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Ford Freestar Electrical Problems

24

Comments

  • robitzerrobitzer Posts: 4
    This is purely a guess but...the WIndstar and Freestar are basically the same vehicle with some minor trim changes and a different engine (same AX4N Trans). I suspect an ICM on the Freestar is in the same location as the WIndstar
  • djcriddledjcriddle Posts: 6
    We checked. The Haynes manual says passenger side fender wall, between the coolant reservoir and the right strut tower. We didn't see it. guess we're blind. lol :D
  • ffemt451ffemt451 Posts: 1
    My family has a 2004 Freestar we were at the store the other day after a 10 mile drive and the van died it initially restarted without any problems so we parked it and went in the store when we came back out and tried to start it it would click only once like the starter couldn't turn the flywheel anyone else ever have this problem? We had the starter tested and it came back fine but I can't get it to start!
  • Where do I start...purchased a 2004 Freestar privately and after a week the transmission and computer went out. My wife turned it on one day and it wouldn't go anywhere. Had it towed to Ford dealer and they replaced both items. Brought it home and after a week or two the van stalled and coasted to the side of a gravel road. Again would not go into drive or reverse and it happened after a heavy rain which I thought was interesting. Had it towed back to Ford dealer and after a month or so of troubleshooting they thought it was a bad PCM from Ford and they replaced it. (Ford covered it apparently) I expressed from the get go that I thought water was getting into the PCM due to forums like these and they disagreed with me. So I took the van home after the different PCM was installed and the next morning the battery was dead. After troubleshooting, I found out that the van was turning on the radio and listening to 590 AM w/out the keys in the ignition. Again this confirmed my idea about water getting into the PCM. Took it back to dealer and they again disagreed with me and after a couple months of troubleshooting on their part finally found water in the PCM. Except this time they want me to cover the new PCM!! Unbelieveable. They will not back down from this and I even called Ford and complained to them about this whole situation and engineering problem on their end. Nothing...and let it be known that i am a FORD guy! This has really left me wondering if I will purchase another Ford. Very upset. I have spent 3500 on it already and if i have to pay for the PCM it will be another 700. I found a post about a guy finding a firewall support column full of water and drilling a hole in it but the dealer won't even try to find this column. Have tried to pick it up twice and both times the service engine light comes on before going more than 10 miles. This time it is saying the cam sensor. I think water is still getting into the computer even though they claim to have siliconed the heck out of it. The TSB 6-10-14 has already been done apparently.
  • zildzild Posts: 1
    I too have had my PCM "fixed"....for $500....about 3 years ago. It ran fine after that. Now a new problem and I was hoping to get some opinions here.

    1. In the last 2 months I've had my AC "recharged" and the transmission rebuilt. Does anybody know if the guys doing any of that work would have reason to access the PCM? If so, they probably didn't re-seal it properly and I should do it. My electrical problem seems to happen more in wet weather.....or maybe it's coincidence.

    I suspect I have a short:

    2. Sometimes when trying to start the van it just goes 'click', 'click', 'click', etc. So I lightly jiggle the positive battery cable and it will start. Sometimes it takes 1-2 tries...sometimes it takes 7-9 tries.....but always worked for last few weeks. Had it checked at Autozone.....Starter is good, Alternator is good, battery was bad so I replaced it 2 weeks ago and still have the problem. Went to leave for work today and it won't start. Tried the jiggle wire trick 25-30 times.....no deal.

    a. All the connections are tight: Battery terminal, starter, ground.
    b. When it does not start, I still have power.....windows work, lights work, bell goes ding, ding with door open.
    c. One time the van will go click, click, click, etc. Jiggle cable and maybe it will just go click (once) and then dead. Jiggle cable again and maybe get absolutely nothing--no click, completely dead (but still have lights, bell, etc.) Every time I jiggle the cable I get one of these responses....completely random.

    For the last 2 weeks it hasn't been too bad. Like I said, usually only 2 or 3 jiggles and I would find the "sweet spot" and the van would start.

    Do these symptoms sound like water in the PCM?

