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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • There is a product that interfaces directly with the stock wiring harness plug for the cd changer of cars (I think it has to be un-used by a cd changer, but I am not sure) that allows an ipod to charge and play directly and even be controlled to some extent by the stock head unit...as though it is the cd changer. I forget what it's called, but check out ipodlounge.com...they review it there and advertise it sometimes. It is car specific, so you have to check and see if they have a LC version.

    I didn't know stereos were coming through with aux jacks on front. Are you talking about stock systems or aftermarket that have these?
  • vainvain Posts: 4
    thanks! i will check out ipodlounge.com ... i have seen a lot of aftermarket stereos with the aux jack out front meant to support mp3 players. been doing some reading and my understanding is that they are beginning to show up in stock systems as well.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Until the redesign of the cruisers in 05 or later i would doubt that they will change there system. Its up to you im sure that there is a way that you can do it, but it might be more problems then its worth. you might also consider an aftermarket faceplate and changer, a car audio place may be able to leave your existing JBL speakers and replace the consoul. This would be costly but it would be the sure-fire way to do it.
  • I just put new REVO's on my 99LC and read that many of you LC owners run higher pressure in the rear, what is the reason for the uneven pressure? I would think that with the extra weight in the front you would need additional pressure... Clue me in, and what pressures do you like to run in the city? thanks.
  • oldmanoldman Posts: 35
    My 2 cents bryan28, front tires at any particular pressure will wear the tread edges more than center tread from cornering loads, right? And the rears wear the central tread more than edges, absent cornering loads, right? If this is true, it makes sense to inflate rears above fronts to even out the edge vs central tread pattern. I have found this works pretty well, but might not be essential.
    On cold days, say 20F or colder, how many LC drivers (4.7L)get a fairly loud gear whine from the tranny area until the drivetrain warms up? Sounds sorta like planetary gears meshing. Is this a bad sign of wear? My 1997 4Runner never did this but was not the same system of course.
  • oldman, If you increase the pressure you increase the center wear, if you decrease the pressure you increase the edge wear, therefore you will compound the problem by having more pressure in the rear and less in the front.

    I put 285.75.16 on my 99LC and I get a slight wobble in the steering wheel at +/-65mph, I had the shop reballance the wheels and it improved but is still there. Should I have them do it a third time or is it partially due to the larger tire, the wobble goes away at 75mph.
    Bryan
  • After a blowout while travelling out of state my wife ended being pursuaded to get a whole new set of tires (the others I guess were worn) from a tire shop - Bridgestone "Dueler"s. Is this tire any good - I have read of problems/recalls with some Firestone/Bridgestone tires.
  • My research on tirerack.com showed the Bridgestone Dueler Revo to be the highest rated off road/AT tire on the tirerack list. There are several grades of Duelers you should look at the list yourself. Allot depends on what you will do on your tires....
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/orat.jsp
    Bryan
  • Bryan 28. (Stand by for lack of technical term here). FWIW, I've used America's Tire for umpteen years and recently found out that the larger tires balance better if the "center cone" used to mount the tire to the balance machine is reversed. The America's Tire Shop(s) I've used have the "upright" type spinners v. the horizontal type.

    I had the "wobbles" on my '02 (my first IFS LC) and got a hold of a good balancer that passed on the "cone" info. He balanced them (BFG 285s) with about half the weight that was on them at first and I had them re-balanced after I got back from my cross country drive this past fall using the same method. Less weight and no wobble.

    Never had any wobbles on my solid axle LCs. I'm sure one of the "engineer" types will be able to provide a more comprehensive and thorough explanation than I can =) (Idaho Doug?)

    How's your alignment?

    As to tire pressures--I've run 35 f 38 r for quite a few years on my 285/75/16 BFGs and coupled with rotations every 3K miles, I consistently get in excess of 60K tread life.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,487
    2 of the 4 tire places that I do business with use the Hunter 9700. It is both seriously accurate and seriously fast and the go back rate (error rate) is very very low.
  • As an analytical sort, I need some help. I'm looking for a newer SUV and want to pick one up one or two years old for all the right reasons (lower sales tax, lower excise tax, lower depreciation, etc.) With that in mind I compared a bunch of SUVs around my target price of 35 to 40K. For a couple (Nav, Denali) of the vehicles I was interested in I could get an '03 for this money and for others (X5, and TLC) I would have to get an '02. No problem I thought. I would gladly "give up" a model year to get a TLC especially because now as a TWO year old vehicle I would have even lower costs per mile.

    I compared Edmunds TCO data for a 2002 TLC. With a cost basis of 41K, they determine that it will cost 67 cents per mile for the next five years. An '02 X5 with a basis of 34K will cost 66 cents per mile. An '03 Nav with a basis of 37K will cost 64 cents per mile and an '03 Denali will cost 37K to get into and 65 cents a mile for five years.

