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Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager Cooling System (radiator, fan, etc.)

pmarypmary Posts: 14
Hi- for replacement;
Does any one know where the cooling fan (electrical)relay module is located.? Most repair manuals leave out its location.
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Comments

  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 979
    Not sure if this helps, but there was some discussion about this awhile back: Re: Cooling Fans not coming on

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 979
    Hi, folks,

    I've moved the drum removal posts to our existing brakes discussion, where they'll have a better chance of being noticed and answered: 2001 - 2006 rear drum removal by bobconstance

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    Hi,
    After much searching I found the Relay resting on top of the front bumper (rail frame re-bar) in behind the grill on the driver's side.To access it you will need to remove the head lamp (3 screws) module.The Relay is attached (factory installed)by a large rivet. A large pry bar may be required to free the faulty relay. Remove the wiring harness with a small hooked flat screwdriver under the (hidden) inside area of the locking tab. Before re-connecting put a spot of vaseline on each tab of the new module to reduce moisture corrosion.The Relay has to be firmly re-attached to the bumper to create a heat sink.You will need to remove the rivet from the bumber with a long cold chisel and re-attach the new module with a 9/32" self tapping large screw (or see dealer's replacement part). Re-attach the wiring harness before re-attaching the module to the bumber.Make sure it is well secured- the radiator is right behind it!
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    Hi,
    The 9/32" self tapping screw just wouldn't cut it. I wound up tapping the hole with a 5/16" NC 16 tap bit mounted from a small T bar tap ratchet. I removed a piece of a web from the grill to give me some leverage. Its a very tight area in behind the grill to work with but a threaded bolt and lock washer now has the cooling fan relay firmly re-secured. I think a secure mount might work as a ground for the circuit as well so a tight installation with no loose play is a must. Be careful not to tighten the bolt too hard or you may strip the (2) threads in the hole. Some thread lock might be a good idea as well. The cooling fans are now working once again with a warm engine idling while stopped in traffic !
  • hofhof Posts: 15
    I have a 2006 Grand Caravan with only 2500 miles on it. When our January cold snap hit, I noticed the temperature gauge never gets above the mark JUST BELOW the midline. At first I thought it was because of sub-zero temperatures. Now that it has warmed up into the 40's, it still isn't reaching the midline. Should I be concerned?

    Steve from Indy
  • That's about where mine (2001 Caravan SE) stays, no matter if it's 0 or 100 degrees outside.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Since the advent of the ODB-II diagnostic requirements from Big Brother (in 1996 IIRC), I have yet to see a single car sold here in the U.S. that didn't have a temperature gauge that wasn't a glorified idiot light. When the engine is cold, it shows cold, when the engine has already overheated, it shows hot, and for pretty much everything else, it shows in the middle.

    For confirmation, check virtually any car you want, Chrysler, Mercedes, Lexus, BMW, Jaguar, Kia, Nissan, Subaru, it doesn't matter.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • amduncanamduncan Posts: 1
    PMARY

    I am curious what was the reason for replacing the relay module?

    I have a '03 caravan and the radiator fans are coming on all on their own, even with no keys in the ignition. From what I have found on the net and the error code form the dash (P1491-Radiator fan control relay circuit) I suspect it is the relay myself.

    any help is appreciated
  • My van is overheating when air is on and idling. The fans are not working. We have checked the fuses and relays.

    Singlemom3
  • Hey ya'll .... We have a 99 Grand Voyager expresso.
    My hubby replaced the radiator and since then the radiator fan hasn't come on.
    He rigged it up someway but we now have to pop the hood and connect it to the battery for the fan to come on each time and take it off.... he says he can purchase a switch for 3 bucks and install it in the car so we can turn it on & off inside but that can't be the only way. Any ideas on what may be wrong and what we need to do to fix it? :confuse:
    If the fan was broken why would it work w. a direct connect to the battery?
    I might add...in case it's helpful... directly after changing the radiator, the hose going from the tranny to the radiator burst, we lost all of our fluid and thought the tranny had blown. :sick: Still dont know why but since then I found out we were using the WRONG fluid (dextron or something) so I bought some ATF+4 and found a new cooler line and problem solved for under 50 bucks...PLUS the tranny no longer has the slight slip that it had before around 35mph (due to incorrect fluid, I bet)
  • tatalesuatatalesua Posts: 1
    I am a single mom and have put some money into my 1997 Dodge Caravan here lately and am still having problems. I am wondering if my thermostat is bad as the van has a tendency to overheat when going small distances and once in a while on 20-30 mile distances. Also I just had to put a new battery in and every time I get in my van you have to go 7 - 10 miles for the gauges to reset. What's up and can anyone please, please help me. I try not to beg but I am giving up at this point. I put in my own battery and my own auto shut off relay switch as my fans would not shut off when the van was not running and no keys in the van.
  • hdbrg1hdbrg1 Posts: 3
    2000 AWD sport. My temp gauge is at half way just idling. The thermostat is new, and I fear I will need to replace the radiator. It looks corroded and rusty at the ends. Are there any alternatives?? The car is on its last legs(140k) and I hate to put toooo much money into it. I pull a Coleman pop-up with it, and wonder if I shouldn't. Any thoughts??
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,567
    Is that not where it is supposed to be? The temperature gauges on my Subarus always point mid-way between L and H when fully warm, as does my 1998 GC. None of them move higher than that (unless there is a problem!).