    I suspect that a short developed somewhere in the positive cable over time but never reared it's ugly head until somebody got under there and moved stuff around while working on the van. Does this sound to anyone like I'm on the right track?
  • rosco804rosco804 Posts: 6
    hello farmtech31 and ffemt451:

    please read my posting, I believe its # 11, (re the 2005 freestar with 90,000...)

    Sounds like the trouble I had could be what you went through... I was lucky enough to spend less than $10 to get it fixed...

    Sorry you already spent the money, but hopefully this info will find you... go after Ford... thats ridiculous what they did to you..

    Rosco
  • I am currently having an electrical problem with my 05 Freestar. My light out indicator is coming on occasionally and when it does, the van will not shift from park into any gear, the passenger side headlight is out, no brake lights, no driver side rear turn signal or tail light and my driver side cornering light is on even when the turn signal is not on. Has anyone had any issues like this? If so what is the fix? I've tried the brake on off switch, also replaced the smart junction box or internal fuse box. Neither of these took care of the problem.
  • Google "PCM problems with WIndstar/Freestar vans. I suspect you have a corrosion problem with your PCM which can cause your problems.
  • I believe your problem is your PCM. It is getting wet and shorting out, It is a design flaw. Mine caused me all kinds of grief. Wipers would turn on without me touching the switch, The Radio would pop on and off. the windows stopped working. they replaced the window motor. but personally I beleive it fried because of the PCM.
    same with the Air conditioner compressor. after the Pmc shorted out three times within 40 days leaving me stranded. I turned it in to the dealership as a voluntary Repo. I'm in court next week being sued for 15 grand by the bank. because the dealership could not fix the problem.
  • jimmybaby2jimmybaby2 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    I have a headlight issue with my '05 Ford Freestar SE. Headlights work fine on low beam, but when switched to highbeam, headlights go out entirely. Have changed bulbs and all fuses are intact. Any ideas? PS this problem is on both sides.
  • bert_hbert_h Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    Did it ever get resolved? my 2004 mercury monterey has been somewhat reliable for the four years I had it, but now I am getting very similar.. Funny how it goes to 590 AM on the stereo, even after shut off, and from a different station. The CD player keeps making noise like it is trying to pull a disk in, and the stereo displays a bunch of OOOOOs on it. Now intermittently, the car won't start - starter solenoid clicks, but no turning. Lights die when I do that, but then come right back brightly. It has happened three times. First time I jumped it, nothing - until I started the other car. Then it started right up. Second time, it would not restart, but later that night it started repeatedly. Next morning, problem shows up again.
  • All of my electrical problems were solved (I had some of the same issues you are having and many more) when I had the power control module (PCM) replaced. It was in the shop almost 25 times in the first two years. I haven't had it in since the PCM was replaced. Sadly it took me printing off info from this site for them to fix my problem.
  • Did you solved the problem? I have about the same problem, My PCM was wet, after I dried it 4 days with a small heater, the car start and work fine but the radio stay on sometimes, the auto-light is on and the power windows is alimented without the key...

    I tough that the SJB was the problem but I've read that someone has changed it but still have the same problem.

    Sorry for my very bad english, I speak french.
    :mad:
  • Just got our van back ('04 Freestar)-- Traction control lite is on, and also cruise doesn't work since as I understand it the systems are integrated. $400 later (for rear rotors and pads-- which were replaced 2.5 years ago), plus an $80 diagnostic fee, they want $2000 to replace hydraulic control module and traction control modules (I think)-- dealership is being good about it-- offered me a 20% discount on parts, and is contacting regional manager to see if they can do more (this is the 5th ford we've owned)-- but after reading about other's problems online, and that there's an NHTSA action investigation about water getting in, I'm wondering if my problem is related? NHTSA action number PE10033 FYI.
  • kedferkedfer Posts: 4
    edited November 2010
    I had the same problem (cruise control) and I've changed a swith under the master cylinder and the problem was solved. My friend with an Explorer had the same problem and a little garage had is switch unplugged and put a wire between the 2 connector and the problem was solved.
    For your traction control problem, there's a TSB about it... and It said to replace both modules, which I did not do because of the price. The problem is coming when it's raining...

