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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)

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Comments

  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    it is my understanding that there is a check valve at the back of the motor which causes the oil to blow by thus sending it thru the carb i have heard this but not seen it first hand this i a common problem with 6's
  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    try your spicer gears the thing that looks like a u joint put it in 4 wheel drive and in gear then reach down grab them and try to move them if they don't move they are good if there is play time for new ones it is easy but takes time 2-3 hours your should have proper tools and a garage
  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    very easy fix you have two mounts for the motor and two for the trany i have replaced my mounts as they were ripped out from the torq yes they have lots for a 4 banger, the trany has a stud that wears out also from torq its about 15 bucks cdn at the dealers ,need stud 4 washers and 2 rubber bushings its like a kit then you have a rubber block type mount for the trany that should be ok
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    i had a '95 wrangler 2.5L had same sort of problems. I would check exhaust manifold for leaks, before O2 sensor. If it is TBI olr MPI the exhaust suck in air and make computer think that engine is not getting enough gas, thus "flooding" the engine. Once engine warms up the gaps in manifold expand, closing it up. I replaced mine with a Borla header and noticed a definate inprovement in performance.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    For those of you that have a K&N filter these can set off your CEL if you spray to much oil on it.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    i used to have a 2.5L go with exhaust headers, I bought a Borla. I would go with high flow cat and muffler but keep exhaust stock diameter. You can't afford to loose the low end tourque. After that go with cold air intake. The header swap can be done in t he driveway if you are mechanicaly capible, it is fairly simple swap. Other than that the 2.5L is not worth the money to upgrade. I have heard the the turbo from a dodge neon 2.4L might bolt in. Honestly you would be better off selling the whole jeep and buying one with a 4.0L
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    my wrangler was 1989 2.5L 5-speed, as plain as they get. The motor mounts always needed to be changed, like every 6 months. The biggest issue i faced was the power stearing pump gets in the way of the long bolt. Remove it once and put the bolt through the other way, so the nut is on the pump side and the bolt pulls out toward the fire wall. Another thing I did was purchase the lifetime warrenty mount from Autozone (just one.) replace one at a time and use the lifetime warrenty to replace both. Just do it separate days.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    Jeep is notorious for specific parts that fail, I.E. Motor mounts, Exhaust Minfolds. This is inevitable regardless of engine(2.5 or 4.0.) M.O.R.E. makes a bombproof motor mount and i am sure you can find a tranny one, too. Jeep part is just not designed to handle off road touque situations. Be carefull buying transmission mounts i have see two style, one hase studs comeing out of mount that go through belly pan ans use a nut ans other use a bolt that screws into mount through belly . I would use the latter gives a more flush mount less to hang up on rocks. As for exhaust manifold, this can be hard to diagnose because of the heat shield. They ussualy crack near the collector, where each pipe meet as one. just remember if it ain't broke now it will be later. Don't buy OE replacement it will happen again.
  • Thanks for the advice Agill. It just so happens that I had a leak in the exhaust manifold. When my mechanic went to tighten it up he broke the bolt. I have since fixed it but never thought that it could still be leaking. I will check this out next. Thanks again
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    On a side note. After replacing any part of that see extreme heat changes, like manifold, bolts on the block and such. It is good practace to double check retourque the bolts the expanding and contracting wwill cause the bolts to back out or loosen. just something to keep in mind. Its funny that people say that Jeeps just break down. At least the failures are predictable and usually easily fixed. I also have owned a first gen. XJ with 2.8L V6, '79 Grand Wagoneer with 360 V8, and '99 Grand 4.7L V8. I have done countless research an all bumper to bumper. Feel free to ask and I may have an answer.
  • For some reason I can start the jeep but when I put it in gear fuse #11 blows and Jeep dies, that fuse says in the jeep book it the Central Power Distribution coil? what is that? what would cause this? how do we fix? and What do we look for? Please if anyone knows where to start looking for a short or what ever. we can put a wire in the slot where that fuse goes start it the wire gets so hot it burns, and every time we put fuse in it blows it????? if you know what this is please respond.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    i am no expert by any means but it sounds like the CPDC might be the coil that distribute the power for spark plugs. Just follow the center wire on you distributor cap and it should lead to the passenger side fire wall. I think you local auto parts store can check it. Also on my XJ the hydraulic clutch would leak onto the fuse box under the dash and cause fuses to blow, too. That leak can be fixed with a clutch master cylender rebuild kit. OR!! It could be the Nuetral Safty Switch. I read an article in JP magazine about rebuilding it. I can't find the article right now but I will cantinue to look for it.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    This is the article www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0805_1987_200
    1_jeep_cherokee_neutral_safety_switch
  • have 93 jeep wrangler and the speedometer just stopped working. Replaced the speed censor and still have no speedometer. Does it work off of the computer or is there something else we can try.
  • I will check that, great thank you.
  • Yeah, when the #11 fuse blows all guages quit working too.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    This is probably one of the craziest things that ever happend to my wrangler. There is supposed to be no pressure in transfer case. Mine was building pressure and forcing the t-case fluid uo through the speedo cable and out behind dash, Crazy right!? I had to fine the breather tube on the fire wall and blow through to and the leak went away, of course I had to remove the drain prug first. Also you speedo still reads revolutions on a toothed gear inside t-case just under sensor. check that, too
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    This is the article in May 2008 JP magazine. Tells you how to rebuild Neutal Safty Switch on an AS-4 automatic tranny. I hope it is the same as the link I posted earlier.
  • replaced engine now it want start.replaced cam,crank,dictributer,plugs,wires,coil,have power to coil and injectors but no fire to mechanics 600.00 still want start any ideas
  • My Jeep would run fine, we just had engine diagnostics done and had o2 sensor replaced. what happens is you can start the jeep but the minuite you put it in gear (auto Tranny) it dies and #11 fues blows then if you try to start it wont crank over put another #11 fuse in and it blows when you try to start jeep. wait a few minuites and put another #11 fuse in and you can start engine but again you try to put in gear it #11 fuse blows and it dies. This has happend earler last month but husband put wire where #11 fuse goes and it would work as normal with #11 fuse. What would cause this? if easier reply to bethannstarkey@yahoo.com
  • I have an all stocked manuel 92 wrangler and am planning on changing out the transmission fluids. since i'm doing that is there anything else i should along with it?

