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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)

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  • boobahboobah Posts: 18
    You'd probably do best finding someone to set up the carb so it passes, and then set it back to where it runs properly. I've had to do that with my 87 Wrangler for years..either that or pay someone for a sticker..
  • Hello - I have 1992 Jeep Wrangler - great condition with 82,000 miles but recently has been cutting out on me more and more - about 6 mos ago I added STP gas additive to the tank and it seemed to improve only 3 mos later to do it again and then it improved again until this past weekend when the STP additive is not working and its really coughing and quitting on me at stoplights - sometimes not starting again because it seems to have flooded - its frustrating because it doesn't do it all of the time!!!
  • patrick25patrick25 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1985 cj7 that has only 45,000 miles on it. The question I have , since the jeep has been stored for about 10 years what maintenance do you think i need to have done.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .....what maintenance do you think i need to have done.

    All of it! ;)

    Ok, change all fluids, no exceptions (remember gas is a fluid too!).
    All rubber components will be suspect, especially brake hoses, wipers, coolant hoses, belts and tires.
    Change all filters, i.e. oil, air, and fuel.
    Renew all consumable ignition components, i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor arm, etc., etc.
    Get a new battery, grease the steering and suspension zerks, check the brakes, clean the carb (inside).

    Finally, expect some leaky seals and possibly some minor component failures in the first thousand miles or so. After that it should be good to go.

    Congratulations on your new Jeep! :)
  • patrick25patrick25 Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help! Looking forward to having fun with my new toy!
  • adel2foadel2fo Posts: 2
    In the last year I've noticed a fuel odor in, but mostly around the outside, of my Jeep. It's not constant, but it's there on a fairly regular basis. There's no visable sign of gas leaking, and I understand that it could be evaporating before I see it. I've had the evap canister checked, supposedly that's not the problem. Any suggestions on how to further troubleshoot this?
  • luke10luke10 Posts: 1
    I somehow happened to get an '89 wrangler for free from a neighbor. It's actually in decent shape and although it's got 134k miles, my friend said that it ran like a bear until he parked it in his yard and didn't start it for two years. I've scraped a lot of surface corrosion of the engine and I've charged the battery and tried to jump it but it only turns over very, very slowly a few times and then doesn't do much of anything. I'm thinking that there may be corrosion in the engine that's got things bound up and I wonder if anyone could give me a suggestion on how to get it started. I trust my friend about the condition of the engine so I don't think it's too far gone.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    I would not try to start the engine until you change the oil. After a few years who knows what you would be pumping through your engine. Remove all the plugs and put a shot of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder. Wait a bit and then "start" the engine with the plugs still out. It should turn VERY easily with no compression. Make sure the plugs are all clean and in good shape and then reinstall them. Also check the air intake for blockages as there are many small critters that may have made their home there. Finally after two years of just sitting I would be very surprised if any battery could still hold a charge well enough for a good start. You got a great deal!
  • Found my car dead when I attempted to leave work this evening. It appeared that I might have left the lights on or something because it was completely reacting the same way it does when I've tried to start it and have drained the battery. A friend of mine came out and made numerous attempts to jump-start the car. It appeared to be getting some juice but would not start. The light under the dash came on but when I tried to turn it the ignition wouldn't crank and it made weird clicking noises. The noises continued on even after I ceased trying to start it. We couldn't get it going. The car was acting like a demonic machine from as the gauges were clicking and moving when the car keys weren't even in the ignition. Pushed in the hazard lights and some of the weirdest noises started coming out from behind the steering wheel. The car drove fine four hours earlier and I don't recall any noises sounding off when I got out of the car earlier indicating that I had left the lights on ... nor were there any check engine lights on. The battery is almost five years old and has some corrosion on it (not anything extreme. I'm not certain it's the battery ... it was really weird and appeared to be something electrical. Could the car react that way if it is either a dead or bad battery?
  • I'm having the same problem Just bought a 1989 Islander tons of miles but body in great shape. Ran well when I bought it, but the next day idled real rough. Then started hard. I'm thinking about replacing carb. but not sure which carb. to replace it with. 4.0 liter, str8 six, any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • boobahboobah Posts: 18
    I have an 87 Wrangler...Jeeps from 87-89 are known for carbueration problems..my mechanic jerked me around for six months until he finally had to put a Weber carb in...never had a problem after that..got 207 K miles on it & the engine blew....rebuilt the engine and guess what...carb is still good!
  • we are new to Jeeps. we just bought an '89 Wrangler Islander with 59k miles on it. The previous owners were the 2nd owner's and only put 9k miles on in the 12 years they owned it. It sat for the past two years. I got a good deal on it. Sent it to a shop to work out some kinks. Intake gaskets were replaced and a new ECM put in. Runs OK now except the idle really sucks and it stalls at stop signs constantly. the mechanic told me that carburetor was in bad shape. I've researched some on line and it appears a good substitute for this is by use of a Weber replacement kit. But, I'm having trouble identifying which engine I have. The registration says 4.2L. Just about everything I read on line suggests it is a 4.2L. But, when I take off the air filter I believe I am looking at a 1-barrel carb. All the Webers I've seen seem to be replacements for a 2v set up. Does it matter what's on there now? Can the Weber (for intance the K551-38) replace whatever's on there whether it's a 1v or a 2v?
    the engine code on the pass side of the block is hard to read but the last several digits appear to be 4CL25. I haven't found anything on line to tell me what that means.
    anyone's assistance or experience with this would be a great help.
    thanks!
    Steven in Oregon
  • Read this in the Sunday's question/answer auto section Chicago Tribune:

