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Mazda MPV Electrical System/Lights



  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    what would be your suggestion?

    I get a lot of my informtion from the
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    I have got the code for the check engine light. It is P0103 = MAF OR VAF High Input , P0031 = HO2S Bank 1 Circuit 1 and OBD 11.
    These are the codes. I have just now changed my #4 cylinder new plug and new coil. I have also used a whole bottle of Mass air Flow cleaner, through air filter, in running engine condition, but the dilemma is still there. Earlier it was flashing but now it is still.
    Please need expert advise.
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    Dear fellows,

    I have a quick question. I have MAZDA MPV 2002 with 83K on it and I need service plan on it. I never had warranty on it and the van is in excelent shape for last five years and I want to keep it but I need protection for unforseen expenses. Do you know any company or dealer who offers service or maintenace plan for it.

    I will be looking for your response.

  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    I have MAZDA MPV 2002 LX and engine light is keep coming back on for misfire on Cylinder #4. Recently I have changed all plugs and all new ignition coils. I had also used Lucas brand concentrated Fuel Injector cleaner few times. Any more idea anybody has.
    Thank you much.
  • shahidcshahidc Posts: 7
    I have a code P0304 keep coming back, on MPV 2002 85K.
    I replaced the new #4coil which I put and swaped with the old one for checking purpose that I had last year. I drove the van and light came back again. I also checked the #4plug which by looking at it just burning fuel right like the other cylinders(no carbon on it, same gap, no debris), I put new one anyway. I use one fuel injector cleaner once a month(Lucas) since this problem. I changed my air filter last year and cleaned throtle body last month. I have just changed O2 Bank 1 Circuit 1. I have thoroughly cleaned the coil conductor and rubber for #4 for moister, in case if there is any. After all this supported information what would beyour suggestion?
  • I have a 2004 Mazda MPV V6 and it has just died. It's been having some issues with the duel fans on the radiator running for 10 minutes or so after turning the car off. The A/C would also quit blowing cold when it was running at idle (ie. stop lights or slow traffic). Now it has no power to anything, I mean NOTHING and there is a relay that is clicking under the hood. I have pulled the relay and got a replacement from the dealer and it is doing the exact same thing. Is there anyone that has had this issue with their MPV and what did it take to fix it. I have four kids and no transportation for them.
  • freewaysfreeways Posts: 1
    Can anyone help point me in the right direction? My 2003 MPV shut off while driving the highway. It wouldn't start, and when you turn the ignition key on the horn and flashers come on, (I did not even install an anti theft alarm). I found that the engine fuse blows as soon as you turn the ignition on as well. It will not make a connection to a code reader (probably because of the blown fuse). Also I have been reading about the immobilizer, can anyone tell me where to find that. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
  • bklockhartbklockhart Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    Just had this start happening recently on '94 MPV, 3.0L with about 211,000 miles. Figure it's an electrical system problem probably with faulty older wiring somewhere in the system. I'm not a mechanic and just hoping for some advice before I go talk to one. Also have the engine light coming on. Manual states it's one of two things. 1) Scheduled maintenance for emission control system every 80,000 miles or 2) Engine electrical system malfunction. I'm betting heavily on the latter and guessing it might be related to the lights coming on for no reason. Any advice would be appreciated.

  • It is the fan control module. Cheap part. Replaced on my 05 and haven't had any issues since...
  • Hello Everyone;

    This is a great forum and I have been able to get very valuable tips on our Mazda 2003 MPV in the past. Now we have a weird problem:

    Whenever the parking break is engaged, the "parking break" sign lights up on the dashboard. In addition, the "door open" sign also lights up on the dashboard and all the interior lights are on (even with all the doors closed!!). When the parking break is disengaged, the "parking break" and the "door open" signs go off in the dashboard and the interior light turn off as well.

    Looks like there is a short somewhere in the system. Can someone please help me about the possible causes?


  • There was also a recall on that module. I had to have the one in my '03 replaced; check with your dealership to see if your vehicle fell under the recall. Issue was that the fan would either Not run ever causing serious overheating issues OR would run constantly even after the car was turned off thereby running down your battery.
  • brown26brown26 Posts: 2
    I got 13 yrs from a ford , 14 yrs from a nissan and only 8 from the mazda, very upset over the cost of repairs I have spent over 4,000 in last two years constant engine light coming on constant misfire problems now I am told I am looking at another 4,000 repair never again I would like to see a car company take some responsibility there is something wrong the design of this van
  • I have exactly same issues as yours, I currently remove bulbs of door light.
    Mechanics spent 1 hour and can not figure out what's wrong. Did you fix yours problems?
  • sramamur1sramamur1 Posts: 21
    For us it happens only when it is wet (rain/snow). Apparently the problem is an electrical short somewhere under the chassis near the parking brake area. The tech told me that it will be time consuming to rip it apart and fix the problem. Hence we have decided not to engage the parking brake while parked.
  • Thanks, I am doing the same thing for almost 1 month: not use hand brake, it seams going to stay that way forever. I did remove the seats and carpet to check if any water accumulated around hand brake area. But everything looks fine. If like you said under the chassis, I may have to dig deeper on that.
    My van was sitting outside garage in 3 days rain, then it happened. So must be shortcut. Another issue is driver side sliding door remote control not working, but manual power door works fine. The day head light flashing sometimes. The Tech said Ford and Mazda has similar issue due to some electrical module failed. I am not sure about that.
  • rollingrolling Posts: 5
    edited June 2011
    While travelling a year ago, my 2003 MP3 had a one-time cylinder misfire. I had the code checked at the time, but the problem did not recur for a year and thousands of miles.