    Sorry for my english, I speak French...

    TSB:

    FORD: 2004-2005 Freestar
    MERCURY: 2004-2005 Monterey

    ISSUE:
    Some 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey vehicles may exhibit a traction control indicator on, ABS indicator on, and/or self ABS activation with a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) C1288.

    ACTION:
    It may be necessary to replace the ABS module, the HCU, or the brake pressure switch. Refer to the following Service Procedure.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    NOTE: IF THE DTC C1288 IS PRESENT ALONG WITH OTHER DTCS, REPAIR THE OTHER CODES FIRST BEFORE CONTINUING WITH THIS TSB.

    First perform normal diagnostics per Workshop Manual Section 206-09.
    If the concern is corrected, return the vehicle to the customer.
    If the concern is still present, proceed to Step 2.
    Ensure that the latest ABS module is installed, engineering part number 5F2Z-2B373-BA or higher.
    If the latest ABS module is not installed, proceed to Step 3.
    If the latest module is installed, proceed to Step 4.
    Install latest level ABS module. When installing, check for water on the circuit board and/or in the aluminum cavity of the hydraulic control unit (HCU). If water is present, replace the HCU as well. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 206-09 for removal and installation procedures. Perform IVD calibration sequence.
    If the concern is corrected, return the vehicle to the customer.
    If the concern is still present and only the ABS module was replaced, proceed to Step 4.
    If the concern is still present and both the ABS and HCU were replaced, proceed to Step 5.
    Monitor the brake pressure transducer (MPRETDR) PID using NGS. The KOER PID reading should be fluctuating with no brake pedal applied, this is normal. Lightly apply the brake pedal and the PID reading should be approximately 200. Then increase brake pedal pressure, the reading should increase.
    If the brake pressure transducer does not operate as described, replace the HCU assembly. If the concern is corrected, return the vehicle to the customer.
    If the brake pressure transducer does operate as described, or if concern is still present after HCU replacement, proceed to Step 5.
    Check operation of the brake pressure switch. With key on, measure voltage at ABS module Pin-6. With the brake pedal released, battery voltage should be present. Apply the brake pedal, the voltage reading should be zero (0) volts. If the brake pressure switch does not operate as described, check the circuit for the brake pressure switch at the master cylinder. If no circuit problems are found, replace the brake pressure switch.
    NOTE: FOR AN INTERMITTENT C1288, MONITOR (MPRETDR) PID DATA WHEN THE CODE SETS, LOOK FOR INTERFERENCE FROM ELECTRIC MOTORS (SUCH AS WINDSHIELD WIPERS OR POWER SEATS). REPLACE THE ABS MODULE FOR THIS CONDITION.

    PART NUMBER PART NAME
    5F2Z-2B373-BA ABS Module
    5F2Z-2B373-DA HCU
    3F2Z-9F924-AB Brake Pressure Switch

    WARRANTY STATUS:
    Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
    050617A 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace Anti Lock Brake Module (Includes Time To Configure Module, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 1.0 Hr.
    050617B 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace Anti Lock Brake Module And Brake Pressure Switch (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Configure Module And Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 1.7 Hrs.
    050617C 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace The Anti Lock Module And HCU (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Configure Module, Bleed Brake System, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 2.2 Hrs.
    050617D 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace The Anti Lock Module, HCU, And Brake Pressure Switch (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Configure Module, Bleed Brake System, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 2.5 Hrs.
    050617E 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace The Brake Pressure Switch (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Bleed Brake System, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 1.4 Hrs.
  • kelvin21kelvin21 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    OK, I have a 2007 Freestar, recently I went to Walmart for new tires, they broke the Tire pressure Monitor on the right rear. Of course they claimed it was already broke, however now, the cruise control quit working and when I shut off the car the windows still operate and the radio won't turn off unless you turn it off manually. Anybody have a clue whats going on? Thanks Btw, the radio is supposed to shut off by it self when you shut the car off and open the door. This all happened around the same time so I'm thinking its all related, but maybe not.
  • nadinebnadineb Posts: 190
    Look at the PCM. If it gets wet, weirdness will happen.
  • kelvin21...

