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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • There was a good article regarding extended warranties today in USA Today. It was in the article about insurance fraud. I don't think I would have anything to do with one that wasn't sponsored by Toyota. I'm debating on getting one for my 04 4Runner, that so far has been stone reliable, which makes me think why do I need one?
    Congrats on your LC - I've always wanted one, but couldn't justify the price.
    Cheers
    Pat
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, just arrived in New MexicoPosts: 40,540
    This one turned up in my news alerts today, but I don't see the USA Today one:

    An extended warranty may be a good deal (Detroit News)

    The article is subtitled:

    "On the other hand, you could be throwing away your money due to better product reliability."

    I always did like subtitles :-)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
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  • Congratulations. I too have an 05 and love it. Funny but my first Toyota was also a 73 Celica. It was an ST model with a 93 hp engine (18RC) that was a pleasure to work on. That was my solitary vehicle from 1975 when I bought it used for 2700 dollars until I traded in in 1990 on an Acura Legend. I wish I had kept it...you just don't see those around.

    You got it at a good price. The extended warranty is always a tough decision when you are buying something so reliable.
  • Steve: I think it was in the Money Section, having to do with AIG (the Ins Co.)
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, just arrived in New MexicoPosts: 40,540
    Heh, you were supposed to find the link for me :-)

    Here it is:

    USA Today

    AIG is my car insurance carrier, fwiw.

    Steve, Host

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  • It looks like the risk of not actually being paid for a claim on a commercially underwritten policy as compared to a manufacturers policy is a lot greater.

    Below is an example (not auto!) of how insurance companies weedle out of claims!

    Dahlin case marks landmark ruling
     
    Dahlin was a regular international for Sweden
    Lawyers representing Blackburn Rovers have won a preliminary issue over the case of former striker Martin Dahlin.
    Dahlin's Rovers' career was ended by a prolapsed disc in his back in 1997 and Blackburn are looking for a £4m-plus payout from the player's insurers.

    Laytons Solicitors have won a ruling from judge Justice Moore-Bick that the injury was not just normal wear and tear but was "abnormal degeneration."

    Former Sweden international Dahlin's case will be heard next April.

    Daniel Izza, a partner with Laytons, says the degeneration issue is vitally important to clubs and their players.

    "For the past 10 years the clubs that thought they had a claim have been warned off as a result of insurers relying on a very wide interpretation of the clause," Izza told BBC Sport.

    "It does give clubs the opportunity of considering claiming from the past six years when similar claims in the past might have been rejected by the insurance companies.

     
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, just arrived in New MexicoPosts: 40,540
    It looks like the risk of not actually being paid for a claim on a commercially underwritten policy as compared to a manufacturers policy is a lot greater.

    The Warranty Gold contract holders with bankruptcy claims would likely agree with that!

    Steve, Host

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  • I believe the extended warranty and can be written anytime up until the manufacturer's warranty expires. So what's the hurry? If the truck seems solid at 30,000 miles, roll the dice. If the truck has had issues and you have concerns, then get an extended warranty.
  • I test drove both the LC and the GX 470 yesterday. In terms of a quieter, smoother ride, I think the LC had it over the GX( I tested the LX 470 too - it was head and shoulders above both of them, but so was the price!). The GX was more athletic, but I felt more of the bumps in the road, as well as some shimmying and body lean on turns. The GX had more luxurious leather seats, fit and finish and a great sound system. In terms of size, the Land Cruiser was more generous with space for passengers as well as cargo. The warranty and loaner availability were superior at Lexus. It is a tough call for us, since the size of the LC is ideal for us, but I hate to be buying at the end of a model's life span. In fact, the Toyota sales manager told me that 2005 is the last year for the Land Cruiser - that they were being discontinued. The Lexus manager said that's not true - he went on to tell us that Lexus thought of changing the LX 470 over to the Sequoia frame, but that buyers in the Northeast think that's too big for their garages and parking garages. He thought LX and Land Cruiser, which he states will NOT be discontinued, grows by about 3 inches in length next year. From what I have been reading, I don't think either of them know what's going on.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    I can tell you with 100% certainty that the Landcruiser will Not be discontinued. The name holds too mutch prestige for it to be dropped. Toyota has made a online profile showcasing the LC... they havent done that for other cars, so expect to see the LC live for as long as the toyota name lives... That sales man was probably trying to make you think that so that you would be more inclined to buy the car. either way the LC is a killer choice. Motor Trend reported that the LC will be remodled in 2006. IMO motor trend is a pretty reliable source when it comes to cars. So its not likly that Toyota will kill its truck that is known throughout most of the world as an off roading king.
  • Well, its been about a week and a half since we got our new LC and I have figured out one thing: My wife will give it up when I pry the steering wheel out of her cold, dead hands!

    She loves the navigation device and has already used it several times to find things - never mind that she has lived in this town her whole life.

