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Toyota Land Cruiser

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  • e9999e9999 Posts: 18
    Hi Dick:
    I traced the electric brake wiring from the trailer socket up to the left hand side kickpanel, and looked under the dash but can't see this controller connector. It's not on top of the steering column, is it? What's it look like?
    I guess I have to remove the lower plastic cover above the pedals and under the steering column to get to this heater duct and the connector? (if so, how do I remove that cover besides taking off the screw on the left and pulling?)
    Is that some sort of standard connector? I can't find anybody carrying a pigtail to plug in there (including the Toy people).
    Sheesh, that's not the best location, Toyota!
    thanks
    Eric
  • scifiscifi Posts: 54
    Actually, steelcruiser's stats are probably right:

    The Kelvin (K) rating on these bulbs has nothing to do with actual operating temperatures. It also is not a rating for how bright the output should or would be. Kelvin (K) is a basic unit of thermodynamic temperature (colour temperature) used to measure the whiteness of the light output. The higher the number is the whiter the light is. The only factor regarding operating temperatures has to do with the rated wattage of the bulbs.

    Think of the colour rating scale as a rainbow instead. A standard incandescent bulb in the traditional shape that is common to the old style reading and coffee table lamps is rated at about 2400K to 2600K. A standard halogen headlamp bulb is rated at about 3000K to 3200K. Early generation HID systems where rated at about 4300K to 4500K and current generation HID systems are rated at about 4000K to 4250K. Just as a reference point, sun light at high noon on a clear day is rated at about 5000K to 5500K depending on the season, level of pollution in the air and your location on the planet. A cloudy day at high noon can be rated at about 6000K to 7200K.

    The red side of an incandescent bulb rated at 2400K to 2600K. As you move through the spectrum you will go through orange, yellow, white and then start to go into the blue and finally ultra violet. As the human eye sees light we all note that blue is actually the hardest to see with. This of course is due to the fact that blue light has the shortest wave length and is not recommended for good vision. Hence the reason that most current generation of HID systems have gone to a lower Kelvin rating. Rainy weather is the worst to be using bluish light in because the wet surfaces actually absorb the blue light and give you little return of information on what is actually there, sight wise.

    The other factor into why something is brighter is a simple one, output wattage or intensity. Just because the sun is the brightest thing around doesn't mean it has the highest Kelvin rating. Cloudy days are dimmer than sunny days yet the cloudy days have a higher Kelvin rating.

    A higher Kelvin rating has nothing to do with brightness as far as headlamp bulbs are concerned. Wattage and design of the headlamp bulbs and housings have everything to do with brightness and output. Some people like blue light and are willing to pay extra money for extra blueness and less brightness---and thus the 6000K and up market.
  • Scifi- first, I'm glad you're happy with the PIAA bulbs. Second-thanks for that explanation of the Kelvin rating.
  • I will also be in the market for an LX ('96 or '97) with lockers option in a few months. Could you let us know how difficult was it to get one with lockers ? I am also interested in getting one with lockers. Also, how much did you pay for it ? Did you see a big variation in the market if you looked outside your town ? My experience has been that they are still priced high in Northern California and often times are priced much higher than blue book. Could you share your experience ?
  • intmed99intmed99 Posts: 485
    Well, i accidentally met an elderly couple outside of Lexus dealership. They asked questions about my current car (M3). Then, i noticed that they were driving the 1997 LX450. I inquired about it...turns out, they were looking to trade in the LX450 for some other SUVs (MDX, Escalade). I asked to take a peek inside...and then there it was...the locker dial!! Wow. The couple had no idea what it was for...so i assume it has not been used at all.

    Anyway, the dealerships were offering $14K for their LX450. I checked Edmunds and KBB and both priced a 1997 LX450 with all options and 100,000 miles on the odometer around $11K to $15K (trade-in value). I assume that this LX450 was very well-kept; thus, the dealerships was offering top dollar (a rare sight in my opinon).

    I offered to buy it from them. I gave them my business card and am waiting for their call.

    So, no, i have not actively looked around for LX450...this one just fell onto my lap! Fate?? There was another LX450 on the Lexus dealership lot...and it did not have the lockers...priced around $18K with 88,000 miles on odometer.

    BTW, i live in Texas.
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    #Any 03 or 04 LC owners out there who can tell me if the "Booming Bass" sound with the engine running still exists as a problem? This was the subject of many earlier posts on this board (starting with page 1) and seemed to affect many....some took it to arbitration with Toyota. It was attributed to the stock subwoofer and the impossibility of independently changing its settings.

