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Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager Cooling System (radiator, fan, etc.)

pmarypmary Posts: 14
Hi- for replacement;
Does any one know where the cooling fan (electrical)relay module is located.? Most repair manuals leave out its location.


  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 974
    Not sure if this helps, but there was some discussion about this awhile back: Re: Cooling Fans not coming on

    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 974
    Hi, folks,

    I've moved the drum removal posts to our existing brakes discussion, where they'll have a better chance of being noticed and answered: 2001 - 2006 rear drum removal by bobconstance

    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    After much searching I found the Relay resting on top of the front bumper (rail frame re-bar) in behind the grill on the driver's side.To access it you will need to remove the head lamp (3 screws) module.The Relay is attached (factory installed)by a large rivet. A large pry bar may be required to free the faulty relay. Remove the wiring harness with a small hooked flat screwdriver under the (hidden) inside area of the locking tab. Before re-connecting put a spot of vaseline on each tab of the new module to reduce moisture corrosion.The Relay has to be firmly re-attached to the bumper to create a heat sink.You will need to remove the rivet from the bumber with a long cold chisel and re-attach the new module with a 9/32" self tapping large screw (or see dealer's replacement part). Re-attach the wiring harness before re-attaching the module to the bumber.Make sure it is well secured- the radiator is right behind it!
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    The 9/32" self tapping screw just wouldn't cut it. I wound up tapping the hole with a 5/16" NC 16 tap bit mounted from a small T bar tap ratchet. I removed a piece of a web from the grill to give me some leverage. Its a very tight area in behind the grill to work with but a threaded bolt and lock washer now has the cooling fan relay firmly re-secured. I think a secure mount might work as a ground for the circuit as well so a tight installation with no loose play is a must. Be careful not to tighten the bolt too hard or you may strip the (2) threads in the hole. Some thread lock might be a good idea as well. The cooling fans are now working once again with a warm engine idling while stopped in traffic !
  • hofhof Posts: 15
    I have a 2006 Grand Caravan with only 2500 miles on it. When our January cold snap hit, I noticed the temperature gauge never gets above the mark JUST BELOW the midline. At first I thought it was because of sub-zero temperatures. Now that it has warmed up into the 40's, it still isn't reaching the midline. Should I be concerned?

    Steve from Indy
  • That's about where mine (2001 Caravan SE) stays, no matter if it's 0 or 100 degrees outside.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Since the advent of the ODB-II diagnostic requirements from Big Brother (in 1996 IIRC), I have yet to see a single car sold here in the U.S. that didn't have a temperature gauge that wasn't a glorified idiot light. When the engine is cold, it shows cold, when the engine has already overheated, it shows hot, and for pretty much everything else, it shows in the middle.

    For confirmation, check virtually any car you want, Chrysler, Mercedes, Lexus, BMW, Jaguar, Kia, Nissan, Subaru, it doesn't matter.

    Best Regards,
  • amduncanamduncan Posts: 1

    I am curious what was the reason for replacing the relay module?

    I have a '03 caravan and the radiator fans are coming on all on their own, even with no keys in the ignition. From what I have found on the net and the error code form the dash (P1491-Radiator fan control relay circuit) I suspect it is the relay myself.

    any help is appreciated
  • My van is overheating when air is on and idling. The fans are not working. We have checked the fuses and relays.

  • Hey ya'll .... We have a 99 Grand Voyager expresso.
    My hubby replaced the radiator and since then the radiator fan hasn't come on.
    He rigged it up someway but we now have to pop the hood and connect it to the battery for the fan to come on each time and take it off.... he says he can purchase a switch for 3 bucks and install it in the car so we can turn it on & off inside but that can't be the only way. Any ideas on what may be wrong and what we need to do to fix it? :confuse:
    If the fan was broken why would it work w. a direct connect to the battery?
    I might case it's helpful... directly after changing the radiator, the hose going from the tranny to the radiator burst, we lost all of our fluid and thought the tranny had blown. :sick: Still dont know why but since then I found out we were using the WRONG fluid (dextron or something) so I bought some ATF+4 and found a new cooler line and problem solved for under 50 bucks...PLUS the tranny no longer has the slight slip that it had before around 35mph (due to incorrect fluid, I bet)
  • tatalesuatatalesua Posts: 1
    I am a single mom and have put some money into my 1997 Dodge Caravan here lately and am still having problems. I am wondering if my thermostat is bad as the van has a tendency to overheat when going small distances and once in a while on 20-30 mile distances. Also I just had to put a new battery in and every time I get in my van you have to go 7 - 10 miles for the gauges to reset. What's up and can anyone please, please help me. I try not to beg but I am giving up at this point. I put in my own battery and my own auto shut off relay switch as my fans would not shut off when the van was not running and no keys in the van.
  • hdbrg1hdbrg1 Posts: 3
    2000 AWD sport. My temp gauge is at half way just idling. The thermostat is new, and I fear I will need to replace the radiator. It looks corroded and rusty at the ends. Are there any alternatives?? The car is on its last legs(140k) and I hate to put toooo much money into it. I pull a Coleman pop-up with it, and wonder if I shouldn't. Any thoughts??
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Is that not where it is supposed to be? The temperature gauges on my Subarus always point mid-way between L and H when fully warm, as does my 1998 GC. None of them move higher than that (unless there is a problem!).

    Where did yours normally top out when warmed up?
  • hdbrg1hdbrg1 Posts: 3
    My gauge normally ran between 1/4 and a 1/2. I noticed a couple weeks ago that it was running at half way, and a problem I do believe I have. Not sure how far I can drive safely. I live in Germany and there's not a whole lot of Chrysler dealers around. And if I drive to Italy or France I'm really hurting if it breaks down. Guess it's time for a new van.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Well, start with flushing the radiator with a good solvent to clear any blockages and see where that gets you. If the van is running too warm, you would probably notice some significant variations (drop) in the temperature gauge when you are running at high speed and low rpm (such as descending a long hill).

    The bottom line, though, is that if you cannot feel at ease when driving it and do not want to fix it, then it is likely time to move on to something else. :(
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    Does it over heat in cooler temps.?

    1) Check the fuses for the cooling fans.

    2) When you see the temperature gauge going up to hot. Pull over, open the hood and see if the cooling fan is going. (If not, it might be the coolant temp. sensor.)

    3) With the van running in Park, at idle speed, turn on the AC and see if the cooling fans are running. (Both fans should run all the time when using the AC.)

    4) Make sure there is nothing blocking the flow of air through the cooling coils in the radiator. Sometimes you might have to run the garden hose over the cooling coils to rinse away all dirt and lent build up.

    5) You can check the top radiator hose when the van is cold, to see if the thermostat is opening up and not stock closed. When you first start the van, let it run in Park at idle. As you see the temp. gauge going up, feel the top radiator hose to see if it is getting warm/hot. If it is still cold, then the thermostat has not opened yet to allow the coolant to flow thru the radiator to be cooled. If you see the temp. gauge going past the halfway point and the top hose is still on the cool side, it might be the thermostat :shades:
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Caravan, the blower switch only works on high. How hard is it to fix myself?? Thanks for any help.. Bill
  • pmarypmary Posts: 14
    You may have a short in the primary power wire from the relay to the cooling fan motor. A multi-tester in the continuity setting would confirm if theres a break in the line. An akward visual inspection from underneath the vehicle may also spot it. If so,cut the bad piece out and splice in an equal gauge of wire to graft it in to position. Ideally, copper wire could be soldered with rubber heat shrink tubing placed around it to seal it.
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