    Q The owner's manual for my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 3.7-liter V-6 gas engine recommends 5W-20 motor oil. The manual isn't clear whether synthetic oil can be used. Can it?

    A Chrysler says that under terms of its warranty synthetic oil can be used in only its diesel Grand Cherokee, not in any of its gas versions.

    You think this includes the Jeep Wrangler V-6 also? If so, why? I though all auto companies favored less friction via synthetic oils?
  • I have a '93 YJ and I want to know everyone's opinion about the best, cheapest, and/or easiest full-length axle swap?

    Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • I recently acquired a 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L and took it to Merlin's to have a new exhaust put on. When they connected the air tube to the exhaust manifold they used high temp rubber hose, which of course melted and blew. I took it back to them and they did the same thing with the same outcome. What are you supposed to use to connect the air tube to the nipple on the exhaust manifold? Any ideas?
  • Did you ever get your problem resolved? I am having the same problem with my 95 Jeep Wrangler. I have to wait for the auto shutdown and fuel pump relays to click, when the clicking stops the Jeep starts. The cold and wet rain make the waiting time longer.
    Thanks for your time.
  • Have a 1989 YJ that my son at college (50 miles away) Turn signals were out and I replaced all questionable bulbs and replaced the fuse. Later noted in manual that backup lights are on same fuse. I tested and backup lights are also not working. Last year, my mechanic fixed backup lights by repairing the ground wire.

    Before I have my son drive back, should I have him change the backup bulbs? Any suggestions?
  • I put the weber carb on and you were right runs like it is brand new can't believe the difference. But did create a new problem. It seems as though when re attaching the vacum hoses I missed the hose that engages the 4 wheel drive. Does anyone have a schematic of the system. Found nothing in Haynes book. Still waiting for the Chilton book to arrive. Again thanks boobah for the weber carb solution I couldn't be happier.
  • yjbobyjbob Posts: 56
    Does the "4-wheel drive" hose connect from the carburetor to the front axle? If so, then the hose may not be necessary. The vacuum-operated front axle disconnect can be circumvented by placing washers in the housing to keep the yoke connected all the time. This is not a problem because 4wd is connected only when the transfer case is connected. IIRC TJ's (and CJ's) do not have this disconnect system. It was used on YJ's in an attempt to decrease wear on the front differential, but was found to be unnecessary.
    There may be a post in the main Jeep Wrangler board relating to this fix, or you can search the web for the YJ front axle disconnect repair.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    should I have him change the backup bulbs? Any suggestions?

    I wouldn't bother if the bulbs are functioning.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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