account for the fact that our failures have occurred while travelling and on holidays (when our car is not stored in a garage) and after rainfalls and in the morning. Others have also observed these things. Thus, I am convinced that moisture is the problem, though I am not sure what part of the vehicle is at fault.

    I have already paid to have one coil replaced and fear repeating the same exercise endlessly. I am away from home and cannot do the repairs myself. My questions are
    1) For those who have gone ahead and replaced all 6 of the original factory coils, has the problem been solved?
    2) How can I identify which coils to buy to avoid this moisture problem?

    A hearty thanks to anyone who can help!

    Update
    Yesterday morning, I couldn't touch the accelerator without the check-engine light flashing (with loss of power and rough riding). Today, I waited until 4pm when it was over 90 degrees outside. I let the MPV warm up for 5 minutes, and then I drove it around and couldn't make the check engine light flash once. It does look like something is getting wet.
  • buzzkbuzzk Posts: 15
    I’m ‘buzzk’ & the vent in the OEM [jargon: “original equipment manufacturer”] coil design
    most assuredly IS there. I dug out one of the factory OEM coils that I replaced, several years ago,
    with after-market units. I am looking at it as I type. The vent is about 21 mm long & is
    rectangular in cross-section, loosely about a little over 3 by 1 mm, on the inside. However, at the
    top, which is outside & exposed to atmospheric conditions under the hood, it only has a small
    opening you could easily miss. It’s round & easily allows passage though of an acoustic guitar
    wrapped 4th string - about 32 to 36 thousandths of an inch. Not big, but HUGE where water vapor
    molecules are concerned. Until we fixed this, driving in, or just after, a heavy rain could be quite
    exciting. Some wag said [I thought somewhat dismissively], that the vent is “one-way.” The
    vents in the coil units that came from the factory on OUR 2004 MPV are most assuredly NOT
    “one-way.”

    Re piece-meal repairs [one coil at a time]: I doubt seriously that it’s good practice. In fact I
    wonder about repair dishonesty. In my partly mis-spent youth I worked in the shop for a
    Motorcycle & used-car dealer. If I did such a half-baked repair the owner of the shop would
    probably not have been happy. The usual better practice would be to replace the whole set, but....
    If everybody’s replacing these with OEM parts, AND if the OEM design has not been modified
    to fix the problem, [or they’re using up old stock before buying an improved design] you gain
    little & will be back reliably for more repairs [& it’ll cost a bundle; the whole set of after-market
    coils I got from ebay were apparently less than what our dealer wanted for ONE OEM coil]. I can
    understand the dealer could well feel pressure to use only “genuine” factory parts, but a savvy
    independent should do better.

    You need a coil that has NO vent whatsoever and seals the spark-well effectively & reliably. I’ve
    worked with many similar spark-well designs over the years & never encountered something like
    this. It really takes the cake

    Cheers, BK
  • rollingrolling Posts: 5
    Thanks BK.
    Yesterday, we were able to drive the MPV 3 hours in the hot afternoon without a problem. Today the misfiring recommenced immediately upon starting. We got the codes checked and now it's cylinder #4 misfiring.

    I've ordered a set of coils and plan to replace them all myself or pay to have a mechanic do it. Any idea if these have the venting defect?
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PV0XRM
    I figured I'd see when they arrived; the cost savings is so great it's worth a try.
  • buzzkbuzzk Posts: 15
    that's about what I paid for them on ebay & they're the same color as my non-eom ["aftermarket"] replacements. but.. if the picture is accurate, they are the same shape as the factory vented coils & I can't tell from the picture if they also have the vent. the eom part sits flat on the rim at the top of the spark-plug-well - this picture looks the same. over many years of working with otherwise similar designs they always fitted over & around the raised lip like a fitted cup and NEVER had a vent. My aftermarket coils from ebay also fit like that [likely makes a lot better seal] AND have no vent.

    I'm just a guy whose been around the block a few times, used to be a well-trained Navy tech, did some mechanic work [still work on my own], etc, but this vent business seems just plain whacky to me..

    Good Luck & let us know for sure, OK?

    BK
  • rollingrolling Posts: 5
    Hey BK, I haven't got the new coils yet, but I found the small, round external vent in an original ignition coil in my 2003 MPV. I swapped two of the coils (one of which had been throwing a CEL misfire) and drove around a bit. Everything is perfectly dry at present. Once again after one mile of driving, regular throbbing misfires commenced. (No CEL again yet.) In Drive at a complete stop, the throb occurred about every second. I parked the car and it sounds a bit like hissing. I think our problems are caused by a vacuum hose.
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