    Does your stereo sound this way or is it a little piece of heaven, analagous to the place where we all hope to end up after we die and find out if there is a god or if this whole thing was one big joke...on us. Does your stereo suck owing to this bass boom? Is your life meaningless? Deep in the earth I rested now and cool is its hand upon the brow and soft its breast beneath the head of one who is so gladly dead...because the JBL stereo in his Landcruiser has a problem with booming bass that hasn't been fixed by Toyota and JBL. Is this a continuing problem...I beseech you '03 and '04 Landcruiser owners to respond to this plantive wail...
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    I would bet that the lockers are detroit style because they have motors and other similar components. before you test drive the car look under the hood the engine will have some dirt on it. If it is sparkling clean then the seller might be trying to hide somthing from you like manifold leaks and gasket leaks, check the vital fluids and see if they have been changed regularly, and look at the belt see if it is worn or new if it is new they might have a tension problems but it is unlikley ask them if they have turned their lockers on on the pavememnt to see what they were (since they had no clue what they were there for they might have toyed with it to see what it did). then test the 4WD system take it to a off-road place where you know that wheels will slip and lock up. DO NOT lock your vehicle on pavement, this will do severe damage if it is driven like this. When you are off road and lock the lockers the lights should come on the dAsh - DIFF LOCK for the center locker DIFF LOCK for the rear (in red) and the same for the front. If they blink they are trying to lock but have not fully locked yet. If one light continues to blink drive the car in a circle and see if that locks it. if it does not then it may be a sign of a "sticky motor" which means that ths truck's locking system has not been cared for or has not been used alot. This is a times taking fix but it can be done. Once you are locked drive off road and try to make a few wheels slip over slippery areas, dont get it stuck. you dont need to do this in deep muddy areas or other truck swallowing places. listen for sounds that are out of the ordinary grindings, screeching ect whining will happen because the diffs are locked. Enjoy
  • I have a 2000 TLC with 34k miles on. It has never been off road on a serious basis, has never towed anything and is used by my wife a "bad weather driver" as an alternative to her 2002 BMW 330iC.

    Had Goodyear Svc center perform the 30K mile maint (approx $500)just this past Friday.

    This morning (Monday) was rather cold - it said 10 degrees on the dash outdoor temp. gauge. I was going to warm it up for her - when I started it, I noted that the check engine light and the VSC went on and stayed on. Turned it off and started it a number of times, let it warm up, turned it off and restarted it - to no avail! The friggen lights stayed on all the way to the GoodYear location - approx 15 miles. Let them look at it - they ran the computer diagnostics and could not determine what the issue was other than there was some sort of sensor fault - they subsequently went back and re-set the system and drove the thing on and off during the day - the damn lights never reappeared! I also have a similar issue a few months ago with the A/T warning light. Have anyone any idea was to what is going on?

    Many Thanks
  • intmed99, no, these dealers were not offering the elderly couple a good deal. A new car dealer has a tremendous amount of margin to play with on a luxury SUV. Navigator dealers will discount a new Nav 10K off the MSRP before the first boat shoe hits his lot. So, using the above example, offerring someone 14K for their LX450 is offerring them just 4K. It all goes to "are you buying or selling?".
  • 53k for a loaded 04 land cruiser. in nyc are. good price or can i do better?
  • kjack100kjack100 Posts: 133
    Or is this scheduled for '06? I have scoured the internet, the future vehicles site here, etc. I am finding the same old bits and pieces about an FJ40 type redesign and the LX470 to be based on the Sequoia platform. Both old rumors.
  • I also have tremendous interest in finding more about the redesign. Based on feedback most folks have received from Toyota folks at various auto shows around the nation, we have heard that they plan to continue the LC platform in addition to the LX platform under the Lexus badge as LC logo is too important for toyota to pass up on. SO there certainly should be a new model coming. The FJ rugged body truck (as in going back to the roots dogma) on Toyota usa's web site for several months is just one likely scenario.

    Anyone else has more info on this ??
  • rleongrleong Posts: 41
    I found a useful web site about tire chains laws in different states.

    tirechains.com
  • The painted finish on my plastic "hub caps" has been damaged due to wear & tear. Any suggestions on where I can go to get these items replaced? Can they be repainted?

    Please advise...
  • I owned a 2001 Landcruiser and now own a 2003. My 2001 Cruiser had the booming bass problem, but I never had it fixed.

    The 2003 does not have that problem. The stereo is fantastic.
  • Thanks TonyG.