    OK, I really don't want to get anything started here but should I get the SIMONIZ? I said yes to the dealer and they want me to schedule it, but I'm not sure if I want it now. The two reasons I'm considering it are that the car is black and has a very light color ivory interior and I also have young children.
    I've read on other discussion boards that it's not worth what they charge, but I haven't heard of any good alternatives... shouldn't I just have them do it and be done?
  • I started to get violent shaking in my 96 tlc at 45 mph. Mechanic said only one thing could cause it, the steering damper. Sure enough, he removed it and said it was sticking. It is an inexpensive part, ($31) and very easy to install. Maybe this might help
  • I'm a tax code Section 179 buyer and need to get in under the wire by 1 Jan. To date I've looked at '02 BMWs as CPO units with extended warrantys (my thinking is all Ultimate Driving Machines should have a factory warranty). Used X5s are not cheap. An '02 CPO will cost you about 35-36K after all the pushing and shoving. This IMHO not much of a discount from a new one.

    As a result of thinkiing I was paying a lot for a 40K mile car with a fancy name, I've looked at '03 Denalis. ('03 is the sweet spot for Denalis due to it being the first year with 3 channel stability control and later decontenting). Used '03 Denalis are a bit less money than the '02 X5, have fewer miles , seem less problematic, but are less fun to drive and own.

    I'm in a quandry: I don't want to spend 48K plus for a new X5 or Cayenne, yet don't think that you save much on a used X5 CPO (there are no used V6 Cayennes out there yet). It is well known that the Certification process costs the BMW Center $1200 plus whatever parts and labor they put into it. The dealer seems to get an easy 4K over a non CPO car. Should I just buy a non CPO unit and hold my breath?

    What can I get for the mid 30's in a LC? What year should I avoid? How would you compare the cost/value equation of a used X5 vs. a LC? The extra room would be useful but $1200 starter motors (how much would one be for a Denali, $55 at NAPA?) are a major turn off.
  • Gee, you must be looking at a different section of the tax code than I am. Vehicles with a GVW greater than 6000 pounds qualify and some of the costs are deductible according to what % of use is for business.

    Have you ever been on a job site and seen guys with pickups and SUVs with stuff in the back? I assure you that they would not want to be called a derogatory name just because the IRS feels that investment in such a vehicle helps get the job done.
  • ddw78ddw78 Posts: 16
    Hi People,

    Since I last posted about my undercarriage rattle back in July, I finally have it resolved (after 6 trips to the dealer, at 106,000 miles.)

    It was not the heat shields... they (dealer) allegedly replaced two sets per the techical service bulletin.

    They also fiddled around with some bolts and hangers, then replaced one, then another catalytic converter.

    It was finally fixed when they replaced the passenger side cat-con. The claim was that it was an internal rattle in the cat-con. I think it was a broken exhaust stud that got replaced when they finally did the last cat-con, but who really knows? The vehicle is silent as a tomb under acceleration now, and Toyota picked up about $3,200 worth of exhaust pipe, cat-cons, labor, etc, under the federal emissions warranty, so I am reasonably happy (other than the week of my life spent in and out of the dealership debating with the service writer about how it was STILL NOT FIXED in iterations 1-5.

    Nothing else to complain about... What a truck; 106,000 miles and it still drives, rides, and sounds better than any thing new that I've been in lately.

    Cheers,

    DDW78
  • ddw78ddw78 Posts: 16
    For what it's worth, I have a set of the Revo AT's on my '98 LC. I have had them on for about 40,000 miles, and am impressed. I drive at high-speed through the desert in CA, then spend weekends in the mountains with lots of snow and 13% (really) grades.

    The AT's are pretty quiet, and were a major traction upgrade from the Bridgestone Dueller HS tires I pulled off. I still need chains on the ice on the steep stuff, but I seem to be able to drive through 12" deep snow on the moderate grades like it wasn't there.

    I am considering more aggressive snow tires, but will hate to give up the nice quiet ride on the other 98% of my driving. Have gotten pretty good at getting chains on and off.

    Cheers,

    DDW78
  • I was torn on getting dedicated winter tires vs. a more agressive AT (which includes the REVO). In the end, decided for the dedicated. Figure I can run the AT's down to the tread bars in the summer (caution in heavy rain of course) and as I plan to have this LC until it turns to dust (at 2000 w/ 45K, should be a while yet) it is worth getting a second set of rims ($250 delivered on ebay). I live in NE and we get lots of ice so that is what really pushed my decision over the edge, nothing like real ice tires on ice. Ordered up a set of Blizzak DMZ3 275/70 16's. I'll post what I think of them after some miles.