    mark
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    It can get pricey, being a '92 you are probably pushing 100,000+ miles, you should look into replacing diff. fluid front and rear, T-case, and breaks if you have the cash, even bleed clutch master cylinder. I would give the dealer a call to find fluid specs just to be sure you have the correct fluid. You don't want to burn the Limited slip on you rear axle. It is not that hard to do but the tranny sits up inside the 'hump' on the floor of the jeep. If you have big hands you barely have enough room to get the fill plug off. Best to buy a pump. Further more the 90w gear oil is very smelly, almost intolerable to me (almost.) Honestly I would just take it to a quick lube place and just pay to have them do it. It moves the liabilty to them and you don't have to dispose of it. It should be about 50 bucks a service. I worked at a Toyota dealership that used B/G products. the 40K is a fuel system cleaner you put in the tank and would place my kids college fund on the line. The stuff is incredibly good. They offer a full line of product to help bring you systems back to life. sorry for rambleing. Good luck.
  • We just had a brand new transmission put in 4 months ago.
  • My Jeep is a 1997, sorry not a 92. But any way thank you kindly for your assistance.
  • i have a 89 jeep yj with manual transmissiom. a hose has come loose on the motor side of the hose. in other words, the hose is stiil attached to transmission, but i need to know where it attaches on motor. thanks.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    i believe that there are four hoses on the back side of the t-case. this is what engages the 4x4. Two are vacuum supply, probably comes from intake manifold, they are responsible for engaging/disengaging t-case. one is like a breather hose and only functions as an air releases and should be routed to fire wall in engine compartment to keep water out. the other goes to the front axle on the passenger side to move the shift fork inside the axle tube, in other words it turns on the front wheels. All vacuum comes from the intake manifold. It hase been so long, i think the colors are red, blue yellow and green. any after market repair manual with vacuum diagrams should help, it has to say that it has vacuum diagrams though, not all books have them. I got mine on amazom for likek $5.00. I almost possative that the only hose on the tranny is just a breather tube also. on my '89 wrangler it was on the fire wall just to the right on the ingnition coil. it looked like it has a little hat on. This in just to prevent stuff from getting in and the only reason that it is on the fire wall is to keep water out of the tranny beside releaving the preasure that can build up.Hope this helps. Oh yeah bve very carefull with vacuum line, The factory ones get very brittle and break easily. I would buy some new vacuum line from parts store before even touching them just avoid having to make a trip.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    Your owners manual should recommend all the millage's you need to swap out fluids. Just remember off-road usage shortens the life of all your fluids and should be replaced more often. The differential also have breather tube that if come disconnected can allow water and dirt to get into diff housing. If you are fording waterway or submerging deep water or even blasting through little mud puddles all of this increases the possibility of water entering into places you do not want. I personally change my engine oil every 2500-3000 miles. I live in a very dry and sandy area.
  • Would this cause a fuse to keep blowing? ok we will check this, thank you very much for your assistance.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    there are no electrical conections involved with the vacuum switch on the transfer case. make sure that you have the correct amp fuse installed first. an after market stereo or navigation, anything that would be spliced into the harness could be possibilities if the are tapped into that power line. Some stereo shop may take short cuts that way. Even a switch that powers any Off Road lights. anything that is not factory install and requires power source. Check that first. Back trance line from souce too. The haynesor chilton manuals have wire digram, too. they are all color coded by jeep to help find wires.
  • Similar problem with my 94 4cyl wrangler. It takes about 7 times to crank if it is mildly cold outside (I won't even bother if the temp is below 40), but no problem when the temp is warmer. A local repair shop ran a diagnostic and determined the problem was the PCM. And quoted a price of $700-$800 to replace mine. A quick online search showed the cost of a PCM around $250. Is this part really that difficult to replace? I would appreciate any insight. Thanks.
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