    I plan to get one as soon as one arrives in my area, but those earlier complaints worried me.
  • vainvain Posts: 4
    Does anyone know if the 2000 LC has an aux input to the stereo? I would like to figure out a way to mount my mp3 player and am hoping there is a way to connect it directly to the stereo.

    thanks.
  • Is it an iPod?
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Belkin makes a really cool FM transmiter that plugs into any headphone jack and can transmit any FM band, in the case of an iPod the iTrip works like a charm, in short you select a staticy chanle on the stereo and tune the broadcaster to the station. These will run around 20-40 dollars and are great for everything, and alot cheaper and less of a hassle than worrying about geting a AUX input instaled if it does not have one. These products need to be played around with a little b=so that you can get the hang of them, dont give up on the first try. Hope this helps.
  • vainvain Posts: 4
    thanks for the feedback. yes, its an ipod. i have tried the FM transmitter and have not been satisfied so am looking for alternatives. currently using the old cassette adaptor. a lot of newer stereos have a aux jack built in for mp3 players, so i figured i would explore my options.
  • There is a product that interfaces directly with the stock wiring harness plug for the cd changer of cars (I think it has to be un-used by a cd changer, but I am not sure) that allows an ipod to charge and play directly and even be controlled to some extent by the stock head unit...as though it is the cd changer. I forget what it's called, but check out ipodlounge.com...they review it there and advertise it sometimes. It is car specific, so you have to check and see if they have a LC version.

    I didn't know stereos were coming through with aux jacks on front. Are you talking about stock systems or aftermarket that have these?
  • vainvain Posts: 4
    thanks! i will check out ipodlounge.com ... i have seen a lot of aftermarket stereos with the aux jack out front meant to support mp3 players. been doing some reading and my understanding is that they are beginning to show up in stock systems as well.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Until the redesign of the cruisers in 05 or later i would doubt that they will change there system. Its up to you im sure that there is a way that you can do it, but it might be more problems then its worth. you might also consider an aftermarket faceplate and changer, a car audio place may be able to leave your existing JBL speakers and replace the consoul. This would be costly but it would be the sure-fire way to do it.
  • I just put new REVO's on my 99LC and read that many of you LC owners run higher pressure in the rear, what is the reason for the uneven pressure? I would think that with the extra weight in the front you would need additional pressure... Clue me in, and what pressures do you like to run in the city? thanks.
  • oldmanoldman Posts: 35
    My 2 cents bryan28, front tires at any particular pressure will wear the tread edges more than center tread from cornering loads, right? And the rears wear the central tread more than edges, absent cornering loads, right? If this is true, it makes sense to inflate rears above fronts to even out the edge vs central tread pattern. I have found this works pretty well, but might not be essential.
    On cold days, say 20F or colder, how many LC drivers (4.7L)get a fairly loud gear whine from the tranny area until the drivetrain warms up? Sounds sorta like planetary gears meshing. Is this a bad sign of wear? My 1997 4Runner never did this but was not the same system of course.
  • oldman, If you increase the pressure you increase the center wear, if you decrease the pressure you increase the edge wear, therefore you will compound the problem by having more pressure in the rear and less in the front.

    I put 285.75.16 on my 99LC and I get a slight wobble in the steering wheel at +/-65mph, I had the shop reballance the wheels and it improved but is still there. Should I have them do it a third time or is it partially due to the larger tire, the wobble goes away at 75mph.
    Bryan
  • After a blowout while travelling out of state my wife ended being pursuaded to get a whole new set of tires (the others I guess were worn) from a tire shop - Bridgestone "Dueler"s. Is this tire any good - I have read of problems/recalls with some Firestone/Bridgestone tires.
  • My research on tirerack.com showed the Bridgestone Dueler Revo to be the highest rated off road/AT tire on the tirerack list. There are several grades of Duelers you should look at the list yourself. Allot depends on what you will do on your tires....
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/orat.jsp
    Bryan
  • Bryan 28. (Stand by for lack of technical term here). FWIW, I've used America's Tire for umpteen years and recently found out that the larger tires balance better if the "center cone" used to mount the tire to the balance machine is reversed. The America's Tire Shop(s) I've used have the "upright" type spinners v. the horizontal type.

    I had the "wobbles" on my '02 (my first IFS LC) and got a hold of a good balancer that passed on the "cone" info. He balanced them (BFG 285s) with about half the weight that was on them at first and I had them re-balanced after I got back from my cross country drive this past fall using the same method. Less weight and no wobble.

    Never had any wobbles on my solid axle LCs. I'm sure one of the "engineer" types will be able to provide a more comprehensive and thorough explanation than I can =) (Idaho Doug?)

    How's your alignment?

    As to tire pressures--I've run 35 f 38 r for quite a few years on my 285/75/16 BFGs and coupled with rotations every 3K miles, I consistently get in excess of 60K tread life.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,758
    2 of the 4 tire places that I do business with use the Hunter 9700. It is both seriously accurate and seriously fast and the go back rate (error rate) is very very low.
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