    see my post under this topic.. it was from April 2009... read it... I bet you the tire pressure monitor being broken is just a coincidence it happened around the same time... my post was about the $4 fix...
  • glez_autoglez_auto Posts: 1
    edited January 2011
    I got the same problem with my vehicle. Just wanted to know if you were able to find a solution to this random lighting problem? Would really appreciate the help. I have tried isolating the problem from the Smart Junction Box down in the kick Panel. I analyzed all the lighting circuits, and focused on the Accessory delay relays causing an automatic actuation of the lights. I also opened the transmitter from the key and sure enough the unlock button was stuck maybe causing an automatic engagement of the unlock button, therefore all the lights turning on. However all attempts in diagnosing went down the drain since lights turn on and off at random times. And when a test is performed, the problem randomly ceases from occurring for a few hours or even days and then comes back. My theory is a defective Smart Junction Box or a defective PCM. Once again thanks for any help that you can give. my email is eliuglez@gmail.com
  • The dealer wanted $2000 to replace the hydraulic control module on our '04 Freestar Limited-- (traction control, cruise and anti-lock brakes didn't work) ; w/ 67,000 miles, it was also due for transmission fluid change, and I'm sure, not long after, the timing belt

    Went down to the Dodge dealer and traded it in for a 2010 GC w/ heated leather seats, the works, leasing for $160 per month! Figure we'll be driving a new van for the next couple of years and still at least be as well off as if we'd sunk more $ into the Freestar! And the more I read about the vans, the more convinced I was it was time to ditch it while I could get some $ on trade in.
  • biglusebigluse Posts: 2
    The front driver window works about 10% of the time, and of course since I don't drive it very often I often forget. There is no motor noise, its like the power is cut, and then a couple days later it starts working again. I've checked for lose connections, but am coming up empty.
  • nadinebnadineb Posts: 190
    If the PowerControlModule (PCM) has gotten wet and corrosion has formed on the pins (make sure you check all ends), it may be the source of the problem. The PCM is the computer control center for the vehicle, and any moisture will create a bad situation.
  • ddivittoddivitto Posts: 3
    I just wanted to thank you for putting this information on here, I was having all of the talked about electrical issues to the point all the lights and buzzers and alarm went haywire, I was unable to drive the car and I had to pull out 4 fuses just so it would be quiet and dark over until I could get it fixed. I was able to find the technical bulletin and have a mechanically inclined friend dry out and reseal my pcm, thanks to your post. I am still having problems with the door ajar light and buzzer going on, I am not sure if that related but I assumed it was. My tranny did quit also, If there are others with these issues please report them to the NHTSA since there are currently investigations on both the PCM and transmission problems.
  • finfan365finfan365 Posts: 1
    Were you ever able to resolve this issue? I am having identical issues with my '04 Freestar.
  • dayspringdayspring Posts: 7
    No, The vehicle was turned back in as a voluntary Repo. The financial Institute took me to court and received a twenty thousand dollar Judgement against me. no money to fight Ford.
  • kedferkedfer Posts: 4
    Yes after I've dried the PCM for 3 days...
  • davintoshdavintosh Posts: 2
    Having some strange problems with our 2005 Freestar today; the key fob remotes quit working. Pressing the lock button would get the locks to click open, but none of the other buttons would do anything. Went through the reprogramming routine several times with both remotes, and although the van responded as it should (locks closed then opened when button was pressed) the remotes did the same thing afterward.

    Also, before I tried reprogramming the remotes, my son happened to be looking out the house window & saw the side door on the van open and close on its own. Both remotes were untouched in a drawer on the other side of the house. Would these issues be symptoms of something goofy with the Smart Junction Box?
  • I know this is an old post but I still wanted to reply. I too have a 05 freestar with the same problem, minus the battery going dead. We noticed it about two years ago sitting out on our deck in the summer. The inside lights would just randomly come on. I know for a fact the there are electrical problems. I also have had all my dash lights go out, and I can not get them back on.......... I have to say this is a long standing problem with the freestars, and I will will most likley choose a different make of car next time around!
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