    But wait, there's more: an '02 Sequoia will cost 36K to get into and run 63 cents per mile.

    I'm surprised that the '02 TLC with its minimal depreciation and with the first two year's depreication already taken, would cost so much per mile.
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    I have about 7,000 miles on my 285/75/16 Revo's (99 LC), and after the first rotation at 5,000 miles, developed a shake or wobble in the front end also. It too shows up at around 60-65 mph. I had them re-balanced once , and the problem is still there. I thought I wight have a bent rim or something. No apparent problems with the alignment.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,487
    If you are so inclined, a pesky problem such as yours is one of the hidden strengths of the Hunter 9700. Since it similates load on a tire, it can detect the variations under load that a normal balance machine may not detect without load. Given that the alignment is in specifications for that tire and wheel combination it might be a defective tire or a rotor is out of balance.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    Those .$$ per mile dont seem accurate. First of all it is not the only factor in the cost of a vehicle, yes it plays a very large role in the wear and tear and thus the price. But there are other options, features, and reliability at hand. From my experiences with land cruiser and BMW's I would say that my land cruiser hold its value as well as my BMW's have, for example I had a 535 i in 1988 for about 40'grand when i went to sell it 12 years later with a little over 100,000 miles i got about 7,000 dealer trade in. If i were to sell my 94' LC which i got for i think around 45,000 or 50,000 i could get just about the same dealer trade in, 7,525 or private party around 11,000 As long as any quality higher end car (like the land cruiser) is taken care of (like regular service oil change ect) and if it is not in any major or many minor fender benders then it will hold its value. Also the car has to be clean, and work properly with all components. From experience, Land Cruisers stay in style longer that chevys or fords or many American cars, they have solid lines that you can see incorporated in the new 100 series that you can see from the FJ60's (1960 models) These are also very reliable, in my opinion more reliable that many American cars. And I know for a fact that Navs have very poor crash test ratings, if that makes any diff. Sorry if this offends anyone but Im not to keen on American cars. And keep in mind that were talking pennys on the dollar, if your going to lay down 41K for a 02 LC then 67cents to a mile if thats right should not be a big concern I mean think about it the diff between that one and the lesser one is what 3 cents? 3 cents.....
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 14,487
    I sold a 1987 TLC gotten for 16k new (latter part of 1986 and sold it 14 years later for 9k. During that time I put in app 250k miles and had 2.2k in unscheduled repairs (dealer prices) So depreciation was 3.125% per year or 500 per year or 41.67 per month. :)

    I didn't do as well with a 7 year old 1997 TLC as depreciation was 4.6332% per year :( :)
  • jocigarjocigar Posts: 26
    I have a 91 landcrusier that has cloth seats. The drivers side has developed a wear/hole.

    Since the truck is still like new with 146k, I would like to fix it, but the dealer wants $330 for the lower half only. It seams like a crazie price for a cover that is cloth with vinyl sides.

    Any links or suggestion are appreciated.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    It might be worth trying to get seat from a junk yard LC (from a crashed newer LC model maybe) or a couple of leather seats from a similar source. The cloths on my '91 are OK but I have been considering an upgrade to leather anyway.
    Another thought - forget a dealer and just go to a regular seat upholster, it HAS to be cheaper than $330 for just a seat bottom.
    Or, check out this website:
    http://www.rufftuff.com/toyota_landcruiser.asp

    Or: http://www.greatcovers.net/shop/categories.asp?category_id=4271&a- mp;a- mp;a- mp;a- mp;make=4019&model=4717

    Or, get Ricaro seats which fit the Fj80 according to an Australian owner "A used Recaro is better than a new aftermarket
    seat- better built, quality materials make the difference":

    http://www.2002parts.com/html/recaro_front_seats.html
  • Performance Products has some replacement covers too.
  • jocigarjocigar Posts: 26
    Thanks for the replies.

    I would like to keep it original if possible. Are there any discount OEM suppliers on the web?

    I also need center hub covers and the plastic side bumbers.

    On a side note, my oxigen sensor came off the exhaust pipe along with the mounting base... rusted off I guess. Anyway, they want 1,300 each for the two exhaust pipes that come off the manifolds and end with cad. converter... ouch! I need to find a welder or some other solution.

    Not complaining about reliabilty since I have put under 1,000 in parts for 10 years.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    Having clocked around 110,000 on my Fj80 I am some what anxious about such a large expenditure for an exhaust/cat converter assembly - I wonder how many miles my LC can clock before this replacement problem rears its ugly head. I shall be interested in all responses to jocigars question. My feeling is that an indy can come up with a cheaper alternative of some sort.
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