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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)

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  • Try the crank sensor. I had the same problem with my 95 YJ, I replaced everything from the fuel pump all the way up to the plugs. Turned out it was the crank sensor and took me 5 minutes to replace... Hope it works...
  • Just about all the parts I got for my 95 YJ were from JCWhitney. I bought some off of ebay but start at JC they have just about anything you want. Have them send you a catalog there seems to be things there that arent on the site...
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    JC Whitney can be overpriced. There are LOTS of offroad vendors available, depending on what you are wanting to do to your Jeep. I tend to use the smaller places to support the local economies and their customer service tends to be much better. JCWhitney and Q-tec have been known to be a hassle to deal with when returning stuff.

    Depending on what you want to do, here are some vendors to consider:

    www.dpgoffroad.com (Kansas)
    www.northridge4x4.com (Washington State)
    www.4x4groupbuy.com (Maine/Arizona)
    www.4x4rockshop.com (Alabama)
    www.redrock4x4.com (Colorado)
    www.offroadtoystore.com (Colorado)

    If you want to go specifically to a manufacturer, many sell direct as well.

    I've used all the above and had ZERO complaints with any of them.

    -Paul
  • i have a 1993 jeep wrangler and the engine will turn over but wont start right away. It used to take about 5 minutes now i am at about 20. After u turn the ignition on u have to wait 20 min then u can here the relays kick on then the fuel pump as soon as the fuel pump kicks up she stars no problem. I have replaced the relays, the fuel pump, and the ignition switch and am still at the same problem.
  • I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler. I had the same exact problem. I also replaced everything like you did. It was my computer, had it replaced about a year ago and no longer have the problem. The mechanic told me the way to check it, when you turn the ignition and the check engine light is not on, your computer is not sending the signals to start the jeep. Mine took twice as long when it was cold or raining, sometimes took an hour to start. I hope this helps!
    ~Diane~ :)
  • I have a 95 Wrangler. When you turn on the ignition b4 cranking it, the check engine light should be on. If it's not, then your computer is bad and needs to be replaced. If your check engine light isn't coming on at first, try turning your ignition on and off several times and watch for the check engine light to come on. It should start when the check engine light comes on. And if that's the scenerio, then your computer is bad.
  • Can anyone tell me where to find a computer harness for my 84 CJ7? I have looked all over and they all point to the Painless wiring harness, but their complete OEM package still won't include the harness going to the computer. The existing harness has been messed with by the previous owner (splices with duct tape). So if anyone has suggestions as to where to get one I would be thankful.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    This bit?

    image

    There are two complete harnesses on eBay at the moment by the same seller for $150 each.

    Auction One

    Auction Two

    Another solution would be a car breakers.
  • I have a 76 Jeep CJ-7 that sat for several years, it will start and run in "start position" (starter engaged) but dies in run or on position. I am assuming it must be the ignition switch (key switch). All the gauges and electrical work with the key in the “on” position, it just will not run.
  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    just did it, bring it to a pro it cost me 250 cdn for all new,i am a doit youselfer sometimes it's cheaper to pay i have a 92&94 just did the 94 and they should all be the same outside spacer then there is the rubber on the inside leave it on and buy new rubber for the outside[20 bucks]if you buy the tape adhesive you got one shot good luck to be safe i would say a pro would charge 60bucks and you don;t get dirty
  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    it is my understanding that there is a check valve at the back of the motor which causes the oil to blow by thus sending it thru the carb i have heard this but not seen it first hand this i a common problem with 6's
  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    try your spicer gears the thing that looks like a u joint put it in 4 wheel drive and in gear then reach down grab them and try to move them if they don't move they are good if there is play time for new ones it is easy but takes time 2-3 hours your should have proper tools and a garage
  • ronbo2ronbo2 Posts: 6
    very easy fix you have two mounts for the motor and two for the trany i have replaced my mounts as they were ripped out from the torq yes they have lots for a 4 banger, the trany has a stud that wears out also from torq its about 15 bucks cdn at the dealers ,need stud 4 washers and 2 rubber bushings its like a kit then you have a rubber block type mount for the trany that should be ok
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    i had a '95 wrangler 2.5L had same sort of problems. I would check exhaust manifold for leaks, before O2 sensor. If it is TBI olr MPI the exhaust suck in air and make computer think that engine is not getting enough gas, thus "flooding" the engine. Once engine warms up the gaps in manifold expand, closing it up. I replaced mine with a Borla header and noticed a definate inprovement in performance.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    For those of you that have a K&N filter these can set off your CEL if you spray to much oil on it.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    i used to have a 2.5L go with exhaust headers, I bought a Borla. I would go with high flow cat and muffler but keep exhaust stock diameter. You can't afford to loose the low end tourque. After that go with cold air intake. The header swap can be done in t he driveway if you are mechanicaly capible, it is fairly simple swap. Other than that the 2.5L is not worth the money to upgrade. I have heard the the turbo from a dodge neon 2.4L might bolt in. Honestly you would be better off selling the whole jeep and buying one with a 4.0L
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    my wrangler was 1989 2.5L 5-speed, as plain as they get. The motor mounts always needed to be changed, like every 6 months. The biggest issue i faced was the power stearing pump gets in the way of the long bolt. Remove it once and put the bolt through the other way, so the nut is on the pump side and the bolt pulls out toward the fire wall. Another thing I did was purchase the lifetime warrenty mount from Autozone (just one.) replace one at a time and use the lifetime warrenty to replace both. Just do it separate days.
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    Jeep is notorious for specific parts that fail, I.E. Motor mounts, Exhaust Minfolds. This is inevitable regardless of engine(2.5 or 4.0.) M.O.R.E. makes a bombproof motor mount and i am sure you can find a tranny one, too. Jeep part is just not designed to handle off road touque situations. Be carefull buying transmission mounts i have see two style, one hase studs comeing out of mount that go through belly pan ans use a nut ans other use a bolt that screws into mount through belly . I would use the latter gives a more flush mount less to hang up on rocks. As for exhaust manifold, this can be hard to diagnose because of the heat shield. They ussualy crack near the collector, where each pipe meet as one. just remember if it ain't broke now it will be later. Don't buy OE replacement it will happen again.
  • Thanks for the advice Agill. It just so happens that I had a leak in the exhaust manifold. When my mechanic went to tighten it up he broke the bolt. I have since fixed it but never thought that it could still be leaking. I will check this out next. Thanks again
  • agillagill Posts: 19
    On a side note. After replacing any part of that see extreme heat changes, like manifold, bolts on the block and such. It is good practace to double check retourque the bolts the expanding and contracting wwill cause the bolts to back out or loosen. just something to keep in mind. Its funny that people say that Jeeps just break down. At least the failures are predictable and usually easily fixed. I also have owned a first gen. XJ with 2.8L V6, '79 Grand Wagoneer with 360 V8, and '99 Grand 4.7L V8. I have done countless research an all bumper to bumper. Feel free to ask and I may have an answer.
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