    A few days ago, also while I am travelling, the MPV had a cylinder #5 misfire CEL, this time repeatedly and with loss of power. We had the #5 coil replaced, as well as all the spark plugs. Driving the van back home (10 miles) was fine. The next morning within a mile of starting the van, the CEL is on again and the van is losing power. I haven't had the codes checked again yet.

    Can anyone comment on the claim by 'buzzk' that the factory coils have a vent which permits water to short the plugs?

    This explanation would account for the fact that our failures have occurred while travelling and on holidays (when our car is not stored in a garage) and after rainfalls and in the morning. Others have also observed these things. Thus, I am convinced that moisture is the problem, though I am not sure what part of the vehicle is at fault.

    I have already paid to have one coil replaced and fear repeating the same exercise endlessly. I am away from home and cannot do the repairs myself. My questions are
    1) For those who have gone ahead and replaced all 6 of the original factory coils, has the problem been solved?
    2) How can I identify which coils to buy to avoid this moisture problem?

    A hearty thanks to anyone who can help!

    Yesterday morning, I couldn't touch the accelerator without the check-engine light flashing (with loss of power and rough riding). Today, I waited until 4pm when it was over 90 degrees outside. I let the MPV warm up for 5 minutes, and then I drove it around and couldn't make the check engine light flash once. It does look like something is getting wet.
  • buzzkbuzzk Posts: 15
    I’m ‘buzzk’ & the vent in the OEM [jargon: “original equipment manufacturer”] coil design
    most assuredly IS there. I dug out one of the factory OEM coils that I replaced, several years ago,
    with after-market units. I am looking at it as I type. The vent is about 21 mm long & is
    rectangular in cross-section, loosely about a little over 3 by 1 mm, on the inside. However, at the
    top, which is outside & exposed to atmospheric conditions under the hood, it only has a small
    opening you could easily miss. It’s round & easily allows passage though of an acoustic guitar
    wrapped 4th string - about 32 to 36 thousandths of an inch. Not big, but HUGE where water vapor
    molecules are concerned. Until we fixed this, driving in, or just after, a heavy rain could be quite
    exciting. Some wag said [I thought somewhat dismissively], that the vent is “one-way.” The
    vents in the coil units that came from the factory on OUR 2004 MPV are most assuredly NOT

    Re piece-meal repairs [one coil at a time]: I doubt seriously that it’s good practice. In fact I
    wonder about repair dishonesty. In my partly mis-spent youth I worked in the shop for a
    Motorcycle & used-car dealer. If I did such a half-baked repair the owner of the shop would
    probably not have been happy. The usual better practice would be to replace the whole set, but....
    If everybody’s replacing these with OEM parts, AND if the OEM design has not been modified
    to fix the problem, [or they’re using up old stock before buying an improved design] you gain
    little & will be back reliably for more repairs [& it’ll cost a bundle; the whole set of after-market
    coils I got from ebay were apparently less than what our dealer wanted for ONE OEM coil]. I can
    understand the dealer could well feel pressure to use only “genuine” factory parts, but a savvy
    independent should do better.

    You need a coil that has NO vent whatsoever and seals the spark-well effectively & reliably. I’ve
    worked with many similar spark-well designs over the years & never encountered something like
    this. It really takes the cake

    Cheers, BK
  • rollingrolling Posts: 5
    Thanks BK.
    Yesterday, we were able to drive the MPV 3 hours in the hot afternoon without a problem. Today the misfiring recommenced immediately upon starting. We got the codes checked and now it's cylinder #4 misfiring.

    I've ordered a set of coils and plan to replace them all myself or pay to have a mechanic do it. Any idea if these have the venting defect?
    I figured I'd see when they arrived; the cost savings is so great it's worth a try.
  • buzzkbuzzk Posts: 15
    that's about what I paid for them on ebay & they're the same color as my non-eom ["aftermarket"] replacements. but.. if the picture is accurate, they are the same shape as the factory vented coils & I can't tell from the picture if they also have the vent. the eom part sits flat on the rim at the top of the spark-plug-well - this picture looks the same. over many years of working with otherwise similar designs they always fitted over & around the raised lip like a fitted cup and NEVER had a vent. My aftermarket coils from ebay also fit like that [likely makes a lot better seal] AND have no vent.

    I'm just a guy whose been around the block a few times, used to be a well-trained Navy tech, did some mechanic work [still work on my own], etc, but this vent business seems just plain whacky to me..

    Good Luck & let us know for sure, OK?

  • rollingrolling Posts: 5
    Hey BK, I haven't got the new coils yet, but I found the small, round external vent in an original ignition coil in my 2003 MPV. I swapped two of the coils (one of which had been throwing a CEL misfire) and drove around a bit. Everything is perfectly dry at present. Once again after one mile of driving, regular throbbing misfires commenced. (No CEL again yet.) In Drive at a complete stop, the throb occurred about every second. I parked the car and it sounds a bit like hissing. I think our problems are caused by a vacuum hose.
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