    BTW 13% is impressive.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Honestly ive never gotten too stuck with my stocks... but then again i didnt have those for more than one winter... I have to say the A/Ts are traction getter on snow but are noisy on concrete, and well almost anything even studs can be quiet on asphalt. The thing about A/ts is i have noticed that alot have flexible sidewals, which helps when tyre pressure is lowered but when going into turns on a dry road you can some times get a understeer starting because the tyre is rolling. If extream rolling occours you can cause a blow out or pull the tyre off its bead. (but then again you shouldnt run A/ts with out Bead locks IMO) Also A/T will lower gass milage, lager diamater (if you go with it) will do it too.
    -mike
  • wu8wu8 Posts: 6
    Does anyone know what could be causing a whining noise from the passenger side wheel. Very faint and only happnes when it's cold out. Again, it's very faint to the point that if you had the radio on low, you probably would not notice.
  • After damaging my front end for the second time I finally put an Australian ARB on my Fj80 to replace the fragile "assembly" of expensive flimsy plastic parts which masquerades as the LC Front "Bumper". The ARB gets a lot of "Wows" and it also saved me around $3,000.
    Its too bad I didnt put on one of these on the first time my front end was damaged. I assure you that with this baby mounted there would never have been a second time.
  • I've had a FJ80 for about 6 months... wife took the 99. I love it as is but now am ready to get off road a bit more. Looking to make a few mods.

    The ARB... what did that run you and did you install yourself? Is it something that you can attach a winch to later?

    For offroad, what would be the first mods to make. I'll be taking a step at a time and want to prioritize.

    Thanks as always for the excellent advice!
  • http://store1.yimg.com/I/cruiserconnection_1810_1600303

    It cost $650 plus a few extra bucks at my indy to install during the regular service. It takes less than na hour to take of the plastic end pieces and bumper and then 1 hour to install and wire. All the bolt holes match 100% - its a good thing :)

    http://www.4by4connection.com/arbwinbarfor7.html

    I would have done it myself but my tool set has deteriorated over the years and it helps a LOT to have it up on a hoist.
    I will attach a winch in the spring to pull some tree stumps on my property. In the mean time I dont have to worry about hitting deer anymore!
  • You might want to take it out as is to get a "feel" for it in stock form. Usual upgrades are suspension and tires. Most common tire swap is to 285/75/16 (approx 31") OME makes shocks and springs for LCs--and they're pretty widely used by lots of LC owners. You can go with either a "low lift" option of approx 2" or, the 3" lift option. They also make "J" springs which provide even more lift, but some other mods will need to be made as well.

    You may want to check out man-a-fre.com or sleeoffroad for more details.

    I had the 3" lift on my 80 and was very happy with it, though I would recommend the castor correction kit with that lift. Breather hoses and brake lines need to be checked and possibly extended with the higher lifts--and the brake proportioning valve usually needs adjusting after you install any lift on the 80.

    I think you'd be very happy with the "low lift" OME components

    HTH
  • I can see folks who are big on running their rigs offroad to push for a couple inch lift but is there any other reason for doing so ? Does it provide any other benefit I don't see ?

    Just curious.
  • All, thanks for the advice! I like the look of the ARB bumper and may have to bite that first... mine is dented anyway.

    For off-road, I've done some real basic stuff and have been impressed. I actually think I am dramatically underestimating what this beast will do. Never been in a situation where I felt even slightly challenged. I have looked into some of the off-road clubs and will be going to a meeting in a few weeks. I'm sure they'll be able to "challenge" me. Looking forward to it and many years of playing in the mud!

    Thanks again and I'll let you know how it all progresses.
  • ternesternes Posts: 13
    I have an '04 LC with 12,000 miles. At the 10,000 mile service I had the dealer check for a very small brake fluid leak under the master cylinder area.
    The service adviser said I had a leak in the ABS pump and they would order one.
    Long story, but they had my unit a week as they didn't order all the parts or correct ones before starting the repair. They provided me a loaner at no cost to me including gas.
    This is where my problem started. My brake pedal goes down almost halfway before the brakes start to engage. You can pump the brake pedal 40+ times, as stated in the owners manual when adding brake fluid to the reservoir, and the brakes will engage higher on the pedal for awhile.
    Prior to this work being done my brakes always engaged at the very top of the pedal. I have driven three other LC's and all engage at the very top.
    Does this sound like air in the system?
    The service adviser says there is no adjustment for this and infers it is not a problem.

    Thanks
  • ternesternes Posts: 13
    I need to clarify something in my above post.
    The owner's manual states that you pump the brake pedal > 40 times with the ignition key turned off.
  • I know that sounds low, but would you pay 20k plus far a 01 LC with 117k miles? I know I would be hard put to. My 2cents. On the other hand I believe the dealer low balled him.

    simmikie
  • Not to be mean spirited, but let see if I read your post correctly. You wanted to get 27k for your 01 LC with 117k miles on it, and pay 30k for an 05 withprobably less than 10k miles. If the dealer gave you 27k for your 01, what should he sell it for and would you pay that amount. Man, are you an optimist!
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