    Where did yours normally top out when warmed up?
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • hdbrg1hdbrg1 Posts: 3
    My gauge normally ran between 1/4 and a 1/2. I noticed a couple weeks ago that it was running at half way, and a problem I do believe I have. Not sure how far I can drive safely. I live in Germany and there's not a whole lot of Chrysler dealers around. And if I drive to Italy or France I'm really hurting if it breaks down. Guess it's time for a new van.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,567
    Well, start with flushing the radiator with a good solvent to clear any blockages and see where that gets you. If the van is running too warm, you would probably notice some significant variations (drop) in the temperature gauge when you are running at high speed and low rpm (such as descending a long hill).

    The bottom line, though, is that if you cannot feel at ease when driving it and do not want to fix it, then it is likely time to move on to something else. :(
    2010 Subaru Forester, 2011 Ford Fiesta, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup, 1974 Ford Pinto Wagon
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    Does it over heat in cooler temps.?

    1) Check the fuses for the cooling fans.

    2) When you see the temperature gauge going up to hot. Pull over, open the hood and see if the cooling fan is going. (If not, it might be the coolant temp. sensor.)

    3) With the van running in Park, at idle speed, turn on the AC and see if the cooling fans are running. (Both fans should run all the time when using the AC.)

    4) Make sure there is nothing blocking the flow of air through the cooling coils in the radiator. Sometimes you might have to run the garden hose over the cooling coils to rinse away all dirt and lent build up.

    5) You can check the top radiator hose when the van is cold, to see if the thermostat is opening up and not stock closed. When you first start the van, let it run in Park at idle. As you see the temp. gauge going up, feel the top radiator hose to see if it is getting warm/hot. If it is still cold, then the thermostat has not opened yet to allow the coolant to flow thru the radiator to be cooled. If you see the temp. gauge going past the halfway point and the top hose is still on the cool side, it might be the thermostat :shades:
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan, the blower switch only works on high. How hard is it to fix myself?? Thanks for any help.. Bill
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    Hi,
    You may have a short in the primary power wire from the relay to the cooling fan motor. A multi-tester in the continuity setting would confirm if theres a break in the line. An akward visual inspection from underneath the vehicle may also spot it. If so,cut the bad piece out and splice in an equal gauge of wire to graft it in to position. Ideally, copper wire could be soldered with rubber heat shrink tubing placed around it to seal it.
  • Thanks everyone, I ended up replacing the resistor pack myself (very easy). I think it cost me $18 and some change. I ended up having to cut off a small piece of wire to the blower motor(melted) and replace the end with a female connector from autozone for about $6 dollars.

    All in all I think the whole thing was about $24 and tax.

    And to think, the dealer said it was going to cost me $80 to LOOK AT IT!!!!

    Thanks
    Bill :shades:
  • eric2eric2 Posts: 14
    my 98 voyager overheated again today, it has an overheated problem about 1 month ago, I replaced the fan relay, then it seems running good until today. When I stopped my car in the parking space, I heard a noise coming from the front, sounds like something boiling water. I guess it was the coolant, but when I look at the temp guage, the temp was right at the middle, seems normal to me, but next second, lots of white smoke come out under the hood, but no burnt smell, and the coolant spill over over the floor.....smoke stops about after 10 mintues. what should I do next?? please advice.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    What you saw was apparently steam and not smoke, a very important (and fortunate for you) distinction. It sounds like you need to fill the radiator and coolant overflow bottle and get it to a decent mechanic to debug the problem.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • The radiator fan keeps running on my 2001 Chrysler Town and Country, even with the ignition off. Also got engine light signal. Switched 40A relay in fuse box and this did not change situation. I believe the fan motor control relay is stuck in the closed position. Problem is I can't find where this relay is located on the car. Checked Chilton and Haynes manuals without success. Can't find anything on-line pertaining to location. Both Murray's and Autozone have replacement part but were no help in locating where to find it on the van. Dealers are all down for the weekend.

    Does anyone know where this relay is located.
  • have a 2003 caravan 3.3l with 100,000 kms that keeps loosing coolant. dont notice any on ground, white exhaust, filmy windows or odors. No matter how hot engine is running, the rad hoses are never hard, alwalys soft but not collapsed. any help would be appreciated.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I'd check the weep hole on the nose of your water pump. While the pump on our 2003 is still intact and not leaking after well over 170,000 kms, I've heard from other 2003 owners that their pumps started leaking right around the 100,000 km mark.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • I have a '93 Caravan 3.0 litre that runs like a top; it does, however, suffer from age related complaints, the most recent of which is a coolant leak. I naturally found this following a much needed cooling system flush. The leak appears to be coming from the pipe on the return side to the radiator. The hose is new, and the little pipe it comes off of appears to be in good shape, so if I had to guess, I would say the o-ring on the engine side of the pipe is shot. My question is this: How do you replace it? Visibility is nil when it comes to seeing just how to get at it.

    Many thanks in advance for any input,

    Mosander
  • dmainsdmains Posts: 4
    The fan motors on my 1999 voyager are not working. Fuse is good. Where do I look from here?

    Thank you
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Could be the fan relay. Pull the connector off the fan and, probe the connector pins with a voltmeter. When you think the fan should be coming on (by looking at your temperature gauge), i think their should be 12V across the pins.

    Another thing you could do is to try and apply 12V directly to the fan motor (after taking off the connector) and see if the fan spins. Need to be careful if you do this using the battery, however, 'cause a short might melt the wires you were using.

    The purpose of these two experiments is to try and isolate the problem to either the fan motor itself or the controlling relay, sensor, and associated wiring.
  • dmainsdmains Posts: 4
    I cannot seem to locate the relay for the radiator cooling fans. Would appreciate some help in finding the relay.

    Thanks
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